bait caster woes...

[OhioFisherman]

I learned on a bait caster, and old Langley when I was 5, it takes some practice, and every reel can fell a bit different but it is something you should learn and get comfortable with if you like to fish. Spinning reels and even spin-casting reels can have their uses, but for big fish and frequent use a bait caster is the way to go. It doesn`t have to be a top end reel to get good results with it, just practice and getting used to the reel.

 

I clean my own, I like to know how much grease and oil is in them, it can make a bit of a difference in cooler weather when the grease and oil are thicker. Learn to flip and pitch with them, precise control will allow you to catch more fish.

 

I don`t like to experiment with line, find one that works for you and stick with it if it works. I have a mix of baitcaster, some from the late 70`s and early 80`s, all Abu`s or Shimano`s some newer one, just haven`t seen a reason to upgrade.

 

LOL practice! nothing worse than being in a boat with a partner that spends the day catching trees and docks.

[TJQ]

Thats a great tip Terry!!

 

no

they take concentration and touching the spool with your thumb as needed

 

the best way to start is make a good long cast then let out another 25 ft

 

now use electrical tape and go around the spool twice then reel in the line

 

that will help prevent backlashes while you are learning

then practice..practice practice

[charlesn]

What's a backlash?

 

 

Been using a baitcaster for 15 years or so now and still get an occasional nasty one where I just reel over it and act like I was done with that rod anyways if my non-boater is watching... lol

 

Use heavy line. I'd say 17-20 and use at least a 3/8 oz casting plug - 1/2 oz if you are going in to the wind at all. The thicker diameter makes it far less likely that the line will really dig in to itself on the spool which can make for some interesting bird's nests... Heck I think I could raised a few Great Blue Heron families on some of the ones I've had.

 

Set the brakes and centrifugal weights (if it is a centrifugal weight system) to max. Learn to cast 20 feet without backlashing before worrying about casting 30/40/50/100 feet. I'd also recommend practicing away from the lake first - because when I was learning I found that when you get a backlash on the lake - your immediate reaction is to put it down and resort to the spinning gear just to be fishing again. After all, fishing time is precious. But once you "master" it, I think you will tend to pick it up over the spinning reel more and more as there is just something about it - maybe it just feels like more of a direct connection to the lure or something but given the choice for a technique, I'll always pick baitcasting first.

 

Charles

[irishfield]

Thats a great tip Terry!!

 

TJ rummages thru desk drawer.. looking for tape..

[lookinforwalleye]

There you have it Blue Pickeral some good advice and most of it repeated over and over again just in case it didn`t sink in the first time, they must think your slow or something!LOL

 

Just kiddin!

[fish-miester]

its all personal prefference ..

[blue pickeral]

Thanks for all the very helpful replies! Made a chronological list of pointers and printed out -technique is coming along...tape tip was very helpful. Looked like 'KungFu' out there 'becoming one' with reel and rod....removed tape for one last cast in anticipation of spooling on heavier line as suggested, plug and line drift through the air in a beautiful arc and entranced, forget to use thumb....as mentioned in thread....kept me from getting smug! Thanks again.

[SlowPoke]

Thanks for all the very helpful replies! Made a chronological list of pointers and printed out -technique is coming along...tape tip was very helpful. Looked like 'KungFu' out there 'becoming one' with reel and rod....removed tape for one last cast in anticipation of spooling on heavier line as suggested, plug and line drift through the air in a beautiful arc and entranced, forget to use thumb....as mentioned in thread....kept me from getting smug! Thanks again.

 

Something to keep in mind is controling inertia. Spool braking and/or thumbing provides this. Without brakes or thumbing, your lure is trying to slow down before the spool.

 

When the spit hits the fan, it's because the spool's inertia trying to push the line through the guides instead of the lure pulling the line through the guides.

 

Light mono and all braids are limp and clingy and will bunch up on the spool or in the guides. A heavy (stiff) mono line is a lot more forgiving but not foolproof.

 

Understanding this concept and keeping the spool under control at all times will really help. Eventually you will be able to freespool in the middle of the cast thumbing when necessary as you feel a little line slap against your thumb. I tend to thumb the side of the spool rather than the line itself and find it reduces overthumbing and increases my distance.

