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To Costa Rica...

 


The wife suggested it. In fact, it was all a part of her big plan. Once graduating from Ottawa University this past fall, Bren had it in mind to reward herself and the girls by packing up and heading for the sun and fun of Costa Rica. I asked... "can I come too?"

 

This would be a third trip. Not interested in Cuba or the Dominican; or really the Islands for that matter, it's the Pacific blue of Central America's coastal ranges which grab me. From busy, hustlin' and bustlin' Mexico, to sleepy and foreign Guatamala, Panama or Nicaragua, the friendly and naturally beautiful Costa Rica just makes the perfect sense for that inbetween. The girls excited to swim in the

ocean for their first time, whitewater raft, zipline, shop and horseback ride, and daddy looking forward to all that and some fishing, we booked it!!!

 

Disclaimer: to those looking for just the fishing, it happened on the final day. So if ziplining, animals, tubing, history, rafting and a whole load of adventure doesn't interest ya... scroll down through about 140 pictures and a few videos to Day 7.

 

 


Day 1. RIU HOWLERS.

 


This past Christmas was the best. For the first time in well over a decade no one had to travel or work, Santa was in da house, and on both my parent's sides everyone was together. To make it even more special, my brother and his wife had their second child, baby boy Ryan early in December, and with my nephew Jack at 1 1/2 years old, it was surely a joy to share the holidays with him. Merry Christmas fo' sho' yo!!!

 

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January 9th our family of four boarded a Sunwing flight in Toronto destined for Liberia Guanacaste, Costa Rica. Upon landing, I was pleasantly surprised to find they had built a brand new airport since last visiting, replacing the sticks and grass hut which was there five years ago. Clearing customs in minutes the family hopped aboard an awaiting bus scheduled to deliver us to the Riu Guanacaste Resort at Punta Gorda, in the Papagayo Gulf.

 

A 45 minute drive accompanied by the sightings of white-faced monkeys and some sort of raccoonly beasts, we arrived at the Riu.

 

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After a quick check-in the girls were eager to explore the resort. In moments upon stepping to a sidewalk below our balcony, I was reminded of one of the many reasons why I love Costa Rica, it's free and natural wildlife. During our short walk we were quick to spot a few other vacationers enjoying the grounds, including favorite old friends, the iguanas and howler monkeys.

 

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Yet the girls were even more excited for something else, the ocean. Pina Coladas for the parents, Pacific surf sunset for the kids, it was time to cool off.

 

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Before leaving the beach a local came by and around him a crowd gathered. During the night before he had rescued a number of sea turtles from the gulls, and during the evening dark now he returned to release them. No flash photography allowed it was still a bright experience for us all.

 

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A huge feed at the buffet, a comedy show, and some time taken to book a few of our week's excursions with the hotel's tour operator, the family was early to bed.

 

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Day 2. PALO VERDE.

 


Tour doods Eric and Jose welcomed us and a group aboard a huge decked out military truck aimed to transport all by backroads through the countryside. On route to a riverboat docked somewhere in the jungles of Palo Verde National Park, by beaten path we would first learn about how the people live, before seeing how the animals do.

 

Punta Gorda to Fildelphia to Bolson the ride took us a few hours, but along the way Eric taught us much. One thing I noticed, is that when stopping in the small villages, swarms of children did not come running for tourist handouts. Unlike other tropical countries, it is against the law for parents to not send their children to school. Education is provided by the Costa Rican Government and it is expected that all youth attend until finishing highschool. Nationally, Costa Rica's literacy rate is nearly double that of the United States, and something they should certainly take pride in. That's why the kids aren't begging, but instead learning.

 

Yet, here we were driving through these remote farmland, mountain range homes. A seemingly quiet and simple life on foot or horse for many of these people. Until turning that next dusty corner and there it would be, a school. A church, store and school make a community. And suprisingly, it didn't matter where you were, there was always community near enough by, plus highspeed internet available for the dummy devices to stay connected to.

