Weak Transom?

[LucG]

Hey guys,

I need some advice regarding my transom. I'll give you a little background first. I bought this boat used last year, and cannot remember seeing this damage prior to purchasing it, or at all throughout the fishing season. When I bought the boat, I was told a transom saver was not necesary, so I did not rush out and buy one. After only a couple trips, I went out and purchased a transom saver cause I did not like the ammount of movement (of my outboard, 30hp Honda) I was seeing.

 

Now when I was preping the boat during the spring, I noticed the folowing damage. I am really not sure if it happened before I bought the boat or while I wasnt using a transom saver. It does not seem to have gotten worse since I noticed it, and I've had the boat out 4 times a week. Regardless, I'm just wondering if this is serious damage that should be fixed.

 

Thanks for any advice!

 

In this pic does the transom seem to be offset a little more than it should?

 

This is the damage I'm worried about.

 

Top view. You can see the transom slightly pulled away.

[porkpie]

If it is really noticeable play, then you should get moving on a repair. However, for sake of argument, the transom on one of the tin boats at our familys cottage flexes like a pool noodle, but it has a lite 2 stroke 10 horse on it, and its not so heavy. We will have to replace it by next year though. The up side is that transom repair, while taking a bit of time, is not rocket science, and you should be able to do the job yourself. Thats a fairly heavy motor for the size, if it were me, and the flex was quite noticeable, i'd pull it apart and fix it up!

[Lip-ripper]

is that a piece of wood wedged in there to make the motor sit higher? that might be contributing to the problem...

[LucG]

Yes, it is a 2x2, that was going to be a whole other post...lol What would this have been done for?

Edited July 12, 2011 by LucG

[fishnsled]

is that a piece of wood wedged in there to make the motor sit higher? that might be contributing to the problem...

 

 

My thoughts as well. In my old tinny for fun one day we tried sticking in a piece of wood to see how it would affect the performance of the boat. Gained about 3 mph but noticed it seemed to look like the transom was being stressed, pulled the wood out. This was with an old 2 stroke on a 14ft tinny and it wasn't sitting as high as your motor is. With the height of your motor (clamps seem to be right at the top of the transom) and the weight of the 4 stroke, it appears to have stressed (warped) the transom.

 

First, I'd take the boat in and have it repaired, might be a very serious problem if left unattended. Second, I'd get rid of the wood and get the motor sitting lower. 3rd, check the weight rating for the motor on the boat. The horsepower may be fine but you might be exceeding the motor weight rated for your boat. I'm certainly no expert at this and these are just my observations.

[Spiel]

I'd take the motor off and peen the rivets.

Then get a transom saver and hopefully you'll be good to go.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about the 2X2, though you may have to replace it from time to time if it's not treated (and I don't mean pressure treated!).

[jedimaster]

It was likely put on there to rais the motor height. The advantage is a bit better speed on the water as less of the motor in in the water reducing the drag as well it reduces you chances of hitting something by the two inches. The down side of course is the higher you motor it the more preasure it puts on the top of the transom. This can possibly lead to it bending outward.Generally if your going to raise the motor beyong the normal location its safest to do it with a jack plate. This also gives you the added benefit of more setback and this can also increase your holeshot and on plane stability as your boat is now X number of inches longer. Generally for tin boats that have enough oompf in the motor its best to just leave the motor in the standard position. But once you have issue getting on plane people start playing around with motor height etc....

[fishnsled]

Yes, it is a 2x2, that was going to be a whole other post...lol What would this have been done for?

 

A little bit of performance or is it a long shaft motor when a short shaft should have been used.

[Lip-ripper]

I'm not sure but I would remove it ASAP. That motor isn't mounted right when it's like that.

For sure that's contributing to the twist in the transom.

Perhaps the shaft length is wrong for the boat so the previous owner jimmied it??

[Fisherman]

I have the same scenario with the piece of wood. When I bought my Princecraft with the 25 Honda longshaft, the dealer added the piece of wood about 1 inch thick to get the motor to sit in the right place. My transom is still straight across after 15 years, I used a transom saver right from the start.

[Dutch]

Surprised no one has asked yet.....

 

What is the year of the boat?

What is the boat rated for motor-wise, the max HP rating should be on the capacity plate and the capacity plate MAY also have info on the max weight of the OB allowed for that craft.

 

Either way - I don't think it is about not using a transom saver. The piece of wood may have contributed somewhat, but depending on the age of the boat and the weight of those motors (looks like a 4-stroke) it could just be rot.

[Pigeontroller]

I quite often trailer my Lund around without the transom saver on...90 hp Yamaha, 365 lbs...There's alot more stress on the boat/transom while pounding over the water at 40 mph...I seriously doubt that if you have a problem its from not using the transom saver.

[Tybo]

Engine is to heavy.

The wood is use to level the engine when clamping it down.Besides that all it does is rot.

[solopaddler]

Engine is to heavy.

The wood is use to level the engine when clamping it down.Besides that all it does is rot.

