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ATV Ratchet Straps


4x4bassin

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A couple months ago I purchased a triton atv trailer (flat bed) I have started to look around for some good ratchet straps to tie the bikes down with and I thought it would be easy but man is there a lot of crap out there , the last thing I need is a quad flying off the trailer because of some cheap straps (that would put a slight damper on the fishing trip) Anyways just asking if anyone has any info. on some good ratchet straps that are out there ?

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I'm going to have to say that "someone told me" that the safety/breaking strength of the straps has to be marked somewhere on the hardware. "Apparantely" when MTO checks, they can bone you for having inadequate tie downs. That also goes for the safety chains on trailers. Don't shoot the messenger.

 

Found it:

Use of Unmarked Tie-Downs
The cargo-securement standards do not allow the use of a tie-down, or component of a tie-down, to secure cargo to a vehicle unless it is marked by the manufacturer with respect to its working load limit.

Edited by Fisherman
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I just finished a modification on my trailer. Bolted on two 3/16" chains for the rear (rated at 1,000 lbs each). Drive the atv on, attach the chains with 1200 lb hooks. On the tongue I mounted a boat winch. Attach the winch strap, pull it in till tight. Also on the tongue is another chain & hook for a secondary attachment at the front. Hope this helps. I hate ratchet straps. They catch on everything, difficult to use with gloves on, freeze up in winter slush & snow while travelling. I was going to use the winch on my atv for the front, but my concern was the bouncing of the atv while travelling would shock load the synthetic rope on my atv winch. When shopping for this type of hardware be aware there is WLL (working load limit) & Bull (breaking strength). An 800 lb atv could easily put 2,000 lbs of "shock load" on your attachments when bouncing on the tires.

Edited by wormdunker
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You may want to consider a couple simple straps yet. My experience with trailering atvs is that I like strapping at two points (high and low) front and rear. It only takesa couple simple hand tension straps on the front and rear racks to take the bounce out of the suspension with makes a much more secure load IMO. And a very solid ratchet strap or your type system low on the frame. The bike becomes part of the trailer instead of working against eaach other at times.

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I learned MANY years ago.. anything with a battery in it you let it float where ever it wants. You strap the lower suspension down and let the vehicle move around. Otherwise it comes home with the plates in the battery shorted together. I hauled my two cars everywhere on my 34' deck trailer.... with 10,000 lb x 3" ratchet straps around the 4 tires. The cars got to bob and weave on their own suspension on the trailer.

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Wayne The bouncing I was referring to is from the tires not the suspension. B. S. refers to breaking strength of that particular component. WLL is sometimes referred to as SWL ( safe working load). The working load limit is usually a 5:1 safety factor. Therefore if a cable or strap has a breaking strength of 10,000 pounds the WLL is 2,000 pounds. Hope this clarifies things.

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I use the CTC ratchet straps but after a few years they were not working properly so I sprayed them with WD40 and now work great. I connect to all 4 corner racks and tighten them down to the trailer side racks but I found in the cold it made flat spots on my ATV tires, after driving for awhile it smoothed out :D

Like Wayne says, the extra strap flaps around. I tie the rest of the strap around the racks to the trailer. I hate to cut them because I may use them for something else. If I had welded eyes on the bed, chains with a turn buckle could be away to go. Just an idea.

Edited by Fish Farmer
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