 

Access was even much more than that. Every home, no matter where it is in Costa Rica is entitled to clean, running water, and electricity. It is the law. And to me, an incredible thing having some time spent up in Attawapiskat. A country with no National Army to pay for either, the middle-class working professional earning about $1100 per month, and a taxation system so genuinely conservative, the reality is Costa Rica is true to it's meaning "Rich Coasts," and slogan Pura Vida, being "Pure Life."

 

It was Colombus' 4rth Expedition which landed him on the shores of Costa Rica. The first Indigenous he found were clad from head-to-toe in gold and it was thought he'd hit the jackpot, except that when he returned with more European's to seek such riches he learned differently. The land had little gold at all, and neither did the people, but what it did possess is the greatest bio-diversity for an area of it's size within the world.

 

Today 46% of the country is set aside as National Park and/or Wildlife Sanctuary. The means by which energy is produced is much more environmentally friendly as well, using wind, solar and geo-thermal to meet most needs. Micro-Chip technology is the countries #1 export, followed by agricultural goods and then tourism...

 

But a most intriguing thing for me other than being able to drink the tap water most anywhere, is again their taxes. Income tax is minimal, middle-class paying somewhere in the low teens on their earnings. A person's land, house, tools, healthy foods, water and others things deemed necessary to survival are barely taxed as well, some items not at all. It is only things considered luxuries which are taxed heavily. Examples... a vehicle is taxed 87% making a $20,000 car worth $37,000. Cars are luxuries because, the bus system is both extensive, cheap and more bio-friendly. Booze and smokes are taxed up to $250%. A camera to some 40-60%. Though milk, bread and eggs are taxed at about 3%. A computer to be used towards education may be about 7%. A vehicle such as a van or bus to be used to make a living or transport many, will be taxed far less than that car mentioned, and a professional camera such as Nikon D-whatever for potential business purposes will be taxed less than a little Canon Snapshot. Bottom line, the people pay much for luxuries yet little for necessities. Thus keeping consumerism and waste to a minimum while promoting a "greener" homeland. It's a working philosophy.

 

Well... not all things are green though. This bad boy wouldn't pass an E-Test...

 

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But driving their cattle through the streets of Bolson, these Hombres here probably make up the difference.

 

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The bumpy roadtrip to Palo Verde El Viejo complete, it was time to board a riverboat and see just what birds, animals, reptiles and mammals might be spotted ahead. It's not the Toronto Zoo, not a zoo

at all, but admission is about the same.

 

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First we saw a few different birds and iguanas, then later came white-faced monkeys, crocodiles (including one about 10-12-feet long), more lizards and birds, a howler monkey, bats, insects, and some jungle mammals fishing, texting and posing along the way.

 

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Costa Rica's National Butterfly below. Just one of 17,000+ different kinds found there.

 

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An amazing initiation for the girls to the countryside and wildlife, and beat we would retreat in the truck to Bolson for a late lunch in the community center found there. Then afterwards, the trip back to the Riu for a swim, supper and an early curfew, as next day planned would require a good charge of energy.

 

Posted (edited)


Day 3. RINCON ADRENALINE.



Bren and I had visited Hacienda Guachipelin at Rincon National Park during our previous visit to Costa Rica. It was an experience we remembered to be just perfect for the girls. A fun filled, adrenaline rush as advertised, our morning would start with ziplining.

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The girls were admittedly nervous at first. Leah thought she'd get to go strapped to me but that wasn't how they operate. Summer and her both took their first runs and it was all smiles and smooth sailing from then on out. Completing the lining course, rappell and rockclimbing, the blood does get flowing.

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Video - COSTA RICA ZIPLINING. with The Red Hot Chili Peppers.



Off the volcano, over the trees & upside-down through the canyons. High on life.







Wasting no time we saddled up some horses and hit the trail. Summer's stallion was a born leader and much to her chagrin it stubbornly stayed out in front of the group the entire time. Bren and Leah brought up the rear with a couple of lame-O's. No one had to ride the oxen, but we did need a picture.

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Arriving at the volcanic mud bath and hot springs for some R&R. A busy but tranquil siesta spot.

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An incredible late lunch back at the Hacienda Guachipelin, the troop was ready to tackle a 5 kilometer stretch of rapids maybe just losing their meals during an hour of whitewater tubing. WORTH IT!!!

