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Posted

Where I live, I'm the only centerpin fisherman and even float setup fisherman I've seen. Even the guides I know don't ever see any. Kinda of weird I thought since John Milner makes his famous pins just 20 mins away from me.

 

So fly fishing is the dominant method here. Fly baits are the usual for small trout, bigger ones like bull trout streamers and clousers are the top flies.

 

For float fishing I use roe when allowed though haven't had much luck on it. So I float streamers, clousers, bucktails and wolly buggers with good success for Bull Trout. Tried many others like Steelhead jigs but they haven't worked well for me. Pink worms really call the Cutthroats.

Sounds like the boys out there are traditional fly fisherman. Seems like a lot of that is going around these days even here in the Huron tribs I fish. I see more and more guys walking the river lately with fly rods in hand. I also use a center pin and offer up flies to the steel here but slightly different patterns mostly in black or purple stonefly. Ive been debating for awhile now to go with the fly rod but its a big step and its going to take some major commitment.

Posted

Limited experience with Fluoro, Vanish only and only 8-10#, allegedly the right thing to do under tough, clear water conditions. My personal results never showed it to be a noticeable improvement, on tough days fishing was tough no matter what you did.

 

Fishing Lake Erie it got beat up by Zebra mussels, but so did everything else. Leader I used were steel, twist weld, never had an issue with it, east to make up even in the boat, as long as the wind wasn`t howling. Budget leaders usually have poor quality components = lost fish-lures.

Posted

I used the 6lb P-line flourocarbon for a Main line, on my light action spinning gear when spring fishing for Specs.

It was flawless in one application....low stretch.

Hook sets were perfect on long casts, and trolling, and In truth I did notice a significant difference.

BUT....I had serious issues with memory

It prcatically coiled off the reel when it was cold.

Since then(3 years ago) they seem to have fixed that issue, as its been good to me.

 

I can't say I have a distain for Mono, but given the choice...in this specific application for now I'll stick with P-line.

Posted

I used the 6lb P-line flourocarbon for a Main line, on my light action spinning gear when spring fishing for Specs.

It was flawless in one application....low stretch.

Hook sets were perfect on long casts, and trolling, and In truth I did notice a significant difference.

BUT....I had serious issues with memory

It prcatically coiled off the reel when it was cold.

Since then(3 years ago) they seem to have fixed that issue, as its been good to me.

 

I can't say I have a distain for Mono, but given the choice...in this specific application for now I'll stick with P-line.

 

When you put new flouro on your reel take off the spool and run it under hot water for a few mins I have never done it but my bass tourny partner does and it work great for him no explosions that I have seen using straight 10 trilene flouro give it a shot can't hurt nothing.He got the tip from a tackle wholesaler and bass pro.

Guest blairwelsh
Posted (edited)

*SMILES*

Edited by SecretSpot
Posted

I guess all of the bass guys that fish smallies on zebra mussel infested Lake Erie don't have a clue what they are doing when they use flouro for it's superior abrasion resistance.

 

Pretty much.

 

Just because everyone is on the bandwagon doesn't make it right.

 

 

i dont know if we are all comparing apples to apples when it comes to fluoro here because I am in agreement with SRT8. maybe you guys are talking about fluoro mainline used as leader material? i only have experience with seaguar fluoro leader material in 8, 15, 50, 65, 130 and 200lb and there's just no comparison between it and mono when it comes to taking a beating from teeth, rocks or zebra mussels - the fluoro is hands down superior. i could care less about the visibility issue, the durability wins for me.

 

Apples and oranges for sure. No way no how the lighter pound test fluoro's are as abrasion resistant as the heavy stuff used for musky leaders.

Posted

Lets see you are having problems with your split shot fraying flouro.

 

Shouldn't you look at the type of split shot and your method of pinching your shot.

 

With poppers for smallies a short 2ft flouro leader will help keep the nose pointed downward without sinking allowing you to use your bait just a little more aggressively and a little rougher water.

Posted

Lets see you are having problems with your split shot fraying flouro.

 

Shouldn't you look at the type of split shot and your method of pinching your shot.

 

 

 

I addressed this issue many years ago but still, if you're moving shot around on your line you'll bruise it. The question is how much.

 

The softest shot on the market is plain old Water Gremlin. Much softer than the round shot marketed to the steelheading fraternity.

 

My only issue with the round gremlin shot is its brightness.

 

Soak it in liquid drano for a bit and it turns jet black.

Posted

Apples and oranges for sure. No way no how the lighter pound test fluoro's are as abrasion resistant as the heavy stuff used for musky leaders.

 

I also use stuff as light as 8, 15lb for trout trolling and ice fishing and it's also superior to mono.

 

I don't however, have any experience with the really light stuff steelheaders would use.

Posted

Yes that's what I use and being very careful to pinching the front shut and keeping the leader to the back. Also adjust shot inline with leader.

 

And shame of all shames I use winged slit shot because my test were inconclusive on the spinning issue and losing that a justifiability didn't compensate.

Posted

I also use stuff as light as 8, 15lb for trout trolling and ice fishing and it's also superior to mono.

 

I don't however, have any experience with the really light stuff steelheaders would use.

Raf,

That seems to be the real division point between yea and nea. Seems the heavier stuff is rock solid but the lighter steelhead stuff doesn't have such a good following. Always boils down to personal preference.

