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Bunk Carpet?


Tybo

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You probably could get away with regular indoor/outdoor; as long as it doesn't have a rubber backer and it was a tight weave.

Have a look at etrailer, they're running some specials on actual bunk carpeting.

 

http://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=Trailer+Bunk+Carpeting&furl=-pa-1&ymm=0

 

http://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/Fulton/FCR8012.html

 

I've order quite a bit of stuff from them; they usually ship USP, so there's no brokerage charge to get gooned by.

 

Dan.

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Carpet is old school, this is the way to go now, boat doesn't freeze on the trailer, wood doesn't rot as quick, and boat launches and loads easier.

Wish I had found this guy years ago.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-boat-parts-trailer-accessories/hamilton/boat-trailer-bunk-glides-made-in-ontario-20-foot-package/597028382?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

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Dave how's the paint doing on the hull where you load it?? Just curious if the weight of the boat on the UHWW is wearing it off.

 

I'm not sure plastic against paint is a great idea for my 3000 pounder, but sure have lots of it around if I decide to go that route.

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I got the 4' puck boards off of Fishfarner (thx again) & had enough to do 2 x 8' on the runners. On second thought, I wasn't comfortable with reduced friction the full length of the 8' runners when towing, braking or launching. So I decided to run 4' of board + 4' of carpet. I only need the 4' of board @ the front end of the runners when power loading the boat (21' Sylvan) anyways. The 4' of carpet gives added friction to help prevent the boat from sliding under tow, braking & launching.

I measured the depth of the puck board & the height of the carpet and calculated how much I would have to rip off the front 4' of runner to end up with carpet & board on equal plane. Here's a pic. The best I could get with the boat on the trailer.

 

image.jpg1_zps08hmuruk.jpg

 

If the winds back down tomorrow, I'll get another few pix.

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2, 10'x 2"x 6" boards, grey indoor/outdoor carpet,2 tubes of water proof glue. All for 58 bucks. can't beat that.

 

Paul,

I have 2 extra 4' sections of the puck board. There yours if you want them. Power loading is so much easier & safer :) My boat is a 21' Sylavn & I can power up with a lot less throttle & more control.

 

Dave how's the paint doing on the hull where you load it?? Just curious if the weight of the boat on the UHWW is wearing it off.

 

I'm not sure plastic against paint is a great idea for my 3000 pounder, but sure have lots of it around if I decide to go that route.

Wayne,

Here's a pik of the hull in line with puck board runners. Not a scratch :)

image.jpg1_zpsqdt0h8pw.jpg

Edited by pikeslayer
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Good question Wayne, I don't know about the paint being scratched, my Princecraft and Lund have no painted bottoms.

As per launching, DO NOT!!! unhook boat till you're near the water or at least transom touching the water :worthy: . I love it for power loading when you're by yourself :good: , I can put it to the winch :rolleyes: .

I have noticed my lund will move a little sideways if I turn a sharp corner, my Princraft had keels like Pikeslayers boat above, didn't move at all.

Once you get the hang of it, it's great.

Roller trailers have plastic rollers, guys have been load glass and tin boats for years. :dunno:

Why the Buck Board, it's 1/2 " so you can countersink the bolts, I use flat head beveled bolts with a locking nut, all Stainless.

My Princecraft trailer had 2X6 boards and my Lund has 2X4, Maybe because Lund bottoms are better :spam::w00t:

Pikeslayer has a good idea if you're worried about movement.

Edited by Fish Farmer
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Was thinking of using puck-board,Have a sheet in the garage for sliders on the porta-huts.

The thing is the trailer has 4 bunks and the inside ones ride on the leading edge of a power stake and the

rivets for this rides on the edge of the bunk.

So in time,loading and movement on the trailer will be very hard on the rivets and the edge of the power stake.

There is also about 50 rivets that sit on the bunks.

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