Boat stereo

[bigfish1965]

I'll be adding some tunes to the bigfish express this spring and was wondering what you guys did?

I was thinking of doing the following.

I have a compartment and the hatch is only half the width of the compartment itself (as you can see in the picture).

I was going to mount the stereo inside that compartment under the non-opening deck. This would offer some protection from the elements. I also am looking at getting a stereo that takes SD cards for music. This gets rid of any chance for skipping while in waves. I would also likely have to use smaller boxed speakers rather than cutting up the back of the front bench seats.

Should I get a 'waterproof' stereo (rather costly) or a mid-level regular car stereo (about 1/3 the cost) and take my chances? I will attach the antennae lead directly to the boat to use the boat as the antennae. My circuit breaker panel has one empty circuit left on it.

[Greencoachdog]

You might be ok with just an automotive stereo Rick, but here's a pretty good deal on a marine grade stereo.

 

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/template...;reposting=true

 

... or you may want to consider this one:

 

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.Tex...arTarget=browse

Edited January 28, 2007 by Greencoachdog

[Whopper]

Dang Rick I would have thought Dougle with his instrument would have been enough entertainment

 

 

Whopper

[Tybo]

Rick, When installing your tunes make sure there is a ground too the boat

and you batt same with your antennatia to boat. this will give you better reseption.

Also this will help to prevent a short if your speaker get wet.

You have to buy waterproof.All the vital components are better insulated

from the elements.

A bad short could and will take out costly electical components on your engine.

EG: stater.

[SlowPoke]

Hey Rick, why do you need a radio? Can't you tap into to your wireless bow to stern network for mp3 playback?

 

I'd be inclined to go with a regular headunit versus a marine headunit and apply the leftover money to a removeable mount. This one has room for an an iPod as well, might be a good place for a cell phone too.

Radio Mount

Another thing to consider is under-mounting this unit beneath your bow mount (near a battery I assume) and install a headunit with a remote... utilize dead space and protection from the elements.

-Brian

[Fisherman]

Well, grounding to the boat is contrary to what I have been informed of, all lights and other electronic options always run ground wires directly to the battery to prevent electrolysis on aluminum boats. I would be more inclined to mount the stereo unit in a dry box with a good set of electrical connectors for speakers and power. That way, at the end of the day or when things get foggy, or damp overnight, you have a dry stereo.

[Tybo]

The non frriouss plates on your boat and motor( yes I said motor)will

take care of that proplem.

you have to go to batt and boat.

[bucktail]

Can I HIGHLY suggest getting a satelite radio. I have one on my boat and it is awesome! Up near the french this fall listening to the Colts game. Or in Pointe Au Baril listening to Dave Attell on the comedy station.

I have Jensen waterproof 7 band marine radio and I take out my car Sirius radio and plug it into a 12 volt plug I installed.

Also go on ebay and look the radio I have is 394$ at BPS and I got it for 99$ new plus 20$ shipping and 30$ dutie.

Edited January 28, 2007 by bucktail

[Gerritt]

Rick, There is a waterproof enclosure specifically made for this purpose. You can use any single DIN car stereo with it. I will dig up the link and post if for you.

 

 

Here it is

 

http://www.rocktheboataudio.com/cart.cgi?a...yword=enclosure

 

 

Gerritt.

Edited January 28, 2007 by Gerritt

[aplumma]

Rick I have a radio that is for auto use located in the front enclosure were I stand to fish. It has a plastic cover that retracts that you can get from overtons for about $24.00. The speakers are marine grade because the damp and fog make regular speakers soggy in a short time. The reason for the plastic cover is that I have a small remote that I use to control it from thru out the boat. The antenna is a short whip that is seperate from the boat and the electrical. Even with anodes and diodes on the electrical system you need to ground with a lead back to the battery. Without it you are allowing natural and leakage from other boats electrical systems access to your electronics. Just because a bolt of lightning hits a mile away it is enough to destroy your electronics.

 

Art

[Rizzo]

I sing to myself. Give me half the stereo money Rick and I'll serenade you while fishing.

[Greencoachdog]

Just because a bolt of lightning hits a mile away it is enough to destroy your electronics.

 

Art

 

I've seen that happen firsthand! I was out on a charter boat in the Gulf of Mexico when a bolt of lightning the water prolly 5 miles away and it fried that Captains Auto-Pilot!... nothing else, but the A-P was toast... it might have just been a fuse, but it didn't work for the whole trip!

[taper]

Rick I agree with Gerrit go with auto radio and a marine enclosure, most of the auto units are better quality than the marine units.Also if you can try to find a deck that has an auxillary input on the front panel, just in case you ever decide to add XM or Sirius radio it makes a really easy plug in that you can take in your house or car. I am installing 2-8 inch marine speakers 2-6 inch marine speakers and an AM/FM/CD player with front aux. input all Pioneer for about $650 this spring when the boat comes out of storage.

[Chris Cross]

I've installed lots of systems in boats.

The only way to go is a marine rated unit.

The elements will get to the system.

Car systems may sound better or cost less, but will not last!

Car systems won't take the pounding or the moisture.

I won't touch a car system repair in a boat.( the only repair there is replacement)

As for grounding electronics to boat....DON"T.

The stray current will excel the corrosion in the aluninum.(VERY BAD)

If you plan on keeping your boat for any time, do it right.

any questions, just PM me.

CX

[irishfield]

Rick..you say waterproof units are pretty costly. I just did a search on what is coming in my Lund as the Sony "upgrade" and much to my surprise the unit itself can be had for less than $150US from many online order houses.

 

Put Sony and CDXF50M in a web search and it will come up with lots of places to order from and reviews. 52W x 4 channels.

 

If you want the hand held remote for the thing it costs darn near as much as the unit .

[BryonG]

I decided along time ago not to put audio in the boat.I am surrounded by music most of of my waking hours( and love it ),but prefer the sound of nature and the conversation of my fishing partner when on the water.

[mrpike]

HELLO !

I also am in the market for a good radio . I have been looking for a long time and this is what I have come up with . I think I am going with a CLARION ( M455 ) MODEL ITs got a lot of what I am lookng for . POWER AM /FM CD and its is SATILITE READY a real must for me. I love my tunes . HERE is the there web site .

 

( http://www.clarion.com/ca/en/top.html ) HOPE you find what youare looking for.

 

MR. PIKE

[booda_11]

I added a radio to my boat of simular design. I cut the radio into the front of the rear seat as well as the speakers into the same area. I used a weather proof radio cover that I picked up from a local marine dealer. Wasn't to expensive. The only problem is the rear seat area was filled with foam. Had to be careful to cut out enought to allow for cooling as a lot of the new units do give off a bit of heat. The foam made a good enclosure for the speakers and it sounded good. If you go with a cd type there not made for the rough bouncing that the water will give it. The Card type is a good choice.

 

John