What oil for 25 hp yamaha 2 stroke

[ecmilley]

I don't like  playing with mix to much. People.like adding oil to make it rich but actually. . are. Making it fuel lean seen lots engines go south doing that. 

[AKRISONER]

11 hours ago, ecmilley said:

Was in boat land last week and the 89.95 price was the in store special the 99 was show special I have a 10l jug. Now

ill make a stop through then next Friday for sure. thanks for the heads up.

[jimmer]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I guess I just don't like change and was hoping there was another oil out there that I didn't know about that was specific for 100:1 mixtures in the marine world.

[Lape0019]

Check out Domo-online.com I have never used this but the guys on a few other boards swear by them. The se3ll the yamalube and if you are close to a border, you may be able to have it shipped to a freight forwarder and go pick it.

 

I considered doing this for the XD100 but seeing as I should only need a few jugs a season, I figured I would just pick it up when and as needed here for now until I get the rundown of exactly how much I will need.

[Fisherman]

1 hour ago, jimmer said:

Thanks for all the tips guys. I guess I just don't like change and was hoping there was another oil out there that I didn't know about that was specific for 100:1 mixtures in the marine world.

i sent you a PM with details.

[AKRISONER]

jesus i should make a business smuggling this stuff over the border. Its one thing to pay double the price in canada, its another to just simply not be able to get anything.

[misfish]

When Shell brought out Nautilus pre mix oil, it,s what I went with. Even used the bottom end lube on all my out boards. Started using it with a 20 merc and johnson. Used it for my oil injected 115 mariner on the bass boat. Never an issue with it and it,s covered by all warranties . 

 

I really dont get, USE OUR PRODUCT.

Edited June 7, 2018 by misfish

[AKRISONER]

12 hours ago, misfish said:

When Shell brought out Nautilus pre mix oil, it,s what I went with. Even used the bottom end lube on all my out boards. Started using it with a 20 merc and johnson. Used it for my oil injected 115 mariner on the bass boat. Never an issue with it and it,s covered by all warranties . 

 

I really dont get, USE OUR PRODUCT.

ive used nautilus all my life too because it was just what my dad bought for the boats...i didnt know a thing about oil. I always knew that my two strokes smoked like a chimney and my prop would always be pretty sooted up, but i figured it was just the way a carburated two stroke ran...

Then I got my own boat and my mom even made a comment, jesus your boat doesnt stink or put out plumes of smoke...and its a carburated two stroke as well...then it dawned on me, this boat has always used semi syn TCW-3 Pennzoil Premium Plus...The oil really makes all of the difference.

 

[jimmer]

On ‎07‎/‎06‎/‎2018 at 9:43 AM, Lape0019 said:

Check out Domo-online.com I have never used this but the guys on a few other boards swear by them. The se3ll the yamalube and if you are close to a border, you may be able to have it shipped to a freight forwarder and go pick it.

 

I considered doing this for the XD100 but seeing as I should only need a few jugs a season, I figured I would just pick it up when and as needed here for now until I get the rundown of exactly how much I will need.

I don't really like the yamalube, smokes like a bugger when I use it.

[aplumma]

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/2-stroke/outboard-100-1-pre-mix-synthetic-2-stroke-oil/

 

I am not sure why your distributor can't get this product. It is still made and distributed by amsoil in the US. 

 

Art

[misfish]

10 hours ago, AKRISONER said:

ive used nautilus all my life too because it was just what my dad bought for the boats...i didnt know a thing about oil. I always knew that my two strokes smoked like a chimney and my prop would always be pretty sooted up, but i figured it was just the way a carburated two stroke ran...

Then I got my own boat and my mom even made a comment, jesus your boat doesnt stink or put out plumes of smoke...and its a carburated two stroke as well...then it dawned on me, this boat has always used semi syn TCW-3 Pennzoil Premium Plus...The oil really makes all of the difference.

 

Never had a smoke issue. hmmmmm

 

As for syn products, never been a fan. Is it still true once you go syn, you can not put reg oil in? Even if you flush the engine? Also told ( hear say ) that dyn will eventually dry out rings and they will crack. HEAR SAY.

Edited June 8, 2018 by misfish

[aplumma]

On 6/6/2018 at 9:43 PM, ecmilley said:

I don't like  playing with mix to much. People.like adding oil to make it rich but actually. . are. Making it fuel lean seen lots engines go south doing that. 

Ding Ding Ding we have a winner. It is a really hard concept to explain to people that the higher the oil content the leaner the engine runs and the hotter the pistons will get. Part of the cooling process is the atomization of the fuel. Most people think it is the friction that generates the heat that causes the oil to coke and stick a ring. The cheaper the oil is the easier it is to coke. This is not as critical on machines that run in a narrow powerband such as weed eaters and chainsaws so running 100:1 oil that is designed to be run 100:1 does not stick the rings even though it is leaner than designed. After heavily modifying jetskies for racing and a few Yamaha 2 stroke motorcycles RD350 RZ350 amsoil has been used with no oil related failures, cheap oil will kill an engine in my observations. 

