2000-2005 Jetta TDI

[cwpowell]

Anyone have any experience with these?

 

Any things I should look out for.

 

Bad or good.

 

Thank you.

[irishfield]

Billm is your Jedi man !

[cwpowell]

Thank you sir.

[Muskieman]

I had a 2001 TDI and I loved her!!

 

60+ MPG , better than any car in it's class outhandled and outpowered any compact, Focus, Cobalt,Cavalier,Protege,Elantra,Civic,Mazda3 you get the idea.

...man I loved her..... I had a newish waterpump seize and a timing belt slip and KABOOM!!! that was the end of that.

 

I'm now in a '08 Mazda6 and would go back to my '01 Jetta any day.

 

Randy

[HTHM]

I own a 2004 Jetta wagon TDI and think it is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Apparently the motors were changed the following year and are not as good??? I get 800 - 850 kms on a tank and it costs ~$60 to fill. As well, the oil change interval is 12,000 km, at $80 a pop. Works out cheaper than a dino change every 5000 km.

Bear in mind every 120,000 km you have to change the timing belt and water pump, around $400 - $1200 depending on where it is done.

[crappieperchhunter]

CW...make sure you add gas line anti freeze as soon as it looks like it will be getting colder. I can't stress this enough.The diesel will gel up and clog your fuel filter I believe. Has happened on all 3 diesel golfs I have owned. Cdn Tire sells 6 packs of 150 ml bottles of the stuff. Just throw a bottle in everytime you fill up in the winter and you will have no issues. I start with it in mid December and do it until the end of February.Also my 2002 has a huge problem with the doors freezing shut. I put white lithium grease around the door frame on the felt/foam in the fall and I get through the winter without any door freezing issues.

 

Good solid dependable cars...but not cheap to have work done on...unless you are car smart and can do it yourself or know someone.

[BillM]

Adding gas line antifreeze to a diesel isn't a very good idea, stick to PowerService if you are going to add anything I don't add any additives to my TDI in the winter, all Canadian diesel is treated with antigel additives, this is one of the reasons why you notice a little less mileage in the winter compared to the summer. The only thing I can say is that make sure you fill up at a high volume station in order to lesson the odds of you getting water in your diesel.

 

As far as the years are concerned, here's a quick run down.

 

99.5-'03 Golf/Jetta - These are MKIV model year cars. Rotary pump ALH engine, best for mileage and the most reliable. This is what I own, my TDI has 560,000kms on it and no signs of giving up just yet.

 

'04-'06 MKIV Golf and '04 Jetta - These cars have the BEW Pumpe Duse engines, a little bit more power then the ALH powered cars, but are known for having cam issues. Mileage isn't as good as the rotary pump engines..These are piezo injected cars (there is an extra lobe on the cam of the engine which runs a fuel injector).

 

'05-'06 MKV Jetta - This is the new style of Jetta with the BRM PD engine. This engine is known for eating cams!!!!! Stay far far away. My parents had one of these and my mom totaled it, no one was hurt but I'm glad they no longer own it, ticking time bomb.

 

'09-Current year Jetta, Golf and Golf Wagon - These have the new 140hp/236ftlbs CR (Common Rail) engines.. Way better power delivery then any of the previous model year cars. Mileage is about the same as the PD cars, still not as good as the ALH powered Jettas and Golfs. These engines are as smooth as butter and come with 6spd manuals or DSG equipped transmissions....

 

 

If I were you I'd stick to a 99.5-'03 car.. Timing belts are done every 160k, that's about a $650 job if you can't do it yourself. They are response quite well to a few mods which really wake them up and make them a lot more fun to drive. Any other questions just let me know

Edited March 16, 2011 by BillM

[crappieperchhunter]

Adding gas line antifreeze to a diesel isn't a very good idea, stick to PowerService if you are going to add anything I don't add any additives to my TDI in the winter, all Canadian diesel is treated with antigel additives, this is one of the reasons why you notice a little less mileage in the winter compared to the summer. The only thing I can say is that make sure you fill up at a high volume station in order to lesson the odds of you getting water in your diesel.

 

 

 

I wasn't aware of this Bill. The stuff I add is recommended for diesel fuels. What exactly should I be concerned about? And what is this power service and where can I get it? Are you suggesting my problems have been because of water getting in rather then the fuel gelling? I'm going to trade my 2002 Golf probably next year...time for a truck...but I have always tried to look after it.

 

Any tips would be appreciated.

[BillM]

I wasn't aware of this Bill. The stuff I add is recommended for diesel fuels. What exactly should I be concerned about? And what is this power service and where can I get it? Are you suggesting my problems have been because of water getting in rather then the fuel gelling? I'm going to trade my 2002 Golf probably next year...time for a truck...but I have always tried to look after it.

 

Any tips would be appreciated.

 

You can get PowerService at Canadian Tire, Grey or White bottle, your choice really.

