Cottage Pump Help NF

[Meely]

Hello Gang,

 

As of late I have been having an issue with the water pump at the cottage.

Most of the times it works normally and then there are times when we turn on a tap and get no water at all.

I then walk over to the pump-house, flick the switch which kills the power to the pump then flick the switch back on again. After this.......away she goes.

It is odd in that it does not do this all the time and it is very unpredictable.

 

Does anyone have any ideas as to what it may be? Switch?

 

Also, does anyone know of anyone who may do house calls in the Bobcaygeon area?

(It is hardwired in for now and it would be a bugger to have to yank it all out.....)

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Meely

[davey buoy]

Does the switch have a reset on it when you turn it off and on?,If so your pump could be working to hard because of pump or motor problems.Intermittant problems can be hard to solve.

[Meely]

No reset that I know of.......

Once I flick the power back on....she fires right back up to the set pressure point, turns off and holds pressure like normal.

Meely

[Sinker]

Sounds like the contacts are worn out on your pressure switch, Meely. You should be able to get a new switch at most hardware stores, and install it yourself. Shouldn't take you more than an hour.

 

You might even get away with just cleaning the contacts off.

 

S.

[bigbuck]

Could be the pressure switch isn't working correctly. Check the contacts in it for corrosion.....with the power off of course.

[Ice Fishing Ham]

The problem might be in the pump switch you are turning off and on. The contacts in it might be burnt and opening and closing the switch re-seats them and there good for awhile.

 

To check this, next time it happens rather then cycle the pump switch turn the circuit breaker for the pump off and on. If the pump does not start by doing this go and cycle the pump switch, if the pump starts its a good chance its this switch. Hope this helps. One more thing if it is this switch replace it with one that is designed for motors.

[davey buoy]

The problem might be in the pump switch you are turning off and on. The contacts in it might be burnt and opening and closing the switch re-seats them and there good for awhile.

 

To check this, next time it happens rather then cycle the pump switch turn the circuit breaker for the pump off and on. If the pump does not start by doing this go and cycle the pump switch, if the pump starts its a good chance its this switch. Hope this helps. One more thing if it is this switch replace it with one that is designed for motors.

My thoughts exactly.

[aplumma]

Replace the squareD switch. It is the gray unit that the wire run into two from power and two to the pump. Look inside of the cover to see if it is 20/40 or a 30/60 switch (cut in cut out pressure). Look carefully at the way it is wired before you take it apart if you wire it wrong you will ruin the new switch instantly and blow the breaker. I also advise you to replace the 3/8th X 6" brass tube it is usually full of debris/scale and will effect the accuracy of the pump pressure.

 

 

 

Art

[Chappee]

You never did say if it was a jet pump or a submersible, i'm asuming it

is a jet pump since it is at your cottage. You will only find a 6"x3/8 brass nipple on a submersible set up, on a jet pump set up you will

find a 1/8 tube that runs from the pressure swich to the head of the pump checkit to see if it is plugged or the fitting going into the head of the pump. Another thing to do is when it happens next time carefully take the grey cover off the pressure switch when the power is on and see if the points are open or closed. If the points are closed and your pump is not running there could be a problem with that switch. Trouble shooting

a pump is hard to do with out a multi meter.

[aplumma]

You never did say if it was a jet pump or a submersible, i'm asuming it

is a jet pump since it is at your cottage. You will only find a 6"x3/8 brass nipple on a submersible set up, on a jet pump set up you will

find a 1/8 tube that runs from the pressure swich to the head of the pump checkit to see if it is plugged or the fitting going into the head of the pump. Another thing to do is when it happens next time carefully take the grey cover off the pressure switch when the power is on and see if the points are open or closed. If the points are closed and your pump is not running there could be a problem with that switch. Trouble shooting

a pump is hard to do with out a multi meter.

You are correct Chappee thanks for the info. Shallow well pumps are very rare in my neck of the woods I haven't seen one in years and forgot to consider them in this answer.

Art

[Fisherman]

You are correct Chappee thanks for the info. Shallow well pumps are very rare in my neck of the woods I haven't seen one in years and forgot to consider them in this answer.

Art

Well that's some great info that I'll definitely store away. I've got a shallow sandpoint for lawn watering, so far so good.

[Chappee]

Your a lucky man aplumma.... there is far to many of these jet pumps in my area. trouble shooting a deep well

set up on a jet pump with a injector down the well can be a treat. A submersible pump is bar far a better system.

 

You are correct Chappee thanks for the info. Shallow well pumps are very rare in my neck of the woods I haven't seen one in years and forgot to consider them in this answer.

Art

[Meely]

Sorry, perhaps I could have been a bit more precise ......

 

When I say switch, I have power running from a mini panel in my shed to a switch (like a light switch) that then runs to the pump.

I use this light switch to turn the power off to the pump when I leave and on again when I go back up.

I dont actually hit any switch on the pump (it is a jet pump) itself........

 

So, when the pump acts up or does not start, I turn the power off (from the light switch) then immediately flick it back on......at this point the pump fires up again and things are back to normal.

 

Thanks for all your responses.....

 

Meely

[Sinker]

I still say swap out or clean up the pressure switch.

