Motor winterizing question

[Cosmos]

Hi guys,

 

Not so far ago i bought my first boat with 9.9 hp 2-stroke suzuki(1986). I am planning to do one more fishing trip and winterize the boat after that.

I will put motor in the basement. I would like to know what needs to be done to it?

I know that i have to burn all gasoline, but other than that what else needs to be done?

 

Thanks for advise guys.

[scugpg]

Hi guys,

 

Not so far ago i bought my first boat with 9.9 hp 2-stroke suzuki(1986). I am planning to do one more fishing trip and winterize the boat after that.

I will put motor in the basement. I would like to know what needs to be done to it?

I know that i have to burn all gasoline, but other than that what else needs to be done?

 

Thanks for advise guys.

 

I'm interested to know as well. Except looking for the 4-stroke version

[Pigeontroller]

Usually change the gear oil in the lower unit, if the motor will be stored outside it prevents any water in the lower unit from freezing. Do it anyway, verify the old oil is not contaminated with water(bad seal)(remove prop, check for monofiliment line that can ruin prop seal)

 

While running, spray fogging oil into the carbs through the air intakes till the motor stalls, this lubricates the cylinders and crankcase for storage.

 

If not draining all fuel, add fuel stabilizer while running to ensure it gets into the engine.

[Pigeontroller]

Most people aren't fogging their 4 strokes, but you can add some fogging oil to the cylinders(not too much)

 

Lower unit oil if being stored in below frezzing temps is VERY IMPORTANT, you don't want a cracked lower unit! Do it anyway and check for H2O!

 

Fuel stabilizer! You should be using it year round anyway! Fuel goes bad in as little as 2 weeks!

 

And of course its not nessasary for winterizing but changing the oil and oil filter in a 4 stroke is a nice thing to do before it sits for months.

[ld17]

I do all the tips everyone has said but I've heard that storing it inside (basement) is worse than storing it outside. Something to do with the hot temps and dry air can cause seals to dry up and moisture to build up in the engine that could cause corrosion. If you have a shed or garage I would leave it in there. That's what I do and my motor is fine.

[4x4bassin]

I do all the tips everyone has said but I've heard that storing it inside (basement) is worse than storing it outside. Something to do with the hot temps and dry air can cause seals to dry up and moisture to build up in the engine that could cause corrosion. If you have a shed or garage I would leave it in there. That's what I do and my motor is fine.

I have heard the same thing , mine stays in the garage with no problems.

[DanD]

For these small motors that are coming off the back of the boat anyways; do all of the regular servicing, as like what has been said.

Then if it is going in the house; go get one of those large vacuum sealer bags; where you use a vacuum cleaner to suck the air out. The ones they use for things like big bed comforters. My wife has a couple that she got at home sense or some place like that and I know a 9.9 would fit inside it.

No moisture worries and the wife won’t be complaining of gas & oil smells, in the basement.

 

Dan.

[NBR]

For these small motors that are coming off the back of the boat anyways; do all of the regular servicing, as like what has been said.

Then if it is going in the house; go get one of those large vacuum sealer bags; where you use a vacuum cleaner to suck the air out. The ones they use for things like big bed comforters. My wife has a couple that she got at home sense or some place like that and I know a 9.9 would fit inside it.

No moisture worries and the wife won’t be complaining of gas & oil smells, in the basement.

 

Dan.

 

I worked for the company that makes most of the seals for Merc and OMC for 35 years. Leaving the motor outside has nothing to do with seals aging nor do inside temperatures (unless they get over 100C). I winterize my motore exactly the way a Mercury engineer does his, fill the gas tanks, change lower unit oil, lube all points necessary, fog the engine, make sure I run the engine long enough for the stabil to be in the enginemake sure the batteries are fully charged and have proper water levels ( I usually recharge every month or so during winter, for the engine, remove the spark plugs and put a tiny amount of engine fog in each cylinder. Now since I can't get anything but gasohol I put in Marine Stabil. In the spring I pull the prop, check for fish line and lube the spline charge the batteries and start it up with the muffs. This usually is on the second crank.

[Cosmos]

Usually change the gear oil in the lower unit, if the motor will be stored outside it prevents any water in the lower unit from freezing. Do it anyway, verify the old oil is not contaminated with water(bad seal)(remove prop, check for monofiliment line that can ruin prop seal)

 

While running, spray fogging oil into the carbs through the air intakes till the motor stalls, this lubricates the cylinders and crankcase for storage.

