ch312 Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 last year i bought a new jiffy 3500 stealth stx and did the break in properly. i didn't use it very much last season, but it did have starting problems. last week i get it out of storage and it fires up almost right away, but when i went fishing this week it was a huge PITA to get this thing started. considering it's had less than a half tank of gas through it, i'm rather annoyed by this practically new machine. it should only take max 2-3 pulls to get it started. any tips?
mike rousseau Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 Maybe the gas sat too long... Half tank over 1.5 winters... Did you put any stabilizer in it?
Skipper D Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 (edited) Our jiffy works real good now since we started using Orvil Breadenbocker in it ....... ......... sorry i just had to on a day like this . Edited February 10, 2012 by Skipper " D "
troutologist Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 Even with stabilizer in my Jiffy I find I need to put new gas in it at the start of each year to get it to run right. New gas, a little Sea Foam and it should run a lot better.
Lip-ripper Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 I've seen this alot with newer Jiffy's... they aren't like the old ones. Drain it and try premium fuel, that may help.
Nipfisher Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 I had problems (with an older one) a few years ago and took it in for a service. It started and ran fine for the guy in the shop. He said it was likely the significant temp. change from my warm garage to the fishing spot. He says condensation gets into the gas with all the temp changes. I would try new gas and stabilizer, also letting the auger adjust to the cold temps before using it.
Big Cliff Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 Yup, even stabilizer is only good for about 6 months (even though they claim UP TO TWO YEARS)the key word being up to Drain your fuel out of it, put fresh fuel in it, it might still be a little hard to start the first time but should be ok after that.
Bluegill Posted February 11, 2012 Report Posted February 11, 2012 last year i bought a new jiffy 3500 stealth stx and did the break in properly. i didn't use it very much last season, but it did have starting problems. last week i get it out of storage and it fires up almost right away, but when i went fishing this week it was a huge PITA to get this thing started. considering it's had less than a half tank of gas through it, i'm rather annoyed by this practically new machine. it should only take max 2-3 pulls to get it started. any tips? I also use the gas from last season never a problem with that. But maybe it can help to read about how I handle my Jiffy starting problems.
camillj Posted February 11, 2012 Report Posted February 11, 2012 Probably wouldnt hurt starting it up once in a while too ... just to keep the plugs and carb clear of 'gunk' ...gas motors don't like sitting around for months at a time without being run for at least a few minutes
skeeter99 Posted February 11, 2012 Report Posted February 11, 2012 (edited) I've seen this alot with newer Jiffy's... they aren't like the old ones. Drain it and try premium fuel, that may help. everytime Edited February 11, 2012 by skeeter99
spooner_jr Posted February 11, 2012 Report Posted February 11, 2012 I've had issues with my Jiffy since I got it 3 years ago. This year I read on-line that the carburetor should be adjusted with the engine warm, but outside in the cold. I did that a few weeks back and it now runs like a top.
Big Cliff Posted February 11, 2012 Report Posted February 11, 2012 Just be careful when adjusting the carbs on any two stroke, too lean and the engine will run better than it ever has but not for long, the engine gets it's lubrication from the unspent fuel getting past the rings and into the crank case. If you lean it out too much then you don't get enough lubrication and you can take the piston, rings and cylinder out of an engine very quickly. To do it properly it should be done with a tachometer to Manufacturers specifications. If you are going to do it by ear (not the best way) once you get the high speed adjusted, open it up a little more (counter clockwise)just until you hear it start to hesitate a little. You will hear the RPMs start to drop as you open the high speed jet, keep going (won't take much) and you'll hear it change from the wine. That is where you want it if you want that engine to last. I have done it this way in the past and know lots of mechanics that do but I really prefer to use the tachometer to get the best performance out of an engine.
spud7378 Posted February 12, 2012 Report Posted February 12, 2012 my jiffy is only new since xmas, ive had problems with it as well, i found it to be the gas cap, the new ones dont have the needle valve.
FishAbout Posted February 12, 2012 Report Posted February 12, 2012 I run mine out of gas everyfall. Doing this the carb will not gum up. Put stabilizer in the gas also. No problems yet with mine. Use only high test gas and a good high quality 2 stroke oil also.
Big Cliff Posted February 12, 2012 Report Posted February 12, 2012 (edited) I run mine out of gas everyfall. Doing this the carb will not gum up. Put stabilizer in the gas also. No problems yet with mine. Use only high test gas and a good high quality 2 stroke oil also. No, the carb won't gum up but the diaphram can dry out and it will shorten the life of it. Old school was run em dry. Now it is recommended to use a good quality stabilizer and store them with the tank full. Edited February 12, 2012 by Big Cliff
ch312 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Posted February 12, 2012 it has burnt 1/2 a tank of gas since new and was drained for storage, so there hasn't been a chance for any buildup at all and i am using fresh gas that's mixed properly. this engine should be like new on the inside. i do remember having problems the couple times i had it out on the ice last season which rules out storage causing the problem. new plug makes zero difference. trying every way possible to start it doesn't work. 20 pulls to get a new machine started sucks...
