Fisherman

Is the trailer registered? If it is, then no, don't include the trailer, that tax was already paid when you plated it (although there are a lot of people that just shuffle the same plate from trailer to trailer without the paperwork). You get caught, it's your explanation to the fuzz. Ah shinola, Jer beat me to it.

No, your bill of sale is the ownership, keep a copy of it on board and don't ever lose the original. Check at Transport Canada/Marine and do a bunch of reading, it's good for the mind and then you can't say "someone told me".

It's not the voltage per se that counts, it's the current draw. You'll be running 3 x 12 in series, the voltage will increase, however the current won't go up much, if you're worried, go to Princess Auto and peel off a couple yards of #4 welding cable, very flexible and rubber covered.

A lot of little dinks, maybe not warm enough yet. I did all the way out to about 25 feet, absolutely nothing, caught a few keepers in tthe marina.

One added point, when you buy, check the battery manufacture date, there will either be a tag or date stamp in the plastic case. It will be as follows: a letter with a number, ie, D-08 or D-8, letter is the month A-Jan, B-Feb, C-Mar, etc, number is the year, 08 or 8 is 2008, 09 or 9 is 2009. Get the most up to date, look for the dusty top.

Two batteries toast? My first question is, how old are they, and did you treat them right or just put them away "dirty and wet" like an old rag? Answer please:_________ With a 55# motor I would go with 2, they take a fair bit of power to make that kind of push. The reason, any type of battery(deep cycle) in this case should never be run down more than 50% of its capacity before a full recharge. The further you discharge, the harder it becomes on the battery(s) internal workings. I would go with either group 27 or 31. Brands, if take care of your stuff and can afford it, then spend some dollars and get either Trojan, Deka, Odyssey, top of the line batteries. If you're a working stiff like most of us, Interstate, WallyMart Batteries do just fine. My boat battery is 8 years old, runs everything. My last RV trailer battery was 11 before it died. As for Optima, over priced for the amount of usable power(capacity) compared to regular lead acid batteries. It's your schekel

Part of the issue that a lot don't understand is as follows: Registering a trailer with a boat and motor on it are different departments. MTO(transport) is only interested in receiving the taxes due for the trailer, not boat/motor. They may forward the info(boat/motor) to revenue Ontario but that's about it. Down the road,(many years sometimes) revenue Ontario with its molasses slow system gets to the bottom of the paper pile and sees taxes due on a used boat/motor(not yet paid). Again, Transport Canada, the entity that gives you the vessel licence or registration as may be doesn't care either, they're not there to collect taxes. Therefore, best scenario, when you buy, barter, trade, are given a used boat/motor, get a receipt from the previous owner, separate from the trailer, go to the effort and get it paid up front. That way there are no ghosts in the closet to haunt you.

Maybe just an illusion looking at the dimension of the large transom cut out, I would be betting that's half the problem. If a new boat is rated for the weight of the motor, seems a little fishy, maybe they are lacking in transom strength and have found this out through other complaints. Just a thought.

I'm just taking a guess at this but, the burner on a water heater puts out one heck of a pile of heat, I had one given to me, built a rack around it and use it for the big cast iron french fry pot. Even on low it takes no effort to heat in winter. I think part of the temp regulation problem is that the temperature sensor sits in the water as its heated, not in the surrounding air to turn the burner on and off. I just looked at our 40G present water heater, that's a 47,000 btu burner. I'd be leaning more on the 1000-1500 watt electric heater if your box would be the size of a 4 drawer filing cabinet. If you went propane, maybe a small single burner portable coleman camping stove. Anyway, good luck.

Most pumps have a priming plug on the top of the impeller houseing, usually a square plug, unscrew that and pour the water in there.

Ya, next year, can't get the regs and a calender on the same page

A healthy dose of SEAFOAM in the gas tank, not through the carb intake, it will slowly clean out all the tiny passages and jets in the carb. That's why I drain my carbs on summer equipment to store over the winter, no funky gas to dry and gum things up. If it's that bad you may have to take the carb apart and clean it with a product like Revive, should be able to get it at Car Quest/NAPA. I did an old 4 stroke carb with it and the gum deposits washed out after 20 minutes, ran like new after that.

something for someone else to research, I was of the understanding that if the Mfgr requires you to use their product to honour warranty, then they have to provide it at no cost. That's why they can't force the issue.

Well it works, however, I think I need some trifocals and a serious case of hand warming to make that one in cold weather. I'll stick to the palomar.

This is what I would use: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/hpi.aspx

The last thing you want to do is burn it, the oil becomes airborne and can cause severe respiratory problems to anyone breathing it in, even from a distance. Round-up herbicide s one of the best. It may take several treatments, but it works.

Thanks, that's one of the best videos I've seen in a long time. There's not too many that could accomplish just building his cabin, let alone living in nature. Just shows what man is capable of.

I think one of the biggest problems is that a lot of anglers fail to read all of the applicable finer points of what is prohibited. A simple step to get to those points can be accomplished by going to the MNR website(Fishing) and typing short question into the search feature at the top, i.e, "Party Fishing" and it will give a number of responses such as follows: Possessing more fish than permitted by your fishing licence or the fishing quota. Catch and retain and possession limits may vary by region, fisheries division, individual body of water, or even parts of a body of water. You must determine your “daily” fishing limit for the waters you intend to fish and follow these limits. Remember you may only catch your own limit – there are no provisions for “party” fishing or for excluding fish that you may have consumed or plan to consume that day. Part of that quote is also listed at the bottom of page 36 of the regs.

Happy BDay Brian and many more healthy ones to come. I want you to be healthy and work and pay lots of taxes so I can collect my pension.

Filling the hub is one of last things I would do, you see the bearings warm up a little while rolling and it allows the grease to warm and flow in there. You fill the hub, the grease doesn't get warmed up, and although your hub may e full, you're starving the bearings of lubrication. That's why I got rid of my BB's.

That is a keeper video, probably works well for any wild fowl too.

Look at the working area, might as well do it in a sand dune, hands are nice and clean too eh? I wouldn't let him do bearings on my neighbours lawnmower muffler.

#1, wear a pair of latex or similar gloves, hand sweat contains salt and that's real good for bearings right from the get go. #2, use the right kind of grease, I use the Amsoil brand of low wash out grease, similar what's used on snowmobile bearings. #3, make sure your work surface is clean, eatable clean, no point is setting new clean bearings on a dirty gritty surface. #4, with a plop of grease in the palm of one hand introduce grease into the inner and outer halves of the bearing by sort of sweeping the bearing into the palm full of grease. #5, place the rear bearing into the race and add the rear seal. Then do the front bearing, place the hub on the axle and add the bearing, (thrust washer if needed) castle nut and proceed to tighten the nut to mfgrs specs. Insert a new proper sized cotter pin and secure. Add a wee bit of grease around the dust cap and replace it squarely. Done.

Home Hardware stainless eh? Take a small magnet with you, if it holds the magnet, it cheap chinese low grade stainless that rusts after a couple years. Or just look on the package where it's made. As for the wood, I would only give it a couple of coats of a good quality sealer/antimold like Thompsons. Otherwise if it's not sealed 100%, it will rot from the inside out. It needs to breath.

If they had been really smart they would have married Cummins and then wouldn't have had to pay out the extra for Isuzu, but noooo, they had to be stoopid and after that last fiasco I had, I'd rent a non GM taxi with a hitch to pull my boat before I bought another(any) GM product.