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Video - COSTA RICA TUBING. with Led Zeppelin.



Crushin' and rushin' through Rincon's Rio Colorado. Best tubin'evah!!!







Leaving Rincon we weren't only exhausted but exhilarated. Check the videooos!!! Summer remarked, "this is better than Disney World," and in my opinion she's right. Five minute wait times for your favorite rides and all within the jungle... not a concrete jungle full of people. Back at the Riu after filling our bellies we weren't long for sleep. Edited by Moosebunk
Posted (edited)


Day 4. COCO BEACH.



Pina Coladas, Sangrias, Mojitos... Tequila Sunrise... Imperial... just to name a few favorites. Up earlier than the girls, the day was planned as a shopping and rest day. With the sun coming up though, I managed to sneak in a little walk and snap some resort photos.

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A popular local beach often busy with many tourists is only a short 25-minute shuttle from the resort. The girls with some Christmas and allowance money burning holes in their pockets, Coco Beach was the close and easy choice to get some shopping in. Besides, I wanted some new Imperial T-shirts too, as my only one as seen in pretty much half my fishing photos is starting to breathe on it's own.

First things first... Happy Hour.

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Can't sit still for long though, we took a few hours to peruse the local tourist attraction (the beach) and browse within the local stores. Now I have six more Imperial shirts.

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Liking Coco Beach, in future we're thinking of renting a condo there for a couple weeks. In all it would be cheaper than an all-inclusive and we tend to spend more time off resort than on anyways.

Many restaurants and all the immenities can be found in Coco; or Tamarindo for that matter, and some of the rental spots are new and really well kept. Although... the Riu and Conchal resorts are excellent.

The girls got their feet wet at Coco before we made haste back to the resort pool.


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With enough evening energy, Bren and I ditched the kiddies to relax with a few drinks and take in a show. "The King Of Pop" Michael Jackson was in the house and for an hour we chilled out like Smooth Criminals stealing some time for ourselves. The MJ and dancers really had the moves, it was a great time.




Day 5. RIO TENORIO.



The gang was breaking up. Leah and Bren were planning on horseback riding later in the day, while Summer and I were off to do some whitewater rafting on the Tenorio. The girls had a leisurely start of swimming and Rummy500 before moving on to the beach to take in the local landscape of Playa Gorda and the Riu...


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As scenic and peaceful their tour of the landscape appeared to be, Summer and I would both agree that our choice was the better one. Her favorite part of the trip was to come, rafting on the Tenorio. On the river it did not seem at all like the same water Bren and I had experienced 5-years prior, but after meeting Juan and Colon, they assured it is the same stretch we'd be running. Only that, water levels are at least five feet lower now, than the bigger surge we rode on during the last trip. What did we really care? We didn't! GoPro strapped on it was time to make some memories.

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Along calmer stretches of the river we could look into the clear water and see hundreds of fish. They looked mostly like little trout... though up to maybe 18-20 inches some of them. Juan said they're bony and people don't eat them, but I can't remember what he called these fish. Supposedly they're great for sport though and locals who do that, seek them out.

The rafting proved great for sport too...


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Along the way there is one drop of serious significance. A 12-foot vertical plunge rounding a bend. Summer and I both managed to stay in the raft on our first go, except that I forgot to turn the GoPro on and capture the fall on video. Colon was cool with taking us upriver and doing it a second time. I think he was excited to do it actually.

Here's plunge one and two in pics, but it's the video that's got the best footage... and evidence too, of Summer pushing me out of the raft and then celebrating.

Round one...

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A SUCCESS!!!

Back at it to get the video... and more or less to just have fun doing it again.


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Round two...

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Summer Sabotage and Celebration.


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Extreme father and daughter fun. Juan and Colon are two amazing fellas and raftsman who make days like this safe, interesting and insanely awesome. The Rio Tenorio is a place I hope to one day visit again for more whitewater play and maybe some fishing too.

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Edited by Moosebunk
Posted


Day 6. NICARAGUA.

 


"An adventure across the border into Nicaragua, to a place full of colonial history."

