issamhay Posted April 12, 2008 Report Posted April 12, 2008 well this is my first time buying a fishfinder and I'd just like to know if its complicated and if u need to purchase anyything else when you buy the fishfinder, Im going to get a Eagle® Cuda™ 168 Fish Finder - Burgundy from the Bass pro website. Thanks in advance.
irishfield Posted April 12, 2008 Report Posted April 12, 2008 Before you buy it there.. check price... it's on sale (supposably) at Trombly's in Orilla for $79.99 this weekend.
Victor Posted April 12, 2008 Report Posted April 12, 2008 i've got the portable version. Only a few parts need to be put together, very straightforward. Other than batteries, you won't need anything that doesn't come with it.
Mike the Pike Posted April 12, 2008 Report Posted April 12, 2008 I found when I bought my first fiberglass boat in 2001 I bought an eagle fish finder after drilling holes installing the unit I was forced to go out and buy some more wire because Eagle did not provide enough to connect me to the transducer at the back of the boat Someone at Eagle figured everyone had a 10 ft boat. Pay a few hundred $$$$ and get short changed. Its gone now sold it with the fiberglass boat .Good luck with the install. MTP
Sinker Posted April 12, 2008 Report Posted April 12, 2008 One thing that will come in handy is a few screw in wire clips ( not sure what the real name is) Just keeps everything neat. Other than that, its pretty straight forward. Sinker
NANUK Posted April 12, 2008 Report Posted April 12, 2008 Pay special attention to "Transducer Mounting Instructions" in you manual, you don't want to drill more holes in your transom, use stainless screws and a good marine grade adhesive like 3M 4200 or 5200, a lot more expensive then regular silicone but worth every penny IMO. fill the holes and coat the screws with it before tightening the transducer bracket, use the in-line fuse(on +/red wire) supplied with the unit.
Billy Bob Posted April 12, 2008 Report Posted April 12, 2008 I have found regular silicone caulking to work VERY well and last a LONG time. I just replace my old X-50 unit with a new LMS 520c and the silicone caulking held up for 23 years and you can get it at any hardware store.
OhioFisherman Posted April 12, 2008 Report Posted April 12, 2008 Ya transducer placement for proper operation is important. I use stainless screws and bolts on everything on a boat, also stainless nylock nuts, keeps vibration for loosening them. If you change depth finders or remove them remember to fill in the old holes!
LundGuy Posted April 13, 2008 Report Posted April 13, 2008 Transducer placement is very important.Make sure not to get to close to the prop wash. Also put some silicone into the opening at the top of the transducer bracket, between the bracket and back of the boat, this will stop you from having a roster tail of water spraying up.
forrest Posted April 13, 2008 Report Posted April 13, 2008 I have found regular silicone caulking to work VERY well and last a LONG time. I just replace my old X-50 unit with a new LMS 520c and the silicone caulking held up for 23 years and you can get it at any hardware store. Regular silicone breaks down in sunlight, some silicone will not bond properly for your job. From what I have read marine silicone is polyeuratane based and UV resistant. Get the right silicone for the job. forrest
Billy Bob Posted April 13, 2008 Report Posted April 13, 2008 Forrest, not to start a argument but don't you think you are really pulling on some straws there. I really don't know if sunlight can effect regular silicone or not but even if it does how much sunlight do you think is going to shine on the silicone that you put in the holes you drilled in the BOTTOM of the transom and the stainless steel screws you are going to use to attach the transducer bracket to the BOTTOM of the transom. The 3M Silicone caulking I have always used sticks VERY well on any boat project and in the bath tub / shower area in my home. When the time comes to remove this 3M Silicone caulking it has always been a chore. But if you feel better purchasing "special" marine caulking and spending 2-3X the amount go ahead. I know some people that will only purchase Mobil gasoline because it cleans their engine while driving. Do you see where I am going here.
irishfield Posted April 13, 2008 Report Posted April 13, 2008 (edited) Get the right silicone for the job. forrest Then stop calling it Silicone.. .because it's not if it's the right stuff ! Edited April 13, 2008 by irishfield
issamhay Posted April 13, 2008 Author Report Posted April 13, 2008 TRhansk for the info guys, now is there any difference in functionality between the the portable and non portable version? Im willing to pay an extra 20 dollars for the portable version but is it worse on boats?
forrest Posted April 13, 2008 Report Posted April 13, 2008 Then stop calling it Silicone.. .because it's not if it's the right stuff ! It was late when I posted that! Yes, caulking was the right thing to say. Clarification is good forrest
bbog Posted April 13, 2008 Report Posted April 13, 2008 TRhansk for the info guys, now is there any difference in functionality between the the portable and non portable version? Im willing to pay an extra 20 dollars for the portable version but is it worse on boats? Functionally the non-portable and portable are the same. Only difference is the battery box and a suction cup for the transducer. No installation is required for the portable unit - just adhere the suction cup where you wish to place the transducer and power up the unit. IMHO I would select another unit with a little more resolution unless you have a specific reason for wanting the Cuda 168 (or get it for $80 at Tromblys).
Billy Bob Posted April 13, 2008 Report Posted April 13, 2008 If this depth finder is going to be used on the same boat then don't get a portable because they are a pain after awhile. You need batteries and a extra set in case they go dead when you're on the water plus the suction cup keeps falling off at speeds higher than trolling depending on your boat. I have had them stay on for several days and then just the opposite where you looked cross eyed at it and it would fall off.
issamhay Posted April 20, 2008 Author Report Posted April 20, 2008 wait, so the non-poratble version is for boats that have boats that have an electric starting motor?
issamhay Posted April 20, 2008 Author Report Posted April 20, 2008 I only havea plain old aluminum boat and 9.9 hp mercury, no steering or anything fancy.
BillM Posted April 20, 2008 Report Posted April 20, 2008 I only havea plain old aluminum boat and 9.9 hp mercury, no steering or anything fancy. All you need is a battery to plug the fishfinder into You don't need anything special.
issamhay Posted April 20, 2008 Author Report Posted April 20, 2008 ok thanks alot I got it now, phew i thought i was screwed cause i ordered the non-portable version.
aplumma Posted April 20, 2008 Report Posted April 20, 2008 here is a link to a good read about Marine caulks and why/when they need to be used. Holes below the waterline are nothing to be playing the guessing game with since they can sink you overnight. impartial caulk information.
pikehunter Posted April 20, 2008 Report Posted April 20, 2008 Transducer placement is very important.Make sure not to get to close to the prop wash. Also put some silicone into the opening at the top of the transducer bracket, between the bracket and back of the boat, this will stop you from having a roster tail of water spraying up. Can you please explain this in more detail, I don't follow exactly what you mean. I have this problem and the spray can be a pain in the butt because it gets in the boat and if a wind is blowing from the rear it really gets inside. BTW, my F.F was installed by the dealer as a package when the boat was new. Thanks.
Fisherman Posted April 20, 2008 Report Posted April 20, 2008 Excellent article, I've been using 3M for boatwork, no more "peelers" that require redoing when using sillycone.
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