Fisherman Posted February 12, 2012 Report Posted February 12, 2012 Stiff diaphram won't allow the little metal tip on the diaphram to activate the needle valve and allow enough gas to flow.
spud7378 Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) @fisherman, any ideas on how to fix the problem? or should i be sending jiffy an email stating the problem? and try to get it fixed before warranty is up? It seems like that both myself and ch312 are having the same problem Also to the guys that are stating use premium fuel, the book says dont, so who is right is it better or will it damage the unit? thanks Edited February 13, 2012 by spud7378
FishAbout Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) I will still run them out of fuel. I drain the carbs on the sled also and 2 stroke outboard motors. Have never had a problem and been doing this for years. The material used in diaphrams now is better then what it used it be. When you buy a auger it has no gas in it and it could of sat on the shelf for 2 years or in a warehouse and they are still fine. Its up to the person but with the gas now days why would you want a few litres of gas sitting in the tank. They say that gas now days only holds it octane rating for 3 weeks now, this is coming from the mercury course I just took. Stablizer helps it to stay longer. The sta-bil brand stabilizer is not the best there is out there. Its made up of alcohol which does not help with ethonal separtion. Mercury stabilizer is not made up from achohol. Edited February 13, 2012 by Fishabout
Fisherman Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) @fisherman, any ideas on how to fix the problem? or should i be sending jiffy an email stating the problem? and try to get it fixed before warranty is up? It seems like that both myself and ch312 are having the same problem Also to the guys that are stating use premium fuel, the book says dont, so who is right is it better or will it damage the unit? thanks Check around and see where your local Jiffy repair shop is. A lot of small engine shops can do it. If you wish to do it yourself, you'll find a number or letter/number identifier on the side of carb mount. (Mine has an "F") Take that to the shop along with the engine serial/model number, they will give you the diaphram. Ask specifically which way the diaphram goes. One side has a larger diameter disk than the other, it's important. I have a 1991 Jiffy 3HP, I've changed the diaphram 3 times, in 20 years, they get brittle. Secondly, I just use regular gas with Amsoil synthetic, I mix at 50:1. I only mix a litre at a time, I have never ever used more than 2 litres in a whole winter. No point in letting gas get stale, I find it's easier to make small fresh batches. Good luck. Edited February 13, 2012 by Fisherman
GYPSY400 Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 the engine gets it's lubrication from the unspent fuel getting past the rings and into the crank case. This statement is unfortunately totally untrue.. What you are describing is " blow-by" which happens on worn out four stroke engines.. If this was the case on a 2-stroke, it would not run. 2 stroke engines get their lubrication from the gas/oil mix entering the crank-case (crankshaft) first, then travelling up to the cylinder via the piston ports to be burned.. A good way to view this is to look at a 2-stroke outboard and note where the Carburator, crankshaft (flywheel) and spark plugs are located. Sooo, in regards to running a 2-stroke dry for the season... Yes, some guys do, and some guys don't .. It's good in regards to getting the carburator dry, ( which doesn't totally get dry) but it also runs the crank bearings dry.. So IMO , park it for the season with a full tank of premium fuel, with added stabilizer .. Remember to run the engine for about 10 minutes to get the stabilizer throughout the whole fuel system before storing it..
Big Cliff Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 This statement is unfortunately totally untrue.. What you are describing is " blow-by" which happens on worn out four stroke engines.. If this was the case on a 2-stroke, it would not run. 2 stroke engines get their lubrication from the gas/oil mix entering the crank-case (crankshaft) first, then travelling up to the cylinder via the piston ports to be burned.. A good way to view this is to look at a 2-stroke outboard and note where the Carburator, crankshaft (flywheel) and spark plugs are located. Sooo, in regards to running a 2-stroke dry for the season... Yes, some guys do, and some guys don't .. It's good in regards to getting the carburator dry, ( which doesn't totally get dry) but it also runs the crank bearings dry.. So IMO , park it for the season with a full tank of premium fuel, with added stabilizer .. Remember to run the engine for about 10 minutes to get the stabilizer throughout the whole fuel system before storing it.. Sorry total brain fart on my part, of course you are right! Don't know what I was thinking when I made that comment!
skeeter Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 Big Cliff, repeat after me. Right or wrong, Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. As for my opinion, I have a grass trimmer,lawn mower,2 gas augers,snow blower,snow mobile,and 2 outboard boats that all run like a top since I took your advise. :thumbsup_anim: Thanks Big Cliff!!! Dann
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