G.mech

The all weather tires do have the 'snowflake' meaning they are an approved winter tire and you can still get your insurance discount.

There are lots of tests and reports on these tires and most are pretty positive, google them if you want. They've been around for a few years now but are just becoming more popular in North America. Obviously they're not quite as good as purpose built snow tire in winter or an all season in summer but they are a very good compromise for those who don't travel a lot of miles in extreme conditions.

Yup, that's the ones I put on too.

x2. Put them on my wife's CRV and my daughters Cruze and am pretty surprised how good they work. Both are low mileage vehicles so wear is not really that big a concern. Two less sets for me to store and change every year, I win!

Maybe I'm missing something but the internet price was higher than CTC's tag wasn't it?? Edit, oh never mind.....The bib was 299 and so was the jacket but you got the whole suit for 319. Man I am thick sometimes.

Over the years I have had 'Astrostart' units put in three vehicles for my wife at the car audio place and had zero issues them; they were expensive but they worked flawlessly. The next vehicle I cheaped out and got a Viper installed at Future Shop (now Bestbuy) and had nothing but problems for the next 5 years. My wife wouldn't even use it because you had to use both the factory and Viper remotes in the right sequence or the panic alarm would start and be next to impossible to shut off. The door locking was also very unreliable and you were never sure if the doors had locked or not. Despite numerous visits back to Future Shop, it never ever worked properly and we finally just gave up on it. I just got the latest Astrostart put on her new vehicle last month at Audio Ave in Simcoe and it works perfectly. You're looking at 500-600 bucks all in but I truly believe that you get what you pay for in this market. The best answer is the factory ones but if they don't come with it I'd be looking at the higher end aftermarket ones.

That's not the way my stuff works. The waypoint data is recorded at whichever unit you mark it with and the data shared to the other...no difference which one is turned on first as far as I know. I have never seen any difference returning to a waypoint, the data is exactly the same in both.

This is really a very sad and messy story: http://www.brantfordexpositor.ca/2016/12/07/mom-on-the-run

You don't have to unplug anything. You can select the source sensor for each unit in the Sonar menu. You can actually look at the HDS 5 transducer on the 9 and the 9's on the 5 if you want simply by selecting each other's transducers. Your map chips & waypoints will all be shared automatically too but your trails will remain distinct to each unit.

The transducers do degrade over time especially on the higher power HDS units but I'm not sure it's due to road damage though. I think leaving them running out of the water is not good for them but again, how can you be sure? I do know that I change mine every 2-3 years and the new ones are noticeably clearer. You can buy a high end Airmar transducer or something similar but they aren't the 83/200kHz ones and cost the price of 3 or 4 Lowrance ones so I just stick with dual freq Lowrance.

She is a PhD who has been teaching at a University in Egypt for the last few years....weird deal. Hard to say where they may have gone or who's up to what.

He was trolling on it when he got the burbot.....it's kind of like the photo beside the boat at the ramp that we do only NWT style.

Here is a link to a tire size comparison calculator. They recommend staying withing 3% of the original tires size but I know lots of people who have run up to 5% without issues (lots of tire experts say 5% is the limit). Your tires would be 4.76% different. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator

Your #8 wire will be fine for your 80lb 24V motor unless it's crazy long. If anything, your 55lb motor will draw more current at 12V than the 80 will at 24V. They recommend a 60A breaker for both as well: http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Support/Battery-Selection---Rigging/

Why not just wire your 2 batteries in parallel instead of in series and run it at 12V? I did that for years with my Terrova 55 and then when I upgraded to the 80 just re-wired them to series for 24V....

I have 3 brand new ones in the cupboard and I think 2 more at my buddy's place. They still have the wrappers on the handles. PM me if you want them and we can work something out with a trade on your convectors.

Here's another take on the story: http://thebreakthrough.org/index.php/programs/energy-and-climate/animal-planets-bogus-account-of-chernobyl-wildlife It seems you can't believe anything any more....

If it's a gas furnace, check an make sure the vent pipe is clear. The burner won't fire if there is inadequate air flow when it's purging on startup. Usually that result in a 'lock-out' condition after a few tries but I'm not sure about the Rheem. Sometimes a wasp nest or spider webs in the end of the pipe are enough to restrict the exhaust air flow. You could even try hooking you shop vac to the outlet and see if you get any junk out.

I did a report on engine dynos in college way back when and as I recall outboard horsepower has been measured at the prop shaft instead of the flywheel since the early 80's or so. The only real difference is where the dyno is connected. The prop shaft horsepower will be a little less than than the flywheel horsepower but only by about 10% or so. It's the same idea as and engine dyno vs a chassis dyno for you car; one measures the HP at the flywheel, the other at the wheels. Your nameplate now refers to prop shaft horsepower.

The table at the bottom seems pretty clear, not sure how you could possibly draw this conclusion. Anyway, like the others, I only put Opti oil in mine whether it's really necessary or not.

https://www.quicksilver-products.com/en/products/marine/outboard/lubricant/two-stroke-outboard-oil/ According to this link, Premium Plus is okay for the Opti...

If it has TCW-3 certification on the label it is okay for the Opti. It think the only oils Merc sells with that rating are the Optimax oil and Premium Plus which are both synthetic blends. I wouldn't use regular 2 stroke oil in the opti.

The two Nestle Waters plants in Canada are owned by Nestle Waters North America (a US corporation). NWNA is owned by Nestle Waters who in turn is owned by Nestle Inc (a Swiss Corporation). Not too confusing.......

I'm not sure where your quoted facts come from but Nestle Waters cannot even bottle 20 million LPD in Canada and hold only 3 permits under "Nestle Canada Inc". The other permits you described do not show up on the Ontario list anywhere that I can find. They have 2 plants in Canada, the Aberfoyle plant and one in Hope BC. The Aberfoyle plant bottles most of it's water from it's source well at the plant and also draws about 25% (or less) from it's well in Erin township, no other source wells are presently used. The actual bottling capacity of the Aberfoyle plant is under 4 million LPD flat out at 100% efficiency (4 high speed lines that run 1200 1/2 liter bottles per minute, and one slower line that does around 800 or so) . The Hope BC plant is about 1/3 of that capacity. The plants do not run at full capacity for other then a couple of months in the Spring, the rest of the year they idle some of their bottling lines as sales are much higher in the summer months. Also, the water from Aberfoyle is bottled for the Canadian market and is not normally shipped to the US but there are some rare instances where it is including that flavoured 'Splash' garbage they bottle. The Hope BC plant does routinely ship to the US however. As you suggest, they do use a ton of electricity and plastic in bottle making which itself is an environmental concern far greater than the water as far as I'm concerned. Anyway, it's kind of a moot point but there sure is a lot of misinformation floating around in the media these days and much of it seems to spring forth from the WWW (pardon the pun ). It's groups like this with their half baked hype who were responsible for the all the witch burnings back in the middle ages. I would just like to reiterate that I am not a supporter of Nestle or their water business and have no skin in the game I just don't like some of the tactics these special interest groups use and wanted to try and keep the facts as straight as possible (I do have some inside knowledge of the plants in question). If it wasn't for the 300 jobs and all the spinoffs in trucking, construction, etc from the plant I'd be leading the parade to have them shut down. The industry is waste but if people keep buying bottles, somebody is going to fill them,