Soldering help or suggestions

[dsn]

Hi,

 

I'm trying to put the final touches on my chum can I'm working on. I'm trying to solder a bolt onto the bottom of the lid. But it just won't solder on. I sanded both surfaces and even used soldering flux on the bolt and the lid. The solder won't stick onto the bolt.

 

 

Any suggestions?

 

I'm planning to take this thingy out this coming Friday. I made 3 other ones and gave then away and the bolt stuck on those. But this one seems to be stubborn. This is the second bolt I bought for this can. Cause the first one didn't work. The first one had like a washer in it. But this one doesn't

 

Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

 

 

dsn

Edited February 14, 2007 by dsn

[urbanangler1990]

huh, r u speaking english? srry no help from me, maybe someone else...

[Clampet]

Wall, now..

First you have ta make sure the can is tin, and not aluminum.

 

Then it is a question of molecular physics.

Go dig out the tome, I'll wait.

Now, while your'e digging that out, Ya's gots ta make sure the connection, in this case the can, reaches a hot enough temperature for the molecules in the solder to meld with the molecules of the tin can. Ya might want to use a hotter heat source other than the soldering iron to get the can hot enough, due to the large interspacial surface area of said tin can. You will know the can is hot enough when it melts the solder, or a hole burns through it.

 

Are you using rosen core sodder?

 

Jetho Bodeen assisted me on this one.

[tjsa]

Must be a different alloy in that bolt dsn. Are you using the same type of bolt to solder to?? Is it stainless??

Or maybe the coating on this one is just a little thicker than the others. Might just be it takes a little bit more heat to cause it to be able to be "tinned" with lead, or a bit more aggressive sanding of the surface.

[dsn]

Well the soler did melt on the can. Thats no problem, its the bolt. I tried finding a rusty bolt but they don't sell rusty bolts.

 

It does look like stainless steel. But I did manage to sand some fillings off just wonder how much?

 

Clampet, your too technical for me.

 

 

dsn

[douG]

In order to solder two pieces together, first they must be tinned. This means that they must be clean, and hot enough to melt solder. You will need a propane or MAP torch for this (and pliers). Figger out how to wet the joining surfaces with solder - this will take careful attention to surface prep (sanding), flux, heat (don't scorch the flux because then you will have to prep the surface again), and judicious app of solder. Use the solder to indicate the temp of your bolt; keep touching the slobber to the bolt until it just begins to melt. Brush some flux on the joint, and try to maintain the temp at the point where the solder flows and wets, but doesn';t scorch. Once both surfaces are wetted with solder (tinned), join them mechanically with wire or something so the joint is tight and won't move.

 

Then, and only then, ,heat up the whole works with your torch (testing temp again with the solid solder), and when it just begins to flow, run the slobber to it.

 

3 or 4 times, you oughta get the hang.

 

Good luck, and hope this hleps.

[Clampet]

Do we need to solder?

Can we use an alternative method of joining the two in matrimony?

How about drilling a hole and incorporate a washer...something like that

[dsn]

I was afraid of that douG.

 

The last can I did, was alot easier.

I guess I will have to put holes on the lid. And use wire to scure the bolt to the lid. Then solder the thing.

 

 

Thanks for the all the help.

 

I'll let you know how it goes.

 

dsn

[Daplumma]

Sometimes with harder metals than copper we use silver solder or silphos(sp).It does not require as much prep but needs more heat.It comes in a stick like brazing rods but does not require as much heat as them.good luck.

Joe

[SBCregal]

JB weld!!!

[BITEME]

JB WELD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Fishandchips]

drill it and use a washer and nut?? or does it have to be soldered.if you can't get a regular nut on try a butterfly nut and washer ,just have to drill the hole big enough to get the nut through,hope i could help, Brian

[Fishn Technishn]

Drill a few small holes in the can(I said SMALL), put lots onto head of bolt, and use either JB WELD or 5 minute epoxy. If you mixed it correctly I DARE you to get them apart after they dry the proper amount of time!

 

FT

[bassjnkie]

Show a picture and I can probably help you out.

[douG]

Ya, why solder? Sand, clean and dry the mating surfaces, and then the JB weld. That'll work.

[Tybo]

JB weld disolve in water.

It's not going to happen over night.

But it will.

[Bernie]

About 10 years ago I resurrected an old 3HP Johnson out of our scrap pile. Siezed piston. Got the piston out and discovered a mean score in the cylinder wall. Wasnt worth a rebore and a new piston so on goes the JB weld as an experiment. Put it on the test tank after the repair and let it run for a couple hours. Still use it for the trip to the duck blind in the fall. Amazing stuff. Dont think I would try it on a larger cylinder bore. The quick set JB is not near as effective.

[aplumma]

Ask any A/c shop for the silfloss they can sell you a stick of it and you should be good to go. J b weld does not bond to smooth surfaces so make sure you rough it up pretty good before you try it. I have found it to work poorly on items that have shearing pressure. It does work well for filling issues and large surface areas that are not subject to water or freezing temps.

 

Art