New or New to me boat shopping.

[ckrb2007]

Hey guys. I'm in the market for a new or new to me boat (probably a used one due to my budget). I'm looking to buy in the spring but I'm shopping around and learning what I can now before I start to agressively look. My budget is $20,000 max. I have thought long and hard about the type of boat I want and I've decided to go with a bass boat since the majority of my fishing will be done in the Kawarthas, for bass. I'm thinking I want over 90hp on it....just not sure whether to go with 2 or 4-stroke. I also know Id rather a cable steer then a power steer trolling motor.

This will be my first boat purchase so I want to make sure I cover all the basics. What should I look for in regards to wear and tear? What make...boat and motor? I was told to stay away from Nitro boats. Electronics? Batteries/chargers? Hot-foot or not? Jack plate or no Jack plate? My buddy has a triton 175 with a 90hp merc optimax on it and it gets to about 45mph with 2 of us in it and our gear.

I'm sure I'll think of more questions to ask when the responses start rolling in.

 

Thanks for your input guy/gals.

 

Colin

[BillM]

So much more bang for your buck if you shop stateside. I'd personally try to buy in the fall as well, much better deals to be had.

[Stoty]

With a $20,000 budget, you'll be able to get a much bigger and more powerful boat than your buddy.

(I just bought a 20' Nitro with a 225 Opti for that price)

 

Whoever said to stay away from Nitro.... clearly doesnt know what they're talking about as they are def one of the top brands available (hence why KVD still runs one)

 

Ranger, Nitro, Skeeter, Triton are all very similar but it all depends on personal preference and what you're looking for.

 

 

Jack plate, hotfoot, electronics are all personal preference and everyone will have their own opinions.

 

My boat came with a Jack Plate and hotfoot and love them both but they def aren't a "must have".

I've always used Lowrance units, but this boat came with two Humminbirds (which I love now), so again... all personal preference.

 

 

Major things to look for:

- any visible damage to the hull, especially the transom. If you see ANY cracking in the transom... WALK AWAY.

- deep scratches that are through the clear coat and into the fibreglass are a red flag for sure.

- also, if you can get some diagnostics done on the engine DO IT. Those show you the stats and aren't just an educated guess from the owner because chances are they are taking off a "few hrs".

[ckrb2007]

So much more bang for your buck if you shop stateside. I'd personally try to buy in the fall as well, much better deals to be had.

 

How does that work Bill?? In regards to bringing it back over? Taxes, duties..etc.

[ckrb2007]

With a $20,000 budget, you'll be able to get a much bigger and more powerful boat than your buddy.

(I just bought a 20' Nitro with a 225 Opti for that price)

 

Whoever said to stay away from Nitro.... clearly doesnt know what they're talking about as they are def one of the top brands available (hence why KVD still runs one)

 

Ranger, Nitro, Skeeter, Triton are all very similar but it all depends on personal preference and what you're looking for.

 

 

Jack plate, hotfoot, electronics are all personal preference and everyone will have their own opinions.

 

My boat came with a Jack Plate and hotfoot and love them both but they def aren't a "must have".

I've always used Lowrance units, but this boat came with two Humminbirds (which I love now), so again... all personal preference.

 

 

Major things to look for:

- any visible damage to the hull, especially the transom. If you see ANY cracking in the transom... WALK AWAY.

- deep scratches that are through the clear coat and into the fibreglass are a red flag for sure.

- also, if you can get some diagnostics done on the engine DO IT. Those show you the stats and aren't just an educated guess from the owner because chances are they are taking off a "few hrs".

Thanks for the input Stoty.......I'm just going by what people told me about Nitro. 2 guys have them where I camp and both of them said the paint or something is bubbling on the hull. I'll have to find out exactly what they are talking about.

[Stoty]

They're telling you to stay away because of paint bubbling?????

[ckrb2007]

They're telling you to stay away because of paint bubbling?????

I guess they're just pi$$ed off about it happening to their boats. lol I can look beyond that for sure. I've also heard nothing but good things about the Opti.

Edited July 24, 2012 by ckrb2007

[Stoty]

I guess they're just pi$$ed off about it happening to their boats. lol I can look beyond that for sure. I've also heard nothing but good things about the Opti.

 

Ya, def dont let a "cosmetic" issue with two boats turn you off a brand name. Nothing a wrap cant fix

 

 

I like the opti, but my personal preference would be to move to a Yamaha (SHO is by far the best engine available, IMO).

I had a 4-stroke Yamaha on my Ranger, and loved it! I'd highly recommend looking at them if possible.