 

If you get condensation in the tank, you could end up with icing issues, opposed to the actual fuel gelling. Like I mentioned before, all Canadian diesel is pre-treated at the plant to avoid this. Gelling isn't a common problem up here, unless you are running BioD or you are getting your diesel at a low volume station which might be contaminated with water. There is also a mod you can do to the fuel sender unit that's located underneath the rear passenger seat. There is a check valve in some of the earlier model cars that can restrict the flow of fuel, a lot of guys just drill out the check valve. Might wanna look into it...

[Uncle Buck]

Fuel Anti Freeze helps in the winter time...

 

also change the fuel filter often... much cheaper then changing the injector pump...

 

The motor is gutless... but it's very economical...

[Tarzan's Jane]

I own a 2003 Jetta TDI - nice leather seats that heat my little tush in the winter :-)

 

I am just under 220,000 km I average 900 - 1000 km per fill up. Not as much in the winter but I'm very happy with 600 - 800 km during the cold months.

 

This winter I did install a heater...and it for sure made all the difference. Twice the car would not start and that was with the additives mentioned by others. I had enough and splurged - I believe it cost me $175.00

 

My mechanic recommends an oil change after 8,000 km. I tend to go after 10,000 km as it costs me just over $100.00 each time.

 

The car is a tad louder in the winter and tends to take too long for my liking to heat up....not so much though if I plug it in.

 

Anyhow....good luck.

[Fish4Eyes]

To those that go to private garages for oil changes, I wouldn't. I did once and I noticed the car was very gutless after about 5000km. Use only the dealer oil. Its about $4.XX per quart. The synthetic is rated for 15000km.

 

I wonder if they fixed the cam issues in the newer 2010/2011 models.

Edited March 16, 2011 by Fish4Eyes

[walleyemen]

I agree with with Bill on the 99.5 to 03, great cars, wife crashhed hers as well and wrote it off insurance didn't allow us enough to get back into another one, but i did get a 99.5 Jetta gaser with 84,000 miles, still wish we had the golf!As far as them being more expensive to fix, really not more than any car really, stay away fron ct for repairs, they have no idea how to work on them and believe me i experinced this the hard way.

[bigbuck]

With the TDI VWs, stick to either the dealer (stealer) or to an independant shop that specializes in VWs. They are great little cars that run forever and are cheap on fuel.

[SBCregal]

if you do the timing belt yourself, make sure you replace the engine mount bolts that need to be removed to access the belt. on some of them (not sure if its all of them) they use torque to yield style bolts for the mount to block bolts. if you dont replace them you can over torque them and crack a part of the engine block. theres a repair kit out there online somewhere that we ordered to fix a customer car that came in on the hook after the engine almost dropped out of it.

 

ryan

[BillM]

Fuel Anti Freeze helps in the winter time...

 

also change the fuel filter often... much cheaper then changing the injector pump...

 

The motor is gutless... but it's very economical...

 

It helps if you are using crappy fuel for sure. In stock form the cars leave a little to be desired as far as performance is concerned. My car right now makes 180whp/300ftlbs, it's an absolute blast to drive if I can get the tires to stick

 

I own a 2003 Jetta TDI - nice leather seats that heat my little tush in the winter :-)

 

I am just under 220,000 km I average 900 - 1000 km per fill up. Not as much in the winter but I'm very happy with 600 - 800 km during the cold months.

 

This winter I did install a heater...and it for sure made all the difference. Twice the car would not start and that was with the additives mentioned by others. I had enough and splurged - I believe it cost me $175.00

 

My mechanic recommends an oil change after 8,000 km. I tend to go after 10,000 km as it costs me just over $100.00 each time.

 

The car is a tad louder in the winter and tends to take too long for my liking to heat up....not so much though if I plug it in.

 

Anyhow....good luck.

 

Standard Oil Change Interval (OCI) for TDI's is 16,000kms.. You are only wasting your money if you are doing it before that. I run extended OCI's (20-25,000kms) because I'm on the highway all the time.. If you are mostly city driving, 10k is probably a good number to do a oil/filter at.

 

To those that go to private garages for oil changes, I wouldn't. I did once and I noticed the car was very gutless after about 5000km. Use only the dealer oil. Its about $4.XX per quart. The synthetic is rated for 15000km.

 

I wonder if they fixed the cam issues in the newer 2010/2011 models.

 

Which oil you use really depends on which model you have. Different engines require different oils obviously.. If you have a 99.5-03, then any decent semi or full synthetic 0w40 or 5w40 diesel oil will do. I run Mobil 1 TDT 5w40 I get at Walmart, great oil for these specific engines.. If you are running the PD engines ('04-'06) you need at a minimum of a VW505.01 certified oil, most guys are running VW507. For this oil, I'd definitely get it at the dealer... Your OCI really depends on the grade of oil and how you drive your car. The best thing to do if you want to run extended oil change intervals is to get a OA (Oil analysis) from Blackstone...

