irishfield Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 (edited) Last year I came to the conclusion that if I wanted to succesfully fish the back lakes I needed a boat... as drifting the airplane and casting from a float bow is just not productive.. and at times a tad dangerous. Picked up a 12' square back Sportspal last fall and did a test flight with it strapped down tight before winter came. Found things flew the same, with the canoe having little or no effect on flight characteristics. So I thought about it all winter. Most back lakes are so grown in I can't get to shore to unload.. reload a canoe and generally end up anchored in a small bay somewhere. There is no way to load and strap down a canoe when on the water... so when there's a will, there is usually a way. Got my last customer out of here on Wednesday and spent the last three days putting together, from my head, a canoe loader/unloader. I knew pretty much what and how I wanted to do it.. with some pivot brackets and telescopic tubes. The biggest hurdle was how to hook onto the canoe and after a trip to the "thinking" room, it dawned on me what to do..... and that's where the Purists might wanna stop viewing this thread and hit the back button!! lol Yep.. why not just cut holes for the tubes... Pivot bracets taking shape. First test flip before drilling any holes in the float decks or airplane. Flipped back down and knowing it's going to work.. time to commit! After a few flips and getting the pivot brackets bolted down. Time to positively locate the boat on the telescopic tubes so every flip is the same. Reinforced the cut outs in the canoe. Installed a pair of 6 rod holders under the seats. This way I can carry everything IN the boat that I need...ready to fish. Paddles, rods, two life jackets and safety kit in the bow. Just grab a tackle box and go fish.. All pivot and lock pins are aircraft mil spec quick pins and retainer chains so I don't drop any in the lake. These are also slick for your power ice augers lads! Note once it's flipped up.. the rod holders are upright = rods don't fall out! You can't miss me... if you see me wave... wave real hard if it appears I haven't seen you when landing! Hard to simulate being on the water... but it should actually be easier to load on the water than in the hangar. Done fishing and loaded in less than 2 1/2 minutes... boat in and fishing in less than 45 seconds. The telescopic tubes can also just stay attached to the canoe.. as the rear one is not in my way and if solo the front one can stay. If a passenger, then the front tube needs to be pulled out and left with the airplane. Edited May 10, 2009 by irishfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medmart Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Great job Wayne but i have to wonder how many times you will be going for a swim when you step into the canoe LOL Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Haven't had it on the water yet.. so don't know how (un) stable it is. No fear... I always have a trout fishing vest on, with inflator rip cord when flying floats !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny G Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Really cool man! Sportspals are a good canoe to fish from. Kenny G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jediangler Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Very nice set up. My only question would be, wouldn't it create less turbulance flying with the nose of the canoe at the front instead of the transom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigugli Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Great bit of inventiveness there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted May 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 (edited) Very nice set up. My only question would be, wouldn't it create less turbulance flying with the nose of the canoe at the front instead of the transom? No... it actually causes less turbulence in reverse. Same reason streamline strut has the blunt/wide end forward.. tapered trailing. The boat in this direction will actually create lift as well.. same as a wing shape. Even if none of those did anything.. the flat front is more predictable than what a tapered end will do in wind gusts... prop wash etc.. and besides that... need the tapered end at the back to clear water rudder cables! lol Edited May 10, 2009 by irishfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted May 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 (edited) Great bit of inventiveness there. THANKS....I'd patent it bigugli.. but I already have a drawer full of those useless documents ! Edited May 10, 2009 by irishfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike the Pike Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 (edited) Very nice set up. My only question would be, wouldn't it create less turbulance flying with the nose of the canoe at the front instead of the transom? Edited May 10, 2009 by Mike the Pike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 So that's why your post count has remained the same in the last little while Very neat idea Wayne. That will be a sight to behold in the sky Joey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbouck Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 That looks great! I'm curious how many times you are going for a swim while trying to get to the other side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted May 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 I go across there all the time Dan. Not an issue with lots to hold onto, but I always tend to bump my head and why I'm going bald. Other option is to just climb up the keel strips on the canoe and in the passenger door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickingfrog Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 I CALL BOW, I CALL BOW!!! Nice job Wayne. You're one crafty son of a gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted May 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 I'm gonna see if Solopaddler want's me to do his new Langford next..