 

Earliest morning wake-up call the day would be quite full with travel and sight-seeing. Crossing into the historically war torn country of Nicaragua took about an hour, partly because the toilets in the ladies washroom needed to be flushed with a pail of water, and shiznit-tickets required purchasing by the rationed sheet.

 

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A drive-thru de-lousing complete, we entered into a new country. Nicaragua today is at civil rest and safe traveling there is made much easier than days of the past. Truth is, condo properties and real estate opportunities for foreigners is on the rise, and in future hopefully Nicaragua will become a better travel destination to sun seekers. On this day we were first headed to San Juan Del Sur to visit with Jesus Christ upon the hill top at Casa Del Soul.

 

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The Holy one has himself quite a view from up there. Dood can actually see Australia and he's quite willing to point you towards that "other" land down under.

 

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Pretty cool dood actually. He's been around awhile and done lots of good stuff. In all honesty, San Juan and the statue have been enjoying the Pacific breezes since some time during the 1500's. It's enough cause to "pray some respects."

 

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And the thing about such religious experiences is, it's catching....

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... because next thing ya know everyone is basking in the Holy Heavenliness.

 

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From below the statue at Casa Del Soul overlooking San Juan Del Sur is quite a stunning view. And on the beach it kinda feels like a different world.

 

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Next stop would take us to Granada on Lake Nicaragua. Now we can't do the architecture the justice it deserves here, so punch Granada Nicaragua into Google Images if you want to see some serious old buildings and a charred-up church. Otherwise, look here at those same things plus the interesting city streets, or scroll down real fast to get back to Costa Rica.

 

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The kids were kinda mostly bored out of their minds though. It was a long tiring day.

 

Back at the resort Bren and I tried one of the tough to reserve a la carte restaurants. Ordering two appetizers and eating every bite of the delectable 5-course meal, my gut stretched out so far it hurt to breathe, and walking up stairs back to our room made me cry.

 

 


Day 7. PAPAGAYO.

 


Through the Riu, "Hotel Beds" takes care of bigger excursion bookings while "Scuba Caribe" handles the beach and watersports shhhtuff. Hotel Beds was great to deal with but for the fishing Scuba Caribe was rather awkward... yet so was I with them, sort of.

 

Had hoped to book a full day of deep sea fishing and half day for inshore roosters. It was actually the roosterfish I wanted more than anything else, having caught a sailfish, marlin and big wahoo on previous trips. That said, deep sea could pick me up any of those three monsters again plus maybe a new species like a big yellowfin tuna or mahi mahi, and there'd be nothing wrong with that.

 

But, if able to find a partner to split costs for at least one full day deep sea or full day of inshore roosters, I'd then book two full days to fish. Each day beforehand I checked in with Scuba Caribe and also let them know when I'd pay and make my final decision. The dood I was dealing with kept saying "no problem, you have a boat booked for the Monday and Tuesday (the final two days) and it's reserved for you."

 

No one to partner up with I decided Saturday night to see them. It's then I find out because I didn't pay up they gave the boat away for the Monday. A group snaked me out of my "no problem reservation" by paying up sometime in the last day. So, while I'm in office thinking of a new plan and considering shelling out a little extra cash for a different boat to book, the guy gets on the phone to be sure I'm good with the original boat for tuesday... BUT, that's when he finds out that boat suffered some damage on the water earlier this day, and would be out of commission for two or three days. Ha-Ha for the people who snaked me, but now I have nothing reserved at all either.

 

End result was I booked a boat for the Tuesday and Bren would join me. A full day. The girls would play pool-side and on the beach, and enjoy the buffet and freedom. I could decide in the meantime if headed to the deep sea or staying in for roosters.

 

Tuesday morning comes and we meet the boat on the beach. The decision of deep sea versus inshore is apparently made for me, as this style of 27-foot boat is not a boat suitable to brave the big offshore, nor will they drive this 110-diesel inboard with any gusto to get it out there because of a wimpy (but welcome) canopy over the deck.

