BASS AND JIGS

[canadian_copper]

WELL WITH THE BASS SEASON SOON UPON US I HAVE TO EXPAND MY KNOWLEDGE LOL

IVE BEEN TOLD A 100 TIMES THAT JIGS ARE ONE OF THE MOST DEADLY WAYS TO GET BIG BUCKETS!!

I HAVE NEVER THROWN 1 IN MY LIFE!! I SEEM TO BE STUCK WITH THROWING MY 5"SENKO.

SO I BOUGHT SOME THE OTHER DAY!!

ANY TIPS OR TRICKS FROM EXPERIENCED JIG GUYS??

TX

[bushart]

Bump the stump brother---bump the stump

 

pockets around cover is usually a good start---under docks is a standard

 

Bushart

[1leggedangler]

Keep contact with the bottem Fish slow with them and you'll have a bend in the rod in no time. Good luck and congrats with trying a new presentation, always a challenge!

 

Cheers,

1leg

[BabyHerc]

A 6'6" heavy rod for pitching around docks and for general casting duty, or a 7'6" for hardcore flipping in the thickest of cover. Use braid for better hooksets and to better feel. Work the brush guard on new jigs back and forth to weaken the pivot point and allow for easier hooksets. Pork trailers in fall, plastic trailers in summer. 1/4 oz jigs for under 5 feet and sparse weeds, up to 1 oz for the thickest of weeds.

[super dave]

Hey Scott. Bruce here.

jiggle it. then slow lift retrieve. jiggle it again. Works for me.

[Guest Johnny Bass]

I too will concentrate on the jig and pig this year. Had some good success last year. Fallen trees or under water log jams are excellent, but make sure you have a few spare ones due to snags.

[msp]

Jig and pigs really do produce giant bass. Try to keep your casts short and close to the boat. some times its hard to feel when a fish hits the jig. also its a good idea to keep one finger on your line when you are reeling it in. This will help detect those subtle bites.Strong hooksets are very important to drive that huge hook home. It takes a while to get used to fishing with a jig but once you catch a few fish you will be hooked...........no pun intended

[bassfighter]

Carry different size Jig head. 1/4 to 1/2 oz is mostly used under 10 ft of water. Over 10 feet water you need almost 3/4 oz.

 

Used 3" or 4" White grub for daytime or sunny day, black grub for dark and murky water. Other colors such as yellow, charteuse , brown, etcc, also works. Le Baron brand is the cheapest.

 

Slow retreive is the key. How slow? slower than you think it is slow enough. I used stiff but Light rod and a 750 Shimano Symetre reel. The slow retrieve will also allow fish time to swim to it when they are at a distance.

 

Jig and Grubs are the most cheapest versatile lures you can used, the key is controlling its action. With the cheap cost of the lure, you can fish confidently on tree stump or rocky bottom. Make sure to carry a good sharpener, you will need it every so often.

 

I lost a 24-30" Musky few days ago, no chance of fighting it with a 6 lb mono. I though I caught a big walleye, felt more like a Carp, just heavy and did not want to surface, until I force drag it right close to the boat, the fish jumped right out of the air, it paniced and ran , my drag went spinning and then my line broke. Caught it using a 4" white Grub on slow retreive at 6 ft water close to weedbed.

 

I used a six lb mono and no leader even if I target walleye, once in a while I will lose some of the toothy fish, but generally I will catch more fish. I do used braided line (at times with floro leader) if I am using other kinds of more expensive lures.

 

80% of the time , I am using Jig on Grubs. It is my magic lure. Once you master the feel, you will be able to sense the fish starting to hit the tail of the grub just before the fish completely swallows it. I normally wait for the fish to pull the lure before setting it. I have to be patient and wait for few seconds until I know for sure that the fish had taken it, and will reset it again after the fish is on. Bass have big mouth and the grub/lure is very small. The slow retrieve might not necessarily set the hook deep when the fish initially takes it, therefore one needs to reset it again.

 

Pros use heavier line for they do not have time to play with the fish or the possibility of losing the big one. I want to enjoy the fight , therefore a lighter line one can feel everything.

Edited June 12, 2008 by bassfighter

[The Urban Fisherman]

Carry different size Jig head. 1/4 to 1/2 oz is mostly used under 10 ft of water. Over 10 feet water you need almost 3/4 oz.

 

Used 3" or 4" White grub for daytime or sunny day, black grub for dark and murky water. Other colors such as yellow, charteuse , brown, etcc,, also work. Le Baron brand is the cheapest.

 

Slow retreive is the key. How slow? slower than you think it is slow enough. I used Light tackle and a 750 Shimano Symetre reel. The slow retrieve will also allow fish time to swim to it when they are at a distance.

 

Jig and Grubs are the most cheapest versatile lures you can used, the key is controlling its action. With the cheap cost of the lure, you can fish confidently on tree stump or rocky bottom. Make sure to carry a good sharpener, you will need it every so often.

