Prop advice

[Nipfisher]

I need a new prop for my 1991 Yamaha 90hp. The prop on the motor now is 12 5/8 x 21 -K.

 

I can get a NEW replacement for $100-$150.

 

 

Any suggestions on what prop I should get? My boat will run around 40 mph and that is fast enough for me.

 

Is there any performance props I should look at? I fish some rocky areas and the prop WILL get dinged.

 

 

What do y'all think?

[mike rousseau]

Go stainless

 

If you gunna bump your prop LIGHTLY and you know this... The stainless will not bend...

 

However the shock is distributed to other parts of the motor...

 

But at least if I hit a log while trolling I don't need to quit fishing for the day and get the prop repaired...

[Fisherman]

Go stainless

 

If you gunna bump your prop LIGHTLY and you know this... The stainless will not bend...

 

However the shock is distributed to other parts of the motor...

 

But at least if I hit a log while trolling I don't need to quit fishing for the day and get the prop repaired...

 

Somehow this sounds like the reverse psychology of not using a transom saver. Use a stainless prop and the ding it suffers will be distributed to the rest of the motor.

[lew]

 

 

Is there any performance props I should look at? I fish some rocky areas and the prop WILL get dinged.

 

 

What do y'all think?

 

I'm just the opposite cause when I'm fishing nasty areas I remove my stainless prop and put on the cheap aluminum spare and when it gets dinged or ruined I'm not out alot of $$$$

[DRIFTER_016]

I fish shield lakes exclusively and only run aluminum props.

Way too many unknown shoals popping up out of 200 FOW to risk stainless here.

I also keep a spare prop in the back of the boat as well as the tools to replace it.

If you run a lot of rocky water I would go aluminum again and have Citywide Welding in Mississauga repair your old one for use as a spare.

[Raf]

what drifter said. aluminum, spare prop, tools and city wide.

 

if you know you are going to ding, run aluminum. better the prop than a shaft inside.

 

to be honest though, i don't know how someone can ding rocks on a regular basis. if you don't know, go slow. pay attn and quit staring down your wife's top.

 

i fish some of the rockiest/shoaliest areas around which are often uncharted and although i am sure it will happen one day, i've yet to ding my prop.

Edited June 6, 2012 by Raf

[bigbuck]

If you hit a shoal with a stainless prop, the prop will only have a ding, BUT the prop shaft will be warped, various gears damaged to the tune of 2k +. An aluminum prop is a buck to a buck and a half, stick to that. If you are happy with your performance, get the same prop and/or repair yours. Should have a spare on board just in case.

[davey buoy]

I agree with the aluminum prop for sure.How about backing up the boat in the back yard and having your son tell you when you get a foot from the tree. And doesn't tell you. :wallbash:Prop bent bad, but no internal damage.City wide at the rescue again. Rocky lake,only way to go.Relatively cheap to repair.

Edited June 6, 2012 by davey buoy

[woodenboater]

if you don't know, go slow. pay attn and quit staring down your wife's top.

so, so glad I wasn't having a drink when I read this...

 

but yeah, aluminium prop as a sacrificial offering to the river gods.

[Nipfisher]

My post is a bit mixed up. I will only go aluminum because I fish rocky lakes. What I meant by performance was a bigger/smaller prop or different pitch.

 

I will get my old one touched up and ballanced to use as a spare.

 

 

 

Thanks for the advise but ss really isn't an option for me.

[bucktail]

I have a 90hp Yamaha and only aluminum for me. No gain with stainless as the hp is to low to cause bending of the prop. Try Michigan Props they have great preices.

[NANUK]

The existing prop size sounds right for that motor, also the speed you mentioned is what you will get from that setup.

I assume you're running around 57k - 58 k RPM @ WOT, you don't want to drop on pitch if those are your RPM.

every deg of pitch will make approx 200 RPM difference (lower pitch = higher RPM )