hirk Posted January 6, 2009 Report Posted January 6, 2009 Anybody ever put the 2 pieces back together?I ask because I have a pooched 200khz Lowrance transducer and a good 200khz eagle transducer,they have different plugs and I was considering combining them to create 1 good trans for my Lowrance,thoughts?
danbo Posted January 6, 2009 Report Posted January 6, 2009 Both are 12volt..so why not? What's the PTP on each unit?
Fisherman Posted January 6, 2009 Report Posted January 6, 2009 Anybody ever put the 2 pieces back together?I ask because I have a pooched 200khz Lowrance transducer and a good 200khz eagle transducer,they have different plugs and I was considering combining them to create 1 good trans for my Lowrance,thoughts? Yes it can be done, the guys from the Lowrance repair center e-mailed me the paper a few years back, I only need about 4' of wire and wanted to get rid of the rest of the ball of wire flopping around. It's very similar to putting "F" connectors on cable, just working from both sides of the cut. Solder the center lead, cover with liquid insulation, shrink wrap, then do the same with the outer braid, cover with foil, shrinkwrap and coat the ends. So far after 3-4 years that transducer stays mounted on the back of the boat and still working fine.
bassjnkie Posted January 6, 2009 Report Posted January 6, 2009 Cool, I have a cut transducer cable I was going to toss. I didn't know it could be spliced. When you say wrap with foil, are you talking about regular alum. kitchen foil? Thanks Daniel
aniceguy Posted January 6, 2009 Report Posted January 6, 2009 Hirk done know if the connectors would work Im asuming they are both greay and not blue or red connectors.. I pulled out a flasher from my boat and repliced the connectors making a proper watertight connection and it appears to work perfectly fine.
forrest Posted January 6, 2009 Report Posted January 6, 2009 Cool, I have a cut transducer cable I was going to toss. I didn't know it could be spliced. When you say wrap with foil, are you talking about regular alum. kitchen foil? Thanks Daniel the foil will be shielding. Buy non-lead solder and read up on soldering before starting, it is not as simple as melting the solder onto the wire. It needs to be done right. http://www.instructables.com/id/EFLMFFRI2AEWP873L3/ forrest
bassjnkie Posted January 6, 2009 Report Posted January 6, 2009 the foil will be shielding.Buy non-lead solder and read up on soldering before starting, it is not as simple as melting the solder onto the wire. It needs to be done right. http://www.instructables.com/id/EFLMFFRI2AEWP873L3/ forrest Cool the foil acts as a shield, sounds good. For the soldering, I've been doing it for years. Thanks for the link. Daniel
Terry Posted January 6, 2009 Report Posted January 6, 2009 forrest did give you the right answer and it's really not hard to do I have done it many times you could also put a male and female connector where it is cut then you can disconnect it anytime you want I did that on a trolling motor that I had a transducer on and it sure made life easier
hirk Posted January 6, 2009 Author Report Posted January 6, 2009 Thx guys.I have the right connectors,need to switch one over to the good transducer (which is Eagle and doesn't fit my Lowrance).Forest you can be my teacher
Dnthmn Posted January 7, 2009 Report Posted January 7, 2009 If you don't have some already when you pick up the solder grab a tin of flux as well. Not necessary but I find it makes for a better connection.
Fisherman Posted January 7, 2009 Report Posted January 7, 2009 If you don't have some already when you pick up the solder grab a tin of flux as well. Not necessary but I find it makes for a better connection. Healthy electronics hint, don't use flux on electronics, it will cause corrosion later, use the proper electronics solder.
BillM Posted January 7, 2009 Report Posted January 7, 2009 A little solder, some shrink tubing and you'll be all set.