[ckrb2007]

Ya, def dont let a "cosmetic" issue with two boats turn you off a brand name. Nothing a wrap cant fix

 

 

I like the opti, but my personal preference would be to move to a Yamaha (SHO is by far the best engine available, IMO).

I had a 4-stroke Yamaha on my Ranger, and loved it! I'd highly recommend looking at them if possible.

I had a Ford Taurus SHO when I was younger.....that thing hauled ass too!! hahaha

[Stoty]

LOL!

[lew]

Ya, def dont let a "cosmetic" issue with two boats turn you off a brand name.

 

 

Bubbling isn't a "normal" thing on a boat though, and myself, I'd be very interested in knowing what's causing the bubbling if I was thinking about buying it.

 

But that's just me

[fish_fishburn]

Maybe your confused about the Nitro glass boats and the Tracker aluminum boats. By paint coming off of the hull I think they are talking about tin boats. I have a Nitro bass boat that I bought new in 96 and it has been an awesome boat. Its the Savage model which they no longer make. I can crank it hard at WOT and full trim and it goes where I want it to go. Don't try that in a Stratos or Triton cause the bow will hook and send you for a swim. I have seen it happen with both of these models, and thankfully no one was hurt but really shook up.

 

As for what to look for:

Check the hull for damage like deep scrapes and big chips that haven't been repaired.

If the boat is super clean chances are the guy takes care of his boat. If its filthy walk away, the guy probably doesn't take care of it.

Spider cracks on the top of the boat are not to much of a concern as they are just superficial from flexing over time. All bass boats will get them eventually.

Check the steering. If its rack steering and over 5 yrs old the the cables will start to get stiff and have to be replaced soon.

Get a compression test done on the motor an

d have a mechanic go over it before you buy.

Take it for a test drive to make sure everything works properly.

If the carpets are worn and dirty they will have to be replaced and be warned your looking at close to 2 grand to have that done.

If the price is to good to be true it probably is. If your gut tells you no listen and walk, its easy for a first time buyer to be over whelmed by lots of bling.

Thoroughly check out the trailer from front to back and make sure all works properly ie, lights and brakes if so equipped. To check brakes I drive down a steep hill and hit the brakes hard, while looking out your side mirrors you should see a bit of smoke from the trailer tires as they lock up then you know they work good.

Check the transom for cracks inside and out. Any cracks walk away.

Also when the boat is off the trailer chec the bunks for missing lag bolts and flex the bunks to make sure they are not rotten. Its hard to tell when they are rotten and covered with carpet.

Good luck looking.

[Dutch]

Was in your situation myself a few years back, similar budget as well.

 

What you will find is the following - used bass boats are hard to come by. Those that are in good shape sell very, very fast. You won't be able to find a used boat with everything you want on it - or it will be very difficult to. Budget at least another $500-$1,000 for after-purchase buys for electronics/other maintenance items.

 

I got my boat in the states - if is a fairly straight forward process, a little more work, but not much. I won't get into the details, there's tons of reference material out there already that covers it off. Selection in the states was much better, as were the prices, especially with the dollar near par. Best thing is, you won't be competing with other people when it comes to buy - I missed out on 2-3 boats up here being the second caller. Thing is they weren't exactly what I wanted either, just in the general vicinity, that why I went to the states to buy.

 

For that money, you should be able to get a fairly newer model 18' boat with a 150HP on it. 2 or 4 stroke is just personal preference, as are electronics. Jack plate is nice to have (I put mine on after), but not a necessity. Hot foot and blinker trim are a MUST in my opinion. So much safer and easier to manoeuver with. I picked up a 2007 Triton TR-186 in 2009 for similar money that your are looking to spend, a bit less actually and that was after a marine survey and gas to drive to Georgia and pick it up.

 

Based on my research, when asking about brands - people reccomend what they have, that's human nature. Do some independant research to determine the pros and cons of each make and make up your own mind. After my research, the only boats I was looking at were Tritons and Rangers for a numbers of reasons. They are simply well made boats with few complaints. I didn't like the look of the Skeeters in the water. The hull design didn't do it for me, althought they are a good boat. I didn't like stratos much either. They have a very pronounced back-heavy sit in the water. Gettting to the front deck was like climbing a hill. Didn't even look at Nitro - you'll find out why once you start doing your research. The lower-end models in my price range were just not as well built as the makes mentioned above. Fit and finish was lacking, could go into it further, but won't. Higher-end models MAY be better, but my experience in buying in the US was when I asked why someone was selling a Nitro - they were switching to another brand. That's why they are cheaper and more abundant than the other makes. Plain and simple. KVD may drive one - but they pay him a TON of money to do it.