 

Coupled with the fact that there's no outriggers, the limited tackle is stored in an average sized Plano tacklebox, there's no fighting chair or belts, and with the exception of one OK rod & reel set-up the other two big fish rods are junk and spooled with the like, I'm seriously wondering what I paid for. There's two other rods in the boat as well, both are M-H TDR spinning rods with barely operable low-end Shimano reels. Yeah... spinning rods??? Whada?!? I brave a happy face awhile, take deep breaths and enjoy the "inshore" scenery, and accept the deep sea will have to wait ti'll next time.

 

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Now truth is I hadn't learned all about the gear and tackle right away. These were discoveries throughout time. The morning was really quite a positive vibe. Bren with me, the two boat mates nice young lads, spotting black jack and bonito schools busting the surface, manta rays jumping all over, dolphins and sea turtles cruising by at variable speeds, fresh pineapple and melon, and a tropical coastline to blow your minds eye. Inshore fishing certainly has more to offer the sight-seer than driving 15 miles out to the continental shelf to reach 1500 feet.

 

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We had actually been fishing only minutes before a bonito of about 5 or 6 pounds hit a lure on a spinning outfit. That's when 10-pound mono on light-ish gear fighting an ocean fish twice the strength of a similar sized smallie became a great idea. Through the day we'd pick up five more bonito tuna too, four of them on the light sticks. Ocean fish have incredible power.

 

With that first bonito the guide rigged it up live to use as bait. Already at a favorite rooster spot, he no sooner began slow trolling it behind the boat for a couple minutes did a big roosterfish blow up on the bait twice, lay chase on the surface, and finally take the bonito. A shortened free spool ten count before finally setting the hook... and the line snapped! Tough loss... but, seeing the team in action, having a rooster hit so soon in the day, and knowing that bonitos are on the menu, I felt confident there would be more fish.

 

Things wound down a time though. We got another couple bonitos. Trolling shoreline it gave a chance to get to know these two loco doods, John the driver (I call him Bob Marley) and Favian the Captain. Favian has 10 years sportfishing and commercial fishing under his belt and was born and raised in Coco Beach. I quickly understood he has that true passion for fishing which exists in many of us, and he one day hopes to have his own boat. For now though, he would settle on some decent gear. I did tell him that his boss should be providing better, and not the junk that is onboard. A third of the hooks needed a good sharpening and Favian was sometimes making flies out of pieces cut off from other lures. I could never fault him or John regardless of the days fishing results, for they tried hard for fish.

 

John (left) & Favian. Two cool doods I gotta say.

 

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We worked off a connection of islands and reef found at the end of a long point. A couple other boats could be found there too. We didn't have to get far from shore before the ocean's waves made

things quite unnerving. The area had actually seen a few days now of higher winds not typical with the season. Deep sea might have been a no-go anyways, and we didn't actually see any other boats venture out.

 

Unable to stay too far offshore, the prime spots we worked inside cruised us onto an active school of needlefish. Saltwater gar one could call them.

 

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Favian tied a 9 lb. cannonball to a 20 ft. length of 100 lb. test mono and tied it off to a cleat. He wished his boss would buy proper riggers but the kid made do, and each time he just hand-lined that ball up and down while Bob Marley was jammin' us along at 5-6 mph. At the business end of the line on the rigger, an orange saltwater Rapala was doing the most damage. It picked up all seven of the needlefish we caught and the last of six bonitos on the day.

 

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A line ripped during needlefishfest and Favian called out "BIG CUDA." It promptly bit off. But soon after the rigger rod fired with a good scream, and I stepped up to fight with one tougher fish. Some good doggin' and quick runs, before long I had my first yellowfin tuna. Not a biggy by any means, but a good fighting fish and a pleasant surprise.

 

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A couple hours later and it was all nearing an end. On route back to the Riu we stopped just a minute after Favian spotted a flock of birds. "Good current here," he said, "mahi mahi like current we might get one." He no sooner had a line out did we smoke a wicked ripper. I played it for a half a minute or so and then it just popped off. Fiznackers!!! Lost a rooster, cuda and mahi mahi now... along with the one tuna, seven needlefish, six bonitos, and half a dozen other fish we lost, we could have had a banner day. These guys really, really need sharper hooks on newer baits, fresh line, proper riggers, more tackle and better rods & reels. A thirteen fish day was good, but most of the biggys got the better of us because they seem to know how to exploit gear weaknesses.

