Raf Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 from what i've gathered, cedar is a good choice for the wood and pressure treated can be a no-no for aluminum boats what do you suggest for the carpet? can i find it at home depot?
NANUK Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 Clean BC red cedar, you can buy trailer bunk carpet @ BPS I went with cedar and covered the top with 3/4" thick starboard, best of both worlds, full support of bunks but slick like rollers, my boat is all welded hull, no rivits, 2 seasons and very happy, just have to make sure boat is well over water before undoing winch strap @ the launch. I would go with carpet if hull is rivited. ceder is softer wood, it will sag a little and conforms to the shape of your hull, but still provides good support.
Moosebunk Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 Be watching this one too Raf. Need a replacement soon enough. Made 'em years ago for the WarCanoe trailer and they're still in great shape... just can't remember with what exactly.
Raf Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Posted September 5, 2014 thank you what do you mean by 'clean' cedar? untreated? boat is a riveted 14.5' & I plan on going carpeted. my launch routine is winch strap undone well before water.
NANUK Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 Clean (clear) cedar, I meant no knots.
Raf Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Posted September 5, 2014 Great, thank you stonefish. should be fairly painless I hope. Pre-build the bunks w/stainless staples, drop the boat in and replace existing bunks/brackets use lag bolts from underneath to attach to the 2x4s. should I be drilling pilot holes for the new lag bolts? sorry never worked with them before.
DRIFTER_016 Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 I replaced my bunks with 2X6 spruce a few years ago. I put 2 coats of Varathane on before covering with outdoor carpet I purchased at Home Hardware. It was installed using contact cement and stainless staples. To install the bunks I lowered the tongue jack on the trailer all the way. I then placed jack stands with wood plates under the back corners of the boat. Next I jacked it up all the way and placed a stand and plate under the centre line of the hull forward and lowered the tongue jack. This had the boat floating several inches above the bunks and made for easy removal and no rush to do the work. The lag screws can be run in with a screw gun or ratchet. No pilot hole is needed.
scugpg Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 Yup cedar but try and find some that hasn't been treated with anything. When I did mine they were around $12 bucks a board.
Fisherman Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 Lowes and Home Depot both carry untreated cedar 2x4, 2x6, some are pretty much knotless.
bushart Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 I went 2 x6---that was factory size from EZ Loader I also went PT covered in Carpet---had no issues Yes Cedar and Knots at times will make a nice place to crack---You may have to go thru the pile to find a couple without knots---is possible tho
Raf Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Posted September 5, 2014 thanks all for the input. got the cedar 2x4s, new lag bolts, HD indoor/outdoor carpet, SS staples.. see if I can put them together before the storms arrive today and head down to a lake tomorrow. i've a 18v impact driver which should make things go quickly when i dump the boat in the water.
NANUK Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 Where did you get SS staples ? I couldn't find them @ HD
Fisherman Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 Where did you get SS staples ? I couldn't find them @ HD http://www.homehardware.ca/en/cat/search/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN?Ntt=stainless+staples
bigbuck Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 You can get them at West Marine. There is another kind of metal called Monel. Better than stainless steel. They are pricey though. I think they are pushing 40 bucks a box of 1000. If you are going to do any interior work on the boat I would buy them. I am probably going to need to do mine next year so this thread has got me thinking.
misfish Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 I replaced my bunks with 2X6 spruce a few years ago. I put 2 coats of Varathane on before covering with outdoor carpet I purchased at Home Hardware. It was installed using contact cement and stainless staples. I know Im late,but what he said. Exception. I painted my planks with old oil base paint. Then covered with ID.OD carpet.
scugpg Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 Home Depot carries them. Arrow brand but if i recall the packaging isn't that obvious to differentiate them between the regular ones. Although this link appears to clearly state stainless http://m.homedepot.ca/Product/productdetails.aspx?ProductId=900847&lang=EN
Raf Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Posted September 5, 2014 (edited) I didnt find the SS staples at HD either, got them at home hardware -- same ones fisherman linked to. Edited September 5, 2014 by Raf
Fisherpete Posted September 6, 2014 Report Posted September 6, 2014 Anyone tried using the composite 2x4's for this application? My brother put together a small casting deck made from them for the front of his 14' Legend and it sits in the weather all summer, every summer and still looks the same after 8 seasons! It is heavy as heck (80 lbs or so), but the front of his boat ran very high anyway and it has helped reduce porpoising when only one person is in the boat. Too much flex maybe to be used as a bunk board?
Fish Farmer Posted September 7, 2014 Report Posted September 7, 2014 Or you could do this and not worry about rot. carpet holds water then rots the wood.
NANUK Posted September 7, 2014 Report Posted September 7, 2014 Fish Farmer, thats exactly what I did, works great !
Old Ironmaker Posted September 7, 2014 Report Posted September 7, 2014 Quote button not workingDave, a guy a few weeks ago cried like an infant when he dumped his boat onto the concrete at Richards very steep ramp. He put the same ice like bunks that you have on his trailer. Their first time at that ramp and buddy took off the safety chain and strap way too early and whoosh the boat slid right off onto the concrete, 5 feet from the creek. Skeg gone, prop gone, bottom end held on by 1 bolt, bottom of glass boat, gone, transom smashed. Gear oil everywhere. Here's a guy that just lost well more than who knows how many grand due to a simple mistake and Richard is freaking because there is oil on the ramp and he can't get anymore boats in until they figure how to get this poor guys broken boat and motor back onto the trailer.Be careful all taking that safety chain off too early, for any trailer.
Old Ironmaker Posted September 7, 2014 Report Posted September 7, 2014 (edited) Raf, Mine bunk rails had lag screws from below and I replaced with lag bolts from above because they worked themselves out, bolt and won't work themselves out, ever. The side bunks I used lag screws. Drill pilot holes regardless. For screws predrill about 1/3 diameter of screw then glue and screw, straight. I went with bolts as the lag screws worked their way out of the rotted wood. I filled the countersunk holes with silicone then bolted then carpeted. Cheap indoor outdoor will rot and tear away, Get commercial quality nylon carpet with a tight pile. Glued carpet with quality construction adhesive like PL2000, then stapled below. My staples were not stainless, no issues after 5 years. Bring along a socket wrench and drive and tighten after drilling pilot holes. 18V driver will do it but you want to drive straight in and you will have more control with socket drive vs, drill at higher speed. Use lock washers too. Glue and screw. You didn't mention the side steps, can change them with boat on trailer. I replaced the rusted steel with 2X8 PT after cutting out the old steel with a side cutter. Used roof shingles cut in strips as non slip. Glued and stapled too. Edited September 7, 2014 by Old Ironmaker
Fish Farmer Posted September 7, 2014 Report Posted September 7, 2014 Saw that many times John at 50 Pt, guy took his winch strap off before he got his boat to the water and he had a roller trailer, boat ended up on the ramp. Saw so many times, guys have their trailer to far in the water to load and have problems. If a guy has to take his shoes off, he's doing something wrong. I'd like to see him launching in Dec. My homemade slick loaders work great if you install them right. Stainless bolts counter sunk with locking nuts. I was selling them on Kijiji.
scugpg Posted September 7, 2014 Report Posted September 7, 2014 Need to be much more careful at the launch with the composite boards as the boat will slide off much easier!
NANUK Posted September 7, 2014 Report Posted September 7, 2014 Need to be much more careful at the launch with the composite boards as the boat will slide off much easier! No different than a roller trailer, loading the boat up on the trailer is a breeze with those slick boards.
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