 

As far as wear and tear - check the hull for obvious repairs. Condition on a used boat is subjective as far as asthetics goes. I didn't want any scrathces or gouges in the gel coat at all. The boat I bought had one. Depending on age, there may be a few scratches here and there, but if there are a lot, guy didn't care too much and I would stay away. Make sure you check everything and WATER TeST BEFORE YOU BUY!!!!! Far too many people don't and it is crazy not to. Check all the systems on the water - bilge, livewell pump in/out, float switch for auto bilge. Electronics, temp guages, lights (boat and trailer) if they don't work, start deducting money from the purchase price for everything that is not declared.

 

You may want to consider a keel guard, mines come in handy. I have power steering - great feature, wouldn't go back to cable steer.

 

OH - batteries, yeah, IMO it doesn't matter how old the seller says they are, they are usually older and not well maintained. Budget to replace the batteries in year of purchase or following season. As far as hours on the motor, lower is not always better and people lie outright about how many hours are on it. Get a print out.

 

OK - pay for a marine survey or a mechanic to go over the motor. It's the most expensive of the items you are buying to replace. THey need to check the compression of a warm motor, do a leak down test and check the plugs. I also suggest checking each of the coils to ensure they are firing properly ESPECIALLY with Opti's. Two guys I know have has bad coils from day one and as a result, misfiring pistons. Won't do damage, but it is really annoying. The mechanics usually say it is the plugs (not covered under warranty) or the ever-popular "bad gas" which is a crock of Bull.

 

Good luck with your purchase and keep us posted.

 

Buy in the fall, selection is better and so are prices.

 

One last thing - when you see a boat you like, have cash in hand, ready to buy. There's no time for delay or hymming and hawing, some one else is looking and will commit to buy it, leaving you wishing you hadn't drug your feet. Having said that, don't be in a hurry to buy either - makes SURE it is the one you want. KNow what you want, how much you want to pay and if things line up - be ready to act quickly, but DON'T sacrifice being comfortable with the boat/motor/trailer by getting the inspections done. Not doing them just to get the boat can end up costing you a lot of time, money and effort.

[Harrison]

ckrb2007, when you are closer to pulling the trigger fire me a PM, I've owned a few and been in and out of all different brands of bass boats over the last 15 years or so and have friends with every brand.

 

One thing I will say, do not go less then a 19fter/200hp, you WILL get the "itis". Just personal experience, especailly where you live and the water close.

 

Serious about the PM.

 

As for Nitros, great boats, owned two of them. Loved the 19'6 896 Savage, awesome big water boat.

 

There was some problems with some of the glass and gel coat that was fixed under warranty, besides that is was good.

 

Hands down #1 for me is a Ranger with Bass Cat a close second.

Edited July 24, 2012 by Harrison

[fishnsled]

Bubbling isn't a "normal" thing on a boat though, and myself, I'd be very interested in knowing what's causing the bubbling if I was thinking about buying it.

 

But that's just me

 

X2.

[ckrb2007]

Thanks for the great replies thus far guys! Making a huge checklist as to what to look for.

 

Colin

[hirk]

You may think a 17' with a 115 or something similar is all you need but 100% likely you would end up wishing you bought bigger. Storage,rough water ride,fishability and speed or lack of all of the above is why you would regret it. Anything over 19' and not under powered should keep you happy.

[bigbuck]

Bubbling could be osmosis damage. Its mostly cosmetic unless the bubble is huge. Repair involves sanding it down, letting it dry, filling and gel coating. It will happen to 1 in 3 boats that stay moored in the water for any length of time. Def check out the US, tons of great deals.

[hirk]

Buck is right about bubbles being osmosis and it happens to alot of boats that dont stay in the water too. The US epa mandated changes in the type of gel builders could use a few yrs back for enviromental reasons and some will bubble where they sit on the bunks,Tritons are known for this. You have to feel the hull where it sits on the bunks

[hirk]

Buck is right about bubbles being osmosis and it happens to alot of boats that dont stay in the water too. The US epa mandated changes in the type of gel builders could use a few yrs back for enviromental reasons and some will bubble where they sit on the bunks,Tritons are known for this. You have to put in the water or lift the hull to feel the hull where it sits on the bunks,if its bubbled run its moisture saturated and delaminating from the glass mat.

[ckrb2007]

You may think a 17' with a 115 or something similar is all you need but 100% likely you would end up wishing you bought bigger. Storage,rough water ride,fishability and speed or lack of all of the above is why you would regret it. Anything over 19' and not under powered should keep you happy.

 

So what would the best motor size for a 18' or 19' boat?

[hirk]

18 fishes small too and not likely a stellar ride in rough stuff, under 19' a 150-175 is fine, over 19' with the exception of a few fast hulls you must run a 200+ or it will be a dog.