[Paully]

http://www.ontariofishing.net/emagazine2010/march2010-2.html some tips here..

[OhioFisherman]

I haven`t looked at newer reels much, I regularly used 10# test on my older Shimano 251`s, on my older Abu`s 10# test will get between the spool and the frame, I needed to use at least 12# test on the Abu`s and since they are bigger reels I usually use at least 14# test. With today`s super lines and floro there isn`t much need to run a lite line on a baitcaster.

[holdfast]

- but about every 5th cast goes haywire.

 

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Don't worry about it, Im at maybe peeling back line one out of every seven casts. I will admit it. I know how to cast technically, it cant be the reels as Ive used three different Abu Garcia I own including a magnetic brake. However I have seen the pros on TV always peeling back their line after casting. Anyways I think Bait Casting is overrated and expensive. Better as trolling reels. MY PERSONAL OPINION. What I find that helps is a long shallow POP FLY than a Hard Line Drive with your lure in BaseBall terms. Take Terrys advice.

[Musky or Specks]

For what it's worth coming from a relative newby, here's what I was told by a couple of helpful folks when I started.

 

Start with 12-15# mono till you get the hang of it. The idea being if you have some snarls it's cheaper to cut out than braid.

 

Set the spool brake down fairly tight to prevent it from running ahead of the line. Your casts will be shorter but much more satisfying. As you get more comfortable you can loosen off and try for longer casts. I think this is one of the biggest things for the beginner. I have to remember to tighten down if I'm in windy conditions and/or using lighter lures. It's one of the things I really like about my Quantum Energy reel. The brake is on the outside of the case.

 

Use a heavy enuf lure (or practice weight) to keep tension on the line. Light lures tend to decelerate and allow spool overrun.

 

Use two hands. In the beginning it will just be easier. Later on it will help generate speed.

 

Aim for the sky above the intended target rather than the actual target.

 

Keep yer thumb ready to brake the spool when the lure lands. You'll get the feel for it as you get more practice and your thumb will soon just do it automatically.

 

Like Roy and Lew said it came pretty easy when I followed these few tips. I had a lot of fun ripping plastic frogs onto slop last summer. Long casts means lots of water covered.

 

FWIW

JF

The above bolded is the correct statement. You have to take into cosideration the physics and engeneering of a baitcaster as opposed to a spinning reel. On a spinning reel the line freely comes off the spool. On a baitcaster the line comes off only as fast as the spool doles it out. The easiest way to remember it is your rod should stop its casting motion 90 degrees before you would normally stop it with a spinnig reel. You need to give the line time to get off the spool until the energy of the lure(cast) is spent. This is why you should buy things from small local dealers. When I use to work at one we would always give newbys lessons before they would buy a baitcaster. Because once they are confidant with one they will have to buy a few more.

[carp-starter]

 

 

Attached is a photo of a bait caster reel. This is my reel – ABU Garcia Pro Max 3600.

 

On the reel there are 2 drag systems – B and C (star drag). The two drags are independent of each other and they have different functions.

 

Drag C is the same as you would find on a spinning reel on top of the spool. If you tighten C, you will make it more difficult for the fish to pull out more line if he decides to run. If this drag is too loose, the fish will easily run and you will not be able to stop the fish and tire him.

 

Drag B controls the revolution of the spool on a cast. If it is too tight, you will not be able to cast the lure because the spool will not revolve. If it is too loose you will be able to cast the lure but you may get “bird’s nest” - if you do not stop the spool with your thumb. Bird’s nest will happen when the spool keeps on revolving when the lure hits the water or when the lure is coming out of the reel while the spool is revolving too fast. Basically, in both cases, the spool is revolving too fast.

 

To prevent “bird’s nest” you will have to tighten/loosen drag B and at the same time be able to cast your lure.

 

To cast a lure, you must first press knob A. Then you must adjust drag B.

 

Set up your rod, reel and lure so that the whole thing is ready to cast – hold the rod in front of you. Indoors or outside, it does not matter.

 

Press A and check what happens to your lure. Does it go down? If it goes down, tighten drag B all the way – this will become the starting point for you with instructions below. If the lure did not go down, continue with the instructions below.

