Changing the floor boards on a boat. (Photo Added)

[jimmer]

I thought I would throw this out there to this membership before I attempt it on my own. I have a 14' Smokercraft with a walk through design. I noticed that the floor is getting kind of spongy, so it looks like I will have to replace it this fall. My biggest issue is going to be how to get the new wood in after removing the old stuff. I have two bench seats; one in front and one in back, a live well on one side and storage on the other. The seats, live well and storage are screwed to the floor, but riveted to the sides. Should I pay someone to pop the rivets and replace them after (any idea the cost of this?) I replace the floor or should I put pieces of wood in like a jigsaw puzzle? My concern with pieces is that there will be a lack of support between the joints of the plywood. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks, Jim

Edited May 16, 2017 by jimmer

[Old Ironmaker]

This is do able even for a novice. Cut the rivets off with a Dremill tool. I doubt you have a rivet gun so you may have to get someone to do this for you. Be prepared to dig out all the floation foam, if the floor is spongy the foam is more than likely water logged now and must be replaced.

 

The best advice I can give is to join the iboats.com forum and ask there. Many experts more than happy to give great advice right down to what proper materials, tools to use and proper procedure and tips. They want plenty of pictures as you go along.

[Sinker]

When I did mine I didn't remove any rivets. I took all the old ply out. Next time I do it, I'm using aluminum checker plate.

 

S.

[John Bacon]

Unless the rivits are holding the floor boards down (I have see this), you shouldn't have to remove any rivits. Pictures would help.

[OhioFisherman]

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=replacing+floor+on+aluminum+boat

 

 

You might get tips on a youtube video?

 

Pics or a model number might help?

[jjcanoe]

A few pics would help out a lot, I did this a few years ago and replaced the grubby carpeting with new vinyl while I was doing the floor

[cisco]

You can buy special rivets that have a kinda nail sticking out one end. They work the opposite way that regular pop rivets do. The rivet has an 'x' cut into the other end which expands when you strike the nail end. The nail is driven through to open up the 'x' thus expanding the back end. Check Brofasco or other fastener outlets to get them in needed length and width. Like mentioned prior, just drill out the end of the old rivet and punch it through. Get rivets as mentioned above the same diameter as the hole and long enough to go through the material. Insert and just use a hammer to rivet em in.

[Old Ironmaker]

We are actually rebuilding a 16' Smokercraft now. Everything that is above the floor has to come out. On both sides of the boat just ahead of the transom are alum. boxes where the steering cable run through and on the port side the electrical wiring runs through. They are riveted into the bottom and sides, that has to come off to get to the floor. That's what I thought you were referring to about the rivets. All the foam was soaked so it is bare aluminum now and the foam will be replaced.

 

Pictures are a must for any real help here.

[jimmer]

This is basically the same as my boat. All the seats and storage are riveted to the sides.

Thanks for all the advice.

Sinker: I'm not sure how you replaced the plywood without removing these items? I can see getting the plywood out, but replacing it in two pieces would be impossible.

[Sinker]

Yeah, my boat has a different layout. Its wide open to the front bench, with a split rear bench.

 

Right now my floor is pressure treated 3/4 boards. That was a lot easier and it has been a great floor!

 

Next time i will do checker plate.

 

S.

[jimmer]

Checker plate makes sense.

[DRIFTER_016]

Removing the rivets is easy. Center punch the flat side in the center and drill out with a 3/16" bit.

Replacing can be done with either the same type of rivets and a couple of hammers or with closed end blind pop rivets.

Either way use a little 3M or Sikaflex marine adhesive on the rivet before installing. It will never loosen or leak.

When I need to replace loose rivets on my boat I use these.

Scroll down to the stainless rivet with stainless mandrel section.

http://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/blind-pop-advel-rivets/closed-end-blind-rivets/

[jimmer]

Removing the rivets is easy. Center punch the flat side in the center and drill out with a 3/16" bit.

Replacing can be done with either the same type of rivets and a couple of hammers or with closed end blind pop rivets.

Either way use a little 3M or Sikaflex marine adhesive on the rivet before installing. It will never loosen or leak.

When I need to replace loose rivets on my boat I use these.

Scroll down to the stainless rivet with stainless mandrel section.

http://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/blind-pop-advel-rivets/closed-end-blind-rivets/

Thanks Drifter - that gives me something to work with. Do you think Brafasco would carry those rivets? Would a regular rivet gun work with those or do I need a heavier one?

[DRIFTER_016]

Thanks Drifter - that gives me something to work with. Do you think Brafasco would carry those rivets? Would a regular rivet gun work with those or do I need a heavier one?

 

A good quality regular rivet gun works but it's a bit of a chore.

See if you can find one of these to buy locally or rent from a tool rental place.

This one is very inexpensive @ $20 US but would not last overly long but if you just need it for the one job.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200305349_200305349

If getting a regular hand rivet tool make sure to purchase a contractor grade unit like this.

http://www.stanleytools.com/en-us/products/hand-tools/manual-fastener-tools/rivets-grommets/10-in-contractor-grade-riveter/mr100cg

 

As for the rivets I ordered mine direct from Hanson.

How many do you think you'll need?

Pretty sure I have extra at home. I'll have to look though.

Brafasco only carries the regular type of pop rivets not the closed end ones.

[jimmer]

 

A good quality regular rivet gun works but it's a bit of a chore.

See if you can find one of these to buy locally or rent from a tool rental place.

This one is very inexpensive @ $20 US but would not last overly long but if you just need it for the one job.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200305349_200305349

If getting a regular hand rivet tool make sure to purchase a contractor grade unit like this.

http://www.stanleytools.com/en-us/products/hand-tools/manual-fastener-tools/rivets-grommets/10-in-contractor-grade-riveter/mr100cg

 

As for the rivets I ordered mine direct from Hanson.

How many do you think you'll need?

Pretty sure I have extra at home. I'll have to look though.

Brafasco only carries the regular type of pop rivets not the closed end ones.

Thanks again Drifter - I would probably require about 50 of them, but don't worry about it. I can order them just as easily.

I am feeling much more confident about doing this job. This is exactly what I was hoping for from this forum!

[DRIFTER_016]

No problem Jimmer.

Good luck with the job.

Take lots of pics and keep us updated on the project.

 

FYI, if you're replacing 50 rivets get the bigger rivet tool or you'll be able to crush rocks bare handed by the time you're done!!!!

I used a large tool for the bulk of my replacements and a small one for one or two at a time replacements.

Edited May 16, 2017 by DRIFTER_016

[OhioFisherman]

OK, the picture helped me, a completely different setup than my Smokercraft was, mine was a side console. Make sure you have a decent electric jig saw.

[floater]

I redid about 300 rivets in my 14 footer last year. I found aircraft style rivets at a place on Kipling in Etobicoke. I bought the rivet tool that goes into an air gun and a bucking block. With these two tools the job was very easy too do. You will need someone on the inside of the boat, with hearing protection, to hold the bucking block. Any boxes on my floor plan were removed and just re-riveted back into place. Barley any water gets in now.

[Old Ironmaker]

To seal rivets for life use 3M 5200, it you ever intend on removing them someday 3M 4200.

 

Yes you have to remove anything that sits on the floor, the floor went in first then the benches and boxes etc. I didn't say it was easy it is however doable for someone with some nominal skills, like me. As far as what plywood to use there is a discussion where everyone seems to have an opinion. I asked the same question on iboats and received great advice. I will find the link. You are a few days away from replacing plywood.

Edited May 16, 2017 by Old Ironmaker

[jimmer]

It will be a fall project for sure.