Tybo Posted January 7, 2009 Report Posted January 7, 2009 If you soldered small gauge wire(18 to 24) like the vid in my shop I would make you open the harness and replace the burnt wire. On 18 gauge and up. You don't want to use any more then 75 watt soldering iron. You will burn the cable making it brittle.If this wire is in a high flex area the wire will break just past the solder. Also use thinner flux. Acid flux is for other jobs. Flux is very inportent. It will help the solder spread without adding heat to the wire. Flux will also clean the wire. helping the solder to get a firmer hold.
forrest Posted January 7, 2009 Report Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) If you soldered small gauge wire(18 to 24) like the vid in my shopI would make you open the harness and replace the burnt wire. On 18 gauge and up. You don't want to use any more then 75 watt soldering iron. You will burn the cable making it brittle.If this wire is in a high flex area the wire will break just past the solder. Also use thinner flux. Acid flux is for other jobs. Flux is very inportent. It will help the solder spread without adding heat to the wire. Flux will also clean the wire. helping the solder to get a firmer hold. I am thinking the above standards are too high for this application and the materials available to the person doing the work. Tybo is right about the flex thing, make the area rigid and a bit of slack to reduce stress on it. Never had to use extra flux (there is flux in the solder) unless I totally botched the soldering job, in this case forge the flux, cut the wire and start again...... I have cleaned the wire with alcohol if I had too. Work with a cheap iron is OK....if you are careful. Yes, I have done a lot of good soldering work and yes, Good enough to build an stereo amplifier and and a laser based comm system on circuit boards I made myself. Using different size of wire can be a potential problem with data transfer wires, I do not know about the 200Khz range). As long as you upsize for a patch it will be OK for the low voltage. Its a lousy few wires. Within reason, work with what you have and it will work out. forrest Edited January 7, 2009 by forrest
Dnthmn Posted January 7, 2009 Report Posted January 7, 2009 Wow, seems like I started a big debate regarding flux "Rosin Core Solder" or "Flux Core Solder" contain flux but the rest do not. Personally I find that a better connection is created by using a tiny amount of flux to clean the wire before applying the heat. I also find that this allows a novice to get a better end result and reduces the chances of them making a mistake such as applying too much heat for too long. Tybo's last two points hit the nail on the head!
tschirk Posted January 7, 2009 Report Posted January 7, 2009 Follow good soldering practices as above. Heatshrink each indivdidual conductor- besides the good insulation value it will also reduce capacitance between conductors which can impact accuracy (as inductance can too). Once each conductor is insulated join braid (ground) and wrap all with tinfoil (ensure braid makes good electrical contact with foil. use large piece of heat shrink to cover all. I sometimes coat w liquid tape prior to heat shrinking.
tschirk Posted January 7, 2009 Report Posted January 7, 2009 for multi conductor transducers I have spliced in a 5 or 7 pin DIN audio connector (male-feamle)as a quick disconnect- it works very well for my trolling motor transducer.
ecmilley Posted January 7, 2009 Report Posted January 7, 2009 well hirk if you wanted something soldered up you just have to ask!! I'll take an extra large tims with sugar please
forrest Posted January 7, 2009 Report Posted January 7, 2009 Wow, seems like I started a big debate regarding flux "Rosin Core Solder" or "Flux Core Solder" contain flux but the rest do not. Personally I find that a better connection is created by using a tiny amount of flux to clean the wire before applying the heat. I also find that this allows a novice to get a better end result and reduces the chances of them making a mistake such as applying too much heat for too long. Tybo's last two points hit the nail on the head! Why complicate things? Like the guy at radio shack is going to sell solder without flux. Heck, I never bought solder without flux. KISS is the method required here. There is no need for purchasing a Weller or a solder wick, flux or fume removing equipment. If Hirk bought all the stuff he "needs" he would be better of buying a new cable. I am starting to like that "connector method" more an more. forrest
Dnthmn Posted January 8, 2009 Report Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) I'll agree to disagree. Lets have a beer instead of debate the benefits/drawbacks of flux!! Edited January 8, 2009 by Dnthmn
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