Cranking Battery - FAST

[grimsbylander]

Maybe I can get some help...I need to replace the cranking battery on my boat and I have to do it by Friday night. I just need to know what makes are recommended and where to buy. It needs to crank a 200hp and run an HDS8, HDS7, structure scan and livewell pumps. I've been told I should be looking at a group 29 battery with minimum 1000 CCA and 180 minute reserve.

 

I'm hoping to keep it about $200 and anywhere from west end of Toronto to Fort Erie is OK.

 

Hurry! Tournament Saturday and I'm starting to sweat! LOL

 

Thanks!!

[Roy]

As my main battery I got this one a few years ago and have never looked back. It's a Trans Canada

DC31-280 BIG RED DEEP CYCLE BATTERY GR DC31 140AH 1000MCA 280RC

Model # DC31-280

 

Price was $180 + tax.

[grimsbylander]

Thanks Roy.

 

You run a deep cycle as cranking battery? What size motor?

 

As my main battery I got this one a few years ago and have never looked back. It's a Trans Canada

DC31-280 BIG RED DEEP CYCLE BATTERY GR DC31 140AH 1000MCA 280RC

Model # DC31-280

 

Price was $180 + tax.

[NAW]

I was cranking an old Evenrude 85 with my deep cycle the other weekend. Turned it over no problem at all.

 

Not sure if it's recommended though..

[DRIFTER_016]

I just run the Nautilus 1000CCA group 24 battery from CT to run my 115 and depth finders, bilge pumps, stereo and VHF.

The last one lasted 5 years and cost me $120

[Roy]

Thanks Roy.

 

You run a deep cycle as cranking battery? What size motor?

It says deep cycle but that's not a true deep cycle if you look at the specs.. I have a 60hp 4 stroke but also 2x 8,000w chartplotters/sonars and a bunch of other stuff.

[Muskieman]

if it's strictly for cranking , go ahead and use a regular automotive battery.. if you have any electronics hooked up to it disregard the automotive cranker, get a DP battery.. DUAL PURPOSE , will run electronics all day and still have a reserve of 600 or more CCAs to start your outboard with confidence ... Kirkland at Costco is a VERY good bang for the buck.

[Old Ironmaker]

90% of all batteries are made by Johnson controls and marketed by many, Kirkland and Nautilus for example. I don't like dual purpose and my guy at the marina agrees. For your budget you will get a great battery and not worry about it. The difference in a $89.99 and $199.99 is the number of times it is able to take a full charge from dead as one of the main cost differences.

 

There are many threads here with much information to read for buying new batteries, the folks here sure helped me this spring, I know more about batteries now. A marine battery is specific, a general auto battery works but there are differences. Do a search on this site.

 

Something I saves from the Globe and mail

 

The major difference is the ability of each type to discharge. You see, batteries only store energy, they do not create it. They simply accept energy (amperage pushed by a voltage), from whatever device has been connected to it to supply this energy (the charging system or an external battery charger).

A car battery is primarily designed to provide a large amount of current to get an engine started, and that's pretty much it. Once started, the battery just sits there being fed by the charging system to supply it with the energy that was lost during the starting (cranking) process. Dave, this is why they are called cranking batteries or engine start batteries. They can pump out large amounts of energy or current or amperes very quickly - but only for a short time. They supply little if any energy once the engine is running.

On the other hand, a Marine battery is designed for a couple of purposes - some call it a hybrid - a cross between a cranking and a "house" battery.

House batteries are used extensively in recreational vehicles of all types and are not expected to supply large amounts of cranking energy. However, they are capable of supplying energy (or discharging) over very long periods of time.

Not only are marine batteries expected to crank over an engine, they are also required to supply energy for lighting, pumps, sound systems and anything else that might be essential for comfort or safety while out on the water. As might be expected, these batteries can supply a combination of large amounts of cranking energy followed by a continuous supply of energy to keep accessories running.

The marine battery is capable of doing this through different construction techniques. As car and marine batteries are both categorized as "flood-acid batteries", that is, the internal components are immersed in a solution of sulphuric acid and water called electrolyte, the easiest and cheapest parts to modify are the sets of energy storing plates that are immersed in the electrolyte.

Marine battery plates are thicker than conventional batteries. This is one of the contributing factors to the increased cost of a marine battery. But hey, if you really want to spend more, Dave, get the top-of-the-line batteries and shock-proof the plates by imbedding them in epoxy.

Anyone that has spent time in rough water will appreciate shock resistance in a boat.

Other differences show up on the labels that are glued to batteries.

Cranking batteries are rated for the following:

• Amp hours (Ah) or 20-hour rate is a measure of current that drains the battery capacity in 20 hours to a voltage point of 10.5 volts at 80F.
• Cold Cranking Amps (CCA), or Cold Cranking Power (CCP) is the maximum discharge current in amps that a new, fully charged 12 volt battery at 0F can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain a voltage of 7.2 volts.
• Reserve Capacity (RC), or Peak Capacity (PC) is a measure of time to discharge a fully charged battery at 25 amperes, at 80F down to an end voltage of 10.5V. (Almost similar to Ah rating.)

Marine Batteries are rated for:

• Marine Cranking Amps (MCA), which is the same test procedure as Cold Craning Amps except that the test temperature is 32F. (This test is done warmer as a car is expected to operate in more severe operating temperatures). Batteries lose efficiencies the colder they get. Another way to look at it is who in their right mind is going to out in a boat in subzero temps anyway?
• Previously mentioned ratings other than CCA. This part can be a little confusing as there are often different combinations of the ratings depending on the manufacturer.

But, this is one case where Go Big or Go Home really works. The larger the numbers for battery ratings, the more reliable it will be as long as the right battery is pressed into the right service.

Oh, a parting thought. Contrary to popular belief, batteries will NOT discharge through a concrete floor. Putting a battery on a piece of wood simply insulates the bottom of the battery from the cold.

Edited June 14, 2013 by Old Ironmaker

[hirk]

look at the 24xhd interstate marine cranking. if you have a dfi you need the 1000ca's for it alone due to the compressor.

[Muskieman]

Old Iron , what that describes is a Dual Purpose "DP" battery.

[danc]

I bought my Lund Pro Sport new in 2001. I haven't touched the battery but it's still working fine. Never topped it up. Never had it on a charger. I run some electronics and a Sirius blaster on it 24/7. It's 12 years old now and still working like new . Am I doing something wrong?

[wormdunker]

^{Old iron maker}

^{What do u mean by embedding the plates in epoxy?}

^Thanx

[Old Ironmaker]

I would like to know too. I copy and pasted the article from the Globe and Mail.

^{Old iron maker}

^{What do u mean by embedding the plates in epoxy?}

^Thanx