ch312

To those who're suggesting avoiding confrontation by moving to another area without saying something to these goons who crowd people, you're part of the problem as allowing this behavior to occur without saying anything gives these people the false impression this behavior is acceptable. I'm not suggesting damaging property or instigating an altercation, but a polite reminder of common courtesy usually works.

Heh...have you tried caulking/glazing off a swing stage or boom lift? Now THAT is what separates the hacks from the pro's who can tool a perfect, machine like bead. When I was doing high rise exterior finishing we would sometimes do jobs that required a whole skid of sausages for control joints, floor bands, balcony slabs, glazing, etc. I shake my head when I see the crap left by 99% of the "pro's", especially siding/window guys. Anyways, listen to aplumma and have the job done with copper. Less failures, no worries of rodents chewing, peace of mind. Just plumb it yourself the next time bad weather ruins your fishing weekend....

I was going by what acquaintances have told me and a quick Google search confirmed this, hence the tons of people with Optimax's having carbon issues along with plenty of how-to's for Optimax's. Don't let brand loyalty get in the way of fact. Regardless, the OP should be looking into this a bit more before dumping 5k on a new powerhead when it ay be a relatively cheap fix.

Call around to see how much it'll cost to be rebuilt as it could be something like a blown head gasket or stuck/bad rings in that cylinder. I believe these outboards are known for getting carbed up bad and you're suppose to run some sort of carbon cleaner every few tanks of gas to keep them cleaned out. Dig into it a bit, have the cylinders/pistons/rings inspected before dumping $5k+ on a new powerhead. It may just need new pistons, rings and the cylinders honed to remove scoring.

Some foundations with irregular shapes and changes in elevation can be complicated, but yours will be a simple rectangle with door cutouts. If you choose to do this on your own, most places that rent forms will give you a forming plan which shows exactly how to form the walls. Just give them the dimensions and they'll figure it out for you and send you everything you need. I doubt you need reinforced 10" walls with the highest elevation being only 2' above grade. Your local inspector will tell you exactly what you need as each site/project has specific requirements.

That's an easier/cheaper alternative for homeowners looking to do the work themselves. I believe code calls for the top course to be filled solid, but it's a good idea to fill all cores with core fill/grout or concrete. For someone with no masonry experience, it'll be much quicker to rent wall forms and pour the walls. I have even seen people use 5/8" plywood and 2x4's to build forms, spray with form oil/release to ensure plywood is not damaged while stripping forms, and use that same plywood and lumber for framing and sheeting their garage. Just be sure to use screws. Use the 2x6's from forming the footings during the framing process too.

A monolithic floating slab, which is often poured flat without curbing. Expect to pay considerably more for a floating slab with curbing due to the labor and time involved. The OP's structure requires footings and foundation due to it's size, which allows him to determine how high above grade the foundation or "curbing" will be.

The foundation will (should) be his "curbs" as the slab will be poured independently from the walls. Whoever does the work will simply take the existing grading into account along with what the home owner wants to determine what height the foundation needs to be. It's best to pour the walls so the highest surrounding soil grading is at least 12" below the top of the foundation, much like you typically see on houses where the foundation is 12-24" above grade. This protects your exterior cladding (siding, brick, board and batten, etc) from splashing rain, drifting/melting snow, etc and results in the slab (floor) being well below the top of the foundation. The taller foundation does cost more, but you'll also be using less lumber, insulation, drywall, exterior cladding, etc so it can actually be cheaper in the long run, along with being an overall better idea, to go with the taller foundation.

Exactly. Rent a rotary laser to prep and pour the footings then it's as simple as building a rectangle with the wall forms, bracing, adding a couple pieces of lumber for the door cutouts, floating it all level, and adding anchors. Forming the footings and walls is a one man job and pouring them is a two man (or husband and wife) job. Just leave the slab to the professionals.

