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obd reader (car scanner)


shadowfly

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Hey guys I'm having problem with my car, the check engine light keeps popping up after fixing what was diagnosed O2 sensor

 

however Im looking to buy my own OBD reader (car scanner) with so many brands out there don't know what to buy that's decent enough and won't break the bank. not looking to spend $200 i know a $100 scanner wont' do what a $8000 snap on scanner does. I see allot on kijiji for $40 some for $80

 

what should i look for when buying one and what to avoid (models or brands)?

thanks in advanced

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It's one thing to read the code but another to figure what caused it to happen.

A lean O2 code can mean a few things. Of course it could actually be a contaminated O2 but also the system could be running lean due to several factors. Vacuum leaks, plugged injector, mass air sensor,some other sensors, misfire can also cause the code.

Unless you have some experience, a good multimeter and along with some manuals you could easily end up spending more than a good service shop could do the repair for you.

The more expensive scanners can read the data going into and out of the system which a code scanner cannot.

This allows an experienced guy to often figure a problem quickly.

 

On the other hand, you won't learn anything unless you try either.

Just throwing this at you from a voice with a little experience.

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Found this little tool works well on a number of things including reading and clearing codes:

 

http://www.scangauge.com/

 

In accordance with what Bernie said above, check a few internet sites specific to your vehicle for similar to vehicle problems.

 

For instance, on Toyota Corollas 2003- 2007, an easy to replace $7.00 gasket on the throttle body fixes a 'running lean' code. There might be a Tech Service Bulletin available - ECU software update etc. - that will solve your problem.

 

Mean no disrespect to anyone, but have seen no evidence of this myth that 'some parts dealers will scan your codes for free'.?

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I ask my good customers to stop by if they call me with a check engine light.

I will do a quick scan to find out what it is and let them know how we should proceed.

I do not charge for that.

It puts their mind at ease over it and we usually make an appointment to do the repair.

Good customer relations goes a long way.

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I have never been charged by my mechanic of 15 years either for a code. Just as Bernie said he treats people right and you treat him right you all come out ahead. You got to remember that if your mechanic knows he gets all of your work he will treat you fairly and you know the job is done right or if it has an issue you are his top priority. Forget the code scanner and strike up a relationship with a local mechanic it will be a better investment in the long run.

 

 

Art

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PartSource scans for free. It is part of their customer service. Others may do it but I KNOW that PS does. Once you know what the code is, then you can start to diagnose it. If you are good at the art of wren-ching you could probably figure it out with the help of the www if it is a fairly common problem with your vehicle. I wouldn't waste my money on a cheap reader when I can get the code checked for free. Good luck.

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I have never been charged by my mechanic of 15 years either for a code. Just as Bernie said he treats people right and you treat him right you all come out ahead. You got to remember that if your mechanic knows he gets all of your work he will treat you fairly and you know the job is done right or if it has an issue you are his top priority. Forget the code scanner and strike up a relationship with a local mechanic it will be a better investment in the long run.

 

 

Art

 

Save your $$$ and do it yourself. I haven't had a mechanic touch my car since I was 15. Cars and trucks aren't as complicated as people think. Might be a bit daunting at first, but a shop manual and a little common sense go a long way.

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thanks for all the replies and suggestions guys, as for the fact of free scanning i haven't seen that around , called up 3 places that i know and min price was $40, along side a good multimeter i want to invest in a car scanner and wrench the problems my self, some jobs i can take care off and some jobs are left for the mechanic, i agree with trusting your mechanic takes you a long way, but most of the time it's not the mechanic i trust that ends up working on it. once again thanks for replies guys,

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sorry irishfield, i buy at petrol Canada or Esso and it's a 2000 ford focus zx3 hatchback with 330K funny about the gas i changed the O2 sensor 3 weeks ago ran the car with high octane fuel, the check engine went away, after 1 week of changing the sensor filled up the car with regular drove about half of tank, took it for drive to Burlington and check engine came on. damn i can't afford to fill up on high octane there must be another problem causing it, whats wrong with the shell gas?

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From the day my '98 GMC Sierra was new... as soon as you put a tank of Shell in it the check engine light would come on. Go fill up anywhere else and after about a 1/4 tank the light would go back out. Is how I knew when the kids used the truck without asking as the only station left in town is a Shell. Still does it to this day and the truck is now 13 years old.

 

Being a 2000..... I suspect your O2 sensor is being set off by the ethynol in the regular fuel.

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The Innova 3100 is a decent code reader, but will set you back about $200. The reader comes with a manual with all the generic codes, but you would also need to purchase a shop manual for your Focus to get a list of all your manufactures codes as well.

 

You said it was diagnosed as the O2 Sensor, my question is which one. Your Focus has 2. A Pre Converter sensor and a Post Converter sensor. The Pre Converter sensor is very important as it interacts with PCM (Power Train Control Module/computer) and will adjust fuel mixture according to the reading it takes. So a bad or dirty Pre Converter sensor can lead to poor performance, poor gas mileage and can even lead to more serious problems such as polluting you converter if it causes a rich fuel mixture for a extended period of time. Converters are an expensive item to replace.

 

The Post Converter sensor doesn't interact with the PCM and has no bearing on the cars performance. It is there to just measure the cars emissions and you can have a case where the emission are actually ok but the sensor is dirty or not functioning properly. Nothing to worry a lot about other than the damn Engine Light coming on all the time.

 

As for O2 sensor error codes, there are many different codes and depending which code it's displaying, helps a person to diagnose if it's a problem further up the system (such as Bernie mentioned earlier) or whether the problem is with the sensor it's self.

 

This said, if you have or are capable of developing a good understanding of power train control systems, a code reader can pay for it's self in a short time. Most shops charge $75 just for a scan and then there's the cost of the shop doing the repair as well, which can be considerably more than diagnosing and replacing the part yourself. But you better have a good understanding of how things work and what you are doing.

Edited by Old Man
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i bought the innova 3100 myself from crappy tire for 100$ on sale, it's great to read engine codes and what not, and got my golf running like it should after a sensor change, and a throttle body cleaning. having it handy is great compared to going to a shop and having to pay them to read the codes once (since it would have been around the same, plus teh km's to get to said shop).

if you want to get more advanced and be able to tune the car via the computer, you can get a program such as the ross tech system, it is a program you install on a laptop, and it comes with a cable to attach the computer to your car.

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I'm able to read the codes on my 2001 Dakota just by turning the key three times in quick succession. Any recorded codes are displayed in the odometer window. Are there not many vehicles that provide that info?

 

My engine light has been on for awhile, throwing codes P-442 & P-455, both relating to a leak in my Evap system. My mechanic has assured me it has absolutely no bearing on the truck's performance, but it wouldn't pass an emission test right now (I have a year before I need one). Unhooking the battery clears the code for a few days, but it always comes back. A loose gas cap will often trigger the same type of code.

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