Water Pump and Tank

[Entropy]

Water Pump and Tank

 

Good Afternoon.

 

My pressure tank needs to be replaced. Is this something I can do myself?

 

I would greatly appreciate any advise on how to change it.

 

I can solder myself, but I’m not sure about what to do when I have the other installed.

There are valves to ‘isolate’ the pressure tank, which I assume is a good thing, but I might have to do some cutting and moving around if I buy a larger tank. Will I have to pressurize something? Set the on / off switch? Prime the pump? Release air from the lines? Fix an air lock (where might that occur)?

 

This set up is in my house, there are two hoses coming out of the pump on the right side which go to the well I assume, and one that comes from the top that goes to the line which is connected to the pressure tank. Any idea what size of tank this might be? I was going to buy a brand from Canadian Tire “Diamond” are they o.k.?

 

Also, is it easy to “re-pack” my iron filter, is this something I can do (if so where would I buy stuff to re-pack it with, or do I just clean it out)? Any Idea on where I would find manuals for the iron filter and water softer?

 

I have very little available funds for this, so I would like to do it myself. Or, will I end up calling in a pro after I mess it up, and pay more .... Suggestions?

 

Thanks

Entropy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 15, 2007 by Entropy

[muskieb]

To change the pressure tank is pretty easy. I am not a plumber by any stretch but I managed to install a whole new system this summer at the cottage(pump, filters, pressure tank, and water heater).

 

The Diamond tanks are pretty competitive from what I remember so I would think you are ok with them. They come pre-pressurized so you shouldn't have to worry about charging. If you have isolation valves that should make for a pretty easy switch out. As far as re-priming the pump, as long as you leave the suction side connected there should be no need to re-prime it. I would say go for it, should be easy enough for you. Maybe prior to doing it make sure you have a buddy or someone off of here that can at least help you on the phone if you run into trouble.

 

I know nothing about the iron filters so can't help you there.

 

Good luck.

[irishfield]

? ... but why do you need to replace the tank? Is it leaking?

[misfish]

Easy answer,hook up to the city water.DOH

 

I went through this as well,not fun, but the newer fittings these days make the job a snap.If you can get to a plumbing contractor supplier,you will get all the help you need and all the up to date easy attachments.

 

 

There is a hose and connector that is just a push fitting set up. Simple to put to gether.

 

Check it out.

 

Hope that helps.

 

This is the place I deal with.

 

 

nearnorth

[TAH]

Rattletrap your man , he usually checks in later on at night, or send him an e-mail. FYI, he lives in Brampton.

 

TH

[crusty]

I replaced all the items in question this summer for a insurance job(flood)

It was a fairly easy process, something you should be able to preform by yourself

Turn off the breaker to the pump

drain house of water, fill a bucket first

apply light heat from your propane tourch to the two black hoses going to the well(loosen gear clamps first,and move them aside)

now tug with all your might, the heating of the pipes will expand them enough to get off, too much and they will melt

you may have tobuy two new

the pressure tank should be easy

cut and weld in the new one

the bigger the better

you can even twin two big boys, Giving you more presssure before the pump needs to come on

now turn back on the power to the pump and adjust the cut in pressure setting on top of the pump

you may have to use a bike pump to bring the pressure of the tanks up to 15

These are guidlines the box instructions should be followed

Home de Pot has prices even cheaper than my plumbing Wholesaler,$200 cheaper on water softners

 

The iron remover is a different story

Does it contain pottasium permagnamate?

Is there a small 2 gallon container on the floor with a 1/4" water line running to it

This stuff is deadly, stains ,stinks,and can only be purchased by culligan

If so this should only be serviced by mr. culligan

 

While your system is apart it's a great time to add new equipment such as a UV light for bacteria

You should take untreated water sample to your local testing agency, they will tell you what you should buy

 

Hope this helps

Brian McCrostie

[Entropy]

During the home inspection we had EcoWater from Port Perry do an inspection, the previous owner did put in a huge UV light (3 ft long), but did not follow through on repairing or replacing the tank (bladder is shot).

 

Thanks for the info.

 

If I take the pump appart do I have to prime it? If so, how?

 

Entropy

[sturgman]

I can sympathise with your dilemma Entropy. Im sorry cant give much advice but I have learnt oodles from www.terrylove.com . Good Luck!!

[sturgman]

Better yet, try this http://www.terrylove.com/forums/

[Bernie]

Im no expert on plumbing but maybe a suggestion or two. Is your pump kicking on too often or as soon as you turn on a tap? This will mean the bladder is ruptured and will not retain the air in the top of the tank to absorb/create necessary pressure. But you can buy some time by adding air to the top of the tank manually. On the top of your tank there is a schrader valve the same as your car. Just pump some air into the top of the tank. It will stay there for quite a while (weeks) until it is gradually absorbed into the water. The bladder is supposed to prevent the air from being absorbed. If your tank is isolated from the system with a shut off valve it should make the job very easy(as long as the valve functions properly) Not sure from the picture how the pipe is attached to the tank but a couple pipe wrenches could do it. Im sure others here will offer their expertise here yet.