 

Art

[aplumma]

2 minutes ago, misfish said:

Never had a smoke issue. hmmmmm

 

As for syn products, never been a fan. Is it still true once you go syn, you can not put reg oil in? Even if you flush the engine?

Brian you can mix the oils without an issue. The difference is the synthetics have a better  or cleaner burn than the non synthetic so the wear factor is less. The non synthetic oils burn less clean but they coat the lower end of the motor crankshaft, rods, piston, bearings etc. This means when you store the engine between uses you have less chance of rusting on the parts. Remembering that the first and majority of the work that the oil does is lubricate the top end of the engine it is why I use a synthetic over dino oil. The answer for me is to run the synthetics and use fogging oil between 2 weeks or longer of non use. Most people would find that this is to much of a pain but some of the motors that I am protecting were expensive to build and are worth the few minutes to keep them healthy. 

Art

[chris.brock]

Sounds like you know your 2 strokes Art.

What's your opinion on the 100:1 oil versus a good quality oil (Amsoil synthetic for eg) at the manufacturers recommended ratio?

Edited June 9, 2018 by chris.brock

[aplumma]

Chris you can mix 100:1 down to what your equipment advises with no ill effects. They are achieving the 100:1 ratio by additives and blending which are more expensive than dino oil. Dino oil is good enough for most applications and Pennsoil has a big following for a good reason. Personally I use the best products I can find and pay the price simply because maintenance is always cheaper than repairs. I was taught by my engine guru he would always say "that grease is cheaper than metal."  Right now I am using 80:1 on all of my motors and on disassemble they look great. The big difference between two stroke and two stroke marine is it's additives that coat the bottom end of the motors to prevent rust. I strictly use the marine version as well as a product called sta bil 360 which is for the ethanol in fuel. The secret of the 360 is it creates a barrier between the air and the gas to lessen it absorption and also it encapsulates the water to allow it to go thru the combustion process without harm. With the use of these additives the engine will run better and longer between services. I get a lot of carburetors brought to me that have nothing more than scum and varnish that have built up in the passages due to sitting and poor fuel management. The engines that I get that fail due to oil related  issues are almost always from coking which builds up and does not allow the blow by needed to lubricate the bottom end bearings. (coking and carbon build up are the same thing) Once the ring stops floating in the grooves  they will be referred to as (stuck) and they will start to scar the cylinders and this creates heat and expansion. Eventually the compression between the cylinders will create an unbalanced up and down force and destroys the bearings supporting the crank. Finally with all of this unbalanced forces it will break the piston wrist pin and send the crank thru the casings. Depending on the amount of forces at work this can sometimes give you enough warning before it destroys itself or it can be within minutes. 

Art

[AKRISONER]

On 6/9/2018 at 8:57 AM, aplumma said:

 I strictly use the marine version as well as a product called sta bil 360 which is for the ethanol in fuel. The secret of the 360 is it creates a barrier between the air and the gas to lessen it absorption and also it encapsulates the water to allow it to go thru the combustion process without harm. With the use of these additives the engine will run better and longer between services.

Art,

Ive made it a deal that rather then deal with fuel additives ive started to only purchase ethanol free premium gas for the boat. Do you think this is good enough for the outboard vs using a product like "ring free"

Edited June 11, 2018 by AKRISONER

[Fisherman]

On 6/8/2018 at 4:33 PM, aplumma said:

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/2-stroke/outboard-100-1-pre-mix-synthetic-2-stroke-oil/

 

I am not sure why your distributor can't get this product. It is still made and distributed by amsoil in the US. 

 

Art

I called the main distribution center here in Mississauga,  Amsoil won't ship that particular product here anymore, unfortunate.

[DRIFTER_016]

On 6/9/2018 at 6:57 AM, aplumma said:

