Sebastian Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Hey guys, Im winterizing my boat for the first time. I read a whole bunch online. I have a 17' lund with a 90 yamaha 4 stroke and a 9.9hp high thrust 4 stroke kicker. I changed the oil to synthetic 10w30 and new filters. Now im looking at this lower unit oil and i see there are bottle pumps that make it easy. Wondering if it is an absolute must or are there other techniques out there? I bought synthetic gear oil from CTC. Not sure if its the right stuff. Im also wondering how people are running antifreeze through the outboard. Cant seem to see where to get it in there. Also fogging??? Any help would be appreciated. I know some of this may be common sense but this is my first time doing it and i've read a bit about it and it hasnt clarified anything so i figured i'd double check to be safe. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aniceguy Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) put a stabilizer into your gas and run it on your dirveway for 20 plus minutes on muffs. change the lower unit oil by draining it with both screws removed, fill from the bottom until oil comes out of the top hole inspect the gasket if ok tighten it up. Remove the spark plugs and use a fogging oil bought from your dealer, while the stuff from CT is ok, I always use OEM products to validate any warranty work if there is an issue. If you look in the boating section at CT there is usally a pump there you can buy that screws onto the cap of the fluid Remove the plugs and inject a smal amount of fogging oil into each cylinder, leave the kill switch off and turn the engine over with the plugs out for a few seconds. Re insert plugs your done. You have a 4 stroke so change the oil and filter pour plumbing anti freeze into the outlet holes for your bilge and other pumps, then rig a plastic pipe equal to the diamiter of your intake holes prime it and turn the pumps on to take some fluid into your pumps and wells. A hint I bought a huge funnel at CT and I fill it so that there is no air in the lines and then turn the pumps on, as long as each line sucks in a cup or two your golden Your done get a beer Edited December 4, 2011 by aniceguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zamboniwaterboy Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Aniceguy has almost everything. While the motor is running, spray engine fog into the carbs until the engine stalls. With the muffs on run some antifreeze through the engine if you want to be really diligent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Bob Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Great advice from aniceguy, but also see if there are any zerk fitting for the motor AND steering....I have several...pumping in new grease will force out any water in those areas. I have NEVER heard of anti-freeze for a outboard motor...they are self draining...just raise and lower the out board a few times and all the water will run out.... Now depending on where the boat will be stored (hopefully indoors) you might want to put some moth balls under the motor cover and in several spots throughout the boat....I just take a small plastic bag and place 6 moth balls in it...then cut several small holes in the bag with scissors or a poke them with a knife...this has kept mice out of my boat for the last 26 years....hopefully again this year. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) Now im looking at this lower unit oil and i see there are bottle pumps that make it easy. Wondering if it is an absolute must or are there other techniques out there? I bought synthetic gear oil from CTC. Not sure if its the right stuff. The pump for the lower unit oil bottle definetly makes it easier. Not sure about your motor, but for my 150 Yamaha the threads on the motor are different than the threads on the pump bottle and you have to buy an adapter from your Yamaha dealer. And I agree with the others, there's no need for anti-freeze in the motor. Just trim it all the way down past center and it'll drain just fine by itself. Not sure about the synthetic oil though but then again I'm not a mechanic, but I've always been a firm believer in using the oils recommended by the manufacturer, specially if this is a new motor. Edited December 4, 2011 by lew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) GET A BEER... put a stabilizer into your gas and run it on your dirveway for 20 plus minutes on muffs. GET A BEER... change the lower unit oil by draining it with both screws removed, GET A BEER... fill from the bottom until oil comes out of the top hole inspect the gasket if ok tighten it up. GET A BEER... Remove the spark plugs and use a fogging oil bought from your dealer, GET A BEER... while the stuff from CT is ok, I always use OEM products to validate any warranty work if there is an issue. If you look in the boating section at CT there is usally a pump there you can buy that screws onto the cap of the fluid Remove the plugs and inject a smal amount of fogging oil into each cylinder, I'VE ALL READY DONE THAT, TOO MANY BEER... leave the kill switch off and turn the engine over with the plugs out for a few seconds. GET A BEER...Re insert plugs your done. You have a 4 stroke so change the oil and filter GET A BEER... pour plumbing anti freeze into the outlet holes for your bilge and other pumps, DON'T DRINK THIS, YOU'LL GO BLIND, GET A BEER INSTEAD...then rig a plastic pipe equal to the diamiter of your intake holes prime it and turn the pumps on to take some fluid into your pumps and wells. A hint I bought a huge funnel at CT BUY 2, THEY WORK FOR BEER AS WELL...and I fill it so that there is no air in the lines and then turn the pumps on, GRAVITY WORKS FOR THE BEER... as long as each line sucks in a cup OR CAN or two your golden DON'T BUY GOLDEN ANTI-FREEZE, YOU MAY CONFUSE IT WITH THE BEER, YOU'LL GO BLIND... Your done get a beer, FINALLY, I NEED A DRINK ...or the real life version... Edited December 4, 2011 by Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookinforwalleye Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 Assuming you don`t have a Yamaha manual go to the Yamaha web sites and download the manual, follow the instructions in the manual and your good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbuck Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 The pump is pretty much a must as you fill the lower unit from the bottom. If there is a Princess Auto near you, you can pick one up there CHEAP. I bought one 2 weeks ago for $3!! Otherwise, you can get one at West Marine. Fogging your motors isn't a necessity but it should be done to prevent any corrosion in the cylinders/combustion chambers. Fuel stabilizer (pick your poison) run through the engines for a minimum of 5-10 minutes. Oil changes and lube whatever zerk fittings there are and you should be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillM Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 Crap, I forgot to put antifreeze in the bilge.... I guess it's back up to Coldwater tonight to do that, lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raf Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 (edited) if you decide to get the pump from PA to pump the lower unit oil in, you will need an adapter for your Yamaha. The two supplied adaptors in the PA package will not work with the threads (at least on my 40HP Yammy). It's not a must, you can squeeze the oil in from the bottom straight from the bottom.. but it would make it easier. Edited December 5, 2011 by Raf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 If all else fails and you can't find the right tip for the pump, get the little cone shaped top that fits on the end of caulking tubes or RTV Silicone. Then jam the pump in the open end and cut off just enough to get inside the lower fill hole of the outboard. Worked for me for at least 15 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 Dont' forget folks... every tube of Anusol Hemorrhidal ointment comes with an all outboard fill adapter that's perfect for the job!! No need to venture any further than the medicine cabinet or the local drug store! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Dont' forget folks... every tube of Anusol Hemorrhidal ointment comes with an all outboard fill adapter that's perfect for the job!! No need to venture any further than the medicine cabinet or the local drug store! I've been stewing on this one since 12:30 today, every time I go to bend over and tie my boot, I have visions...a chubby, vertical height challenged individual running around with a pump in hand with an Anussol tip attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigeontroller Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Aniceguy has almost everything. While the motor is running, spray engine fog into the carbs until the engine stalls. With the muffs on run some antifreeze through the engine if you want to be really diligent. Fogging through carbs is for non-injected 2-strokes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted December 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 Thanks guys. Completed everything. Worked like a charm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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