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I stopped in to see my local marine mechanic the other day and his compound was jammed packed with boats motors lined up for repair. He told me that the entire industry is swamped with repairs for 2 strokes around 10 years or older. Generally cylinder compression loss. They believe it is due to phase separation related to ethanol in older rigs. He suggested as someone here did that I only fuel up with 93 that is available from Shell and Esso. And be diligent using 2x4 or similar phase separation treatments.

 

A heads up.

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I think he may have meant 2+4 instead of 2x4.
2+4 is a name brand stabilizer from Bombardier. Originally from OMC.

This is a very good product and there are other good ones as well.

Just make sure to use any fuel you buy in a short period and you will not have any issues.

Anything that sits add stabilizers.
We have seen a lot of fuel related issues at our shop as well. But it has been going on now for several years.

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There are some gas stations that are ethanol free in my area. Other than them, its shell V-power that has no ethanol.

 

I run it in everything I own.

 

Way better mileage in my vehicle, and no issues with my 2 stroke engines.

 

S.

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wormdunker, on 21 Jul 2013 - 00:40, said:

Please explain 2x4 treatemnt?

Sorry 2+4, gas stabilizer to ensure phase separation isn't an issue with your fuel.

 

Lew,

 

He didn't mention 4 strokes other than always telling me to go into the showroom and buy one.

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Pre 2006 fuel lines are not ethanol resistance. They deteriorate from the inside. One of the signs is smelling gas fumes.

That's strange, why would my manual indicate that up to 10% ethanol use is allowed if the hoses are not ethanol resistant? Mines 17 years old with no sign of degradation.

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Fuel lines have degraded since the inside since the beginning of the combustion engine. Ive had them go in cars, I find the ethanol fuel is harder on the carbs than the lines, Forget stabil and all that crap. Start your motor , shut off fuel, and let run till it stalls. Then turn it over and spray fogging oil down the carb with the butterfly's open. ..works for all my motors. No issues. I do tear down the carbs on the sleds at the beginning of every winter as they are tuned on the ragged edge of lean. Snow blowers, weed eaters and chainsaws get put away dry and fogged and rarely have any issues.

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Storing things dry is never a good idea. I'd rather have them full, and seafoam added than stored dry any day.

 

I've honestly never had a fuel issue, other than a bad fuel line. I replaced the line last year, and it was original from '93, so it didn't owe me anything.

 

I've burned fuel that was almost a year old with no issues, so I'm not really sold on the whole fuel going bad theory.

 

 

I do, however, try to run ethanol free fuel all the time. The only time fuel with ethanol goes in my outboard is if I need gas, and have no other options, and I will only get what I will burn put in the tank.

 

I'm lucky to have a few local gas stations around me that are 100% ethanol free, so I use them always....or shell V-power when away from home.

 

S.

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One of the good things about living in the far North is they don't sell any fuels with ethanol in them up here. In the winter it gets too cold and the fact that ethanol absorbs water does not work well in a frozen environment. My buddies in Alaska tell me there's no ethanol in any of their fuels either.

Pretty sure Nunavut and the Yukon are the same. :)

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Thanx for clarifing that Ironmaker. I'm adamant about having my gas engines running properly, so when I see a new item, I want to investigate.

I NEVER run my equipment dry for off season storage!! I was advised by our local small engine mechanic that o rings, seals etc will dry & crack when dry. His advice is to have at least 1/2 tank of gas in your piece of equipmenmt before storage. Add the appropriate amount of gas stabilizer to the gas tank. Start the engine, let it run at 1/2 throttle for 2 -3 minutes to allow the "treated" gas to flow into all of the engine parts. Shut the engine down. Remove the spark plug(s), squirt 4 or 5 drops of oil (I use 10W30) into the cylinder(s), hold a rag over the cylinder, pull the cord a couple of times (this distributes the oil over the internal engine parts for lubrication during the storage period). At this point re install the plugs. NOTE - THIS IS WHEN I INSTALL NEW SPARK PLUGS!!! I own several pieces of gas equipment including ice auger, chainsaw, several outboards, weed eater, mower, leaf blower, pressure washer. This method WORKS regardless of manufacturer. I've done this method for over 20 years!! Hope this helps

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Well at 45 years old my Ariens snowblower gets put away dry every spring, bone dry carb and hose, it starts, on the first pull. Everything else gets put away dry in the off season, to each their own, Ice auger, 22years, chain saw 14, outboard, 17, does it seem to indicate a trend that works.

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" allow the "treated" gas to flow into all of the engine parts". If he was talking about a two stroke I would get a new mechanic. . Proper fogging oil will take care of your crank seals, bearings and cylinder walls. I have never seen a carb bowl gasket "dry up". Or a fuel pump diaphragm either in one off season. To each his own. Last thing I want is any fuel sitting in my carbs all off season. A four stroke.. I'm not sure i would want my injectors wet or not but I'm no four stroke guru, my forte is two strokes.

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