Big Cliff Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 Big Cliff, repeat after me. Right or wrong, Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. As for my opinion, I have a grass trimmer,lawn mower,2 gas augers,snow blower,snow mobile,and 2 outboard boats that all run like a top since I took your advise. :thumbsup_anim: Thanks Big Cliff!!! Dann Thanks Dann but what he was refering to was the lubrication process of a two stroke and he is totally right! I was talking with a friend on the phone when I typed my response and should have read what I had typed before I hit the submit button LOL.
ecmilley Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 what i have done in the past is pull it over 2-3 times with the choke on and ignition off, then flip the switch and pull usually fires right up. sounds like you may have a stuck needle and seat though not enough fuel flow to get it going
spud7378 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Posted February 14, 2012 should i take this thing back to jiffy before the warrenty runs out? it only a few months old
GYPSY400 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Posted February 14, 2012 Sorry total brain fart on my part, of course you are right! Don't know what I was thinking when I made that comment! Sorry for having to correct you, but I just had to in the nicest way I could think of.. I know your a knowledgable guy and other members seem to value your opinion so i'd hate to see someone get some bad information from you. I've been a mechanic for 15 years, I have the odd brain fart too!
GYPSY400 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Posted February 14, 2012 should i take this thing back to jiffy before the warrenty runs out? it only a few months old I would, that's what the warranty is for.. If you try fiddling with it, they may deny your warranty on future issues.
wormdunker Posted February 14, 2012 Report Posted February 14, 2012 I also have a jiffy (2hp) which is 5 years old with starting/running problems. What my mechanic discovered was - gas was leaking out of the vent screw on the gas tank as I was drilling holes. As the gas dripped down it was being sucked into the carburetor, soaking the foam air filter which in turned was causing it to run as though it had full choke. He put in a new O ring where the carb is mounted to the machine, a new fuel line (old line was soft). He suggested I only pour in 1/2 a tank of gas to avoid spillage. He also turned up the idle just a bit. My new starting procedure is to put on full choke, 1 or 2 pulls (till it coughs),set choke to 1/2 choke, pull cord 1 maybe 2 times. My auger starts right away. Let it warm up at 1/2 choke, as it warms up be ready to turn the choke off. I also close the vent screw on the gas tank to avoid gas dripping down to the carb/air intake. I must open the vent screw after I auger 2 holes while it is idling. Then close the screw, auger a couple of holes, then open the screw once again. I know the operator's manual says to turn the choke off after the inital cough with the choke on full. Their procedure does not work on my machine. Hope this info helps U get more fishing in rather than fight with an auger.
Big Cliff Posted February 14, 2012 Report Posted February 14, 2012 Sorry for having to correct you, but I just had to in the nicest way I could think of.. I know your a knowledgable guy and other members seem to value your opinion so i'd hate to see someone get some bad information from you. I've been a mechanic for 15 years, I have the odd brain fart too! No, I'm glad you did correct me and you did it very professionally! I'd hate to give anyone bad information too, in the future I'll read what I've typed before I hit that send button LOL. Hope to meet up with you one day and buy you a cold one (or hot one as the case may be).
ch312 Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Posted February 15, 2012 it seems much easier to start after i poured half the gas out of the tank? but, this is also at room temperature so i'll have to put it out in the cold for a while to see if it still starts good under normal conditions. hopefully she gets better with age
Freshtrax Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Premium has zero ethanol in it. You don't need it for the octane rating just the no ethanol factor 2strokes and ethanol don't play nice
skeeter Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Gypsy400, I apologize for jumping on you so fast. Big Ciff was wrong and you corrected him.
Tybo Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 So whats the reasoning behind having no ethanol and running a higher octane?