 

If not draining all fuel, add fuel stabilizer while running to ensure it gets into the engine.

 

 

I changed gear oil last month, since that I was out twice. Do I still need to change it?

If basement is not a good place i can keep it in garage. I was thinking that basement is better place.

Where can i get this fogging oil, that is the name for it?

How to put it properly???

 

Thanks,

[Tootsie II]

Hi guys,

 

Not so far ago i bought my first boat with 9.9 hp 2-stroke suzuki(1986). I am planning to do one more fishing trip and winterize the boat after that.

I will put motor in the basement. I would like to know what needs to be done to it?

I know that i have to burn all gasoline, but other than that what else needs to be done?

 

Thanks for advise guys.

 

Different motors sometimes require different methods. Older 2 strokes like my 1971 - 20hp Johnson require that you burn any remaining fuel out of the engine and then spray fogging oil into the cylinders ( remove plugs to do it) and carb. Crank the motor a bit to get the oil to cover the cylinder walls.

 

Newer motors require that you burn fuel in the system with fuel conditioner in it and leave it in the carburation system. You still fog the cylinders. You should always change the bottom end lube at the end of the season. My motors have been fine stored in an unheated garage.

[Cosmos]

Different motors sometimes require different methods. Older 2 strokes like my 1971 - 20hp Johnson require that you burn any remaining fuel out of the engine and then spray fogging oil into the cylinders ( remove plugs to do it) and carb. Crank the motor a bit to get the oil to cover the cylinder walls.

 

Newer motors require that you burn fuel in the system with fuel conditioner in it and leave it in the carburation system. You still fog the cylinders. You should always change the bottom end lube at the end of the season. My motors have been fine stored in an unheated garage.

 

 

Ok, thanks - i will change gear oil.

[Garnet]

For outside storage I don't like running engine and fogging because it leaves water in the impeller. I remove plugs and leave in gear. Spin the prop with foot and fog cylinders.

 

For boats with pressure gauges pull hose and let water drain.

 

And Rv antifreeze in livewells.

[John Bacon]

I had a 1993 Suzuki 55hp. It had screws on the carburators that allowed me to drain the fuel from the carbs. Yours may have these as well.

 

May be too late now but I recommend putting stabalizer in the fuel before you are ready to winterize so that any fuel in the lines, carb, etc. will contain stabilizer. As already mentioned, changed to lower end oil, fog the motor, and add proper grease to all of the grease nipples. Checking the plugs is a good idea too.

[Bernie]

Spraying fogging oil into the spark plug holes does little to protect a two stroke.

Most of the moving parts you need to protect are below the piston.

In most two stroke engines the fuel/oil mixture is fed to the combustion chamber from the crankcase(below the piston). This mix lubricates the crankshaft bearings, the rod bearings and the cylinder walls.

The fogging oil, which stays there, unlike regular oil, is designed to be sprayed into the carburetor while the engine is running to coat these bearings and cylinder walls.

Putting oil in through the plug hole isn't able to do this.

[Sinker]

I've never fogged a motor in my life.

 

My outboard gets seafoam in most tanks of fuel all season long and I change the lower unit oil couple times a season. I run the hell out of it from end of march, until I'm breaking ice in december. Usually twice a week at least. I change the plugs every couple years, and have the lower unit pressure tested every couple seasons.

 

Maybe I'm just lucky, but you guys seem to spend way too much time/money winterizing your motors. You think just because its sitting for a couple months its all of a sudden going to stop working or some thing?? I don't get it???

 

s.

[irishfield]

I hear ya Shayne.. but most of these guys put them away for 7 months + ! lol

[Bernie]

There are some that only hit the water once every couple years.

The most important thing to use is fuel stabilizers.

But I have seen the damage to engines that rust has developed internally. So I fog my engines.

Like Wayne said in another thread, they are too darn expensive to not do properly.

[Big Skeet™]

What's the right way to winterize the lower unit? I have a manual pump and this will be the first time doing it myself? I'll also check utube but any advice or technique will do.

[irishfield]

Have a peek here...

