bare foot wader Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 lose the occasional tooth critter which i'm ok with, generally not targeting pike and musky with harnesses regular wire kinks easily, titanium wire is pricey and both require additional knots/crimps...where as mono is much faster to rig up with a couple snells
mike rousseau Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 If you making them for yourself... And that's if... You better off making a kit and bringing that instead of 20 spinners on a noodle... I have a small box with all the different beads... Blades... Hooks...quick change Clevises I need and a spool of whatever line you decide on... If I need a spinner it takes 5 minutes to make one... Then I don't worry about running out of "red and silver".... I can make as many as I want...
misfish Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Posted July 3, 2014 (edited) Well,I made two. What ya think? I found some trout beads in my tickle trunk. The seem to work ok. Edited July 3, 2014 by Misfish
bare foot wader Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 nice, no doubt they'll get bites looks like the line is sitting funny off the snell on the front hook, but don't think that matters much, but maybe affect how it pulls? I rig up a bunch ready to fish at home, in my favourite colour/blade/bead combinations, but I also keep a few bare hooks snelled so I can rig to conditions only reason I like flat foam better to store the rigs, is because it sits nicer in my tackle bag...pool foam is a bit bulky
fishnsled Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 (edited) I see no reason why they won't catch a fish. Get out there and give us a field tested report. Edit - I see what you're saying BFW. In this link the end of the line comes out the bottom and in the image it is cut, in Brian's case it would go to the second hook. It appears to come off the top of your hook B and may give it some weird action. I've never made my own and certainly no expert. http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/snell-knot-uni-version/ Edited July 3, 2014 by fishnsled
misfish Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Posted July 3, 2014 looks like the line is sitting funny off the snell on the front hook, but don't think that matters much, but maybe affect how it pulls? Ya,I dont think I but enough wraps. Im sure I will get better at it. I went with 25 lb test. Only cause were I/we troll them,there are toothy critters. I,ll be trying different lb tests Thanks
kickingfrog Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 Plenty tied up. Most with quick change clevises. Spare blades, beads and weights inside the yellow tubes. I'll tie new ones on the water if I have to but I hate tying on the water. Too many fish to catch, a boat to control, too wavy and too cold to manipulate fingers for good knots. Compared to the space that all my lures take up a couple dozen harnesses and spare parts is negligible.
misfish Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Posted July 3, 2014 As for space Rob,my float a boat dosent have that much storge. I will be using a slip bullet weight, to get it down. I dont think I can get the flippers moving me 1 mph
Roy Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 Nice Brian but there's another little thing you should look at.....if you're using two different size blades, always put the small blade at the front. The way yours are set up, the larger blade at the front will stop the rear smaller blade from turning. That's why spinnerbaits always have the small blade at the front. BTW, I make mine 3' to 4' long with a small swivel at the front.
misfish Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Posted July 3, 2014 Nice Brian but there's another little thing you should look at.....if you're using two different size blades, always put the small blade at the front. The way yours are set up, the larger blade at the front will stop the rear smaller blade from turning. That's why spinnerbaits always have the small blade at the front. BTW, I make mine 3' to 4' long with a small swivel at the front. Now you tell me brudder. Ya,I can see how that would not work. I do have swivels for attaching the main line to. Back to the drawing board. Thanks for the tips Roy.
Spanky80 Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 (edited) Well,I made two. What ya think? I found some trout beads in my tickle trunk. The seem to work ok. Look good Misfish! Here is another link that might help with the 2nd hook orientation: http://www.thebeacon.net/local-news/item/3229 I might suggest adding some smaller beads around the blades on the first harness, those large beads might interfere with your blades. Last year when I used pre-made harnesses, I lost a few nice fish close to the boat, but now that I can choose a higher quality (and slightly larger) hook(s), seems to have made a difference...not that I've set the walleye world on fire yet this season. Edited July 4, 2014 by Spanky
Sinker Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 I like single blades, and never make them longer than 2ft. No need for where I fish. I honestly find the simpler the better. My all time fav is silver hammered colorado blade with red beads. Catches everything that swims. S.