If you're a carpenter you could easily handle pouring the footings and foundation (rent wall forms) to save a big chunk there. Pay someone to excavate, you form and pour the footings and walls, rent a skid steer and diesel plate tamper to back fill and prep base, pay someone to pour the slab. This is a very simple process and the majority of the cost is labor. Send me a PM if you want to attempt this and I can guide you step by step. Rough estimate for material: 5' x 8" wall = 11 m 20" x 6" footing = 3 m 34' x 24' 5" slab = 10 m or 11.5 m for 6" depth 24 m concrete x $180/m = $4300 Everyone pays a different price depending on who you are. Homeowners can pay up to $220/m while high volume contractors pay as little as $130/m. Gravel = $750-1500 with many factors coming into play Rebar/heavy gauge mesh = $5-600 Material cost really isn't what you're paying for and you can save thousands doing some of the work yourself. If I were to do this for myself or family I would only be looking at roughly $6k, including machine rental. There's a reason many contractors have nice trucks and equipment.

I'm in charge of prepping the base and placing/finishing concrete for jobs ranging from 4 to 6 digits in value and am still not fully understanding what you're describing. Did you want this: A) |___________| or ___________ | | As for spending money and doing it right, many problem areas can be remedied by installing weeping tile with multiple weepers to allow water to leech into the surrounding soil rather than sitting below the slab. If the ground is clay they should have excavated a minimum of 18", packed clay with a jumping jack, installed landscape fabric, 12" of B gravel, followed by A gravel to final grade being sure to add only as much material as their plate tamper could adequately pack per lift. A huge problem we often see is some people think tossing 12" of gravel in a hole and packing it with their little plate tamper is sufficient when in reality their tamper is only rated for 3-4" lifts. Some jobs require base preparation which greatly exceeds the cost of concrete and labor to place/finish it. You run into problems when neither the contractor or customer refuse to accept this.

Sorry, but you're incorrect in regards to guarantees. A properly prepared base along with proper drainage will result in a pad not heaving or settling for many years. Thing is, many "experts" are complete hacks and think their way is the right way or contractors who do know the proper way can't convince the customer to shell out extra money so they still do the job to get their money rather than walking away from the job so the concrete fails (cracks,settles, heaves, etc). As for straight sand, anyone who even suggests using such substrate as a base shouldn't be offering up any advice as it cannot achieve suitable compaction and is an extremely poor base. There's a reason nobody uses it. To the OP, I am not clearly understanding what you thought you were getting. Was this to be a monolithic floating slab on grade with the perimeter 10" deep or a slab on grade with a 4" elevated curb around the perimeter to keep water off the pad? It sounds like you wanted a flat pad with a 10" deep perimeter, which is typically done for sheds and garages to support the load, not for addressing water issues. Pouring concrete 4" deeper around the perimeter will do nothing to stop ground water from getting under the pad and/or prevent heaving, that's the purpose of a proper base and drainage. How deep did they excavate and what material did they use for a base? How was drainage addressed? Every situation can be remedied as long as you're willing to shell out the $$$.

Never works? Actually, it works quite well for valuable employees who're in high demand. Not so well for those who aren't as valuable as they think they are. It's a job, not your wife or family. Tell them how you feel and simply move on if you don't like their response/outcome. Far too many people go to work every day hating their jobs and it should never be that way.

Depending on the water body, that 9lb fish could be well past it's prime and could no longer be a good spawner and removing said fish could actually benefit the population. I mean no disrespect, but how can you criticize fisheries biologists if you cannot understand the difference between harvesting great lakes fish compared to fish from small inland lakes?

Keep the cat inside or on a leash where it cannot harm or kill native wildlife for entertainment?

I highly doubt you'll get $150-200 for that push mower, especially with a rivet repair job on an area that's stressed every time you push down on the handle to turn the mower. Maybe get half of your assessed value?

Boarding is defined as any time before the plane takes off which makes removing this guy 100% legal, as stated in the contract when passengers purchase their ticket. With almost 500,000 passengers being bumped last year in the US alone, I can't help but assume at least a couple thousand of those were bumped after physically stepping in the plane. This is just another case of a self entitled snob not reading the details when he purchased his ticket and agreed to United's contract/policy in the process.

