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Freezing Engines!


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Tinbangers report got me thinking...I imagine everyone that is still boating knows this...But, some might not. Its good to lower and drain your outboard at the launch, however, waterjackets aren't likely to freeze up solid enough to do any serious harm. BUT, your water pump is extremely suseptable to damage from freezing. Give the key a turn and crank the motor a few times to clear the water pump before heading home.

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Also, when you get to the launch and put your boat in don't be in a hurry to start it. Let the water get in there and loosen up things like the water pump impellor that may be iced to the housing with the last remains of water from the last trip out.


Many trailers don't sit high enough to allow the motor to be fully down to drain. If you do it right at waters edge on the ramp it will help with the angle and besides you should be waiting for your trailer to drain there anyhow so the next guy doesn't slide into the lake on your ice.

Edited by irishfield
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I always put a bit of gasline antfreeze in with my gas as well. I've had the carb freeze up solid on mine, and it sucks!!


And good point about turning over the engine to get the water out at the ramp...another thing I always do.



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Irishfield, you are right, even in the summer months I lower my outboard into the water as low as possible to let the water migrate into the pump before starting. It only takes a few seconds of running your motor with no water in the inpellar to start ruining your water pump. Haste makes waste ya know!! Excellent advise.

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Most outboards are self draining.

The water pump has a small hole in the housing.

This lets water up to prime pump at first submersion,

and drain the system on haulout.

You really should never run you outboard without water.

Even 5 seconds can melt down your waterpump.

Spin your car tires on dry road and then wet road, you"l see what I mean!

Seadoos and jet boats should always be started after haulout, but not anything with a rubber waterpump.

Just a thought.


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