Coyote Gun Restoration - Warning - Graphic Images**

[NAW]

UPDATE: FINISHED PICS ADDED AT END OF THREAD.

I have been on the market for a good coyote gun for the local dogs. But with a 8 week old boy at home, the budget is on lock down.

My neighbor used to shoot a lot. Re-loaded all his rounds. He worked in a lab with a Bisbee Marksman. He had his Remington 722 .222 Rem. dialed in at 200 yards. Claims you could drive nails with it.

He told me I can use it all i want if I fix it up. Hasn't been fired in 15 years. BUT, it comes with all the re-loading equipment and dies for .222 Rem!

Specs:
Remington Model 722
Chambered for .222 Rem.
Approx 1950 - 1960


This is going to be my Coyote gun. Here's some shots from when he gave it to me a few weeks back. It was sitting in a steel locker in the moist cold area.












Here is about 5 hours in to the restoration. I am almost ready to give the wood a coating. But I don't know what to use. It can't be reflective, or glossy, but needs to be a durable wood finish.


















I am really impressed with the quality of the wood that I found. The old gloss coat was in rough shape. But I bushed and scraped stripper for a few hours.

The barrel was rusted on the outside, to that took a pile of polishing, around 2 hours.

I still have to give is a thorough cleaning and oiling on the inside. Possibly re-blue the barrel, and give the wood a coating.

I'll post up more pics of the fishing product if anyone wants to see it.

Edited March 10, 2013 by N.A.W

[dave524]

Fine old rifle, give the stock a few coats of Birchwood Casey "TruOil". Hope the bore is still good, I'd give it a cleaning with J-B bore cleaning compound.

[NAW]

Fine old rifle, give the stock a few coats of Birchwood Casey "TruOil". Hope the bore is still good, I'd give it a cleaning with J-B bore cleaning compound.

 

The bore is in good shape. Thanks for the tip!

 

Do you have to apply the truoil every few years? I am assuming it will really bring the natural grain finish out? Water resistant as well?

Edited November 5, 2012 by N.A.W

[glen]

52gr hpbt. 250y np.

[dave524]

The bore is in good shape. Thanks for the tip!

 

Do you have to apply the truoil every few years? I am assuming it will really bring the natural grain finish out? Water resistant as well?

 

Don't put it on too heavy , multiple light coats is better. Yes a coat every year or so after the intial coats would be good.

 

It is water resistant. Even though it says truoil I believe it is a plastic with oil like properties.

 

Your old 222 has a slower twist rifling than is common today, probably best with bullets in the 40 to 50 grain tops range, if you are handloading for it.

Edited November 5, 2012 by dave524

[NAW]

 

Your old 222 has a slower twist rifling than is common today, probably best with bullets in the 40 to 50 grain tops range, if you are handloading for it.

 

Thanks!

 

I think I will get in to the hand loading eventually. But for now, I'm just going to go grab a few boxes and see what shots the best.

[backbay]

Another vote for the Tru Oil, btw. Yes, water resistant, although not to the same extent as the poly.

[DRIFTER_016]

I refinished my buddies old single shot 410 that he had since he was a kid. It spent a lot of time behind the seat of his pickup trucks over the years and was pretty beat up.

 

I refinished all the wood with Tru Oil and cleaned up and re-blued the barrel and action. The end result was an old firearm that looked like new!!!

 

My buddy was most impressed and very happy with the result.

[NAW]

I refinished my buddies old single shot 410 that he had since he was a kid. It spent a lot of time behind the seat of his pickup trucks over the years and was pretty beat up.

 

I refinished all the wood with Tru Oil and cleaned up and re-blued the barrel and action. The end result was an old firearm that looked like new!!!

 

My buddy was most impressed and very happy with the result.

 

What did you use to re-blue the barrel? I was thinking about doing it.

[DRIFTER_016]

What did you use to re-blue the barrel? I was thinking about doing it.

 

 

Cold bluing purchased @ LeBarons.

I followed the instructions and was impressed how easy it was and how well it turned out.

 

Outers Gun Blue Kit

[bigbuck]

There's plenty of videos on you tube on re bluing a firearm. You may as well take the barrel and action off of the stock to get the whole thing done. It will definitely look better once you refinish it. As long as the bore and rifling is intact, she will shoot real fine. The old Remington 700 series rifles were tack drivers out of the box. Try 2 or 3 different rounds but don't go with a real heavy bullet, you don't need it. Bore sight it once its back together and then dial her in nice at 200 yards and you will have a great shooter.

[NAW]

I just dropped 50 bucks at the local gun shop. Got a blueing kit, and 50 rounds.

 

Gunna do a test fire this weekend.

