Driveway paving and steps

[John Bacon]

I am planning to get my driveway paved and have some steps built. I live in Scarborough.

 

If anybody has any recommendations about who I should consider (or, who I should avoid), I would appreciate hearing them.

 

I am not yet set on material; I am open asphalt, inter-lock, poured concrete, etc. for the drive way. I am leaning toward concrete for the steps but I would consider other options.

 

Thanks in advance for any recommendations.

Edited May 3, 2014 by JohnBacon

[Tim Mills]

We just widened our s from single to double. It's 49ft long. THe quotes ranged from 2500 to 4600 for asphalt. Ended up paying $3000. Lot s of room for the boat and cars now should have done it sooner

[spooner_jr]

Just be careful; in Toronto you need a paving permit and there are restrictions on the width you are allowed. Two years ago it was around $125.

[pics]

A paving permit? Wow... probably because of the number of people who paved their front lawns for parking..

[John Bacon]

A paving permit? Wow... probably because of the number of people who paved their front lawns for parking..

 

Yes, that and the anti-car attitude from many councilors and the former mayor.

[iFish4real]

I'd say concrete is the most durable, I'm doing mine double in June, best quote I got just over $6k, tax in.

[Twocoda]

just throwing this out there as an idea...if you go concrete ...

 

https://www.facebook.com/DaveNicholsonPhotography/media_set?set=a.10150911940690220.758818.894675219&type=3

[ch312]

I've worked in the concrete business for over 10 years and for what you're looking to have done a very popular choice is concrete steps and/or walkway with matching borders and the driveway being paved with asphalt. Granite seamless stamps with a light colored concrete that matches the exterior cladding of your house used with a dark charcoal release goes VERY well when bordering asphalt with concrete and ties everything together quite nicely.

 

Stamped concrete does require annual maintenance (wash and seal) for longevity, but it's definitely worth it. Plain concrete with a broom or half moon finish are best in terms of durability, but lack the visual appeal of stamped and colored concrete.

 

 

Interlock and asphalt almost always form ruts after 10+ years...

[Headhunter]

Hi John,

 

As I understand it, you do not need a permit to replace a driveway, just for a new one. Also, here in Scarborough, your driveway's width must not exceed the width of you garage.

As far as recommending someone, well, I was more than displeased with the folks who did mine, so I won't recommend them to you.

HH

[outllaw]

to many rules. here in Windsor no permit and taxes on asphalt wont raise taxes. I have 36by 20 front. back is 40 by 25ft. . I hate sno shovelling lol.

[mistaredone]

I'm going the stamped concrete route this fall. The guy I'm using has done driveways for people I know and the work has held up to the test of time. He's a little cheaper than other quotes I've had. The only concern I have with stamped concrete for my driveway, steps and porch is for the finish I want it gets slippery when wet. If you want his info pm me

[ch312]

Hi John,

 

As I understand it, you do not need a permit to replace a driveway, just for a new one. Also, here in Scarborough, your driveway's width must not exceed the width of you garage.

As far as recommending someone, well, I was more than displeased with the folks who did mine, so I won't recommend them to you.

HH

 

Around here you only need a permit when pouring concrete on the boulevard (the small piece between the sidewalk and street curb. I've never asked why, but I assume it has something to do with utilities and such.

[ch312]

I'm going the stamped concrete route this fall. The guy I'm using has done driveways for people I know and the work has held up to the test of time. He's a little cheaper than other quotes I've had. The only concern I have with stamped concrete for my driveway, steps and porch is for the finish I want it gets slippery when wet. If you want his info pm me

 

The contractor didn't use anti slip sealer. Even high gloss anti slip sealer is not slippery when wet.

 

You can apply some anti slip yourself after washing the driveway and allowing it to dry completely. If it's a relatively smooth driveway you can use a paint roller, but if it's a pattern with distinct lines (such as the ashlar slate pattern) you're far better off using a sprayer to ensure the sealer reaches the bottom of deep crevasses.

 

Be VERY careful when the low estimates start rolling in. This often means the contractor is taking shortcuts that can and will compromise the slab or surface eventually.

 

Is the estimate from contractor "A" much cheaper than contractor "B" because he:

 

-doesn't excavate enough material and replace it with a proper base?

-fails to install adequate wire mesh and/or rebar?

-chooses a lower strength concrete and pours too thin?

-doesn't bother with small important thing's like expansion joint, joint sealing against the house, or running downspouts under sidewalks?

-charges extra for replacing soil and sod that needed to be removed to place forms?

 

 

 

How many years after being poured is considered "the work has held up to the test of time"?

[mistaredone]

Just to be clear I haven't had my driveway done yet. My concern was based on reviews I had read on the web

 

 

The contractor didn't use anti slip sealer. Even high gloss anti slip sealer is not slippery when wet.

 

You can apply some anti slip yourself after washing the driveway and allowing it to dry completely. If it's a relatively smooth driveway you can use a paint roller, but if it's a pattern with distinct lines (such as the ashlar slate pattern) you're far better off using a sprayer to ensure the sealer reaches the bottom of deep crevasses.

 

Be VERY careful when the low estimates start rolling in. This often means the contractor is taking shortcuts that can and will compromise the slab or surface eventually.

 

Is the estimate from contractor "A" much cheaper than contractor "B" because he:

 

-doesn't excavate enough material and replace it with a proper base?

-fails to install adequate wire mesh and/or rebar?

-chooses a lower strength concrete and pours too thin?

-doesn't bother with small important thing's like expansion joint, joint sealing against the house, or running downspouts under sidewalks?

-charges extra for replacing soil and sod that needed to be removed to place forms?

 

 

 

How many years after being poured is considered "the work has held up to the test of time"?

[John Bacon]

Thanks for the replies. Some good information.

[ch312]

Just to be clear I haven't had my driveway done yet. My concern was based on reviews I had read on the web

 

 

I just re-read your post and can't see how I missed that part

 

Anyways, you need to wait 7-8 years at least and then go back and look at the contractors work to see if it will in fact stand up to the test of time. You have no idea how many hacks there are out there who claim to do quality work, yet their two year old work is heaving, discoloring, spalling (chips popping off the surface), or cracking like crazy.