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Anyone ever have trouble with their 4X4 drive. NF


jimmer

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I have a 2004 Silverado 1500. I lost my 4x4 this fall and it has me stumped. I hear the motor shift the transfer case. The front drive shaft doesn't turn in 2wd, but will turn in 4wd, but no turning of the front wheels. I changed out the axle actuator with one from the wreckers to see if that's what the problem was. No luck. Has anyone had this experience and found a solution? My next step is to try the actuator outside of the axle to see if the plunger is working. Maybe wiring???

Any tips or hints would be appreciated.

Thanks,

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That's what I thought Dara, but nothing that simple as to say front axle actuator. Must be listed under something else. I googled it and that didn't help me either.

 

 

Well if Google can't help...you're pooched

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i so miss the manual transfer case in my old jeep. not much can go wrong. yank the handle and you're in 4wd.

 

a freaking software recall had 4LO in-operable for months before chrysler fixed the 'fix' in my grand cherokee.

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Might help

 

Interesting and good info to know. I think my issue is a little different though. I'm not getting any warnings to fix 4x4 or codes coming up. I hear the transfer case motor shifting and my front drive shaft will turn when I shift into one of the 4WD positions that's why I thought it was the axle lock.

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With you saying that the front driveshaft engages, when put into 4X4 the problem is not at the T case.

To check if this is or is not an internal front differential (mechanical) issue. Remove the axle lock actuator solenoid, you should see a plunger in the hole where the actuator was. With the front wheels off the ground, have a helper rotate the front driveshaft, while you push in on that plunger; if all is good the axles should lock in.

Here's a Vid that at 3:39 and at 7:00 minutes, shows you that plunger assembly.

 

 

Here are three wiring diagrams that may help you figure it out electrically?

Without being there to see and analyze pin tests, voltage readings and scanner data; it would be hard to diagnose; at my keyboard.

 

4X4%201_zpsan39cbvl.jpg?t=1478096757

 

Have a look at the top right corner of fig. 2, there's a 15 amp fuse in the under dash (IP) fuse panel.

 

0aaf61ea-4645-45e5-8d10-632c1d89701b_zps

 

4X4%203_zpsjsr3f5u5.jpg

 

Here the location of the 15 amp fuse in the left under dash fuse panel.

 

Fuse%20panel_zps0b8fvlao.jpg?t=147809919

 

Hope This helps you a bit?

 

Dan.

Edited by DanD
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At least you have 2 wheel drive! I'm running my F150 in 4Hi right now thanks to Fords wonderful vacuum actuated hub engagement... that won't fully disengage for 2 wheel drive and it makes that expensive grinding sound....

 

that was a $700 repair on my 05 f150, i could hear the vac hub knocking against the wheel hub

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You'd think they'd get it right after 10 model years. Effects '04 to '12 apparently. I'll be fixing it myself, hopefully not needing the "vacuum clutch" but if so I've found it for $125US for the one side that's acting up.

 

I thought my hub had failed and then realized it wasn't a ball bearing sound but a gear mesh grind like my sister trying to drive standard. Scary part is you can't hear it if windows are up and radio is on at any volume. Thankfully I had the window down heading for the gate.

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When the actuator extended, did you try and push it back by hand; you might be able to but it should take a lot of force.

The actuator needs enough strength to push the diff plunger in and hold it there.

 

Dan

 

PS I'll try and get the two missing wiring diagrams back up, when photobucket comes back on-line.

Edited by DanD
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