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gas ice auger prep


GBW

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Well it looks like my ice season is done. this is my first year with a gas auger so what do you do to store it?

I was thinking of running it dry of gas and putting oil on the blades. right thing to do? :unsure:

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Well it looks like my ice season is done. this is my first year with a gas auger so what do you do to store it?

I was thinking of running it dry of gas and putting oil on the blades. right thing to do? :unsure:

 

Yes, you can also pull the plug, add a teaspoon or two of two stroke oil, turn the engine over a couple times slowly, replace the plug and say good night.

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This will be like a Dodge/GMC/Ford.. or a Billy Bob brand thread.

 

I run Stihl oil that already has stabilizer in it. I use it for the winter and just pop it off the back of the sled and store it upright.

 

I might give it a bit of oil.. ala fisherman.. as it was a bit tight to start last year, but then again that could have been my clutch box falling apart.. as I hadn't had any issues the 3 years prior.

Edited by irishfield
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Yes, you can also pull the plug, add a teaspoon or two of two stroke oil, turn the engine over a couple times slowly, replace the plug and say good night.

 

This is what I do. Run it dry, pop the plug, a few drops of oil, turn it over a few times and she'll be all ready for next season.

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Well dump the fuel out first... or you'll be standing there a long time looking like a fool to the neighbours.... ;O)

 

FWIW.. I never run a carb dry. Stuck floats.. dried out gaskets and needle seats etc my reasoning.

Edited by irishfield
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Well dump the fuel out first... or you'll be standing there a long time looking like a fool to the neighbours.... ;O)

 

FWIW.. I never run a carb dry. Stuck floats.. dried out gaskets and needle seats etc my reasoning.

They don't have floats, they have a diaphram.

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This will be like a Dodge/GMC/Ford.. or a Billy Bob brand thread.

 

I run Stihl oil that already has stabilizer in it. I use it for the winter and just pop it off the back of the sled and store it upright.

 

I might give it a bit of oil.. ala fisherman.. as it was a bit tight to start last year, but then again that could have been my clutch box falling apart.. as I hadn't had any issues the 3 years prior.

 

I went with the stihl like you told me too Wayne.I did notice it had stabil in it.So just leave it alone?

 

Thanks again .

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Do yourself a favour put some stabilizer in your fuel, put some fuel back in the tank, full is best, start and run for a couple of minutes then just do what Wayne said, store it up right with the tank vent closed and next winter you'll be good to go.

 

Years gone by running them dry was the prefered method but that also lets the engine run lean for a few seconds just before it quits. Might not ruin the engine this year or even next but it will shorten it's life. Oh, and it is a 2 stroke so no real need to put oil in the cylinder there will be enough from the fuel/oil mix that you used.

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I store all my stuff full of gas with stabilizer. NEVER had a fuel issue. I don't like leaving stuff empty, just leaves space for "bad" things to get in. Nowadays, all my machines get shell V-power for fuel. I don't care what the cost of gas is, that's all I use.

 

 

S.

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So, being in the same boat as GBW, after reading this thread, I guess I'll empty the tank, run it dry, remove the plg, put some oil in it, re-fill the tank, run it for a bit, then hang it upright for the season... seems pretty simple to me! LMAO

HH

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So, being in the same boat as GBW, after reading this thread, I guess I'll empty the tank, run it dry, remove the plg, put some oil in it, re-fill the tank, run it for a bit, then hang it upright for the season... seems pretty simple to me! LMAO

HH

 

Or, you can save yourself a lot of trouble and just do it right the first time. :rolleyes:

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Ya, then I must be doing something right, 42 year old snowblower that's never had anything done except a new muffler, new belts, one tire tube and one friction wheel, no carb work ever, I drain my dry.

 

42 years ya say,how old are ya? :tease:

 

 

Im going to add a splash of stabil run it for a minute or so then remove the head and store.

 

Thanks for starting the thread Geoff.

Edited by Misfish
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42 years ya say,how old are ya? :tease:

 

 

Im going to add a splash of stabil run it for a minute or so then remove the head and store.

 

Thanks for starting the thread Geoff.

56 3/4, I remember the day dad and I picked it up from Aikenhead Hardware at Cedarbrae Mall, no ramps, pick it up and put it in the truck.

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Ya, then I must be doing something right, 42 year old snowblower that's never had anything done except a new muffler, new belts, one tire tube and one friction wheel, no carb work ever, I drain my dry.

 

2 or 4 stroke? Makes a big difference! 4 Stroke run dry still has oil in the crank case to lubricate things. 2 stroke run dry = no oil to lubricate things for the last few seconds.

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i usualy store my engines with a good shot of stabliser and oil in the gas . genererly close to empty.

it will produce alot of smoke when yoyu first start it up next season/but thats ok.

i turn my engines over a few times during the off season.

i have never had a problem with carbs or fule lines.

the plug might get a litle fould but so what . wash it with gas and its good to go.

 

 

ps. my sled is 15years old /full compreson. runs like a champ. 11000 k

 

Gonefishing.gif

Edited by saltydawg
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2 or 4 stroke? Makes a big difference! 4 Stroke run dry still has oil in the crank case to lubricate things. 2 stroke run dry = no oil to lubricate things for the last few seconds.

My Ariens is a 4 stroke, looks like we agree for the 4's

As for 2 strokes, I do the same, however I don't/won't buy your theory that running them dry for the last few seconds will not provide any lubricatuion for the following reasons.

1. How many posts have we had here where the poster mentions an oil residue dripping from the exhaust at the end of the season. It's oil that's run out of the exhaust.

2. Two and four stroke oils are different critters, four stroke will burn and leave more carbon than unburnt oil, although 2 stroke "burns in the combustion process, not all of it does.

3. When you run a two stroke dry, it does lean out, that's part of the formula of ratio of air/gas/oil mix, no more gas/oil, the air amount increases and it tends to rev up(lean).

4. Take a 2 stroke apart even after running it dry and there's still a healthy amount of oil residue in the crankcase.

 

This is just a healthy chat and in no way am I disrespecting you, just a different view. :thumbsup_anim:

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My Ariens is a 4 stroke, looks like we agree for the 4's

As for 2 strokes, I do the same, however I don't/won't buy your theory that running them dry for the last few seconds will not provide any lubricatuion for the following reasons.

1. How many posts have we had here where the poster mentions an oil residue dripping from the exhaust at the end of the season. It's oil that's run out of the exhaust.

2. Two and four stroke oils are different critters, four stroke will burn and leave more carbon than unburnt oil, although 2 stroke "burns in the combustion process, not all of it does.

3. When you run a two stroke dry, it does lean out, that's part of the formula of ratio of air/gas/oil mix, no more gas/oil, the air amount increases and it tends to rev up(lean).

4. Take a 2 stroke apart even after running it dry and there's still a healthy amount of oil residue in the crankcase.

 

This is just a healthy chat and in no way am I disrespecting you, just a different view. :thumbsup_anim:

 

 

No problem but after 3 years of school and several thousand hours of working as a licensed small engine mechanic I'll stick to my way of doing it. I agree to disagree!

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