 

 

Exactly. No way that wood is affecting anything.

 

In order to get proper performance with my 40hp tiller I had to raise it slightly. It's not actually resting on the lip of the transom exactly like your motor. Mine is bolted on though and not clamped, but don't think that'd make any difference.Been working flawlessly for over 2 seasons now.

 

I'll say this though...At first mine torqued a fair bit when I gunned the throttle.

 

Then I installed trim tabs and all my problems were gone. Much quicker and easier getting on plane and much more stability overall.

 

I believe Tybo is correct, the engine is probably too heavy for your boat.

Edited July 13, 2011 by solopaddler

[Fisherman]

I think the weak spot has been found, the motors not too heavy, it's the boat, it can't handle it. Some of the wood I've seen in transoms is pretty questionable, probably the cheapest grade the mfgrs could get away with.

[LucG]

First of all, the picture of my transom looks alot worse than it is. There allready is am original "bend" in the transom. It only seems to have bent back about 1/4".

 

The year of my boat and motor is 2008. The boat is rated for a 30hp, but I am unsure of its outboard weight restrictions, and the actual weight of my outboard. I do not have the ownsers manual. If I find a serial number, where can I find this info?

[bigbuck]

If it's an '08, why don't you contact LUND??? You may be able to get this repaired under warranty. I'm surprised nobody mentioned this. It's only 3 years old and to have a warped transom, not acceptable.

[Lip-ripper]

I'm not convinced that the piece of wood isn't affecting anything. If you clamp something onto a board near the edge, it has much less strength and much more flex than it does when you clamp it closer to the middle.

If you are going to bring it in for a Lund dealer to look at it for Warranty, I would pull that wood out first, they may claim the motor was installed improperly and void the warranty.

Just my 2 cents...

[LucG]

Theres obveously issues that need to be delt with, but in in the meantime, would it be a bad idea to continue using it? I would certainly keep a close eye on it...

 

Also, can anyone recommend someone in the North Bay area that repairs/rebuilds transoms on alluminium boats? What does this type of job usually cost?

[F_ast]

I'd be looking at the rating tag on the transom to find out if there is a call out for engine weight and hp. If there is just a call out spec for max hp, then call Lund right away. If there is both weight and hp, look up the engine weight specs on that motor and see make sure you are in compliance. Those Honda engines are bears. There are quite a few boats out there that have 2 stroke and 4 stoke ratings based on engine weight. For instance, my 06 Lund Outfitter 1750 ss calls out 90hp max or 435lb max engine weight and I beleive some of the Skeeter boats will list a max hp (2 stroke) at 150hp and max hp (4 stroke) at 90hp.

 

Lund has a great reputation for service, warranty and repair, however, I beleive their closes repair shop is in Manitoba.

 

Here is the lund boats canada site; http://www.allbrandsboatrepair.com/

[Roe Bag]

All too often I see boats being trailered with the outboards raised in the "out of water" position. Parallel to the boat and no transom saver. Transom savers aren't really necessary for smaller outboards provided you have sufficient ground clearance fot the skeg and prop. Transom savers came into being for extremely large outboards associated with fiberglass ski/bassboats. They are also required for very low slung trailers which don't afford proper ground clearance. Smaller outboards should be trailered in the verticle position. Otherwise the powerhead is bobbing up and down like a cork in the ocean constantly flexing the transom. The outboard goes into a teeter totter effect as the trailer bounces over the bumps in the road. I have trailered boats for some forty years. All 65 horsepower or less. Never have I had an issue with a transom even with an old wooden boat which had a severely weathered transom. Never have I needed a transom saver.

Currently I operate a 14' aluminium with a 25 Yamaha. The owners manual for the Yamaha clearly states that the engine should be in the vertical position (straight up and down off the back of the boat) when trailering. Otherwise damage to the transom can be incurred. Adjustments can be made to the trailer bunks/rollers and even the leaf spring shackles should you be concerned with possible skeg/prop damage when going over bumps.

It appears the damage to your boat may have been caused by improper trailering (motor in horizontal position) by the previous owner or perhaps you yourself. The only other possibility is the previous owner has been towing heavy skiers or tubers.

 

As for the piece of wood beneath the engine clamp, it makes little sense to me. If you have a twenty inch transom then a long shaft engine would have the cavitation plate land approximately 1" below the bottom of the boat. Raising it as such will cause cooling problems for the engine because once the boat is up on plane, the water pick up (located on the underside of the cavitation plate) will essentially be out of the water and sucking air. If you have a 15" transom and mount a longshaft (20") then you would have to raise it at the clamp some 5 inches.

The only issue with mounting an outboard is in making certain it is centered exactly, otherwise you will have steering issues.

Best advice I can offer is get it to a Lund Dealer for an assessment of the damage. Seek out his advice on probable cause and get an estimate.