The airline asked for volunteers to leave the plane, offering compensation up to $1000, and when nobody volunteered they chose random people. In United's contract, which passengers agree to when purchasing a ticket, it says they reserve the right to deny boarding for such reasons with boarding being defined as any time before the plane actually takes off. Zero sympathy from me and this idiot got what he deserved for acting like a child and resisting authorities. Three other passengers were also removed from the plane and this guy is the only one who caused a scene, which says a lot about the guy. Whether you're right or wrong, resisting authorities typically doesn't end well for those who choose to resist. Lastly, in 2016 nearly 500,000 people in the US were bumped from their flights due to overbooking. Almost half a million cases of people being bumped and this tool is the ONLY one to cause such a scene? I suppose he think's he's special.

Definitely a different movie, wasn't it? Good acting on the main guys part, but I found the "beast" to be a bit cheesy.

The hens diet has a huge impact on flavor while shell color has nothing to do with taste. But, the mental thing gets some people and they believe one color is better than another for whatever reason. Some won't eat brown or colored eggs because they're "gross", which is downright silly. Winter free range eggs do not taste as good or have a deep yellow yolk like eggs laid during the warmer months because the birds aren't eating all of the organics they find while scratching. I was selling ours for $4/dozen, until I realized I can get $10/dozen for the same eggs sold as hatching eggs. And no, there is zero difference when eating fertilized vs non fertilized eggs. Almost time for double yolkers again. Should start seeing them around August or September. As for gas prices, it really has me wanting to sell the 10 year old Ram with that thirsty Hemi. The bike really cuts down on gas costs (225 kms for $6-7 worth of gas), but the high prices make gassing up for fishing and hunting trips a bit more painful.

Almost forgot about the check valve. Make sure you have one installed and it's working properly as they prevent water in the line from falling back into the basin after the pump shuts off. A missing or malfunctioning check valve means the pump cycles more and reduces its life.

You should get a sump pump that resists clogs and can pass solids. I bought a Red Lion stainless and cast iron 1/2 hp to replace a pedestal pump and it's awesome. Super quiet, 5 year warranty, high flow, and unlike many pumps it's designed to pump solids up to 3/4" so it greatly reduces the risk of a clog, which would over heat and burn out your pump as the float will keep telling it to pump even though water is not being removed. They depend on water for cooling. Also, your pump should be on it's own breaker with a GFCI receptacle if it isn't already. As for battery backups, you can keep the battery charged and maintained using a battery tender or noco smart charger. The sky is the limit as to how many batteries you install and if your power goes out often it may be wise to buy 4 batteries and use a 4 bank smart charger to keep them charged and maintained. Two battery backups with two batteries each would be a good setup too with the floats set a different heights. Main pump fails, first battery powered unit kicks in, and if that dies or can't keep up the second battery powered unit will start pumping. Wallyboss is correct about the bucket and it will not cause any short cycling as it's nothing more than a barrier between the pump and solids entering the basin. The water will enter and be removed at the same rate as with a basin and no bucket. If you're on city water, a Sump Buddy uses the pressure from your water supply to create negative pressure which pumps the water from your basin. Sure, your water bill will reflect it's use, but they're great because they don't require electricity and work purely off city water supply.

I've ate it a few times (one time fried, in soup other 2 times) and it was great every time. That said, harvest methods and preparation make a huge difference with the final outcome of pretty much any animal we'd consider eating. Just look at how many people claim moose or deer is disgusting, when in fact it is delicious. How about fish that wasn't handled properly and tastes/smells fishy? You just ate some turtle that was prepared by someone who didn't have a clue what they were doing, that's all. Seems to me like their harvest has been stopped due to emotional reasons and people who don't have a clue, much like the spring bear hunt was. As for being endangered in Ontario, nope. https://www.ontario.ca/page/snapping-turtle Status Special Concern “Special Concern” means the species lives in the wild in Ontario, is not endangered or threatened, but may become threatened or endangered due to a combination of biological characteristics and identified threats.

For a cheaper alternative, consider something from Frogg Togg's. I purchased their Road Toad jacket and pants that are designed to fit over your clothing while riding a motorcycle and they've been great for the 3 years I have been using them, plus they still look new. They're 100% waterproof and breathable, even when ripping at 120 kph in the rain. I think it was $80 total for the jacket and pants. Super light, paper thin, and they pack down very small for storage.

The thing about having a great job is it really makes you wonder how some people can punish themselves daily by continuing to work in an environment they despise.