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassmastermike Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Thats Awesome Wayne!!! Great idea Ill be your first back lakes adventure clientLOL , Ive always wanted to do a fly in fishing adventure. Nice to see you kept yourself busy during the snowy season....See you soon at Lakair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Okay, time for the proverbial monkey wrench , everything is good and stable on terra firma, but I imagine that the plane bobs up and down a tiny bit and the canoe empty will ride at a certain level and when you get in, (not saying yer a lard butt) but then the canoe goes down a bit, will the square holes for the rack accomodate that much movement up and down? f it was just holes on one side probably wouldn't matter but the rack bars go right through to the other side, catch my drift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillM Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 I'm gonna see if Solopaddler want's me to do his new Langford next..... Don't scratch it Wayne, he cringed anytime we rubbed up against the rocks :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted May 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 (edited) Okay, time for the proverbial monkey wrench , everything is good and stable on terra firma, but I imagine that the plane bobs up and down a tiny bit and the canoe empty will ride at a certain level and when you get in, (not saying yer a lard butt) but then the canoe goes down a bit, will the square holes for the rack accomodate that much movement up and down? f it was just holes on one side probably wouldn't matter but the rack bars go right through to the other side, catch my drift. Once I get my fat ass out of the ganoe the boat will actually sit a bit higher.. or should I say the attach tubes will be a bit higher than the pivot attach brackets on the float. Push down on the tube to tip the canoe a bit and the pins (should) pop right in.. easier than with it sitting on jack stands. The canoe isn't that rigid either... it 's made of such light alum that it twists end to end pretty easily. I'll find out late next week, hopefully, how it works on the water.. Edited May 10, 2009 by irishfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Best Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Great thinking there Wayner......I can see the dropping time getting faster with practice and the recovery time getting longer with a little breeze and wave action,but I'm sure you'll master it with practice too....TC and Tight lines all.....Chuck.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perodimi Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Do you need a co-pilot with an instrument rating by any chance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnine Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 No... it actually causes less turbulence in reverse. Same reason streamline strut has the blunt/wide end forward.. tapered trailing. The boat in this direction will actually create lift as well.. same as a wing shape. Even if none of those did anything.. the flat front is more predictable than what a tapered end will do in wind gusts... prop wash etc.. and besides that... need the tapered end at the back to clear water rudder cables! lol I had the same question Wayne and will bow to your expertise on the answer, but am still dubious. You might also want to go with back up rods to test those holders the first time (I worry about vibrations and winds sending them soaring). I am envious of the ingenuity and the ability, as well as the opportunity, to create things such as this. You are like the kid in the candy store, that can also make new candy. And your hangar looks like the ultimate man cave. Good on ya! Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted May 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Instrument flying... that was last summers trip to Nipigon..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted May 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 I had the same question Wayne and will bow to your expertise on the answer, but am still dubious. You might also want to go with back up rods to test those holders the first time (I worry about vibrations and winds sending them soaring).I am envious of the ingenuity and the ability, as well as the opportunity, to create things such as this. You are like the kid in the candy store, that can also make new candy. And your hangar looks like the ultimate man cave. Good on ya! Jim Jim.. I had half a thought to throw a strap around the front as well...but considering the 3/8" quick pins have about a 9 ton shear rating x 2 pins on each bar... compared to my float attachment itself that is only a single 5/16 bolt top and bottom of each strut, I think she'll be fine. Pivot plates have double failure built in and the canoe can't move once pegged. It's definitely stronger than when I flew it with CTC ratchet straps on it! For peace of mine.. the front bow rope of the float will get tied to the canoes, plastic, handles... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perodimi Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Do you think anybody would notice if you rigged a canoe for me too?: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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