 

I lost a 24-30" Musky few days ago, no chance of fighting it with a 6 lb mono. I though I caught a big walleye, felt more like a Carp, just heavy and did not want to surface, until I force drag it right close to the boat, the fish jumped right out of the air, it paniced and ran , my drag went spinning and then my line broke. Caught it using a 4" white Grub on slow retreive at 6 ft water close to weedbed.

 

I used a six lb mono and no leader even if I target walleye, once in a while I will lose some of the toothy fish, but generally I will catch more fish. I do used braided line if I am using other kinds of more expensive lures.

 

80% of the time , I am using Jig on Grubs. It is my magic lure. Once you master the feel, you will be able to sense the fish starting to hit the tail of the grub just before it completely swallow it. I normally wait for the fish to pull the lure before setting it. I will be patient and wait for few seconds until I know for sure that the fish had taken it, and will reset it again after the fish is on. Bass have big mouth and the grub lure is very small. The slow retrieve might not necessarily set the hook deep when the fish initially takes it, therefore one needs to reset it again.

 

I'm pretty sure Scott's talking about Flipin' Jigs! In which case you'd be using 50lb braid, on a heavy action baitcasting rod/reel. Last year I used a medium action rod for the first half of summer and had a hard time getting the hooks into the fish....a rod with a supple tip will help you feel the bites, but you need some stiffness to it so you can jam that hook into the fish and rip it out of the weeds or trees before it get's tangled. Lock your drag down to - it ain't going anywhere.

 

cheers,

UF

[Reef Runner]

Good point UF. I've had many misses jigging because of the supple rod tip. I always wondered why Bill Dance would nearly jump ten feet in the air to set the hook, I thought it was just theatrics, maybe 50/50.lol

[misfish]

Your getting me in the mood CC.

ALL ADVICE IS EXCELLENT. TO ADD,WHEN YOUR PITC,N/FLIP,N, DONT ALWAYS RELY ON THE HIT,REALLY WATCH THE LINE. THE FISH WILL SUCK IN THE BAIT AND AT TIMESTIMES,RUN TO THE BOAT.

IT SURE IS A BLAST THOUGH,SETTING THAT HOOK.

HAVE FUN OUT THERE.

[bassjnkie]

CC what kind did you get and did you get trailers? Like above I don't rely on the bite, "I'm a line watcher, I'm a line watcher" quote Dave Mercer.

 

Daniel

OCH

[mikeh]

I'll use 1/2 to 3/4 oz on Scugog with a Phoenix chunk trailer made by Red Wing Tackle, they seem to be the most durable. I usually use a blue/black head with a blue chunk. Flip it into the heavy cover , jiggle it, most times you can feel the bite but as others have said watch the line as the fish might pick up the bait and start moving with it. Another thing is that I trim the chunks down in size as they are a little wide when you pull them out of the pack. good luck

[Raf]

TO ADD,WHEN YOUR PITC,N/FLIP,N, DONT ALWAYS RELY ON THE HIT,REALLY WATCH THE LINE. THE FISH WILL SUCK IN THE BAIT AND AT TIMESTIMES,RUN TO THE BOAT.

 

I think that was key for me, getting familiar with how the line behaves more so than feeling for a hit. Doesn't matter if I am jiggin through the ice for lakers, usng weightless plastics, jigs etc for bass. you will know you have a fish before you feel it. especially on those days when they're a bit lazy

Edited June 12, 2008 by Raf

[canadian_copper]

TX ALL.WILL PUT IT ALL TO USE AND LET YA KNOW HOW IT WORKS OUT(WITH A PIC HOPEFULLY LOL)

[singingdog]

If you want to learn jigs, you have to commit to them for a certain length of time. Think about going out several times with nothing but jigs, otherwise it is too easy to get frustrated and switch up. You can catch the same fish, in the same places, with t-rigged plastics: tubes, creatures, grubs. They are sometimes easier to fish, and easier to get a good hookset.

[Guest Johnny Bass]

If you want to learn jigs, you have to commit to them for a certain length of time. Think about going out several times with nothing but jigs, otherwise it is too easy to get frustrated and switch up. You can catch the same fish, in the same places, with t-rigged plastics: tubes, creatures, grubs. They are sometimes easier to fish, and easier to get a good hookset.

 

Good advice. Don't get discouraged, because if your not cacthin em? Your probably not using them in the right spot or the fish aren't active or the fish want a slower or faster presentation.

[Rich]

I also found with jigs (not sure if someone mentioned this) that you have to watch the line to see the bites rather than feel it in the rod. You see a little tick in the line or it seems to be moving, set the hook. Dad taught me when I started fishing jigs "there's no shame in setting the hook into nothing at all, more shame in missing a big fish because you were hesitant"