Did I get taken?? (nf)

[bigcreekdad]

For what its worth, I had my 60hp Yamaha 4 stroke winterized yesterday at my marina in northern Mich....oil filter, fog stuff, new oil, Stabil, and had trailer bearings greased. Labor...$45. Parts, oil, etc $57.

[irishfield]

Capt.. there is no engine oil in an Optimax.. it's a 2 stroke and as for lower gear oil, not out of the norm to remove the lower screw.. see nothing but clean gear oil and put the screw back in. No point wasting 700 ml of gear oil at $24.95/ litre if it's still like new.

[DRIFTER_016]

not out of the norm to remove the lower screw.. see nothing but clean gear oil and put the screw back in. No point wasting 700 ml of gear oil at $24.95/ litre if it's still like new.

 

Yup. Nothing but perfect blue OEM oil in my lower unit and it is 2 seasons old now.

[captpierre]

Capt.. there is no engine oil in an Optimax.. it's a 2 stroke and as for lower gear oil, not out of the norm to remove the lower screw.. see nothing but clean gear oil and put the screw back in. No point wasting 700 ml of gear oil at $24.95/ litre if it's still like new.

 

So, this is new to me.

 

Check the gear oil and leave it in? What would be a bad sign?

 

Water would settle to the bottom I presume

 

I might put 50 hrs/yr. Can it be left in for 2 yrs?

[irishfield]

Yes.. if it's sat for a period of time water is heavier than oil and will come out first... or the oil will look milky. If it comes out looking like it went in, it's generally fine after low usage. I generally do my 9.9's lower unit oil every second year. I always do my 275's.

[Old Ironmaker]

I used to get Fishmasters to winterize the 115 Merc and shrinkwrap for around $275.00, I learned how to winterize it last year and it's so simple if I can do it anyone can. Watched UTube videos and watched it done once on a pals. I provided the lower gear lube and fogging spray. I don't know if any plumbers anti freeze was used in the livewells and bilge. I didn't see that done on UTube or the pals boat but did it on my own last year. I thought I came up with that on my own, heck I was going to patent the procedure! LOL. I even changed the fuel line and bulb!!!! It all took at least 45 minutes, no more than an hour including removing the battery for a first timer last year. It was 225 for the shrinkwrap this year from Fishmasters.

 

Yes you got fleeced, that price is ludicrous even if they tuned it up and changed the fuel filter, I did that too on my own, if you knew my mechanical dexterity you all would be amazed.

Edited November 5, 2014 by Old Ironmaker

[Mister G]

Did my 60 hp E-TEC in the driveway the other day. Stabil has already been added to both tanks. Connected hose to outboard port on the back of the engine. Turned on the water, put throttle all the way up while keeping motor in neutral, start motor and run 15 seconds, now put throttle all the way down and run another 15 seconds. You can observe the check lights going through it's testing while doing this. Now return the throttle all the way up and engine RPM's will increase somewhat. Engine will run for about 1 minute and shut itself off. The engine is now fogged and ready for winter storage.

 

See here..........

 

 

 

But of course a check on the lower unit oil must be done too. I also grease ALL zerk fittings on the engine and also do the wheel bearings.

 

One more thing, I add moth balls to each compartment AND under the engine hood. I use small plastic bags with holes cut in them to hold the moth balls.

 

Next week I will take the boat to it's indoor winter resting place. They allow me to keep the boat plugged in so no need to remove the 2 batteries as I have a on-board charging system to maintain my power sources.

 

Total cost under $10 especially since I already have the Stabil and grease on hand.

Edited November 5, 2014 by Mister G

[jbailey]

"remove boat drain plugs"

 

wow

Edited November 5, 2014 by jbailey

[jimmer]

I would actually want to check the work to make sure everything was done properly. I remember one year bringing in my outboard to be winterized (I usually did it myself). I paid for the work that they said was done (felt I was over charged), which included changing a prop shaft seal. Put it on my boat in the spring and the lower end blew a month later because they didn't put oil in it. I had no way to prove it, but.........

Definitely learn to do it yourself, it's easier than you think. Went to another marina to see how much to fix, they quoted $2000, which was more than the motor was worth at the time. I looked around a little and found a lower unit for $250 and replaced the seized (I mean seized LOL) unit myself.

I don't want to offend any marine mechanics on here, but I have never had a good experience in this field. Not including all the horror stories that I have heard over the years.

[smally21]

Sorry to see this sort of thing go on..650 would be more reasonable if there was shrink wrapping and 4 months of storage thrown in.

 

The job should be around 250$..maybe a little more, nothing comes cheap in marineland.

 

My other concern about work like this is it is very hard to prove any of it was done..I mean, a tech checks the lower unit oil and its perfect..so why change it? Same with prop removal..short of finding 1000' of mono around the shaft who is to say the work was done?

 

Im only bringing that into the equation because a guy that charges 3X the going rate for 45 minutes worth of work is the same guy that might just say ahh skip it..there is no "evidence" a motor has been fogged.

 

It would take longer to fill out that invoice than it would to winterize the boat. Don't forget this takes Joe boatowner a few hours..these guys have every tool and trick sitting out ready on their workbench..and should be twice as fast.

Edited November 5, 2014 by smally21

[FishOn]

Best revenge is name the marina. I won't take my business there for sure. Thx

[irishfield]

He already did...

[DanD]

 

Don't forget this takes Joe boatowner a few hours..these guys have every tool and trick sitting out ready on their workbench..and should be twice as fast.

 

Believe me I'm not defending this shop; because it does sound like the OP was taken advantage of. This kind of thing hurts all of us in the service industry.

But in an honest shop, why wouldn't they charge a flat rate to do this winterizing; regardless of how long it actually took the tech to preform all said work?

Like in the quote above "every tool and trick"; no one gave that tech the tools or the years of experience to be able to do the job quickly and proficiently.

I have spent thousands of dollars on equipment that is not necessarily needed to perform a said job; but that tool has made the job easier and faster. If the flat rate pays 1 hour to do a job and with this tool I can do it in 3/4s of an hour; I'm sorry the customer gets charged the hour; that's business.

 

Dan.

[doubleheader]

If the winterization includes engine oil, filter, lower unit lube (actually changing it), prop maintenance, grease, gas treatment, and treating plumbing, all things typically associated with winterization, then a typical cost for a 4 stroke would be around $250.00. If they dropped the lower unit things can get pricey in a hurry, and the $650 is not completely unreasonable. As a customer I would have an expectation that i approve anything additional, such as dropping the lower unit, before the work is completed.

Edited November 6, 2014 by doubleheader