danbouck Posted April 24, 2011 Report Posted April 24, 2011 I need to get the cottage all ready for the year and there are a couple things that I have never done and need some help on. First - I need to prime the water pump when I turn the water on. I am assuming that I pour water down the outlet pipe and just switch it on, making sure it always has water until it starts pumping. Am I completely wrong I've never even looked at it before but I can figure most things out. Second - We need to clean the chimney. I wanted to strap the kids to a rope and hang them down there but it didn't go over so well I am curious if those cleaning logs actually work or what my options are. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
bushart Posted April 24, 2011 Report Posted April 24, 2011 Danny--Danny---prime the pump on the inlet side Find the size of your chimney and buy the proper rods and brushes
bushart Posted April 24, 2011 Report Posted April 24, 2011 Should add--remove stove pipe at bottom---tape garbage bag around bottom Drive brush down from top---look down chimney 1st before bagging it to see how clean it is. If your really, really unsure maybe get a contractor----if you don't put your piping back together right---and cause fire or damage---insurance may or may not cover you. either way be careful
danbouck Posted April 25, 2011 Author Report Posted April 25, 2011 No removable pipes, looking down from the top isn't that easy either
bushart Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 OK that's cool----put a trouble lite or bright flashlight at bottom and it lites it up to see Looks like puttin pipes back together a non issue
bushart Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 Again I post before tellin you all---light at bottom but look down from top Your lookin for creosote blockage (like shiny coal) or disintegrating bricks inside
bigugli Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 Current insurance rules require a clean and inspection, on a regular basis, by certified professionals. Else your insurance for the property is null and void as pertains to fire. I got into a nasty fight with an insurer some years back over that point, and lost.
The Urban Fisherman Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 Dude let me know when you go down to prime the pu p and I'm there!
danbouck Posted April 25, 2011 Author Report Posted April 25, 2011 Dude let me know when you go down to prime the pu p and I'm there! Next Saturday AM, I'll give you a shout this week
Fisherman Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 Most pumps have a priming plug on the top of the impeller houseing, usually a square plug, unscrew that and pour the water in there.
The Urban Fisherman Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 Next Saturday AM, I'll give you a shout this week Sounds good!
Billy Bob Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 The amount of creosote build up depends on how your chimney is vented...the straighter the runs the better...creosote tends to build up near turns and where the chimney gets colder....and of course the type and quality of wood you burn.... On my wood burning stove I have a straight run up and out the roof...with this simple design I collect almost no creosote whatsoever. So what I am saying is look at turns in the vent and also near the top of the chimney where it's the coldest as that is where the creosote will be found....you should be able to remove the upper side of fire brick to access that fire place insert...that will provide a good view of the vent depending on where your first turn is...it is a VERY DIRTY job so have clean up supplies at your side, including a vacuum. However you really need to get to the top of that chimney and remove and inspect the cover so you can look directly down the vent....again depending on the wood burn't you may not find much creosote... Bottom line this is a easy job IF you can access the system from the bottom and top. Good Luck, Bob
danbouck Posted April 25, 2011 Author Report Posted April 25, 2011 Thanks Everyone, It runs straight up and only kiln dried hardwood has been burned in it so I don't expect there to be much creosote.
Billy Bob Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 Thanks Everyone, It runs straight up and only kiln dried hardwood has been burned in it so I don't expect there to be much creosote. If that's the case you probably wouldn't be cleaning much if any creosote out of the chimney....I have gone 3-4 years without cleaning out mine and even then almost nothing in it... a good straight run and good wood makes all the difference in the world....now go catch a fish... Bob
Dara Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 Current insurance rules require a clean and inspection, on a regular basis, by certified professionals. Else your insurance for the property is null and void as pertains to fire. I got into a nasty fight with an insurer some years back over that point, and lost. I hope they are better trained than home inspectors or its a waste of money
irishfield Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 3 fireplaces.. 16 years... they still take my insurance premiums.
solopaddler Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 Regarding the pump. Beyond priming it make sure the foot valve is functioning properly. I always put a new one on to start the year. They don't cost much and at least mine tend to get gummed up over the winter.
Guest ThisPlaceSucks Posted April 25, 2011 Report Posted April 25, 2011 (edited) not sure of your setup but i put a small marine bilge pump on my priming port to make things easier.. not a bad idea if you're bored and don't mind tinkering with stuff. Edited April 25, 2011 by Dr. Salvelinus
HTHM Posted April 26, 2011 Report Posted April 26, 2011 not sure of your setup but i put a small marine bilge pump on my priming port to make things easier.. not a bad idea if you're bored and don't mind tinkering with stuff. That is a GREAT! idea.
bigugli Posted April 26, 2011 Report Posted April 26, 2011 3 fireplaces.. 16 years... they still take my insurance premiums. They'll keep taking your money. It's when you file the claim that they point out the clause in extra fine print. The onus is on the homeowner to have proof of compliance, aka a receipt.
danc Posted April 26, 2011 Report Posted April 26, 2011 I don't imagine that getting your chimney sweeper licence requires a 5 year university degree. Probably an afternoon course. It might be worth getting your own "ticket" and doing it yourself. You could probably make a few bucks on the side too. I looked into getting my WETT (Wood Energy Technical Training) certificate a couple of years ago which would allow me to install and inspect wood burning appliance installations, which should be far more technical that a sweepers licence (lol... sweepers licence. I love that) and it was only a couple days for that course.
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