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Is florocarbon leader REALLY better than mono leader?


okumasheffield

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Went fish today and got snagged so many times to the point I was thinking about

using regular mono leaders who are 2 times cheaper

 

Have heard a lot about how great florocarbon is and wonder if it really does make any difference?

 

some say florocarbon is less visible ... well, how can it be proven?

 

some say florocarbon lasts longer ... any words from old-timers

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Guest ThisPlaceSucks

i would suggest that when the getting is good and you're catching lots you might not notice the difference but when fish are lockjaw or pressured, the low diameter/low vis fluoro might shine.

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NOPE

 

I use good old 4 pound test Maxima ultragreen and hardly ever break off (1 fish this season, and it was my fault)

 

Aside from the non breaking, I also catch a good number of fish

 

all sans flouro

Edited by kemper
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Can't speak for others but as far as I'm concerned fluoro isn't the be all and end all like some make it out to be.

I use it maybe 20% of the time when steelheading only when absolutely necessary (gin clear froggy water), mono the rest of the time.

Learning how to read the water and present your bait properly is way more important.

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"Mike the Pike" is correct!!!

So is "solopaddler"!!

I found out the hard way too!!

Don't think it matters as much in dirty or highly stained water....But after a foot vis, I'm going to fluoro!!

If your going to run regular mono...Go with small diameter like Ande's tournament 6lb!!

Cheers

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Can't speak for others but as far as I'm concerned fluoro isn't the be all and end all like some make it out to be.

I use it maybe 20% of the time when steelheading only when absolutely necessary (gin clear froggy water), mono the rest of the time.

Learning how to read the water and present your bait properly is way more important.

I am going to agree with this statement. Only reason for this agreement is the fact that Solo gets it done like nobody I have ever seen before. Much respect.

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It makes a difference icefishing, that is 100% for sure.

 

I've seen it too many times now not to believe it.

 

Any slow fishing days, I use it. If they are on, they're on......doesn't matter. It is much more abrasion resistant than mono too. It can take some abuse.

 

For trib fishing, I'd use it if it was gin clear, but otherwise, there's no need. Like already said, presentation is key!

 

Sinker

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Along with the visibility issue, fluorocarbon leader material has more abrasion resistance. So if you are likely to be encountering any toothy critters, tie on a foot or so of FC to the end of your line. Works for me.

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Some old timers told me that with mono leaders, you are supposed to change them after dipping in the water for 15mins because it deteriates .... is it true?

 

never heard of something like that, seems pretty stupid to me. Sounds like they were just trying to make you re-tie and take your spot LOL.

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In the big picture of things, I don't think it makes a difference... if it did, commercial netters would not have nets full of fish to pull up.

If line spooked fish, they wouldn't swim head first into 100lb plus mono net strung arcoss the river or lake.

HH

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Guest gbfisher

Use it for ice fishing and for salmon fishing and for Musky fishing for the no stretch. It makes a difference ........ in these situtaions.

I use reg mono leaders in summer for spinner rigs. I like the little bit of stretch for pickerel fishing,,,,I use braid for the main line though.

 

there is more than river fishing after all.... :lol: .... ;)

Edited by gbfisher
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Use it for ice fishing and for salmon fishing and for Musky fishing for the no stretch. It makes a difference ........ in these situtaions.

I use reg mono leaders in summer for spinner rigs. I like the little bit of stretch for pickerel fishing,,,,I use braid for the main line though.

 

there is more than river fishing after all.... :lol: .... ;)

 

 

how dare you B)

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It all depends on the type of presentation and water clarity. If you are presenting a horizontal moving lure going for a reaction strike then fluoro isn't necessary. But if you are drifting under a float in frog water and the water clarity is more then a foot then it can make all the difference in the world. When the guy next to you using a fluoro leader outfishes you 5-1 then you will learn.

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When the guy next to you using a fluoro leader outfishes you 5-1 then you will learn.

 

How can you be sure that it's just the fluoro that is making the difference? There's a ton of other factors that might explain why a guy fishing next to you is out fishing you. The waters that I fish make gin look cloudy, and I do ok with straight mono.

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I have tried both under many conditions ... I prefer the way the mono behaves ... its actually that much more supple under cold conditions which makes it easier to present naturally .. also that extra stretch allows a more 'springy' hookset ... I feel I actually break off more often with flouro (all else being equal)...

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Floro is closer th the refractive index of water then mono is. That is what all the visibility clams are about. All my ice rods use floro or a floro mix. The abrasion resistance is nice.

 

Mono will absorb water and "swell". YOu can really notice the colour change in the green lines available if you have a reel spooled with it.

 

THe biggest advantage for those of us not on the tribs has more to do with durability. It's tough stuff, and doesnt take on water. I often use it as a leader material for my bass spinning outfit. Also made a couple worm harnesses outa some heaver floro, and then there is always the pike and muskey leaders made from the really heavy stuff.

 

It isnt some miracle line as the advertising would have you believe. It's one more tool in the tackle box of tricks. Can it benefit your catch...Yes, Sometimes.

 

-Dave

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I gotta agree with whats been said, mono will work just as well as fluoro. I have been using the chameleon and ultra green as long as I can remember with great results when drifting. In fact, because I bounce more then drift I often just run stright 6# in gin clear water with no problems.

 

 

 

 

 

It all depends on the type of presentation and water clarity. If you are presenting a horizontal moving lure going for a reaction strike then fluoro isn't necessary. But if you are drifting under a float in frog water and the water clarity is more then a foot then it can make all the difference in the world. When the guy next to you using a fluoro leader outfishes you 5-1 then you will learn.

 

 

 

hummm :)

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As is true of much of today's technology there is a time and place, although I would not use Fluoro for anything but leader material for spinning/casting/trolling or tipett for fly fishing. I don't like the way it handles in general off the reel nor the way it reacts as a trapered leader off my fly rod. It definitely is less visible in the water which is a primary benefit, and it also is abrasion resistant, I believe it also sinks and is somehat stff. A properly tied wet knot is critical. Probably more unintended variation between manufacturers in fluorocarbon than mono, especially early on in the development. When conditions allow I avoid it, when they call for it I use it.

Edited by doubleheader
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