electric start 25hp 4stroke yahama

[sconceptor]

Just did the oil change, oil filter, gear oil, and prop grease on my 2002 25hp 4 stroke yammy. I didn't try to start it before doing this, but a few months ago I hit the electric start and there was enough juice to turn it over. Now when I hit the start, there's just a little buzzing snapping sound. Electric start is good, but I hate each year when the boat sits for a while. I hate marine batteries too, every other year I seem to be replace a battery or two.

 

I've got the c tech charger on the starting battery and the nautalis charger on my trolling motor batteries. Hopefully, the starter will charge and that's enough to turn it over. Last spring it was in the water, to find not enough juice to turn it over, so off to Crappy T, for a new battery. At least this year, the 1 year warrenty won't be up on the CT cranking battery.

 

I guess I should do more in the fall and put a trickle charge on the starting battery.

 

I can deal with the home computer crashing and screwing up, but I hate when my boat motor isn't good to go each spring. My old Johnson pull start was simple to get going each year....add gas, top up the oil, pull the cord 5 or 6 times.

 

Does a blown starter make any noise? Does the buzzing snapping sound, indicate the starter is good, just not enough cranking amps?

 

After this I get to figure out the boat lighting....fun fun.

[DRIFTER_016]

I pull my batteries each fall and bring them inside where they go on the charger to get fully topped up. I will pop them back on the charger every few months to fully charge them. You don't want to leave them outside over the winter if they are not fully charged or they will freeze and become useless.

If you take proper care of your batteries they will last for years.

If you ignore them and leave them discharged you will end up with short lived battereies that let you down. IMHO

[dhickey]

It always amazes me to se people not treat bateries properly when its so easy.

 

Inside during the winter and sitting on top of wood (I use 2x4s )not on concreete or any other stone.

A slow charge for a couple days before use and they should last.

I had one for my troling motor that lasted 8 yrs.

[Billy Bob]

Of course my winter doesn't get as cold as where you are but we still see temps below zero and in the single digits most of the winter.....with that said I haven't pulled boat batteries out of my boat in over 8 years since I put in a on-board charging system in my boat..(boat is kept in a unattached non heated garage)..takes care of the main starting battery and the trolling motor battery....with this on-board charging system my batteries last a LONG LONG time....the charger is plugged in ALL THE TIME the boat is not fishing, even when I'm on the water if all possible. I highly recommend this for any fishing boat. I never worry about my battery conditions anymore.

 

Bob

[craigdritchie]

I guess I should do more in the fall and put a trickle charge on the starting battery.

Problem solved.

[Fish4Eyes]

I was told by the guy who sold me my deep cycle interstate battery that Interstate recommends not bringing the battery inside over the winter. Charge it fully and leave it in the boat. I have followed this for 3 years now and the battery shows no signs of weakness. I also only run 1 battery for motor, trolling motor and fishfinder.

Edited May 19, 2011 by Fish4Eyes

[motion]

I pull my batteries each fall and bring them inside where they go on the charger to get fully topped up. I will pop them back on the charger every few months to fully charge them. You don't want to leave them outside over the winter if they are not fully charged or they will freeze and become useless.

If you take proper care of your batteries they will last for years.

If you ignore them and leave them discharged you will end up with short lived battereies that let you down. IMHO

 

 

X2 on the chanrging them fully in the fall only I dont put them back in the boat. A top up charge every couple of months on the batteries stored in my garage works wonders.

 

Just my $.02..........

[Fisherman]

Of course my winter doesn't get as cold as where you are but we still see temps below zero and in the single digits most of the winter.....with that said I haven't pulled boat batteries out of my boat in over 8 years since I put in a on-board charging system in my boat..(boat is kept in a unattached non heated garage)..takes care of the main starting battery and the trolling motor battery....with this on-board charging system my batteries last a LONG LONG time....the charger is plugged in ALL THE TIME the boat is not fishing, even when I'm on the water if all possible. I highly recommend this for any fishing boat. I never worry about my battery conditions anymore.

 

Bob

X2, there's a variety of full time battery maintainer chargers out there, they stay hooked up for the WHOLE time, no need to disconnect. As for putting batteries on concrete, it's bunko, get with the program. If you have to replace your batteries every year, I applaud you for propping up the battery industry. Some people don't learn. Batteries discharge more slowly at lower temps, leaving them in an unheated garage is acceptable, but leave them on the charger.

[lookinforwalleye]

Like everybody else said just charge them before storage and your good!

 

And please lets hear no more of the concrete floor thing!

[Billy Bob]

Like everybody else said just charge them before storage and your good!

 

And please lets hear no more of the concrete floor thing!

 

Yes, but I believe the best treatment is to keep them hooked up to a smart type charger all winter long for BEST results.

[aplumma]

Here is an article on the concrete myth

 

 

Fact or Fiction

 

Well, is it true? Will a battery be damaged or discharged by letting it sit on concrete? NO!

Why then do so many people believe that concrete is a battery enemy? Years ago, batteries could have been electrically discharged by sitting on a concrete floor. My dad, for instance, owned an automotive shop for many years. In fact, I grew up on a creeper. My dad reminded me time after time, "Set that battery on wood! I know batteries discharge on concrete because I’ve witnessed it!" And he was right at that time.

 

Historical Basis

 

You see, the myth that concrete drains batteries does have some historical basis. Many, many years ago, wooden battery cases encased a glass jar with the battery inside. Any moisture on the floor could cause the wood to swell and possibly fracture the glass, causing it to leak. Later came the introduction of the hard rubber cases, which were somewhat porous and had a high-carbon content. An electrical current could be conducted through this container if the moist concrete floor permitted the current to find an electrical ground. The wise advice of the old days to "keep batteries off concrete" has been passed down to us today, but it no longer applies because of the advanced technology of today’s batteries.

