skinny Posted April 2, 2014 Report Posted April 2, 2014 so i'm two foot deep into a transom repair in a fibreglass boat looking for pointers and someone with experience to bounce stuff of of
cheaptackle Posted April 2, 2014 Report Posted April 2, 2014 Try some of the posts on this site : http://forums.iboats.com/forum.php Found lots of great ideas, tips, material suggestions etc on there! Michael
skinny Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Posted April 2, 2014 I will try to get some posted Curently just working from my phone
2 tone z71 Posted April 2, 2014 Report Posted April 2, 2014 are you putting the I/O back in or closing it up and adding a bracket...leave the outter skin and peel away the inside once you get to that point ill keep going
skinny Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Posted April 2, 2014 i will be putting the i/o back in I'm just starting to strip now I'm working in my drive so weather causes issues
sleded Posted April 2, 2014 Report Posted April 2, 2014 (edited) hopefully you get her fixed sirrrrrr Edited April 2, 2014 by sleded
skinny Posted April 5, 2014 Author Report Posted April 5, 2014 so got a little time on Thursday to work on the boat I got the first layer off. really surprised at how the factory did this. I took my skill saw and set blade depth just shallow of first layer and cut grooves all over with thought I was going to be taking it out in small chunks. well I got in between the layers with pry bar and th layer started to pop and separate. I got my hands in and pulled and removed it in almost full piece. turns out they glued it and stapled it. the next layer isn't even a complete one piece it has a bunch of pieces cut to fit tight to each other . will have to be careful now as if i pry i can see the outer fibreglass move a little
2 tone z71 Posted April 5, 2014 Report Posted April 5, 2014 thats ok ..your making good progress ..get the inner skin cleaned up down to the bare glass ..make your template outta cardboard then transfer it over to the first new piece of plywood
skinny Posted April 5, 2014 Author Report Posted April 5, 2014 ok last layer this is the one bonded to the glass going to need to be careful and looks like most will be hammer and chisel going to try and cut line tru with skill saw but not sure its going to work as my saw is bulky so alot of the area wont get relief cuts any suggestions its 1/2 plywood then glass
DRIFTER_016 Posted April 5, 2014 Report Posted April 5, 2014 ok last layer this is the one bonded to the glass going to need to be careful and looks like most will be hammer and chisel going to try and cut line tru with skill saw but not sure its going to work as my saw is bulky so alot of the area wont get relief cuts any suggestions its 1/2 plywood then glass Sounds like a good reason to add to the tool count!!! http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rockwell-versacut-4a-3-3-8-in-mini-circular-saw-0548361p.html#.U0BxsvldUn4
2 tone z71 Posted April 7, 2014 Report Posted April 7, 2014 I usually use flat bars or chisels at that point ...once you get in behind the ply it is time consuming but comes off fairly easy
skinny Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Posted April 8, 2014 well i'm to grinding most of transom but I have found some loose glass and not sure what to do there also the piece of wood that was glued to fibreglass also extended down past what I want to call 2 bunks I'm hoping to dig the wood out of this slot then build a couple of pieces to fill in that area to the top of the bunks then have transom sit on these does that make sense rather than tear up the bunks (stringer to side of boat and I think contain foam
aplumma Posted April 9, 2014 Report Posted April 9, 2014 You got to keep going till you get to dry solid wood. The rotted stringer/wood are what let the glass flex and water in. The water wicks up into the new wood and you are back to square one again. I had to go deeper than I wanted restoring a 1985 Ranger but the end result was worth it. Art
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