 

Loosen drag B and loosen it to the point that the lure “just” goes down. Do not loosen B more than needed – just enough for the lure go down. Now we will FINE TUNE the setting.

 

Make sure that A has been pressed with your thumb. This will be the starting point to fine-tuning the drag - by casting a lure.

 

The above setting of B may be just right for the lure you are using. B must be changed and adjusted for every lure. But you may have to tighten B a touch or loosen B a touch. You will find this out when you cast the lure - OUTSIDE.

 

Cast first with the B drag as is. If you do not like it, you will have to cast with the B drag loosened or tightened and see what you like best. Make sure that the spool does not keep on revolving when the lure hits the water. When the spool keeps on revolving, you must tighten drag B or with your thumb stop the spool.

 

With my settings, once that lure hits the water, the spool on the reel STOPS revolving. It stops DEAD. I might be able to get a few yards more in my cast if I were to loosen B just a bit or more than just a bit. But then of course my spool would continue to revolve when my lure hits the water. To stop the spool, I would have to apply my thumb to the spool to stop it. The extra yards gained, if any, is not worth the hassle.

 

It is easier to cast a heavier lure than a lighter lure. With my Berkley Series One rod and the ABU Garcia Pro Max 3600 reel, ¾ to 1 oz is the perfect weight. For anything less than ½ oz I use a spinning rod.

 

Practice with a floating lure.

 

After I bought my rod/reel, I went over to a park on Lake Ontario to practice using a tandem Musky Killer, one ounce. On my first cast I got bird’s nest. While I tried to untangle the line, the lure sank to the bottom. When I untangled the line so that I could reel in the line, I found that the lure was stuck in the rocks. The result was that I lost a $10.00 (plus taxes of course) lure on my very first cast. So, use a floating lure. The heavier – around ¾ oz, the better.

 

I use 12 or 14 lbs Berkley, Trilene and I am happy.

 

After that very 1st cast, I never had bird’s nest again – 16 years ago.

 

Good luck.

 

carp-starter

[skeeter]

Yes, I always have a crochet hook onboard....I thought it could be useful just in case. I've never had to use it but you never know when I might get an urge to make a shawl or a doily or something.

 

 

 

but you only have 3 feet of line on your reel........

[Roy]

but you only have 3 feet of line on your reel........

Anything more than my height is a handful with these new-fangled reels.

[Harrison]

What's a backlash?

 

 

Charles

 

hahah "Professional Override" and for me, it always shows it's face when a camera boat appears or the perfect cast is linded up! I know personally there is usually one rod/reel in the rod locker after each tournament with a "professional override" that isn't worth even trying to get out til after weigh-in. Truth to why T anlgers have so many rods on deck!

 

Tons of great tips here! I used the tip Terry mentioned 20 years ago when got my first low profile baitcaster.

 

One other little tidbit... like a golf or baseball swing - don't try and kill it! Fliud motion is key.

 

Don't give up, it all comes with practice. Soon you'll be able to side cast and skip under trees and docks with a baitcaster.

Edited March 16, 2010 by Harrison

[Weeds]

I've seen mention of that before, skipping with a baitcaster. I can't even imagine how. Thumb spool, release, thumb, release, thumb. Seriously, for real? How?

[lookinforwalleye]

underhand flip similar to skipping a stone.

[Harrison]

I've seen mention of that before, skipping with a baitcaster. I can't even imagine how. Thumb spool, release, thumb, release, thumb. Seriously, for real? How?

 

Hey Weeds, I'll try and explain how I personally do it.

 

I have 2 techniques:

 

1. side arm underhand roll cast - both hands on the rod and making a counter clockwise circle, releasing the bait so it skims a few inches above the water. This takes some practice to get the timing and feathering of the spool down pat.

 

2. this is going to be harder to explain, one day I just started doing this. Hold the bait as if you are going to pitch it. I start the rod at 9 o'clock (rod in right hand) and swing it over to 3 o'clock at the same time releasing the bait and feathering the spool. Hard to explain, anyways, the bait will curl in from left to right skimming the top of the water. Amazing technique for getting up under thick trees and the side/back of docks.

 

Both techniques the magnets are almost completely off relying on the thumb to control the spool.

 

I hope the above makes sense and ya can picture it.

Phil

Edited March 17, 2010 by Harrison