 

http://www.ofncommunity.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=48338

 

Positon bucket... tote trays work the best.. and pull the lower screw first and then the upper vent screw. First bit of oil coming out.. rub it between your fingers to feel for metal "grit". If your are lucky.. it still looks just like the stuff you are putting back in.. if it's milky, you have seals to get changed before proceeding. If it's not milky.. let it drain completely and then refill from the bottom until it comes out the upper vent. I always like to "waste" at least 4 pumps of fluid out the vent hole to flush any suspended crap.

Edited November 16, 2010 by irishfield

[Billy Bob]

Since Big Game Hunting starts this Saturday I winterized my outboard yesterday.......draining the lower unit about 1/2 teaspoon of water came out first then all nice and good looking oil....so I will have to have a pressure test on my outboard next spring....no big deal but after 25 years I sure the seals are a bit worn.

 

To fog my motor is a real pain through the carbs so I have done it by removing the spark plugs for about 22 years out of the 25 I have had it with very good results. However, I do disconnect the fuel line and run the gas out on my last trip out....with Johnson's VRO system the computer recognizes the fuel running out and it then adds additional oil to the motor which helps store the motor. But I still use a fog in the cylinders.

 

I also grease every zerk fitting on the motor, clean the steering arm and light regrease that too. By regreasing all the zerk fittings you push out a LOT of moisture/water from the wear points of the motors steering and tilting areas.

 

One other think I use to do when I stored my boat in someones barn was to actually add small bag (plastic bag with holes cut in it) of moth balls under the motor cover and in various places within the boat to keep mice out......my cousin had a mouse completely ruin his IO on his boat when mice packed, believe it or not bird seed he also had stored in his boat garage at the lake. They packed it into all the water cooling ports in the motor.

 

Also remove the prop and check for fishing line and grease the prop shaft and replace the prop with a new stainless steel cotter pin....DO NOT use a aluminum one.

 

Bob

[ld17]

here is a quick video of me fogging my 4 stroke outboard. Remember to torque your plugs to proper specs when your done.

Edited November 16, 2010 by LD17

[Cosmos]

Hey guys,

 

Thanks for replying - i am learning a lot from You.

 

Could you let me know where can i get fogging oil and that is the name for it?

What kind of grease are you using? Again, where i can buy it?

 

I am planning to go fishing maybe couple more times. Do i need to put fuel stabilizer, if so - where to buy it?

 

Thank you again and again

Edited November 16, 2010 by Cosmos

[Billy Bob]

Hey guys,

 

Thanks for replying - i am learning a lot from You.

 

Could you let me know where can i get fogging oil and that is the name for it?

What kind of grease are you using? Again, where i can buy it?

 

I am planning to go fishing maybe couple more times. Do i need to put fuel stabilizer, if so - where to buy it?

 

Thank you again and again

 

Fogging oil can be purchase at any marine dealer near you or probably a auto parts store (might be cheaper there)...call around....it beats driving around...

 

Grease....do you mean for any zerk fittings like I previously mentioned ? If so, again any auto parts store...just get chassis lube, it comes in a tube but you'll need a grease gun to apply it. Or you can get the small tubes and gun kit...

 

Fuel stabilizer is a good thing to add when you think this may be your last or next to last trip out.....this way the stabilizer definitely gets into the carbs.....I ALWAYS use it when I think this might be one of my last trips out for the season....then top off the gas tanks and add some more fuel stabilizer according to how much more gas you added to the tanks....this is always best to store the tanks FULL so no condensation or moisture builds up in the tank.

[Bernie]

However, I do disconnect the fuel line and run the gas out on my last trip out....with Johnson's VRO system the computer recognizes the fuel running out and it then adds additional oil to the motor which helps store the motor.

 

Bob, the VRO system is strictly mechanical. Works from crankcase pulses to run the pump. The amount of pulses regulates the flow.

The only sensor(not computer controlled) is if the oil flow stops it turns on a warning buzzer.

Low fuel flow does not increase oil flow.

 

Just thought you would like to know.

[Jer]

Bob, the VRO system is strictly mechanical. Works from crankcase pulses to run the pump. The amount of pulses regulates the flow.

The only sensor(not computer controlled) is if the oil flow stops it turns on a warning buzzer.

Low fuel flow does not increase oil flow.

 

Just thought you would like to know.

 

 

Although not computer controlled, it will provide a richer mix as it runs out of fuel as the the pump will continue to pump oil until the motor stalls.