Chris you can mix 100:1 down to what your equipment advises with no ill effects. They are achieving the 100:1 ratio by additives and blending which are more expensive than dino oil. Dino oil is good enough for most applications and Pennsoil has a big following for a good reason. Personally I use the best products I can find and pay the price simply because maintenance is always cheaper than repairs. I was taught by my engine guru he would always say "that grease is cheaper than metal."  Right now I am using 80:1 on all of my motors and on disassemble they look great. The big difference between two stroke and two stroke marine is it's additives that coat the bottom end of the motors to prevent rust. I strictly use the marine version as well as a product called sta bil 360 which is for the ethanol in fuel. The secret of the 360 is it creates a barrier between the air and the gas to lessen it absorption and also it encapsulates the water to allow it to go thru the combustion process without harm. With the use of these additives the engine will run better and longer between services. I get a lot of carburetors brought to me that have nothing more than scum and varnish that have built up in the passages due to sitting and poor fuel management. The engines that I get that fail due to oil related  issues are almost always from coking which builds up and does not allow the blow by needed to lubricate the bottom end bearings. (coking and carbon build up are the same thing) Once the ring stops floating in the grooves  they will be referred to as (stuck) and they will start to scar the cylinders and this creates heat and expansion. Eventually the compression between the cylinders will create an unbalanced up and down force and destroys the bearings supporting the crank. Finally with all of this unbalanced forces it will break the piston wrist pin and send the crank thru the casings. Depending on the amount of forces at work this can sometimes give you enough warning before it destroys itself or it can be within minutes. 

Art

I run Mercury Quickleen every few tanks of fuel as well to clean out any carbon build up from trolling.

[DRIFTER_016]

3 hours ago, AKRISONER said:

Art,

Ive made it a deal that rather then deal with fuel additives ive started to only purchase ethanol free premium gas for the boat. Do you think this is good enough for the outboard vs using a product like "ring free"

I also run only ethanol free fuel in my boat.

I use regular Stabil in every tank of fuel as well to keep the fuel from going stale if I don't use the boat for a while.

I double up the amount late in the season so it's well stabilized for the winter.

[aplumma]

5 hours ago, AKRISONER said:

Art,

Ive made it a deal that rather then deal with fuel additives ive started to only purchase ethanol free premium gas for the boat. Do you  think this is good enough for the outboard vs using a product like "ring free"

The Sta bil does two things one is for ethanol and as a decarboning  product. If you are running ethanol free gas then you still should run some kind of decarboning product. I am not sure what ring free is but the name implies decarboning. Many different fluids use basically the same ingredient with there own secret blend to make it better than others so as long as it is a trusted name you can use it. This said I use these products. Decarboning is Stabil 360 and Seafoam . Ethanol management Stabil 360. Carb disassembly  brake cleaner non chlorine. Two stroke lubrication Amsoil 100:1 marine. Winterizing or 1 month storage any engine fogging oil marine.

 

2 hours ago, DRIFTER_016 said:

I also run only ethanol free fuel in my boat.

I use regular Stabil in every tank of fuel as well to keep the fuel from going stale if I don't use the boat for a while.

I double up the amount late in the season so it's well stabilized for the winter.

I like all of what you are doing but see if you can Find Sta bil 360 it has 2 advantages it is twice as concentrated and it creates a fog in the tank that cuts down on corrosion in the tank. I have stored aluminum/ steel tanks with stabil 360 and they all have shown no oxidation/ rust inside when I returned them to service. With the cost of marine engine repairs taking the time and effort to use a few additives pays off in years of service and fewer break downs. I am a big fan of prevention and over building engines to keep them running smoothly for years to come. 

 

Art

[AKRISONER]

im feeling good about my choices then as I have been using seafoam in my gas for stabalization and de-carbonating 

 

I have never been a fan of 2 strokes and ethanol...to me they are just straight up a no go.

[jimmer]

2 hours ago, Fisherman said:

I called the main distribution center here in Mississauga,  Amsoil won't ship that particular product here anymore, unfortunate.

I can't figure out why; there is a good demand for marine products in this country.  I guess I will try Nautalis, the HP that amsoil sells is for injection motors and I was told that injection oil doesn't always stay suspended in a pre-mixed tank.

[aplumma]

1 hour ago, jimmer said:

I can't figure out why; there is a good demand for marine products in this country.  I guess I will try Nautalis, the HP that amsoil sells is for injection motors and I was told that injection oil doesn't always stay suspended in a pre-mixed tank.

   This is a quote from one of my manuals on high performance two strokes.

 

 Oils made for oil injection use have a considerably thinner viscosity than oils intended for premix.  It is unwise to use a premix type oil in an injector because a premix type oil can have difficulty passing through the small orifices in many oil-injection systems.  On the same tack, it is a very bad idea to use an "oil-injection" oil in a premix application because the reduced viscosity will not offer the lubrication needed in a pre-mix situation.

 

art

[jimmer]

16 hours ago, aplumma said:

   This is a quote from one of my manuals on high performance two strokes.

 

 Oils made for oil injection use have a considerably thinner viscosity than oils intended for premix.  It is unwise to use a premix type oil in an injector because a premix type oil can have difficulty passing through the small orifices in many oil-injection systems.  On the same tack, it is a very bad idea to use an "oil-injection" oil in a premix application because the reduced viscosity will not offer the lubrication needed in a pre-mix situation.

 

art

Thanks Art.