kickingfrog Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 As for space Rob,my float a boat dosent have that much storge. I will be using a slip bullet weight, to get it down. I dont think I can get the flippers moving me 1 mph That's why you would use a single yellow tube. And if there isn't space for that then the only option would be small zip top bags that you could put individual harnesses.
misfish Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Posted July 3, 2014 I might suggest adding some smaller beads around the blades on the first harness, those large beads might interfere with your blades. I thought that as well. I swung the harness and it seems to spin. Time will tell. Thanks for the additional link. I make mine 3' to 4' long Well I reversed the blades Roy,and now have a 6 inch harness. I sure hope size dosent matter here. I like single blades, and never make them longer than 2ft. No need for where I fish. Shane,they are both 12 inches long.. Wll they were before the correction. the only option would be small zip top bags that you could put individual harnesses Those I have lots of. One for the cell,one for the smokes and lighter,and so on.. Now back to tying.
wormdunker Posted July 4, 2014 Report Posted July 4, 2014 Good job, I like 'em! I tie mine 48" long, I like to keep the baited hooks away from the swivel which is connected to the bottom bouncer = less hardware to spook the fish.
Sinker Posted July 4, 2014 Report Posted July 4, 2014 Yes, off a bottom bouncer, 4ft is standard. I only use a bouncer in 20ft or deeper, and its not very often I have to fish that deep. Generally in water less than 15ft, a 1/4 oz bullet weight 2ft from the spinner will get you down where the fish are, with about 100ft of line out, trolling 1.3-1.5 mph. I like them 2ft because most times the weight will catch the weeds, and the spinner will still be clear. Its a lot easier to manage a 2ft lead than a 4 ft lead in that situation IMO. I also find a lot of times when I hook a weed, I give it a good rip, and right when the spinner frees from the weeds is when the fish will hit.....there is a short pause as it comes off the weeds, and whammo! S.
DRIFTER_016 Posted July 4, 2014 Report Posted July 4, 2014 Don't forget to tie a few with Spin and Glows or floating beads for those times you want a little buoyancy to get your offering up off the bottom.
brw Posted July 4, 2014 Report Posted July 4, 2014 Agree I use 15 or 20 lb florouclear P-Line. Only real difference is the 20 lb is a little harder to snell b/c the diameter of the line is too thick for some hooks' eyelets as you try to double back to snell the hook. Both sizes acquitted themselves well recently after a week of pounding by both the rocks and walleyes of Georgian Bay. I was pleasantly surprised with their durability. Also, I have found that the easiest way to store is to slice a section of pool noodle about 3/4 to 1 in and thread the harness one per slice. The blade sits well inside the hole and you can stuff a bunch individually into a plastic tackle tray. This worked better for me than slicing a larger section and threading 5-6 per section.
Scott S Posted July 5, 2014 Report Posted July 5, 2014 Hey Brian, I used to hand tie my hooks, but found pre tie hooks on 14lb fluoro 48" long at bass pro. I can make a whack of rigs in no time and way easier on the hands. They also come with red hooks that make a big difference in my opinion. Scooter
misfish Posted July 5, 2014 Author Report Posted July 5, 2014 Hey thanks Scooter. Maybe Cabelas will have them.
Sinker Posted July 5, 2014 Report Posted July 5, 2014 I prefer the red hooks too....no rust!! I dont think the fish care, but no rust is a bonus! S.
misfish Posted July 5, 2014 Author Report Posted July 5, 2014 Shane Fish will hit a red hook un baited. I,ll be giving my harness,s a work out Sunday AM.
misfish Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Posted July 7, 2014 Question Can I run two blades that are the same size? BTW The ones I have already made worked well. No hook ups yet,but nice to see they work. Thanks all for your help.
kickingfrog Posted July 7, 2014 Report Posted July 7, 2014 I rarely make mine with two blades, but lots do and never have issues. Just use enough beads to keep the blades far enough apart.
Roy Posted July 7, 2014 Report Posted July 7, 2014 Most of my double blades are the same size...usually 3 1/2 or 4.
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