 

I might have to order the truoil online. He didn't have any in stock, but recommended I use "Tung Oil" from the hardware store.

[backbay]

I just dropped 50 bucks at the local gun shop. Got a blueing kit, and 50 rounds.

 

Gunna do a test fire this weekend.

 

I might have to order the truoil online. He didn't have any in stock, but recommended I use "Tung Oil" from the hardware store.

 

Something I was going to mention was that if you go the Tru Oil route, (thin coats applied by hand), is that after your last coat has had time to dry, apply MinWax furniture wax and buff it after it drys. It's good stuff and will help protect the finish.

[dave524]

Tung Oil or Boiled Linseed oil will both darken the wood and hide the grain , do the Truoil.

[bigbuck]

Its a utility rifle and started off in rough shape. Tung oil or the linseed oil will do fine. You don't need to go and spend a lot on this old gun. Spend your dough on ammo to learn how it shoots.

[bare foot wader]

cool restoration, always enjoy seeing this type of stuff...don't forget to post final pics

[Dabluz]

I've always used the best boiled linseed oil I could find to finish my firearms. The finish is beautiful, waterproof, non-reflective and scratch resistant. Wiping down with a lightly oiled cloth every now and again keeps the finish in great condition.

 

I've never heard of "Tru-Oil". It sounds good to me.

[NAW]

I wanted it ready for January, and it is!

 

The gun turned out great. I tried a technique to raise the grain by using a damp cloth and a torch. It worked well. Then I hand rubbed the stock to get the finish I was looking for.

 

The rust came off the barrel pretty good. Some spots are beyond repair with out sending the barrel our for bluing after.

 

I stripped the trigger guard and some other components down to bare steel and re-blue'd them my self.

 

The finishing touch was a new scope that I grabbed at BPS earlier today.

 

For those who wanted to see the finished result, here it is! Just a little detail work required around the grips, and she's ready to hammer some yotes!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 10, 2012 by N.A.W

[kickingfrog]

Looks great.

 

If I come across a deal, I'll be sure to send it to you for a tuneup.

[Leecher]

Great job Nick Looks mint Love how the grain came out on the stock Let us know how it shoots

Edited December 10, 2012 by TroutJunkie

[cisco]

Looks like the new scope is placed way back from the original. Scope rule of thumb is for end to be about 1 1/2 inch behind trigger. Careful you don't get an 'eyering' when you shoot where the scope hits/cuts you around your sight eye. Put a coat on and close your eyes and raise the gun to your shoulder putting cheek onto stock like you're gonna shoot. Open your eyes to figure where the scope should be slid to for proper targetting. If the action won't work due to scope width then go with higher mounts.

[bigbuck]

That looks like a new gun. Now, bore site it, get the scope set up and fire a few groups to see how it shoots.

[NAW]

Looks great.

 

If I come across a deal, I'll be sure to send it to you for a tuneup.

 

Thanks man! PM me if you end up buy a gun that needs a little work. They are easy to re-finish. I would be more the happy to pass down the pointers that where passed down to me.

 

Great job Nick Looks mint Love how the grain came out on the stock Let us know how it shoots

 

Thanks Jaques. Should be a tack driver!

 

Looks like the new scope is placed way back from the original. Scope rule of thumb is for end to be about 1 1/2 inch behind trigger. Careful you don't get an 'eyering' when you shoot where the scope hits/cuts you around your sight eye. Put a coat on and close your eyes and raise the gun to your shoulder putting cheek onto stock like you're gonna shoot. Open your eyes to figure where the scope should be slid to for proper targetting. If the action won't work due to scope width then go with higher mounts.

 

I knew someone would notice that!

The new scope is longer than the old one. So that is one reason for the difference. Also, the old scope was mounted by the previous owner at least 25 years ago. The gun is from the 50's. So when he mounted the scope, he had to drill and tap new holes for mounting the scope bases. Using the existing holes, this was the only position I could make it work.

Fortunately, the scope placement works perfect for how I shoulder the gun. There won't be any rings around my eyes! Plus, this gun has very little kick.

Thanks for commenting on that though. I've mounted a few scopes in my day, and that's always the first thing on my mind!

 

Oh, and the action clear the scope by under 1/4". I will have to cycle some rounds thru, and make sure they don'y ting the scope on the way out!

 

 

That looks like a new gun. Now, bore site it, get the scope set up and fire a few groups to see how it shoots.

 

That's the plan. This weekend! I really can not believe how well the gun came out. It really does look like a new gun. And it's around 60 years old!!

[Ralph Field]

Your gun looks great!

[richyb]

Great looking job. My dad has the same gun and they are great shooters.