SlowPoke

Rolly, the P+ would really excel on your waters. There's a ton of humps on the east shore that show up in 3D mode that you won't see otherwise. The Navionics contour lines are close but the 3D mode provides additional shading that reveal. Let's hookup sometime and you can see for yourself.

My electronics saved me $300 on Saturday. We were fishing 4' rollers and landing a fish. I still had a rod out on the planer board tipped down 45* and the boat was rockin' hard. I figure at some point with the heavy waves, the rod holder (Bert's Ratcheting Tube) was parallel with the water and the pull from the planer board sucked it right out of the boat. We released the fish and Rob said "Ummm, where's your rod?" We pulled the big planer board in hoping the release was still clinching the line but no luck. We cleared the rods, spun the boat around and re-deployed in hopes to snag the line. Thankfully I was running a Harvo at the time and it's a floating lure. I followed our track on the GPS which was extremely challenging in high winds and waves and prevailed. Saved a Tekota 600LC, rod and muskie lure. For trolling I utilize electronics heavily on big water for navigation, systematic trolling, speed and water temperature. Secondary benefits are structure and fish activity. Many of my fish over the years are produced from a clean sonar screen; flat bottom and little activity. If I had to choose either sonar OR gps for trolling, I'd take gps. For casting and small water, the electronics are nice to get you to a spot but then your senses and instinct have to take over. A paper chart or topo map is just as useful for finding humps and saddles. Your lure will tell you all you need to know about structure. Practice and education will tell you where the fish should be and your senses will confirm if you are correct. That's where the best anglers excel. ChrisK and I were fishing walleye on the same spot, same presentation and he's outfishing me 5-1. He's in the back of the boat telling me "hey, you got one on" LOL!! The same goes for icefisherman (Emil), fishing the same baits a few feet apart on the ice and getting outfished 5-1. I don't think I even want to attempt carp and walleye fishing with Bly.... LOL!!

The yellow wire is not used, only black and red for pos/neg.

I know a lifer there, a former union rep that stepped down over the politics inside. You probably know who I'm referring to and his reasoning. Companies enter negotiations with long term forecasts and profitability in mind, not past results. Unions enter negotiations with the intent to better current and future remuneration. Sometimes these expectations can not be met, it happened to me. My previous employer was asleep at the switch and the cuts came too late, as deep as they were. I sustained a 20% cut over three years. I too was ashamed to work for such a company so I left after 18 years service and senior man in the region. I rode the gravy train about three years too long.

What affiliation do you have with Coca Cola?

My old 18" Starcraft rode on a roller trailer since new ('87) and shows zero signs of damage. I'm not just talking about dents, there's not even a rub mark at the point of contact. To further dispel the myth; when I hauled boats for a living, they road along just fine one 1 sqft carpeted steel bunks at the back and a 4" wide V block at the front. Side bunks were decoration and didn't contact the hull. We're talking about 40'ers sitting on VERY small contact patches. When it comes to weight distribution per square inch, it's your fridge you should be worried about. And to stay ON TOPIC... Composite decking boards are readily available and comparatively cheap but full marks for "thinking outside the (penalty) box".

That doesn't help you much when you're alone and on the wet side of the boat after a mishap. I think tb4me is looking for something mounted. On a side note as many are unaware, a "re-boarding device" is required on all vessels exceeding .5m freeboard (1'8")

I'm in the same boat (groan) but I have another year before the fire sale lol

These go on sale all the time at Princess Auto http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Marine-Accessories/2-3-4-ft-Stainless-Steel-Boat-Ladder/8159378.p

That's great! I guess you know what your next combo will be.

I feel for ya, bud! The problem you face is none of this is over-the-counter new. The ETEC is worth about $7500-$8000, Merc $2500-$2800, Terrova $900-$1100... we've already chiseled you down to $11,900 on power. You're taking a bath on depreciation and taxes just because this stuff doesn't ring through a cash register. It sucks but I really think that's the way it is. I don't think anybody can question the value in this package and I'm just throwing out numbers off the top of my head, so keep that in mind. I just don't think that finding the right buyer will come easily. You might do a lot better by finding a suitable used engine to match the vintage of the hull and sell the power items/electronics separately. Can I ask why you're selling it? I've seen it on the MCI forum and you've done a great job!

Hardcore. I'm ready to pack it in if I'm low on smokes.