Me, I had a great fall season landing over 60 bows.High percentage of those fish were caught on,you guessed it,fluoro. Never had a brake off due to nics and abrasions,why..Cause I check my tippets for wear and tear between fish and or rubs on boulders and sometimes timber. However,I did loose two fish.The first was a big fresh rainbow. Took my fly and belined it straight into the timber on the other side of the river. I tried to slow him down to no avail,broke me off at the knot. Second fish same thing exept this time it went aerial right before the timber and landed on the other side of the downed tree and then threaded its way back under back into the pool and broke my main line 8lb suffix mono...go figure !

So really this is all personal preference going on here. I tried fluoro,it works for me only cause I like the 6lb 4x fine diameter. I realize I can pull out my Maxima and have that same diameter but I would be reducing to 3lb to 4lb to get that so this double edged sword always seems to be the kicker.

Posted (edited)

just to be clear.. this is what i am talking about. typically a 25 yd spool that costs a fair bit. i still think some of you are talking about using fluoro mainline (which i've found to be worthless) as leader material which is a different animal than leader specific material.

 

mpi_fc_leader.jpg

Edited by Raf
Posted

just to be clear.. this is what i am talking about. typically a 25 yd spool that costs a fair bit. i still think some of you are talking about using fluoro mainline as leader materialbwhich is different animal than leader material.

 

mpi_fc_leader.jpg

 

Some guys are Raf,

Some are loading up there spools,some guys are using a section at the end of there main line for casting baits and others like myself are using the lighter stuff like like Frog Hair and Scientific Angler for fly fishing and float fishing...

Posted

just to be clear.. this is what i am talking about. typically a 25 yd spool that costs a fair bit. i still think some of you are talking about using fluoro mainline (which i've found to be worthless) as leader material which is a different animal than leader specific material.

 

mpi_fc_leader.jpg

Raf,What are you using it for ?? I mean what type of fishing ?

Posted

Limited experience with Fluoro, Vanish only and only 8-10#, allegedly the right thing to do under tough, clear water conditions.

I remember my first experiences with Vanish. The only thing that 'Vanished' were about 90 percent of the fish I hooked. I couldn't strip that crap off my reel fast enough.

Posted

the 8-15-20lb i use for ice fishing lakers, jigging walleye in the spring, long lines and dipsys for trout in the spring.

 

the heavier stuff for pike & musky.

Posted

the 8-15-20lb i use for ice fishing lakers, jigging walleye in the spring, long lines and dipsys for trout in the spring.

 

the heavier stuff for pike & musky.

Ok,now I remember,you did mention that up in the thread somewhere already,sorry. So once again the heavier application is the ticket then. This really seems to be the pattern here. Like you said though,your not spooling up with the stuff but rather using a section at the end of your main line...

Posted (edited)

I'll second Berkley Vanish as garbage....way to many break offs, memory issues, and knot strength was a huge issue.

Thats what got me to try the P-line in the first place, and I'm talking Main line.

 

But specificly light spinning tackle.

When I was a Mono guy I'd use 4lb test on my Spring Algonquin trips, but as fate would have it, the day before I left I went to spool up, and the lowest test available was 6lb so I gave it a whirl....we knocked 'em dead so My confidence was re-established on 6lb.

 

But like I said it had significant memory issues in the cold, however that seems to have been addressed as since then I've had no issues.

I can't say 've had any abrasion issues however, like Chris I am also pretty anal about nicks...

I regularily check, and re-tie at the slightest imperfection.

 

However that being said....

I agree that Flouro in lighter lb tests is NOT more abrassion resistant.

The way I'm fishing this line...I'm in the wood, or on the edge constantly, and I have found that I am re-tieing more often.

 

I have not had a break off to date with the stuff, but I do beleive it to scratch easier if that makes sense????

It simply gets dinged up easier, but I honestly have no idea if its strength is compramised more so then Mono, as I simply re-tie before I find out?

 

All I do know is the hook sets are better at a distance, and I beleive the overall strength to be be better.

And in clear spring waters of Algonquin, I find the line to be stellar.

 

In a pinch I've used it as Tippet on the Fly rod, but I can't say that i've seen any pro's or cons?

Edited by Cookslav
Posted

Hey Guys, thanks for all the responses. You've given me lots to think about.

 

I've been using Seaguar Fluorocarbon Leader Material, 130# test. Use it only for leaders when pike fishing. I've never used fluorocarbon line and don't intend to, especially after reading your posts on this thread.

 

I've used it for 6 years without a mishap. Probably my weakest point is in crimping the double barrel sleeves. I try to be easy on it, but usually go with an extra squeeze before attaching the lure.

 

Thanks,

TG

Posted

I remember my first experiences with Vanish. The only thing that 'Vanished' were about 90 percent of the fish I hooked. I couldn't strip that crap off my reel fast enough.

 

I really never had those problems with it, but if I felt the slightest nick in my line I would cut it and retie. A keeper sometimes could mean money or not, I always hated losing fish.

Posted

I've been filling my spinning reels with Seaguar Floro for a couple of years. I really like it.

Now, many of you guys have a reel for each and every application you use. I have two spinning reels that get the lion's share of use, for any and all applications.

I use the same reel to jig Pickereyes as I do for jiggin Whities on Simcoe. So far the line has been flawless. I find it easy to spool, easy tie knots and I also like the fact that it stretches less and makes my hook sets in deep Whitie land solid.

Heck, two winters ago, I used it up at Waynes place, sitting outside in minus 32 degree weather (not including wind chill) and it was flawless. Never had a problem with it.

Yah, it's more expensive than mono, but to me it's worth it... to some of you guys who carry multiple rods, it can get scarey expensive.

I am not a fan of braid and I am not a fan of tying leaders as that time is time that I should be fishing, not tying.

No, I don't fish spotted carp (Trout) so I can't speak from that perspective, but I do like the Floro I have used so far.

HH

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