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Laker jigging


davey buoy

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I do a lot of laker jigging and actually just got back from a trip . What I use is a braid main line and a 12lb fluro leader about 4ft long . I attach the leader to the main line with a good quality swivel to reduce any line twist . I tie the leader direct to the jig (less clutter on jig the better) . I wouldn't use any kind of mono , too much stretch . Even with this setup you still have to check your leader for cuts/nicks and re-tie, I lost a couple lake trout boatside this past weekend from getting lazy and not checking ! I use a baitcaster for this type of fishing , a lot better than a spinning outfit .

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All good tips. I like to minimize terminal tackle as much as possible. No snap swivels casting or jigging, long lining a swivel is a must to reduce line twist, the smaller the better so a treble can't get hung up in the snap.

 

Do not cheap out on terminal tackle, I've seen many a trophy lost at the boat or hole when the snap pulled straight out. And swivels that don't swivel after a short time. Buy brand name tackle and the black snaps that lock over top and under the horizontal wire, not under a thin metal sleeve. They are crappola.

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I have the micro swivels,which we'll use for the fluro connection. Some more discussion is needed on the snap swivel(which I believe to be ok)or tie directly to the bad boyz for instance.The snap swivel makes it so easy to change it up to a jig head or whatever.

Edited by davey buoy
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I have never used a snap swivel on a jig head. These must be very heavy jigs, I have never fished for lakers. The snap will change the action of the jig falling, especially a tube. I've snorkeled under water to watch. The tube doesn't spin as well on the fall. A jig is supposed to kick up the bottom when it hits, imitating a crab or foraging critter, it doesn't do that with a swivel attached as well. Also it will gather weeds where a smooth, bare jig head won't as easily. Imagine jigging for 20 minutes to bring it up and it has weeds on it..

 

You have spent thousands on boats and equipment, accommodation and all that goes with it, and you want to put on a swivel because it's easy. Where are you going?take the time and tie on a jig man. Or buy the screw head jigs from Lindy. Have you ever seen a jig with a snap on it when those guys do a show?

 

How much time is wasted jigging with weeds on? We spend good money on tackle to imitate bait fish, I like to keep it as natural as possible.

 

My opinion only.

Edited by Old Ironmaker
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Ya , stay away from the snaps . As others have said lake trout are not picky when aggressive but for the amount of time it takes to tie on a jig it's just not worth it . As for the trailers , I have had very good luck with the Gulp minnows but i'm sure a live minnow would work well too .I have a couple reports a month or so ago showing my setups ! Good luck and remember they love to chase so keep that jig moving in the "whole" water column .

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Ya , stay away from the snaps . As others have said lake trout are not picky when aggressive but for the amount of time it takes to tie on a jig it's just not worth it . As for the trailers , I have had very good luck with the Gulp minnows but i'm sure a live minnow would work well too .I have a couple reports a month or so ago showing my setups ! Good luck and remember they love to chase so keep that jig moving in the "whole" water column .

Ok,so if the finder finds fish in 60' for example.First of all it could be herring?,right?How would you know the difference?,or would you just fish that area and take a chance?.Saying the lake was 150' for example.Thanks for the info!

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Ok,so if the finder finds fish in 60' for example.First of all it could be herring?,right?How would you know the difference?,or would you just fish that area and take a chance?.Saying the lake was 150' for example.Thanks for the info!

Jig at the depth the fish is, catch one and bring it up, then you will be able to see what it is. Sorry I'm being an ass.

 

I do have a question for you deep water jigging folks, do you use line counter reels this deep. How can you tell you are in the strike zone when fish suspended if you don't have a good HD sounder?

 

I want to start jigging for suspended Walleye on Erie, something I never heard anyone try with success here.

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Jig at the depth the fish is, catch one and bring it up, then you will be able to see what it is. Sorry I'm being an ass.

 

I do have a question for you deep water jigging folks, do you use line counter reels this deep. How can you tell you are in the strike zone when fish suspended if you don't have a good HD sounder?

 

I want to start jigging for suspended Walleye on Erie, something I never heard anyone try with success here.

Good point,if I see the fish at a certain depth,without a line counter how will I know where I am?.Trial and error maybe ?lol.When it free spools to the bottom,how would you know?.

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OP, you're making this a lot more complicated then it really is.. Unless it's dead calm (or you're anchored like Terry mentioned), marking your bait like you would through the ice can be a challenge. What you need to do is stay intouch with the bottom and cover some water. I'd worry more about marking fish, then my bait.. Find the fish, pound the bottom, you'll get bit.

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I use a main line suited to the weight of the jig head tied to a small (quality) barrel swivel and then a lead tied to the barrel and jig.(no snaps)

The main line can range from 6 -20 pound depending on the jig/depth/current and drift? And the lead will vary depending on the target fish?

 

I have several leads tied up in advance usually about 6-8 ft long this lets me change up quick and only tie one knot.

 

As for using the fish finder to locate your jig? 90-150ft?

I locate fish first than hit bottom and work my way up.(touchy feely kind of thing)

 

Don.

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OP, you're making this a lot more complicated then it really is.. Unless it's dead calm (or you're anchored like Terry mentioned), marking your bait like you would through the ice can be a challenge. What you need to do is stay intouch with the bottom and cover some water. I'd worry more about marking fish, then my bait.. Find the fish, pound the bottom, you'll get bit.

Not rocket science Bill,but I feel the more I can learn,hopefully better returns :) .It's just new to me.

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I use a main line suited to the weight of the jig head tied to a small (quality) barrel swivel and then a lead tied to the barrel and jig.(no snaps)

The main line can range from 6 -20 pound depending on the jig/depth/current and drift? And the lead will vary depending on the target fish?

 

I have several leads tied up in advance usually about 6-8 ft long this lets me change up quick and only tie one knot.

 

As for using the fish finder to locate your jig? 90-150ft?

I locate fish first than hit bottom and work my way up.(touchy feely kind of thing)

 

Don.

Thanks Don,appreciate your help.!

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Thanks to all that helped with my in depth questions lol.It paid off well.One laker 13lbs,another 7lbs,whitefish 6lb,and lost many others on lake X.A couple more pictures to come later.These fish were kept for table fare.

1002176_1405494073005941_881257464_n_zpsca0ab990.jpg

1010537_1405495609672454_128920208_n_zps3450c43c.jpg

Edited by davey buoy
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Hey Davey

 

A very 'Nice' Day!!!

 

Is that an upgrade to Team #4 Whitefish?

 

Rick

It was 6lbs,and no tape measure..Even forgot my camera in the truck.These were taken from a friends phone.Would 6lbs do it?.This will not be the last trip out there.In all honesty,never occured to me We would have a day like that.Won't happen again for sure.

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