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Bilge pump winterizing


b_cdot

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Agreed but how do you get the antifreeze throughout the livewell plumbing if you dont pump from the intake at the back?

 

My shutoff valves are between the pumps and the transom. On my boat, the outlets are slightly below the valves so they drain easily every time. When I add the antifreeze and circulate, I'm filling the pumps and the Flowrite valves and that's my only concern. Keep in mind, I have a bassboat so if the outlet is higher such as it may be on a deep-v, there may be water between the valves and the outlet to contend with.

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I'm trying to understand how you would pump the anti freeze from the transom inlets up to the livewells?

 

I had a question today for the marine Guru's. Why not use windshield washer antifreeze? Good for -40C and on sale for 99 cents a jug? No one will be drinking from those water lines in the spring. If the temps get to -40 I am going to have some other serious problems like frozen water lines as the heat trace for this shack is good to -40 and that's it.

 

Side note: I couldn't finish winterizing today. All ready to fog and I open the new cans of Fogging spray and the push buttons are missing, on both!!!! None of the cans I have around here have a button that will fit. Quality control these days just suck. Now I have to check each and every spray can of whatever now to make sure it has a trigger button???? Looking at all the cans I have I did notice there are several different styles of buttons now.

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I'm trying to understand how you would pump the anti freeze from the transom inlets up to the livewells?I had a question today for the marine Guru's. Why not use windshield washer antifreeze? Good for -40C and on sale for 99 cents a jug? No one will be drinking from those water lines in the spring. If the temps get to -40 I am going to have some other serious problems like frozen water lines as the heat trace for this shack is good to -40 and that's it.Side note: I couldn't finish winterizing today. All ready to fog and I open the new cans of Fogging spray and the push buttons are missing, on both!!!! None of the cans I have around here have a button that will fit. Quality control these days just suck. Now I have to check each and every spray can of whatever now to make sure it has a trigger button???? Looking at all the cans I have I did notice there are several different styles of buttons now.

Funnel, hose and gravity!

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The only thing you have to remember is when one of those thru hull live well pumps, or power washer pump inlets breaks off inside the transom, your boat sinks as your bilge pump isn't going to keep up.

 

Temagami marine has about 200 boats with thru hull pumps stored there by my estimation, only 2 sunk last year on their first night tied to customers docks. Do you want to be in the 1%??

 

$3.00 worth of antifreeze and 20 minutes of your time. Just did mine this morning and then capped the intakes ready for Musky fishing.... if I can ever find the time to get out there.

 

Oh.. and b_cdot, if you hull is dry your bilge pump most likely is too as it will drain itself into the hull of the boat. It's as simple as blowing hard into the outlet on the side of the boat to make sure.

Just used the shop vac after fishing tonight on the bilge line... should be good. Not doing the full winterization yet. Walleye fishing is just starting to heat up around my waters.. just like to winterize the plumbing with the cold weather coming up. CanTire had rv antifreeze on for 3 bucks a jug. Took me 5 mins to reflush the plumbing again tnight. -6 next 2 nights. I dont mind being too careful. Gives me a chance to crack a beer and pretend im working on the boat for an hour while the wife watches whatever it is she watches. As long and im not watching it...life is good!

Edited by b_cdot
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I'm trying to understand how you would pump the anti freeze from the transom inlets up to the livewells?

 

Funnel, some kind of hose from the funnel to livewell intake at the back of boat and use livewell pump in the boat to pump it to the livewells. Usually a screen to screw off intake at the back.

 

I had a question today for the marine Guru's. Why not use windshield washer antifreeze? Good for -40C and on sale for 99 cents a jug? No one will be drinking from those water lines in the spring. If the temps get to -40 I am going to have some other serious problems like frozen water lines as the heat trace for this shack is good to -40 and that's it.

 

Side note: I couldn't finish winterizing today. All ready to fog and I open the new cans of Fogging spray and the push buttons are missing, on both!!!! None of the cans I have around here have a button that will fit. Quality control these days just suck. Now I have to check each and every spray can of whatever now to make sure it has a trigger button???? Looking at all the cans I have I did notice there are several different styles of buttons now.

Funnel with some kind of short hose. Attach hose to livewell intake at back of boat. Remove screen first. May not be a tight fit. No big deal. Fill funnel and let boats livewell pump to pump it forward. Wait till pink liquid arrives in well. Make sure livewell valves are open (at top of livewell compartment to the side)

Edited by captpierre
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I don't remember did you put fuel stabilizer in. ! use sea foam because it has no shelf life. It's the 1 thing you don't want to if you get caught in a fast freeze so do it early and just top up if necessary.

 

Good call! Added seafoam about 3 weeks ago. Its likely still in the system

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Seafoam is not a fuel stabilizer to protect from Phase Separation within ethanol fuel, it is a fuel additive to help clean carbs and injectors, tune up in a bottle as it's often referred to. Many marine Guru's call it Snake oil. If you use a fuel like Shell Pro V no stabilizer is needed. My opinion and many others only. For the price of a bottle of 2+4 I add some anyway. I have only used Shell Pro V in all my boat engines and power tools since our good old friend Wormdunker told me to. The difference in price for Hi Test is about 10 to 15 bucks a tank for my 115, a no brainer if you think about it really. It's not like your putting 1200 to 1500 K's on the boat a month.

