lew

Hey, now there's a thought

And I'll bet you don't get your hubs wet either, eh Bob ??

This is the 1st year I ever used the pressure treated Paul but I had an extra 6 x 6 here doing nothing and figured it'd be good. If it did any damage I'll fix up the paint and use regualr wood next year. Thanks for the heads-up.

Can't help you with the resorts Chad, but congrats on the up-coming nuptuals.

Never heard of that before Paul, but I'll find out in a couple weeks when I remove them. I'll let you know.

I've been blowing my own horn for years Steve

Happy B-Day Norm and all the best to you Bud !!

Great job on the rewire Dave, you appear to have as many gauges & switches as my boat but with only a fraction of the wires. I think the boat manufacturers could take a lesson from you. The square white disconnect plug in the bottom left of your picture is where my problem was. One of the wires coming from the switch pulled out of the plug just a tiny bit but the way it was situated I couldn't see it until I pulled it apart and turned it around.

Fantastic Rob, congrats to everyone. Having children is the best thing that can happen to folks.

Looks like they did an excellent restoration Steve. Very nice work !!

Mines jacked up in the winter months too Roger. Wooden blocks front & back And jack stands in the middle I've done it for years and figure it's a good way to take the weight off the tires, springs and whatever else. Don't know if it's really necessary or not but it can't hurt. I also undo the rear tie down straps and the bow winch strap.

Appreciate the offer Ernie, but you know you don't need a reason to come over, your always welcome here.

Well, I finally got the horn problem solved. I broke my test light awhile back so I had to get a new one and once I had the light it didn't take too long to figure things out. I pulled both leads off the switch and with the test light I found I had power to one of them so that eliminated a blown fuse. I ran a wire from the live lead up to the horn and when I touched the wire to the horn connection it sounded. As was suggested many times here it looked like a bad connection somewhere so I started checking everything again. All the wires for the dash switches come from the fuse block and go into a plastic plug. The wires from the switches go into another plug and then to 2 plugs snap together. I pulled the plug apart and everything seemed good but on the outside I could see one of the horn leads appeared to have pulled loose just a little bit. The end of the wire has a metal sleeve on it and I pushed it back in and tested it and the horn worked. I pushed the wire in tighter and wrapped it with tape to be sure it didn't come out again. From the angle I was originally working I couldn't see the back of the plug but once I pulled it apart and turned it around the problem became obvious. I hooked up the new push button switch and got it installed thru the back of the dash. And now everything is working just like it's sposed to. What would normally be a very simple job that should have only taken me 10 minutes turned out to be a bit more confusing but now I'm back in business once again and the push button is much better than the old twist knob. Thank you VERY much to everyone that offered suggestions both here and thru emails. Your a good group !!

Morning fellas and yes, those pictures are from my boat. The 2 wires on the switch are both orange & white. There's 1 orange & white on the horn plus 1 black wire. Am I correct in assuming 1 orange and white comes from the fuse block to the switch, then the other orange & white goes from the switch to the horn and then the black comes from the horn and goes to ground ?? Is the ground on the fuse block or would it be somewhere else ?? I'm just trying to eliminate tracing more wires than necessary.

Happy belated B-Day Wayne, hope it was a goodun !!

The fuses are the push-in type with the wire running thru them and from what I can see their all OK. I broke my tester awhile ago RG but we're heading into town for dinner shortly so I'm gonna pick up another one. That's the fuse panel just to the left of center and up a bit. Paul, I'm gonna pull every fuse again tomorrow and take another very close look at them, but I honestly don't think I did anything to blow one. All the lights in the boat work fine as do the gas guages and the VHF radio. This is the maze of wires I'm sorting thru and it's FAR more confusing that what it appears here. The 2 orange & white wires at the horn switch And this is the horn with one orange & white wire on one terminal and a black on the other terminal. I'm gonna take a break from this now & take another shot at it tomorrow morning when my eyes stop being crossed from tracing wires all day. Appreciate everyones help on this.

No I didn't Dan as the dash is fiberglass with no metal at all near the switch and the old switch itself is a plastic housing but that was one of my 1st thoughts this morning. The new switch is metal but the neck that comes thru the dash is bigger than the old one so I'll need to ream the hole out to make it fit and I don't want to do that until I figure out the problem.

Sorry Trouty, we were both posting at the same time. The boats only 3 years old and the wires don't seem to be the least bit brittle, but that was a good point.

Ernie, there's no actual diagram for the fuse panel but everything is clearly marked on the fuse block including the fuse for the horn. I've checked them all earlier incase the relay is seperate but I'm gonna check them again. Roy, the key doesn't need to be on but there's a seperate master switch on the dash but I had it in the correct position. And Rob, yes I've tried with both the new & old switches. It's no wonder auto mechanics are so well paid

I hooked a battery directly to the horn and it works fine. I've been under the dash for an hour checking connections and they all seem to be tight and I've re-checked the fuses and everything appears good. This is really bizarre because as I said above the only thing I did was take the wires off the back of the old switch and put them on the back of the new switch. The entire job only took a couple minutes.

All good suggestions guys and thanks, but all connections are clean and tight and I've already tried all your ideas. Actually I never even came close to any of the connections other than the ones right at the switch. I tried your suggestion too Spiel and connected the 2 wires to each other but still nada. If I didn't know better I'd think somehow I blew a fuse but it checks out OK and I've already tried different fuses there. Oh well, I spose if anyone gets in my way this summer I'll just have to scream at them or blow my whistle Thanks anyhoo boyz.

The horn button for my boat is a knob that you twist to the right to activate, which is something I don't like. I decided to change it to a push button The original has the clips that push onto the back of the switch The new push button has the screws that you wrap the wires around and tighten down Before I did anything this morning I tested the horn and it worked fine. I then cut the clips from the original switch, and installed the wires on the screws on the new switch and the horn wouldn't work. I then switched the wires around and it still wouldn't work. I then put new clips on the wires and put them back on the original switch and now that doesn't work either. The power switch is on and the fuse is fine, infact I even tried a new fuse and still nothing. If it matters, both wires are orange & white. Any thoughts ??

Bottom line is, no matter how many years we've been backing up trailers, or how good we are at it, we were ALL novices at one time and we ALL had to learn. If your at a boat ramp and see someone struggling to back up his trailer and they seem confused by the process, maybe go over and offer them some advice or a helping hand. I've done it more than a few times and they all seemed to appreciate the assist.

My Skeeter came equipped with seats made by Springfield Marine and are known as Air-Adjustable. They basically ride on a cushion of air and are very comfortable in rough water and take out all the harsh bangs associated with pounding the waves. Very nice in rough water when you feel the seat more or less floating under you. They can be adjusted up and down as much as 6" and also have sliders built into the mount so the seats can move front to back about 6" also.

I've got a camera in the tailgate of my truck that makes it darned near impossible not to hit the hitch perfectly every time. Removes all un-necessary thinking