"Everything is gonna be alright. Pura Vida," says Bob Marley John. And he was bang on with that too. Good guys to hang out with all day, and good experience overall. I'd love to one day travel to Costa Rica for a week just to fish... Quepos, Golfito, or some place like that.


The girls were glad to see us back on the beach and before long we were all rinsing off the salt in the pool with a drink in hand. Pure Life, "Pura Vida" they say.

 

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That'd be it for this trip. Family first! Likely the most memorable and fun trip we've ever taken together. The girls are growing like weeds and everyday that passes is another day we can't get back. All will never forget these seven days.

 

Costa Rica will positively blow the mind. For families, couples, singles or friends traveling there, one can find so much to do and see it is ridiculous. Once you go you will only want to keep going back. It is friendly, safe, clean and rich. There's something for everyone.

 


Bunk.

Posted

Great report Moose !

 

Boy did that ever bring back memories ... I was there about a year ago ... how'd you like the drive up the wrong side of the highway to beat the border crossing at Nicaragua ... 20+ miles of 18 wheelers waiting for the border to open at 8am? wasnt until we got there that we realized why it was so important to get there before 8 ... there was another 20 miles of trucks waiting on the Nicaragua side to come south ... we'd have been there all day !

 

 

we also fished in Nicaragua off a small boat right at the beach at San Juan Del Sur ... inshore.

 

 

Our best fishing day was right at Coco beach back in Costa Rica... off big 40 foot boat with riggers and all the right gear - and yes a fighting chair ... dont think it even cost us $100 for a full day and they took us out a good 20 + miles and worked their butts off as we gave up on the billfish and started into 30+ lb groupers one after another (about 10 of them) in about 300 feet of water -

Posted

Everyone's slow to get in, and in a rush to get out. :lol: Sounded busy for you though.

 

There was only me to foot the entire bill on the fishing and I certainly paid more than $100. This was the first charter in 3 trips that the boat and gear was a let down and the fishing was "good" and not "great." Still caught quite a few, the guides were great guys, and it was a fun day on the water. Thinking had I not been forced into rushing the decision it could have been different. Booking out of Coco (like I had Tamarindo and Flamingo in the past) without using the resort services, would probably have been better. This trip though, a fishing excursion for me took a backseat to a number of other things first planned for the girls. Next trip back may be for fishing only... whenever that will be.

 

BTW... this new OFC format is a tad bit screwy... :whistling: Just sayin.

 

Great report Moose !

 

how'd you like the drive up the wrong side of the highway to beat the border crossing at Nicaragua... we'd have been there all day !

 

... cost us $100 for a full day.

Posted

Looked a LOT better than hangin out in Perth! :w00t:

 

Looks like my Leah and I had better get down there quick. A new airport terminal is the first sign of the place going to tourist hell....

Posted

Took me 2 coffee's to get thru that trip MB, but it was well worth it.

 

Thanks for taking us along !!

Posted

Awesome stuff - famliy, sun, fun fishin' and warmth - as it sit looking at minus stooopid degree windchill temps today.

May just have to try that out one of these cold winter months some time soon - and that river rafting looks like a hoot

Posted

Looked a LOT better than hangin out in Perth! :w00t:

 

Looks like my Leah and I had better get down there quick. A new airport terminal is the first sign of the place going to tourist hell....

 

 

How true is that Wayne. In the last 10 years around Liberia the place has seemingly grown up exponentially. New tourism businesses and real estate opportunities popping up everywhere in the area. It's good for them in a way.

 

 

Hopefully some winter fishing will make the next one 3 coffees Lew.

 

 

Home now and getting caught up things... starting with a head cold for the cold.

 

 

Thanks again gang.

Posted

Great report, pics and video Drew. Granada looks so clean and neat. I'd love to go on a trip like that one of these day!!

Posted

~~~~As usual bud another fantastic story and adventure, love the Zip lining, and the shots of you guys hanging upside down, if I tried that I think there would be a trail of cookies along that path. Thanks for sharing your family trip with us

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