Edited by Old Ironmaker
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Seafoam is not a fuel stabilizer to protect from Phase Separation within ethanol fuel, it is a fuel additive to help clean carbs and injectors, tune up in a bottle as it's often referred to. Many marine Guru's call it Snake oil. If you use a fuel like Shell Pro V no stabilizer is needed. My opinion and many others only. For the price of a bottle of 2+4 I add some anyway. I have only used Shell Pro V in all my boat engines and power tools since our good old friend Wormdunker told me to. The difference in price for Hi Test is about 10 to 15 bucks a tank for my 115, a no brainer if you think about it really. It's not like your putting 1200 to 1500 K's on the boat a month.

2+4 is a Evinrude fuel treatment and will BLOW UP your black anchor.........LOL......jk

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Seafoam is not a fuel stabilizer to protect from Phase Separation within ethanol fuel, it is a fuel additive to help clean carbs and injectors, tune up in a bottle as it's often referred to.

 

This is a quote from the Seafoam web site.

Sorry to disagree OI.

 

Dan.

 

Works and Performs Quickly:

Professional mechanics and do-it-yourselfers everywhere rely on this product every day. Sea Foam Motor Treatment dissolves and cleans fuel and oil residues and deposits, stabilizes fuel, controls moisture, and lubricates upper cylinders. Safe and effective when added to gasoline and diesel fuel and oil crankcases – Just pour it in!

https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/

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This is a quote from the Seafoam web site.

Sorry to disagree OI.

 

Dan.

 

Works and Performs Quickly:

Professional mechanics and do-it-yourselfers everywhere rely on this product every day. Sea Foam Motor Treatment dissolves and cleans fuel and oil residues and deposits, stabilizes fuel, controls moisture, and lubricates upper cylinders. Safe and effective when added to gasoline and diesel fuel and oil crankcases – Just pour it in!

https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/

On the old can of Sea Foam I have it also says it will fix blown engine and improve radio reception...... :)

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Seafoam is not a fuel stabilizer to protect from Phase Separation within ethanol fuel, it is a fuel additive to help clean carbs and injectors, tune up in a bottle as it's often referred to. Many marine Guru's call it Snake oil. If you use a fuel like Shell Pro V no stabilizer is needed. My opinion and many others only. For the price of a bottle of 2+4 I add some anyway. I have only used Shell Pro V in all my boat engines and power tools since our good old friend Wormdunker told me to. The difference in price for Hi Test is about 10 to 15 bucks a tank for my 115, a no brainer if you think about it really. It's not like your putting 1200 to 1500 K's on the boat a month.

I usually throw a can or two of seafoam in throughout the aeason. I use merc quikstor for winterizing atabilizer. I will use this when the boat goes to sleep for the winter. I have also been told by ppl it stabilizes but its not the beat choice. The side of the can says it stabilizes as well.

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I've been using Seafoam for many years now. My understanding is that it will stabilize fuel for two years, not that any fuel should be kept that long anyway. I put it in my premium small engine fuel as soon as I buy it. And yes it does prevent phase separation, they've always touted this feature from way back.

 

Cheers

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Thanks Wayne, looks easy enough, now watch what happens when I do it.

 

 

Funnel, hose and gravity!

 

 

Funnel with some kind of short hose. Attach hose to livewell intake at back of boat. Remove screen first. May not be a tight fit. No big deal. Fill funnel and let boats livewell pump to pump it forward. Wait till pink liquid arrives in well. Make sure livewell valves are open (at top of livewell compartment to the side)

 

Thank you both.

 

2+4 is a Evinrude fuel treatment and will BLOW UP your black anchor.........LOL......jk

 

My anchor is Grey and says Mariner on it. I use the name 2+4 as a generic for phase seperators, like all plastic containers are called Tupperware.

This is a quote from the Seafoam web site.

Sorry to disagree OI.

 

Dan.

 

 

Works and Performs Quickly:

Professional mechanics and do-it-yourselfers everywhere rely on this product every day. Sea Foam Motor Treatment dissolves and cleans fuel and oil residues and deposits, stabilizes fuel, controls moisture, and lubricates upper cylinders. Safe and effective when added to gasoline and diesel fuel and oil crankcases – Just pour it in!

 

https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/

 

I stand corrected. I am just so biased from being on iboats.com where most all of the Guru's there call all this stuff Snake Oil. Snake Oil or not I'm using it, like I say it helps me sleep during those cold winters nights. Many times I have awoken in a cold sweat trying to remember if I did everything I was supposed to do winterizing the boat. I don't need to make a $7000.00 mistake and freeze up my outboard or leave water in the bilge and crack the hull or pop some rivets. After the 1st few times I did it myself I finally made a checklist and checked off everything I did, so in the middle of the night I check the check list if I remember where I put it.

 

I used to pay the "guy" to do the winterizing and it wasn't cheap. Once I watched a few You Tube videos and saw it done by Featherstone Ted I smacked my head against the boat because it really is simple. As long as I have my checklist when I do it. Besides doing the winterizing it's good to look around while the cowl is off for anything that looks amiss and remove the props grease and to check for line etc. I found 2 screws missing and 2 screws backed off on the carb cover the other day. I tightened them up and made a note to replace the missing screws, where they fell who knows. I stuck a wire magnet down where no small hand will even fit and found a screw but not that screw. I may not sleep until I find where it came from. Owning a boat is so rewarding.

Edited by Old Ironmaker
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How does ethanol free gas undergo 'phase separation' anyway? Unless there is ethanol in the fuel, there are no phases to separate (at least according to the scientific community anyway). The stabilizers may do more than just prevent phase separation but if you're running ethanol free gas the benefits may not be as much many folks believe (although better radio reception would be very nice at times...) :D

Edited by G.mech
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