 

I assume this pumps water from the lake, and hasn't run much/ all winter?

 

Contacts are probably bunged up. A cleaning will probably do it, but they're cheap to replace, and easy to do. Most likely a 20-40psi switch, you can find them just about anywhere.

 

If you need anymore help with it, pm me and I'll send u my number, or get it from tony.

 

S.

[Meely]

Thanks Sinker.

You are correct in that the pump does draw from the lake.

I also do remove it in the fall and store it at home in my basement all winter, then set it all up again in the spring.

I will have a look at the switch (and take some pics) this weekend if I head up there.

 

Meely

[Old Ironmaker]

Change the pressure switch. Get a preset 30 psi on 60 psi off.

[aplumma]

Sorry, perhaps I could have been a bit more precise ......

 

When I say switch, I have power running from a mini panel in my shed to a switch (like a light switch) that then runs to the pump.

I use this light switch to turn the power off to the pump when I leave and on again when I go back up.

I dont actually hit any switch on the pump (it is a jet pump) itself........

 

So, when the pump acts up or does not start, I turn the power off (from the light switch) then immediately flick it back on......at this point the pump fires up again and things are back to normal.

 

Thanks for all your responses.....

 

Meely

You have added a new element to this saga and that is unless the switch is a heavy duty light switch rated for 15 amps it could also be the issue. I would turn off the circuit breaker and remove the switch. Replace the switch with a heavy duty switch rated for the amp # on the fuse box for the pump. If it has a 15 on it it is a 15 amp fuse 20 etc. If after you do this it cuts out do not touch anything. Remove the cover off of the grey switch that is on the pump look to see if the contacts are open or appear closed. Look at the gauge if it still works and see if what the pressure reads. If the contacts are closed and there is less than 20 lbs of pressure tap the contacts with a non conductive item. If the pump comes on then replace the switch and replace or clear out the 1/8 tube. If it does not come on then test for voltage at the switch with a multi meter. If you are not sure of how to do this stop and have someone who is come out and test for you.

 

 

Art

[Chappee]

Good advice Art

[steelhedrmatt]

Check to see if your pressure tank is "drowned" This happened last year to us at the cottage. changed the switch, changed the breaker, ended up being the pressure tank. If you think it could be drowned, open the bottom valve and put a LITTLE air to it.

[Sinker]

Your pressure tank shouldn't have anything to do with it. You have a contact problem, either in your switch, or the pressure switch.

 

To check the pressure tank, turn off pump, run water until it stops flowing, then check pressuure in tank. It should be 2lbs less than your on pressure. (18 or 28lbs, depending on which pressure switch you have)

 

A drowned tank is common, but usually only causes reduced pressure to the system, not issues with the pump cycling on/off.

 

I'd bet my pay check its the pressure switch. Have you ever replaced it?

 

S.

[Meely]

Sorry.......

I didn't mean for this to turn into a "Saga"......

 

Sinker, havent changed it in 15 years that I have had the place and who knows how long the old owners had

it goin.......

 

I may as well just go and get a whole new switch and give her a try.....if it works .....Great! If not.....

I have a feeling sooner or later I will need it anyways.....lol

 

Thanks to all......

 

Meely

 

[Old Ironmaker]

While you're at it ask for a 30/60 that is set to shut the pump off after a certain period of time. That ensures you don't have a flood if you have a break in a line or leave the tap running and end up with a burned out pump that runs dry. I know you shut it off when you leave but a lot can go wrong when you aren't in the cottage to hear the pump running too long. I had a Swagelok fitting separate once in the middle of the summer and the pump shut down before we had a disaster in stead of a wet floor.

 

The last one I bought was an entire 30 bucks taxes included from Home Hardware.

 

If you are anything like me I had no idea how much a pressure switch costs when I had my first pump, heck I never knew there was such a thing, turn on the tap and water comes out. If the guy asked for $139.99 I wouldn't have had a clue when I bought my first foot valve.

[irishfield]

While you're at it ask for a 30/60 that is set to shut the pump off after a certain period of time. That ensures you don't have a flood if you have a break in a line

DANG, I'd never fill my pool with one of those... just finished putting about 10,000 gallons in it since yesterday, at 6pm, after removing the cover. Flow at a rate to turn on pump.. keep some pressure on it and never shut off. Yard hydrants are great.

 

As for the run, no run issue, I'm betting a file and some contact cleaner can fix it PDQ. Many of those switches.. the contacts are also replaceable vs doing any plumbing or wiring work.

[Old Ironmaker]

Irish,

It doesn't work like that. It shuts down if it hasn't reached pressure setting. Filling your pool the pump will cycle to pressure max then to pressure min. If the pump runs continuously without hitting the off setting it will shut down. Get one.

[irishfield]

Exactly.. if you ever water your yard or garden from a well you don't want the pump kicking on and off.. on and off.. you set it for a flow that keeps the pump running at a mid level continous pressure. The last thing you want is your pump kicking on and off pumping 10,000 gallons of water in a day. You want it to run continuous and what you are suggesting won't work for anyone watering their lawn or filling a pool in a matter that minimizes pressure switch cycles and pump damage.

Edited May 11, 2013 by irishfield