 

As far as the cams in the '09-'11 cars, they are completely different engines then the PD's, they are Common Rail opposed to Piezo Injection.. No cam issues with the new cars, although some people have had HPFP issues (High Pressure Fuel Pump)..

 

if you do the timing belt yourself, make sure you replace the engine mount bolts that need to be removed to access the belt. on some of them (not sure if its all of them) they use torque to yield style bolts for the mount to block bolts. if you dont replace them you can over torque them and crack a part of the engine block. theres a repair kit out there online somewhere that we ordered to fix a customer car that came in on the hook after the engine almost dropped out of it.

 

ryan

 

You need the proper set of tools when doing a TB.. Cam lock down, crank lock down and the injection pump lock down pin. ALL bolts are TTY and should be replaced. This includes the 3 engine mount bolts and the IP pulley bolts (Although the IP pulley bolts can be replaced with non TTY bolts). During your TB change you should also be replacing the waterpump all the rollers/pulleys. I've seen so many shops skimp out on this which causes a failure down the road. Either do it right or don't do it at all

[Fish4Eyes]

Mines a 1998 Bill. Fuel economy without all them funky sensors

[ketchenany]

It helps if you are using crappy fuel for sure. In stock form the cars leave a little to be desired as far as performance is concerned. My car right now makes 180whp/300ftlbs, it's an absolute blast to drive if I can get the tires to stick

 

 

 

Standard Oil Change Interval (OCI) for TDI's is 16,000kms.. You are only wasting your money if you are doing it before that. I run extended OCI's (20-25,000kms) because I'm on the highway all the time.. If you are mostly city driving, 10k is probably a good number to do a oil/filter at.

 

 

 

Which oil you use really depends on which model you have. Different engines require different oils obviously.. If you have a 99.5-03, then any decent semi or full synthetic 0w40 or 5w40 diesel oil will do. I run Mobil 1 TDT 5w40 I get at Walmart, great oil for these specific engines.. If you are running the PD engines ('04-'06) you need at a minimum of a VW505.01 certified oil, most guys are running VW507. For this oil, I'd definitely get it at the dealer... Your OCI really depends on the grade of oil and how you drive your car. The best thing to do if you want to run extended oil change intervals is to get a OA (Oil analysis) from Blackstone...

 

As far as the cams in the '09-'11 cars, they are completely different engines then the PD's, they are Common Rail opposed to Piezo Injection.. No cam issues with the new cars, although some people have had HPFP issues (High Pressure Fuel Pump)..

 

 

 

You need the proper set of tools when doing a TB.. Cam lock down, crank lock down and the injection pump lock down pin. ALL bolts are TTY and should be replaced. This includes the 3 engine mount bolts and the IP pulley bolts (Although the IP pulley bolts can be replaced with non TTY bolts). During your TB change you should also be replacing the waterpump all the rollers/pulleys. I've seen so many shops skimp out on this which causes a failure down the road. Either do it right or don't do it at all

 

And you were looking for someone to oil your reel a while back!

[BillM]

And you were looking for someone to oil your reel a while back!

 

 

LOL!!! What can I say, I'd rather do things myself then pay someone else to do it, especially when it comes to my cars/trucks. Reels on the other hand are delicate little things which I probably don't have the patience for

 

Mines a 1998 Bill. Fuel economy without all them funky sensors

 

Awesome car, I love the MK3 AHU/1Z cars.

Edited March 16, 2011 by BillM

[msp]

I had a 97 for 10 years. Sold it with 520 000 k

I miss her ! best car I ever had

[mk2vr6]

Or go real old school like my 92 1.6TD... no ECU's, 1 wire runs the motor... Best tank was 1190 kms from a 55L tank vented to 58L... not bad for a 19 year old car. It's gone now but I bought a 92 Passat Syncro Wagon w/ a 1.9TD swap. 75L tank, ~6L/100km average mileage, large station wagon, all wheel drive, with a suspension lift. plus custom cam, giles pump, 2.5" mandrel DP. I swapped the stock cam back in because the custom one was giving me cold start issues. But with the oil pan heater and block heater, as long as there is a plug around, it starts awesome. I couldn't stay away from the diesels for long. Most people I know who have owned one, ALWAYS own a diesel again eventually.

[cwpowell]

Or go real old school like my 92 1.6TD... no ECU's, 1 wire runs the motor... Best tank was 1190 kms from a 55L tank vented to 58L... not bad for a 19 year old car. It's gone now but I bought a 92 Passat Syncro Wagon w/ a 1.9TD swap. 75L tank, ~6L/100km average mileage, large station wagon, all wheel drive, with a suspension lift. plus custom cam, giles pump, 2.5" mandrel DP. I swapped the stock cam back in because the custom one was giving me cold start issues. But with the oil pan heater and block heater, as long as there is a plug around, it starts awesome. I couldn't stay away from the diesels for long. Most people I know who have owned one, ALWAYS own a diesel again eventually.

 

Beauty yeah I've been looking for one. shoot me a pm or e-mail if anyone see's one for sale.