Billy Bob Posted October 28, 2010 Report Posted October 28, 2010 As you know the history of it, just carry on the scheduled maintenance on it where the previous owner left off. Changing the oil, plugs and filters 'just cuz' is a waste of cash and won't affect the running unless there's a problem - by all means whip the plugs out and check them, it'll give you a good idea of how it's running but I'd be saving for the day something breaks and you get a big bill (it's 12 years old after all) BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN EVEN CONSIDERING CHANGING SPARK PLUGS ON SOME FORD V-8 ENGINES.......DO A GOOGLE SEARCH FIRST....SOME BREAK OFF AND LEAVE YOU WITH HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS IN REPAIR BILLS TO REMOVE THE BROKEN PLUGS. Might be better off just living with the plugs you have. Sorry for all the caps but I really want to get the OP's attention on this matter. Bob
MCTFisher9120 Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Posted October 28, 2010 Hmm, more good info guys thanks.
MCTFisher9120 Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Posted October 28, 2010 I can agree with everything EXCEPT #5....Step five... sell it in 2-3 years.... buy a Chevy ! Make that a Toyota TUNDRA and you will have one sweet ride my friend... Toyota?? Pfft they only started making trucks last year didnt they I think a big Dodge or Ford is the way to go when the $$ starts to roll in, in a few years
Bernie Posted October 28, 2010 Report Posted October 28, 2010 EC, I have had this discussion with the MTO guys. We had a seminar with them a couple years a go about this issue and other items. As a shop owner you could actually be fined by the MTO for forcing a customer to repair something that isn't part of the inspection. Even though you say it is up to you, it isn't according to them. You need to follow the regulations as per written. I even was warned that one of my inspections I repaired lights that were not part of the inspection and could be fined for doing so. The guy was an but he was correct. I was our towns local fire inspector for a few years and went to courses on how to interpret the manual correctly. So if I am in doubt on an interpretation I read it through very carefully now. I agree with you though, it should be up to the technicians discretion as he is the professional. Their rebuttal is that not all techs are honest and they could go too far. The inspection book is definitely in serious need of an update. It is still written as if a car was still built in the 1960's.
BillM Posted October 28, 2010 Report Posted October 28, 2010 If it passes emissions that's a pretty good indicator the engine is in decent running order. Don't piss money away because it's burning a hole in your wallet. If it ain't broke, don't fix it
mikeh Posted October 28, 2010 Report Posted October 28, 2010 If you do want to buy some kind of cover for the back, check kijiji or craigslist for some deals.
DanD Posted October 28, 2010 Report Posted October 28, 2010 (edited) Thanks Bernie Thats what I was trying to say; its not what we know as techs; its what the regs say, as to what we are allowed to do. Yes we can refuse to certify anything but we cannot charge for an inspection and then force repairs above the regs. I hate it at times and I document everything on my invoice that I have concerns with. Just like the lighting issue you mentioned; a vehicle under a certain length and width (most all light duty vehicles), only require high & low beam headlights and a license plate light and that's it. But a divers side window must be able to go down; so the driver can perform hand signals; theres nothing about the window having to go back up. So you have a vehicle with the window that doesnt operate (go down) smash it and now it passes????????? Talk about outdated regs. Sorry about hijacking the thread Mike. You still have a decent truck; fix her up to where you like her and have fun with it. Dan. Edited October 28, 2010 by DanD
ciceri Posted October 28, 2010 Report Posted October 28, 2010 As for a cab or mat thing I don't really want either.....if I wanted a closed back I would of bought a van. Going to have my little boat sticking out of it most of the time and will be in and out with camping gear. A mat cover would be what i would put on in the winter to keep the snow from putting too much weight into it Trucks ride better with weight in the back, like a sled
Grimace Posted October 28, 2010 Report Posted October 28, 2010 If it is a 2 wheel drive you will want some weight in the back in the winter. Do not throw your money away on performance mods. You mentioned you do not have the money for insurance and gas so I suspect that you would not have the cash to do any mods. Keep the shiny side up, change the oil, and treat it good. That is all you need to do.
Grimace Posted October 28, 2010 Report Posted October 28, 2010 Oh and congrats on the ride. Nothing beats driving a truck.
Bernie Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 Careful with weight in the back of any vehicle. They must be tied down. In a collision or a ditching the object can become a deadly missile. A few years ago I had a pickup towed in after the driver went in the ditch. It was winter and the two pails of sand added for weight ended up in the cab of the truck. The driver was fortunate the pails missed her, it could have been deadly.
mercman Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 Careful with weight in the back of any vehicle. They must be tied down. In a collision or a ditching the object can become a deadly missile. A few years ago I had a pickup towed in after the driver went in the ditch. It was winter and the two pails of sand added for weight ended up in the cab of the truck. The driver was fortunate the pails missed her, it could have been deadly. i've seen on a few sights a bladder type thing that lays flat in the bed of the truck, and you fill it with water.it freezes and doesnt move.whe spring comes it thaws and you just empty the water and fold it for storage.