 

Today’s Technology

 

For more than a decade, automotive and commercial battery containers have been made of polypropylene, which is a highly insulative material. In fact, the Interstate Batteries poly material is at least five times more insulative than the old hard rubber. Also, tremendous technological improvements have been made in the seals around the posts and the vent systems, which have virtually eliminated electrolyte seepage and migration.

 

Battery Discharging

 

The fact is, all batteries self- discharge whether they’re sitting on the shelf or on concrete. This is why we regularly rotate your inventory. As the temperature increases, a battery’s self-discharge level also increases. Some lead acid batteries discharge 4% - 8% per month at a temperature of 80°F. The level of self-discharge is also contingent upon the type of lead plate alloy plus the age and cleanliness of the battery.

 

If the battery has a surface layer of acid or grime, which is electrically conductive, it self-discharges more rapidly. This surface layer may actually allow you to measure the DC voltage across the battery’s poly case (using a 10 meg-ohm digital voltmeter). For that reason, we recommend that you always keep batteries clean, whether they’re in storage or in a vehicle.

 

Grandfather Clause

 

You may now be thinking that you know more than your grandfather, who tells you that batteries stored on concrete will be damaged. Next time your grandfather says that, I recommend that you just say "Okay" and continue about your business. I’m a grand-father now, and I know that we like to have our way and we like to be right. If my grandson, for instance, tries to tell me that concrete won’t damage a battery, you know what I’ll say? I’ll say if you drop a battery on concrete, it will be damaged.

 

 

"Tech Talk" is a copyright of Interstate Battery System of America.

 

 

Art

[motion]

Thanks for posting that Art. I was about to place a similar link to bust that myth as well. I guess if enough people say it, then it must be true............

[Big Cliff]

Now that the battery myths have been cleared up, back to your original problem.

 

I suspect you have a bad connection either at the battery, solonid, or at the starter. (probably at the battery, the hissing and popping sound you are hearing is arcing)

 

Clean all the connections using a wire brush (Available at CTC especially for cleaning battery terminals (fine wire, usually brass or some similar alloy, then apply a light coat of battery grease to all mating surfaces(also available at CTC)Petrolium jelly will work too in a pinch.

 

Once all your connections have been made, apply a light coat over the connections this will prevent any corrosion. Just remember; on a negitive ground system ALWAYS disconnect the Negitive terminal first and reconnect the negitive terminal last! This is VERY Important!!!!!

 

Another thing you should check is the water level in the battery unless it is a maint. free battery, if it needs topping up only use DISTILLED water (available at any drug store).

[gone_fishin]

I suspect you have a bad connection either at the battery, solonid, or at the starter. (probably at the battery, the hissing and popping sound you are hearing is arcing)

 

Clean all the connections using a wire brush (Available at CTC especially for cleaning battery terminals (fine wire, usually brass or some similar alloy, then apply a light coat of battery grease to all mating surfaces(also available at CTC)Petrolium jelly will work too in a pinch.

 

Once all your connections have been made, apply a light coat over the connections this will prevent any corrosion. Just remember; on a negitive ground system ALWAYS disconnect the Negitive terminal first and reconnect the negitive terminal last! This is VERY Important!!!!!

 

Another thing you should check is the water level in the battery unless it is a maint. free battery, if it needs topping up only use DISTILLED water (available at any drug store).

 

i was gonna say the same thing... i have that problem on occasion as well. clean off the battery terminals and your connectors and you should be good to go, as long as your battery does indeed hold a charge...

[Fisherman]

Clean all the connections using a wire brush (Available at CTC especially for cleaning battery terminals (fine wire, usually brass or some similar alloy, then apply a light coat of battery grease to all mating surfaces(also available at CTC)Petrolium jelly will work too in a pinch.

 

 

Time for the wrench. Clean the terminal connections, good, but why would you want to apply vaseline or anything else to the mating surfaces? You're trying to get 100% no resistance and that ain't gonna happen too well with your method. Tighten up the connectors dry and then apply whatever you want around the terminal and connectors.

[irishfield]

. Just remember; on a negitive ground system ALWAYS disconnect the Negitive terminal first and reconnect the negitive terminal last! This is VERY Important!!!!!

 

 

 

Geepers Cliff... you take all the fun out of everything!!!

 

STEP ONE...remove any rings from hands! I have an old highschool friend that can show you why and the hand jestures he can't make without that finger! (ring between positive lug on a starter and casting).

[Big Cliff]

Time for the wrench. Clean the terminal connections, good, but why would you want to apply vaseline or anything else to the mating surfaces? You're trying to get 100% no resistance and that ain't gonna happen too well with your method. Tighten up the connectors dry and then apply whatever you want around the terminal and connectors.

 

It's that extra little step that prevents oxidation of the contacts but each to their own!!!

 

I do it and I've never had a problem so I keep doing it!

[sconceptor]

woot woot....FnA.....she's purrin like a kitten

 

Thanks for the tips. I cleaned the terminals but it wasn't it. The first assembled piece of the motor that connects the wiring to the battery was off the stainless bracket. I must have knocked it off when removing the oil filter. The assembly is the starter relay I think? It's the piece that clicks when the starter is pushed. However, it wouldn't slide back into place so I bent the tabs open, slide it in place and folded the tabs closed. First time hitting go, it turned over with lots of juice.

 

I got the boat motor going, got the lawn mower going, and summerized the snow blower. Not bad for a guy who's not very mechanically inclined.

 

Time for some hockey and a few Blues well I read over the new Ontario Out of Doors, Beer store mag and crappy tire flyer.

 

Hopefully tomorrow I'll be booking a cabin or tent site for the Tuesday and Wednesday of the week before the LakeAir G2G for a little trip up that way.