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Carbon Monoxide Detector


DanD

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After reading about the firefighter that died from CO poisoning while ice fishing.

 

http://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/field-notes/minnesota-firefighter-dies-from-carbon-monoxide-poisoning-while-ice-fishing

 

I've been looking for a CO detector for the fish hut, that I just built. The ones I've found at CTC or Home Depot are portable (Battery operated) but they're not meant to be used or left in the cold. Operating temperature range is 40° to 100° F. not much good for a fish hut?

Does anyone know of a unit that won't break the bank and still be accurate for what I want it for?

 

Dan.

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If the heating appliance (propane) is not vented to the outside, the CO detector will be going off all the time.

As for operating temperature, you can have a portable CO detector and only use it while you are in the hut, 40F is + 4C,

That's if your hut gets to that temp

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Operating temperature range is 40° to 100° F. not much good for a fish hut?

Does anyone know of a unit that won't break the bank and still be accurate for what I want it for?

 

Dan.

 

The way I read that sentense is that it will only give accurate readings if the inside temperature is between 40 to 100 F. If that is the case then you should be fine. Your hut would most likely be in that range when you are fishing with the heater on. If it was 30 below the night before you arrive you may not get accurate reading for the first few minutes. But it shouldn't take a heater too long to get the temperate over 40 F.

 

If the cold actually damages the unit; that is a different story. But I don't think that is the case. If it was, they would need to ship them in temperature controlled trucks.

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A CO detector will only give you readings on post combustion emissions. If there is a propane leak it won't alarm. Just because a detector alarms doesn't mean you are in immediate danger. Most are set to alarm at 50PPM, parts per million. The MOL says a worker can safely work in 50PPM for 4 hours. 400PPM for periods of 15 minutes. 50 PPM and I'm out of there. The problem with CO alarms are the people that ignore them because an alarm may sound at only 50 PPM and seconds latter the atmosphere can skyrocket to deadly levels. The most hazardous conditions in a hut are the huts that burn wood and are air tight, then you are looking at an oxygen deficiency in that hut, even though the flame may die at less than 17% oxygen it may be too late. Any heater should be vented to the outside. These Buddy Heaters and cook stoves in a tight insulated hut are very dangerous. The evil thing about CO exposure is once you might realize Highly unlikely)that you are being gassed it may be too late because no matter how hard you try the muscles and brain stop working and you can't walk. Learn the signs of CO poisoning.

 

Go to the Ont. Occupational H&S act for Mines and Mining plants to get the best skinny on exposure levels for CO.

 

I've been gassed, not a good experience.

Edited by Old Ironmaker
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I don't know, there's thousands of man hours spent in heated huts every year and very few incidents.

 

I would guess CO is only a concern if you plan on sleeping in your hut or if you plan on getting so loaded that you wouldn't notice the onset of poisoning.

 

I know of 2 guys that died from CO in a hut, they were sleeping over night in the hut and likely were really loaded.

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I don't know, there's thousands of man hours spent in heated huts every year and very few incidents.

 

I would guess CO is only a concern if you plan on sleeping in your hut or if you plan on getting so loaded that you wouldn't notice the onset of poisoning.

 

I know of 2 guys that died from CO in a hut, they were sleeping over night in the hut and likely were really loaded.

I know my heater shuts itself off.

 

That being said i only use it in pop ups.

 

For the shack its a fixed propane heater and exhaust.

 

Youde have to be insanely loaded not to know because it gets to +20 in about 20 minutes lol

 

Its like burning ash in a 12x10 hahaha

Edited by manitoubass2
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It just seems like a shame to build a well insulated, masterpiece like that, and then have to open a window.

 

How do these ice bungalow outfitters do it? You don't hear about problems with CO for them and there's likely lots of guys loaded.

Just leave a crack in it is all. Its plenty warm enough.

 

Im sure the hut rentals are just well ventilated. Really thats all thats needed.

 

No different then burning wood at the cabin really

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Thanks for all the replies people.

The heater/furnace I installed is a proper RV furnace. It takes air from the outside for combustion, it has a heat exchange box (lack of a better word) and a fan that recirculates the inside air. I took the furnace all apart before installing it, so I could inspect the heat exchanger for burn through or cracks and it all looks good. When the furnace is running the exhaust is clear, with no sooting on the exhaust port.

As for the heat produced, I set the thermostat at 80° closed the hut up and let it run. After 10 minutes the furnace shut off; I thought what the hell went wrong?

Nothing was wrong it was up to temp already.

I'm not anticipating a CO problem, just piece of mind knowing we're OK in there. So I'll do as some have suggested and it'll be part of the ritual to bring it with me every time we go out.

I'll keep it in the munchies bag; I would never forget that. LOL

 

Thanks again.

 

Dan.

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