Edited July 14, 2011 by Roe Bag

[LucG]

I'd be looking at the rating tag on the transom to find out if there is a call out for engine weight and hp. If there is just a call out spec for max hp, then call Lund right away. If there is both weight and hp, look up the engine weight specs on that motor and see make sure you are in compliance. Those Honda engines are bears. There are quite a few boats out there that have 2 stroke and 4 stoke ratings based on engine weight. For instance, my 06 Lund Outfitter 1750 ss calls out 90hp max or 435lb max engine weight and I beleive some of the Skeeter boats will list a max hp (2 stroke) at 150hp and max hp (4 stroke) at 90hp.

 

Lund has a great reputation for service, warranty and repair, however, I beleive their closes repair shop is in Manitoba.

 

Here is the lund boats canada site; http://www.allbrandsboatrepair.com/

 

I've looked everywhere for a weight rating with no luck. All I can find is a max HP rating. I emailed Lund and havent got any reply yet. I've called 6 different Lund dealers across Ontario and none of them can tell me with the weight rating, all they know is the HP rating. I will try allbrandboatrepair.com and see if they can help. The engine is a 2008 Honda 30HP and weighs 72.5 kgs(160 lbs). My boat is a Lund WC 16 DLX.

[LucG]

All too often I see boats being trailered with the outboards raised in the "out of water" position. Parallel to the boat and no transom saver. Transom savers aren't really necessary for smaller outboards provided you have sufficient ground clearance fot the skeg and prop. Transom savers came into being for extremely large outboards associated with fiberglass ski/bassboats. They are also required for very low slung trailers which don't afford proper ground clearance. Smaller outboards should be trailered in the verticle position. Otherwise the powerhead is bobbing up and down like a cork in the ocean constantly flexing the transom. The outboard goes into a teeter totter effect as the trailer bounces over the bumps in the road. I have trailered boats for some forty years. All 65 horsepower or less. Never have I had an issue with a transom even with an old wooden boat which had a severely weathered transom. Never have I needed a transom saver.

Currently I operate a 14' aluminium with a 25 Yamaha. The owners manual for the Yamaha clearly states that the engine should be in the vertical position (straight up and down off the back of the boat) when trailering. Otherwise damage to the transom can be incurred. Adjustments can be made to the trailer bunks/rollers and even the leaf spring shackles should you be concerned with possible skeg/prop damage when going over bumps.

It appears the damage to your boat may have been caused by improper trailering (motor in horizontal position) by the previous owner or perhaps you yourself. The only other possibility is the previous owner has been towing heavy skiers or tubers.

 

As for the piece of wood beneath the engine clamp, it makes little sense to me. If you have a twenty inch transom then a long shaft engine would have the cavitation plate land approximately 1" below the bottom of the boat. Raising it as such will cause cooling problems for the engine because once the boat is up on plane, the water pick up (located on the underside of the cavitation plate) will essentially be out of the water and sucking air. If you have a 15" transom and mount a longshaft (20") then you would have to raise it at the clamp some 5 inches.

The only issue with mounting an outboard is in making certain it is centered exactly, otherwise you will have steering issues.

Best advice I can offer is get it to a Lund Dealer for an assessment of the damage. Seek out his advice on probable cause and get an estimate.

 

What you said makes alot of sense. Maybe I should remove the transom saver, looks like it might be doing more harm then none.

 

I do have a 20" transom.

[Fisherpete]

I don't agree with this Roebag... today's engines, especially the 4 stroke ones, are quite a bit heavier than the previous generation of 2 strokes. This extra weight definately places extra stress on the transom of a boat while trailering. Trust me, I know first hand. I had a Tracker (2005) that sustained damage after only two years to the transom area and to the supports that connect the transom to the floor. I always trailered it with the outboard in the down position 100% of the time. My outboard is a 30HP Honda 4 stroke that weighs 175 pounds... the whole boat (16' Tracker tinny) only weighed 330! That's a lot of weight on the last few feet of the boat (which was rated for up to a 40!)

 

On my new boat, a 16' Legend, to avoid a repeat of the Tracker disaster, I bought a transom saver... the whole point of the transom saver is to transmit some of that weight downwards into the trailer frame when you hit bumps, rather than placing that stress on the transom.

 

Yes Trackers are not the best boats... and that may have contributed. I also think that specific boat should have been rated for a 30, not a 40... Maybe even only a 25 if it is a 4 stroke...

And yes if you have a two stroke on a well built boat like a Lund, Legend, etc. you should be fine...

But for the $50-100 that a transom saver costs, it is well worth it to add in my opinion, especially if you run a 4 stroke.

(I see a Honda 4 stroke in his pics above)

Edited July 14, 2011 by Fisherpete

[LucG]

In my very short experience trailering my boat, I noticed a huge difference when I added the transom saver. The motor would bounce quite a bit without the transom saver, and when I started using it, it seemed solid like a rock. Even with the transom saver on, the motor is not very horizontal. If anything, its more vertical than horizontal. I'll post pics of how I've been trailering it shortly...