[Entropy]

Im no expert on plumbing but maybe a suggestion or two. Is your pump kicking on too often or as soon as you turn on a tap? This will mean the bladder is ruptured and will not retain the air in the top of the tank to absorb/create necessary pressure. But you can buy some time by adding air to the top of the tank manually. On the top of your tank there is a schrader valve the same as your car. Just pump some air into the top of the tank. It will stay there for quite a while (weeks) until it is gradually absorbed into the water. The bladder is supposed to prevent the air from being absorbed. If your tank is isolated from the system with a shut off valve it should make the job very easy(as long as the valve functions properly) Not sure from the picture how the pipe is attached to the tank but a couple pipe wrenches could do it. Im sure others here will offer their expertise here yet.

 

 

Yep, pro told me bladder is a bust, been adding air since last June, only seems to last 1 week maybe 2. Time to replace.

[Entropy]

Well, I went to Canadian Tire, they have an 84 Gal. for $250, and will sell to me for $199.99 (asked for their last sale price), so that’s a deal, but I will have to cut out the 2 isolation valves and add some pipe to make this bigger one fit. Will I loose prime, how do I prime.

 

That TerryLove site is good, will read more soon.

[irishfield]

If you have to cut the pipe after the pump outlet...cover it tight with plastic and tape it off (or cover with balloon tightly) while you work on the tank install. This will keep air from entering and if air can't enter water will have a harder time working it's way down past the foot valve in the well.. if it happens to leak slightly when not pressurized.

Edited February 16, 2007 by irishfield

[Zamboni]

Before replacing the tank check the fittings, use water/dish soap mixture right after pressurizing. Spread your 'leak detector' fluid on valve stem etc.....you may get lucky and save a few hundred dollars. Is there an air gauge on the tank to check pressure-or a place besides the valve to put a gauge.....check that plug also. Our cottage neighbour had a brand new tank losing air very slowly out of the actual air valve-not the base/fittings. Put a plastic cap on valve and problem solved.

[Entropy]

Well, I'm starting to think I'll just replace it with th 42 Gal not the 84 Gal, that way I will not have to cut out the isolation valves. That I do feel comfortable doing.

[Entropy]

I had a 'pro' come over, yes it is an 'air bleed off' valve which is supposed to be on top of a contact tank.

 

There is an air injector on the line between the pump and the tank.

 

The company said a new fiberglass pressure tank installed is $500, and that includes new line to and from with joints and valves.

 

For me to do it will cost $250, and if something goes wrong in the middle of the night, I've got problems. For $500 it is warantied for 5 years, and it is their problem. I think I will go with this route.

 

He also said that there is an "iron bacteria" in the well, lines, and equipment.

Said I should treat with Purox, I'm going to do this next week.

 

Thanks

[ccmtcanada]

I think you did the right thing if you were not entirely sure how to do the job yourself. I would have done the same!!

[Woodsman]

He also said that there is an "iron bacteria" in the well, lines, and equipment.

Said I should treat with Purox, I'm going to do this next week.

Thanks

 

Iron bacteria?? Never heard of it. Iron oxcides yes.

As for bacteria generally whats tested for is chloriforms & fecal bacteria. This requires a sample being sent to a lab and waiting for the results. Usually 3-7 days. Most local health units will do these tests. Without testing, bacteria levels are a wild guess at best.

As for treating the well with Purox (bleach) I do my well once a year. All ways it tests 0/0.

If you need some advice on shocking the well let me know. If also on a septic system make sure you don't get too much of the bleach into the septic system which will kill usefull bacteria which breaks down the sewage.

 

Good Luck: Rick

[Guest John Bennett]

Hi, I don’t know more about pumps and pressure tanks but I if you want to replace your old pump can suggest you a Link http://www.toyopumps.com/toyo_html/cantilevers-pumps_3.html of Toyo Pumps. Take a look on the different types of pumps at http://www.toyopumps.com i.e. dewatering pumps, positive displacement pumps, high pressure pumps etc.

Thanks,

 

John

[Fisherman]

Iron bacteria?? Never heard of it. Iron oxcides yes.

As for bacteria generally whats tested for is chloriforms & fecal bacteria. This requires a sample being sent to a lab and waiting for the results. Usually 3-7 days. Most local health units will do these tests. Without testing, bacteria levels are a wild guess at best.

As for treating the well with Purox (bleach) I do my well once a year. All ways it tests 0/0.

If you need some advice on shocking the well let me know. If also on a septic system make sure you don't get too much of the bleach into the septic system which will kill usefull bacteria which breaks down the sewage.

 

Good Luck: Rick

Never heard of it, never admit to that..here ya go: http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/well...onbacteria.html