Freshtrax Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 (edited) The fuel with ethanol I find dosent have the same "shelf life". 30days or so is all I trust it .. So in a chainsaw that gets used once or twice a year can gum up carbs. Or in a boat that dosent get used everyweekend. I have found with experiance running ethanol free fuel in all my 2strokes cuts down on carb matinence considerably. The higer octane rating is in most cases not needed but premium fuel is the only ethanol free fuel I can find Edited February 16, 2012 by Freshtrax
Tybo Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 So a gasoline that is filled with detergents that break down the lubricant properties of gas is going to last longer, then a gas with a natural ingredient.
Freshtrax Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 (edited) Hey man sounds like you've already have an opinion on this subject. You asked. I don't know why but I do know you put ethanol fuel in your boat I'll but no corn in mine... Let them sit for a month or so. Mine will run better. I think the lubricating properties of the fuel are outweighed by the oil you mix it with. Edited February 16, 2012 by Freshtrax
Freshtrax Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Well I figuerd I should find out why. A little digging this is what I found.. I know kinda off topic.. http://www.fuel-testers.com/expiration_of_ethanol_gas.html Ethanol is hydroscopic
Tybo Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Just crunch some numbers using the text you added. Ethanol based E-10 by it's self can only absorb 0.0130 of a gallon of water.That's at 7000 parts per 1.000.000 This is a far cry from 0.5% you need for separation.
Sinker Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Well I'll run my ethanol free fuel thru everything I have, and you run your corn gas thru your stuff, and we'll all be happy. I'd rather not have to worry about it, thanks. Most premium fuel still has ethanol folks. The only fuel I can find with NO ethanol is Shell V-power. I run it in everything. S.
wormdunker Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Well I'll run my ethanol free fuel thru everything I have, and you run your corn gas thru your stuff, and we'll all be happy. I'd rather not have to worry about it, thanks. Most premium fuel still has ethanol folks. The only fuel I can find with NO ethanol is Shell V-power. I run it in everything. S. X2 Only Shell for my outdoor toyz
Tybo Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 It's the condensation build up in the fuel tank. Since most fuel tanks are built of metal you are going to get condensation. With E-10 absorbing water you will get a little more condensation in the tank. All fuels that have been stored for more then 3 months should be changed. Now running a higher octane fuel in a engine that's not designed for it is bad.The higher the octane the more compression.Which is really hard on the rings.which can cause premature wearing or crack the rings. Engines designed for high octane have stronger rings and valves.
Garnet Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Quit fussing with it. Bay Sports is in North Bay distributor of Jiffy.
Freshtrax Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Tybo. That's wrong. Higer octane fuel is made for higher compression engine's, it does not and can not affect the compression of an engine that would require an alteration in the dimensions of the the bore, stroke or cylinderhead. An octane rating is a numerical figure that relates to how much squish can applied to the fuel before it detonates due to compression. If this happens (running regular in a hi-comp. Motor). The fuel detonates while the piston is still moving upwards... The damage is like a head on collision and results in cracked pistons, bent conecting rods and cylinder head damage. Not trying to be a dick tybo but the statement you made is wrong. No damage can occur from running a higer octane rating than nessacary except to wallet.
Freshtrax Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Ps. Original poster. Take it to a dealer if its under warenty. That's what its for
Tybo Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Higher octane level makes the combustion chamber run cooler.The cooler the chamber the denser the air and or fuel if carburated. increasing combustion at TDC. In turn creates a higher combustion ratio.This only happens in engine that are made to run 87 octane not high compression engines. in a car engine it will automatically idiot you timing for this problem.Engines with out self timing it could be detrimental.
Sinker Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Ok, I have an 18 year old outboard that has only seen premium fuel. NEVER an issue. We have a jiffy auger that is over 20 yrs old, nothing but premium. Never an issue. Have multiple chainsaws, nothing but premium, NEVER an issue. Weed whacker, generators, ATV's, Snowmobiles.....you get the point. I've never in my life had a fuel related issue. Ever. Period. Never blown a motor, never, ever had an issue running premium, so I'll stick to it. S.
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