ch312

I wonder how many walleye it'll take before baitfish and perch populations begin to decline? With the insane number of fish out there this year I can't imagine it getting better. We had a couple trips where two of us limited out (6 fish each) with 20-24" fish in less than an hour and threw back smaller and bigger fish up to my season best 33" in the mix. I find the 20-24" are perfect eating size. Many times it was pointless even trying to set more than two lines.

A cull, which is what this is with a 50 bird limit, is the best option and most cost effective for reducing populations quickly. You guys should be thankful the government is actually considering saving money by allowing hunters to kill some cormorants instead of the usual business of the government hiring someone to do the job. I doubt anyone is going to be targeting them and this is simply a matter of letting waterfowlers shoot some cormorants if the opportunity presents itself while they're out for ducks and geese. Landowners won't need to shoot very many before the rest of the birds catch on and move away for good as birds learn quick after they've seen their buddies get shot.

Either a yearling buck with slow antler growth or a doe with spikes. Both are possible, you should have checked between it's legs ?

Don't forget to buy those OFSC trail permits before the price goes up again in a couple weeks.... Fisherman, what's wrong with a blade on an ATV? The worst thing about them is your neighbors will start expecting you to do theirs too...

I was reading the results of a study done in then 90's which showed cormorants were only eating about 0.5% of the batifish annually in lake O compared to 15% that sportfish ate. Even if you multiply cormorant population by 10x (updated population numbers aren't available), that's still only 5% of the baitfish biomass meaning cormorants are basically irrelevant. I believe alewife were around 30% of the cormorants diet. They aren't as bad as some people will have you believe, but it's easy to place the blame on the birds.

Smoked fish or meat needs drying time in order to form a proper pellicle which lets the smoke stick to the meat better and results in a much more appealing product. Brined fish/meat should be rinsed with clean water and patted dry before the pellicle stage Smoke should always be that thin blue smoke and the smoker needs to be properly vented to let that smoke escape ASAP. You alter the flavor by using different kinds of wood and amount of time the smoker is producing smoke, not by creating more or less smoke. The amount of smoke coming from the smoker should be the same regardless of what you're smoking. DanD, you're mistaken about creosote being formed if you add more chips. Creosote is formed when the smoker isn't vented properly and the smoke is allowed to linger inside the smoker and/or you're past the "thin blue smoke" stage and you're creating white/gray smoke. Many newbs think more smoke is better or it's better to hold the smoke inside the smoker when both are actually very bad ideas. Misfish, the reason your two batches of fish look so different is the dry rubbed fish dried quicker and formed a good pellicle before going in the smoker where as the brined fish contained much more moisture and 30 minutes was nowhere near enough time to form a pellicle. Good pellicle results in that lovely smoker fish color where as your first batch is the result of no pellicle. My first couple batches of smoked fish wasn't even edible. It's definitely a learning curve.

Seeing as property owners would never accept the idea of their property taxes being increased in order to pay for the maintenance and lawsuits on said piers, I suppose the only options are finding a private contractor who's willing to accept all liability and maintain the pier for free or charge admission fees to recover the associated costs. I doubt either will happen. Correct, you'd be unsuccessful in filing a lawsuit against the county for failure to maintain said road if there is in injury. We have those signs around here too on the small single lane gravel roads that I believe are fire access roads. Another example of a municipality posting signage at a location that is not practical or cost effective to maintain. I imagine you and your neighbors property taxes would increase substantially if the township was required to maintain the road and provide snow clearing/salting.

This is why discussions about finances and credit are usually so interesting. You have the people who've been making good money all their lives, but they're not capable of managing money or have horrible credit so they cannot fathom a financially responsible individual financing something. Then you have the folks who make little money and have maxed out their credit at high rates and cannot escape the predicament they've put themselves in so they tell others to never use credit. Then you have those who're financially responsible with great credit that do what they want because financing is so cheap and a few extra dollars per month is a non issue. This thread has inspired me to go shopping for a new ATV that I plan on financing instead of using cash. The cost to finance? Less than $275 over two years. If they deny my financing I'll use the HELOC and it'll cost $580 in interest. $11.45 ($0.38/day) vs $24 ($0.80/day) per month in interest fees. Pennies and meaningless either way. I'm almost tempted to finance the OP's boat and charge him a few points just to make sure he buys it! Has anyone been part of private lending? I've been considering it for a while now, just not sure where to start.