MCTFisher9120 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Posted October 29, 2010 And the encore of more good read. No hijack going on here. Very interesting stuff you guys are bring up. I think a really tune up is all it will need + a little body work.
mercman Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 And the encore of more good read. No hijack going on here. Very interesting stuff you guys are bring up. I think a really tune up is all it will need + a little body work. dont forget the glang glangs.........french for bells and whistles
Billy Bob Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 Toyota?? Pfft they only started making trucks last year didnt they I think a big Dodge or Ford is the way to go when the $$ starts to roll in, in a few years Think again when the $$$$$ starts to roll in..... Dodge = Worst Truck...this company didn't go bankrupt TWICE because of it's good vehicles Ford = Second Worst Truck...dog engines that either have spark plugs blow out or can't be removed Chevy = Third Worst Truck...in my experience they don't stand behind their product...had to fight in order to get warranty issues corrected And finally Toyota's new full size Tundra came out in Feb '07 Good Luck with your new future ride, Bob
DanD Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 And how many Toyota truck frames have rusted out; due to the recycled fish bones they used for metal Every manufacture has a few skeletons in their closet. Dan.
Billy Bob Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 And how many Toyota truck frames have rusted out; due to the recycled fish bones they used for metal Every manufacture has a few skeletons in their closet. Dan. I can't answer how many, but I do KNOW they stood behind their product and either purchased that vehicle or COMPLETELY replaced the frame while giving a customer a loaner for how long it took. I once went 2 weeks with a Chevy Blazer waiting for a bent connecting rod to be repaired WITHOUT a loaner vehicle and was during the warranty period. All this time I had to beg for rides back and forth to work.
anders Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 Just a question, if you cant afford the insurance on it or gas right now, why are you even considering purchasing the vechicle, regardless of the price? Personally, if i couldnt afford the insurance and gas I sure wouldnt to pay for the extras that will come along. I didnt purchase my first vehicle until i was 27 for those reasons. Just a thought. buy the way...i have the 2002 version..i love it, but get ready for "the incedentals"...they will show up!
MCTFisher9120 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Posted October 29, 2010 I already own the vehicle. And the only reason I dont have the money is because im in school until april...i got the summer to drive it and while working ill pocket money for insurance perhaps for a semester into next years school year....i would worry about the situation.
troutologist Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 Just a question, if you cant afford the insurance on it or gas right now, why are you even considering purchasing the vechicle, regardless of the price? Personally, if i couldnt afford the insurance and gas I sure wouldnt to pay for the extras that will come along. I didnt purchase my first vehicle until i was 27 for those reasons. Just a thought. buy the way...i have the 2002 version..i love it, but get ready for "the incedentals"...they will show up! I wondered the same thing, I walked everywhere for 4 years of school before got wheels. It is what it is, concetrate on the nuts and bolts not the fluff. You will get some good use out of it yet but remember what the Gambler said....you can only repair so often then it might be time for a new lawn ornament. Enjoy it, you will no doubt have some fun in it. Buy a come-along if its your 1st truck....you'll understand soon enough (yes it will seem like a good idea at the time)
bare foot wader Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 good thread, a few interesting points as I'm in a similar position I just bought a 2000 ranger with 201k on it....plugs and wires, filters and fluids, IAC, and epoxy liner....next will be shocks, rubbers, pads and rotors it's a sweet little truck 4x4, 4.0, supercab, just wish it was stick...my first truck and I got a great deal on it so I considered a few mods like you are but in the end I came to the same conclusion everybody here is saying...keep it driving well and get purchase price worth out of it....save your cash for your next ride, maybe younger and worth the investment....or jsut buy fishing gear! good luck with your truck
Dean Ellison Posted October 30, 2010 Report Posted October 30, 2010 I had a 1998 F150 with the 4.6L. I recently sold it to my nephew. I crown rustproofed mine anually from new. I recommend the following. Have it oil sprayed. Judging by the cancer (rust) already eating the body, I suspect your brake and fuel lines. Inspect the tie rods ends (inner and outer), and the ball joints (upper and lower). I had to replace all of mine @120K New wires,plugs,and coils may be needed. The engine may appear to be running great, but if any of these components are suspect, the engines' computer will compensate for these and lower your MPG. K&N filter did little for me. Stick with the stock filter. I installed a dual high flow exhaust which offered litle performance, but it sure sounds cool. I wouldn't bother with the body work, just drive the piss out of it for a couple of years and save your money for gas and a newer F150. Are those snow tires? You may need to buy some rubber. Good luck, and congats on your ride.
Whitespinnerbait Posted October 30, 2010 Report Posted October 30, 2010 Best performance "Bang for the Buck" is a #1 Chip "Edge Tuner" 400.00 $ (more horses = fuel economy) #2 Jet Throttle Body Spacer( better fuel economy)125.00 $ #3 K&N Cold Air Intake 250.00 $(more air more power better economy) #4 Magnaflow Cat Back Exhaust 550.00 $ (what comes in must come out) #5 Royal Purple Synthetic Fluids all 'round 250.00 $(less friction & heat) $1500:00 investment or so ..............that would take 10 years to recover , MAYBE
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