Is Your Trailer Road Worthy?

[pooch]

I have put off an overhaul on my trailer for a few years, but it's at the point it must be done this spring. Going to get started this week, and found a decent checklist to guide my work. If you any more insight/items to add, please do so.

 

Thanks,

pooch

 

 

1. Lights: Test the trailer’s lights. If one doesn’t work, check the bulb, socket and the connector plug before you direct attention to the wiring system.

 

2. Load Guides: Check the condition of loading guides. Some are designed to revolve freely and may require lubrication, while board-type guides may need re-carpeting.

 

3. Brakes: If so equipped, inspect the brakes and breakaway system, and adjust to the specs listed in the owner’s manual. Top off the fluid level and check for contamination. Service the brakes as needed.

 

4. Suspension: Inspect your trailer’s suspension. Look for cracks in the leaf springs or excessive rust anywhere — especially on hangers, bushings and bolts. If in doubt, replace the hardware.

 

5. Wheel Bearings: Inspect and, if needed, lubricate, repack or replace trailer wheel bearings. Make sure the spindle nut is tight, and top off bearing protectors with the proper lubricant. Don’t overfill, however, or you risk blowing out a rear seal.

 

6. Tires: Take a close look at the tires (including that all-important spare) checking for lumps, cracks, or excessive or uneven tread wear. Replace any questionable rim or tire, and top off each with the manufacturer’s recommended maximum cold inflation pressure.

 

7. Bunks & Rollers: Make sure that bunks and/or rollers are supporting the hull as evenly as possible and that all rollers are turning freely. You may have to float the boat off the trailer to lubricate or service rollers, and recarpet or replace worn bunks and hardware.

 

8. Corrosion: Look for signs of rust along the frame, fenders and axles, and correct small problems before they become big problems.

 

9. Bow Stop & Winch: Inspect the bow stop, winch and tongue jack. The bow stop and jack should both be secure and the hardware in good shape. Test the winch brake to make sure it engages easily and is able to hold its own. Lubricate the winch and jack per the manufacturers’ recommendations.

 

10. Winch Strap: Check the winch strap or cable, safety chains and transom tie downs for wear or corrosion. Check the entire length of the strap, and replace it if it’s frayed or worn, paying extra attention to where it attaches to the bow hook.

 

11. Coupler & Hitch: Test the hitch coupler/brake actuator to make sure the coupler latches tightly onto the hitch ball. Adjust or replace it if it doesn’t, because this is one connection you don’t want problems with.

 

www.trailerboats.com

[Terry]

thanks for the reminder

it is that time of year again

[lew]

All good stuff there Pooch, thanks.

 

For some reason, trailer tires always seem to split on the sidewall alot faster than car tires and it's imperative to check them frequentely. Mine are checked VERY closely several times a year.

 

Same as trailer tire pressure, mine is checked before EVERY trip.

[Grimace]

good info.

 

I was thinking of maybe getting some tire covers for my trailer like the winnebago people do. keep the sun off them when its sitting. does that have anything to do with trailer tires cracking faster maybe? sitting in the sun in the same place longer?

[Entropy]

I hear ya,

 

1) I need to put on new lights, the contacts in the existing ones are corroded and falling appart.

 

2) Grease the Bearings

 

3) get a couple of welds repaired, (they are not rusting 'much' but are begining to rip).

 

4) it's time for new carpet.

 

I got new rubber last year so I'm set in that department.

 

Entropy

Edited March 26, 2007 by Entropy

[lew]

Couple years ago, I backed my boat off the trailer and one of the bunks actually broke in half.

 

Luckily I was at my trailer park, so I just tied the boat to my dock, went to town and got a new piece of presssure treated wood, removed the carpet from the old bunk and put it on the new one and it was good to go again in an hour.

 

I had a close look at the broken piece and it snapped right on a knot in the wood.

 

Could have been a very bad situation though if it had happened while I was loading the boat on some ramp late at night on a different lake......just something to think about.

[Eddyk]

Like Lew said. Last year I had a trailor bunk break on me. When I inspected it ,it was not made of pressure treated wood which surprized me because its a LOWE trailor.

[Fishnfiend]

I thought pressure treated wood was not good for our waterways/fish...? Or is that only for docks that are constantly in contact/close proximity to the lake/river? I would think that using pressure treated wood on a boat trailer would have a similar effect. I know that you are not allowed to use it for any docks at my folks place.

 

Thanks for the reminder as I need to rewire my trailer.

Edited March 26, 2007 by Fishnfiend

[lew]

I've never heard that about pressure treated trailer bunks before Fishnfiend, but it's an interesting thought.

[Rich Clemens]

Great advice Pooch. It's too easy to overlook the simplist of things ... and they're the ones that create the major headaches. Thanks for posting these.

[Roy]

All good tips. Thanks!

Aside from the normal welds on the trailer, I also have several nuts and bolts on mine. Three times a year, spring, summer and fall I check every nut and bolt on the trailer to make sure they're snug and tight. In fact, this past fall I replaced them all with SS hardware.

[Daplumma]

Another tip is you to change over to the LED bulbs.They are brighter and dont run as hot.They are less likely to pop whenyou back your trailer into the water if you forgetto unplug your trailer.

Roy also has a trick light system on his jeep.

Joe

[irishfield]

Pressure treated wood used to have arsenic in it and why it was highly frowned upon as dock material. It no longer has arsenic in it and is supposed to be fine now...or at least no worse, or better, than the people that repaint their spruce/fir docks every couple years with paint splashing / dripping in the water as they go.

[John Bacon]

Pressure treated wood used to have arsenic in it and why it was highly frowned upon as dock material. It no longer has arsenic in it and is supposed to be fine now...or at least no worse, or better, than the people that repaint their spruce/fir docks every couple years with paint splashing / dripping in the water as they go.

 

My understanding is that pressure treated wood is corrosive to Aluminum. Even with carpet that there is a chance that as corner of the bunk could come in contact with the boat; especially as the carpet wears. Some thing to consider when replading the bunks.

[Garyv]

Getting back to "Is Your Trailer Road Worthy?"....Yes it is, probably because it's maintained throughout the season and especially before being stored with the boat. Why, because I had a bearing go out once on my tandem trailer on the highway, and said it would never happen again if I could help it.

Edited March 28, 2007 by Garyv

[easton13th]

Have to do some minor repairs on my trailer this year mostly routine from normal wear and usage, BUT thanks your check list is a great tool for those overlooked items. As for the runners, would it be worth the extra cost to use a cedar or teak wood rather than pressure treated? Would they be durable enough?