Municipal property is to be maintained by the municipality OR homeowners who're required to maintain municipal property in front of their homes (sidewalk). If the pier is left open, the municipality is legally required to maintain the pier all winter. Close it off with proper signage and they're no longer on the hook. This is why you see so many public areas closed off during the winter. Trails, stairs or sidewalks connecting two walkways and piers are common examples of areas that are closed off during winter months because winter maintenance is not practical or is too expensive.

You can use that HELOC "cash" to buy a cottage or for a down payment on another property too. A HELOC makes it possible for people to buy an investment property as these require 25% down and most people do not have that cash. Taking this route, you can sit back and let tenants pay off your debt for you. Or, setup a HELOC on the rental so the tenants are paying the mortgage on your rental AND paying for your toys. Using equity can open up a whole new world of awesome. If you're financially responsible, at least consider some of the options available out there that can make your life way more fun and provide financial freedom while using none of your own money. Life is short, might as well enjoy it by using someone else's money to fund your happiness....

They knew the pier is closed and they chose to ignore the signs. You can't whine about receiving tickets when you choose to believe you're above the law. Walker and Whiffen were also ticketed the same day. Both say they regularly fish off the pier in the winter months and are aware it’s posted as closed. “We’ve literally been fishing on this pier for decades and nothing’s ever been said to us before about us being there,” said Walker. Many cities close off certain areas during the winter as it's not practical or cost effective to conduct winter maintenance in areas that receive little to no use during winter months. With something like a pier, the city would have to send crews nearly every day during the winter to spread salt. We cannot expect a city to spend thousands every winter to keep a couple fishermen happy.

There's a difference between financially responsible people and those who're absolutely clueless when it comes to managing money and credit. The former typically have this attitude because they're so good with money that financing a significant purchase is a non issue while the latter will max out their credit, stay in debt, and have no clue what they're doing. The OP is clearly in the first group as his latest post suggests he is doing well for someone his age and is more than capable of managing funds. AKRISONER, I don't think you're giving yourself as much credit as you deserve for being financially responsible. It's obvious you're on the right path and I don't think you realize how little of an impact financing $15k will have on your day to day life. Reward yourself for your hard work and enjoy life. $15k + $1.5k interest over say 3 years = $16.5k/1095 days is a whopping $15/day you need to scrounge up to afford this boat. Judging by the little information you've posted, you could easily afford this.

Attitude like mine? Heh...if you only knew who you were talking too.... You guys are talking like the OP is putting his life on the line to buy a million dollar boat that he can never sell if times are tough and it's absolutely ridiculous. If times are tough he has the option of making interest payments only or selling the boat. *DING*DING*DING* We have a winner!

Times have changed. If everyone waited until they had enough cash saved up to buy toys, not many people would have toys as living has become so expensive. In the OP's case, $15k at 4% over 4 years = $340/month with $1250 in interest over those 4 years. That's only $300 and change extra per year to have a boat now instead of 4 years down the road. The OP's only choice is to use credit and the HELOC is likely his best option. It's silly to miss out on the amount of fun a boat provides and limit yourself to shore or friends boats just to save a few peanuts.

You own a house, put that equity to work for you. You can get a HELOC up to 80% of your homes current value at low rates. It basically turns your house into a big fat credit card and you only need to pay the interest each month. For a $20,000 boat you'd likely be looking at minimum payments of $50-60 a month. Doing it this way you have the flexibility of paying whatever you want per month as long as it's above the minimum. As you pay down the debt your available credit goes back up like a credit card. Lose your job? Oh well, just make the minimum payments for a couple months til you're back on your feet. Extra cash? Pay off the HELOC with no penalty. It's a no stress, low interest loan that's great for people who can manage money. If you have a very good credit score be sure to haggle and grind the bank until you get what you want.

There's the Snow Dog which can pull over 1000 lbs and costs around $3k US that you could likely copy and build for $1000 or so. A used snowmobile for $1000-1500 is likely the easiest and cheapest option. Might even find an old sled for a couple hundred bucks that you could restore for a few bucks or use it's parts to make something like the Snow Dog. If you're going to try and build something that will only work on ice with little to no snow cover you might as well just use a Smitty sled.

I can't wrap my head around the idea of so many people wasting so much time and money trying to find the best drill for ice fishing. Just go buy a cheap Ridgid hammer drill for $200 with a lifetime warranty for when, not if, you burn out the drill. You might even be able to get a two drill combo for around the same price. Save the good drills for renovations or work where it's not being over worked and/or soaked with water and snow. My drill is about 3 years old and I don't even use the second battery most days.