I have to agree. The value is there but the buyer may not be. I did an extensive rebuild on my '87 Starcraft CC including full aluminium floor, everything short of new paint and motor. The intent was to keep it for a long time and those enhancements would pay for themselves. I was in the process of shopping for a new motor when I came across the perfect boat (for me) at a serious discount. (New, non-current $10k off) I had no trouble selling the CC because the value was there, the buyer was in love with it and didn't need financing for $6,000. Not everyone will have $15,000 cash to spend on an older boat; financing it will be tough and somebody with a line of credit is probably going to go the new route. Here's the good news... You have a CC and they're not easy to come by, especially aluminium. You'll have that market (albeit small) to yourself.

I would go with an aluminium J mold using the long side on the inner wall of the recess. Aluminium can be cut with wood blades so getting your miters shouldn't be too much trouble on a miter saw. http://www.eagle-aluminum.com/Aluminum-J-Cap--curved-face-drip-rail_p_186.html

I would imagine its these guys. http://www.stingrayboats.com/cgi-bin/cgiwrap?user=www&script=web4dealer.pl&tyr=137876649903 There's a boat on a pedestal out front. The canvas shop is in the building behind the dealer.

This would be my bet. Just to clarify "can be leaking down"; there won't necessarily be an external fluid leak there, a loose screw on the manual relief valve will allow fluid to "leak" past the valve. If there's no sign of fluid loss in the T/T system, try tightening the manual relief valve as fishburn advised. These valves don't have a high failure rate but if it is defective, it shouldn't set you back too much.

That storm passed right over our heads in London... had to close the windows for a few minutes.

"Support your own" is always my first choice but when it comes to a big ticket item like a car, I support me first. In my opinion, the Elantra is unmatched for style, service and quality in its price range. I think you're also underestimating the number of quality jobs a dealership supports. Also, it won't be long before Hyundai starts building in North America and hopefully turning the lights on in some vacant plants and employing displaced workers. It's brands like Hyundai, Toyota and Honda that put the big three where they were a few years ago and forced them to step up their made in North America quality. Competition is a good thing and consumers will benefit from it. Toyota has done a world of good for Woodstock and the local feeder plants. I'm okay with attracting foreign investment in Canadian jobs. Ford on the other hand has hurt a lot of local industry by closing the Talbotville plant. Just so you know, I always check for COO (country of origin) when I am purchasing something. If I can get the same or better quality made in North America, I'm willing to shell out a few extra bucks. I don't think I'll be changing your opinion but I wanted to expand on my thoughts.

I don't think you can come close to matching value and quality in that price range. Also keep in mind, you are supporting a dealer and transportation network that keeps your friends and neighbours employed.

The Kia SOLE will ended up costing more after you tint the windows so nobody can you see you driving it We have a 2012 Elantra 4dr Sedan 6sp Manual. PHENOMENAL on gas. My wife averaged 4.9 L/100 yesterday from London to Sauble Beach The dealers in our area will bend over backwards for customer satisfaction. Car wash and paint touch-ups (stone chips) at each service for example. Courtesy car for overnight warranty work was negotiated into the deal. Two minor problems fixed no charge in 36,000 km - tube from AC evaporator came off. - exhaust clamp loosened causing an occasional tinny sound under vibration. Personally, I would decline the electronic rust protection but my wife liked the body warranty and no inspection policy. I prefer Krown rustproofing myself. I don't care for the Elantra GT look but its better than the SOLE!! Happy so far and would buy another; maybe even the Sonata next time.

Cats, smallies and a couple 'skis. We didn't get a good measurement on this one but its an easy 50...

Leaving from London either east to Lake Ontario for Salmon or west to Lake St. Clair for Muskie... any takers? I have all the gear and safety equipment needed.

Fishboch confirms what I've often wondered when I first saw those sport track adapters. I see the stress my 8"+ gunwales take with my riggers/track and I can only imagine the damage being caused over time. Tall risers aren't a good solution either unless their to each other or to the gunwales. This would solve the problem... and since money is no object when it's time to rig out the boat... lol http://berts-tackle.shptron.com/p/8ft-downrigger-board-w-2-6tracks-2-risers-and-2-end-caps?pp=8

I think your 10 awg was a tad thin for the old motor to be honest. It may not have caused any obvious issues but probably resulted in some measurable issues i.e. voltage drop. My Terrova 101 called for 8 awg as well but I upgraded to 2 awg because I have about an 18' run of cable. Your 50amp breaker should be fine. I'd rather go small breaker than large off the bat. If you have problems with a 50amp, the circuit is telling you you have problems elswhere.

Marine seating falls into two classifications for good reason. http://www.springfieldgrp.com/customer-support/standards What you should consider is a slider http://www.springfieldgrp.com/products-2/boat-slides-swivels/camlock-2