The two up law is basically the same as driving over the speed limit in your car. Nobody really cares as long as you're not being stupid and drawing attention to yourself. I'm not saying it's okay to disregard the law, but an ATV being two up would likely be one of the last thing's I would be looking at when buying an ATV. I'm currently shopping to replace my 07 Grizzly 700 and was all gung-ho about buying a new Grizz and have took a couple for a rip, but I am seeing too many reports of the 2016's and newer being lower quality and nowhere near as reliable as the older machines. Now I am torn between keeping my machine and putting a couple grand into it to make it like new or do I sell it to buy new and hope for the best. Anyone here an ATV mechanic or know of one in SW Ontario that'll rebuild the engine? I've heard too many bad thing's about local shops.

I hadn't considered more than one fireplace being in the house. Is that 5700 sq ft the footprint of your house or total living space with all floors combined? Between cutting, splitting, stacking and moving the firewood indoors combined with maintaining said fireplaces, you're likely nearing full time weekly hours to heat the house. A lot of work, but I would hate to see the propane or oil bill if you heated that way. Have you used propane or oil to heat the house? Just curious what that amount of wood translates into one of the other heating fuels to heat for the winter to compare costs.

Oh c'mon man, no need for that. Need an internet hug? Fact, never inflate higher than the maximum rating on the tire sidewall for normal operation. Fact, Goodyear suggests running 10 PSI higher than what's stated on the trailer placard if running higher speeds as long as it does not exceed what's on the tire sidewall. What's interesting is if your trailer calls for say 40 PSI you can bump the PSI on those Goodyears to 50 PSI and run up to 75 mph. However, if you're mounting these tires on a trailer that calls for 50 PSI on the placard, which is the tires maximum rated PSI, you need to keep that pressure and run no faster than 65 mph. Like I said, the maximum PSI tire rating and trailer recommended PSI are two different things that must not be confused.

True, I wasn't looking at it from that angle and it's honest to inform the customer up front. How often do you see this Slime or other sealants in street vehicle tires? Have you any experience with TireJect, which is a whitish color and more fluid than Slime? I've played with both a few times and Slime will/should be obsolete when TireJect starts gaining ground and taking market share. Slime and other similar products have made many people strongly dislike these sealants which makes it harder for a better product to gain ground as the stigma of tire sealants being a huge PITA is already there. I threw a brand new bottle of Slime in the garbage after trying Tireject. I couldn't bring myself to give that crap away....

The one in the link @ Sail is the same color as the Fin Bore Micro, which I thought they discontinued a few years back. I have the Micro and don't recall it having the reinforcing rods at the blade end, but the rest looks the same. The price looks to be about what I paid for mine though.

To make your blades last much longer just hit each blade with one or two strokes with a sharpener/stone (I use a Speedy Sharp) after every outing to keep a nice edge. Hundreds of holes later and my Fin Bore 3 cuts as new. You often hear of people ruining auger blades by trying to sharpen them and that's because most people wait until their auger is dull before trying to sharpen. If you let it get dull enough to notice a difference in cutting, you'll have to try and remove too much material at once to get the edge back which greatly increases the odds of screwing up the angle on the cutting edge. This is why most auger sharpening fails. One or two strokes is not enough to change anything, but it's enough to keep a sharp edge. I haven't compared old vs new Clam plates. Are the newer ones improved enough to justify selling old to buy new?

We're looking at two different thing's here. What you have posted states "10 PSI above what is on the trailers placard" which is the suggested rating by the trailer manufacturer, not the maximum rating on the tire sidewall. The comment I quoted was referring to the "max rating", which is what's on the tire sidewall. I suppose Krattor could have meant to run 10 PSI higher than what's on the placard, but I have only ever heard of people refer to the sidewall as the "max rating". Marathon tire maximum PSI for most sizes looks to be 50 PSI. My trailer calls for 50 PSI. How might I run 60 PSI when the sidewall says maximum is 50PSI and the bulletin says not to exceed this maximum? Anyways, like I said, don't run 10 PSI over the tires maximum rating. Possibly 10 PSI over the trailer placard in some cases, but never over the tires maximum. Trailer placard = recommended, room up and down for adjustment Tire sidewall = maximum, do not exceed

Slime = hard to clean Tire Ject = super easy Guys I know run the stuff in off roading truck tires and ATV's, not road vehicles. It's pointless running in road tires as the odds of a puncture are so low and adding some sealant and air on the side of the road is usually a non issue. Out of curiosity, why is it necessary to charge 3x the price? I have patched two slimed tires from the inside and just cleaned the slime from about 1/4 worth of the tire and the patches didn't leak for a few years before the truck was sold. Added about 5 minutes to the process.