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Posted (edited)

I've always used mono since i was a kid and thinking of going braid for it's sensitivity. It's highly visible nature is what bothers me. My setup is spinning, so please help me with my line choice.

 

Spinning Rod Setup

Fish for Largemouth/Pike/Smallmouth

 

I understand a Fluoro leader would be best for the Pike and I'm thinking always to use the Fluoro leader. Why wouldn't I use the Fluoro leader all the time for Large and Smallies? Cost only? Lure action? I'm not too concerned with cost as I appreciate getting out on the water and the extra few bucks doesn't bother me. Lure action - just tie it directly to the braid and not to use a snap?!?!??

 

I'm also worried about lb test. I understand with Pike and Largemouth for slashing x-raps, spinngin mepps and jig+pigging largies, that I should go heavier 20-25lb (?) and then for Smallies I should use (6-8lb?) for drop-shotting or jiggings or cranking?

 

Is there any way I can use 1 line for all 3 species or should I rig up 1 rod with 6-8 lb and the other with 20lb?

 

Always use Fluoro? 20 lb Fluoro for 20 lb braid on the Largemouth/Pike rod and 6 lb fluoro on 6 lb braid for the Smallies-rod? or just go full fluoro on both rods - 6lb fluoro (rod 1 - Smallies) and 20lb fluoro (rod 2 - Largemouth/Pike)? BUT if I'm using a Fluoro leader all the time, can I rig up 20lb braid and then just use a 20lb Fluoro leader since it's "invisible"?

 

Thanks so much for your posts!

Edited by MSBruno
Posted

You are going to get a lot of different opinions here.

 

I personally use 20 lbs Power Pro on my spinning reels and 50 lbs on my bait casters. I do not use a backing, I just use a piece of electrical tape to hold it on the spool, never had a problem.

 

As for leaders. I use a 6 inch titanium tippit when using jigs for pike. I do not use leaders any other time. I tie directly to the lure or ring. I have never had a break off. I have caught plenty of 10 lbs pike and 4 lbs bass. I also fish the St. Lawrence River. Very clear water. You can easily see bottom at 30 feet.

Posted

Braid is great for a lot of things but it is not perfect or "magical". Lots of pros and cons will be brought up I'm sure. Simple answer is no you don't always have to use a flouro leader with braid. Many times people will use a mono leader or no leader at all.

 

It really depends on the specific application and the conditions. Many of us use a braid that is rated at a break strength above what is recommended on the rod blank. If you're careful this usually isn't a problem, but it can leave you with a broken rod if you treat your braid set-up us you would your mono. I would suggest that the braid strength be only 5-10 pounds at most above what your rod is rated for. A mono leader can act as a bit of a shock absorber where as flouro doesn't stretch very much at all. In clearer water or with slower presentations I would be more apt to use a leader of some sort. My mono or flouro leaders are usually rated to break below what the main line is whether it is braid or not.

 

For pike I would use a much heavier flouro leader or a "metal" store bought one that is 9-12 inches.

 

I would think of the type of fish you are after as much as the way you are going after them and the conditions to determine the rod set-up.

 

Those are some of my ideas, not laid out very well 'cause I've got to get to work :whistling: , but along with other contributions I'm sure you'll have lots to work with.

 

Good luck. :Gonefishing:

Posted (edited)

I fished for the last two years or so with nothing but Fireline. I love it. Like another guy said, there are pros and cons. Also, different brands of braid perform differently. If you don't like your initial exposure to, say Fireline, try Powerpro...or whatever. One thing to remember is to bring a pair of leather gloves. Trying to free a snagged line by wrapping it around an ungloved hand is a sure way to get a nasty cut. Don`t ever use your rod as leverage to pull up a snag either, you`ll almost certainly break your rod first. I probably straighten out the hook more often than I snap the line when pulling on a snag.

 

I use 8 lb for bass and walleye, and 20 lb (with a steel leader) for pike. That's it. Late last year I started using 4 - 8 foot leaders of Seaguar twelve pound InvizX with the 8 lb. I like it and will continue to use it when the bite is off at all and you need work for 'em...when they're hungry they don't seem to care. That said, the addition of the flouro leader makes the overall breaking strength of your set-up LESS than that if you were using braid alone. Braided line (Fireline anyway...I have no exposure to anything else) holds up remarkably well against toothy critters and abrasive structure all on its own. For me, the flouro is all about stealth.

 

I use small barrel swivels (with no snaps) to join the braid to flouro. You indicated price is not a big factor so buy good swivels. The key word is SWIVEL. If they don`t spin well, you`ll get a lot of line twist. With short enough leaders the swivel rarely gets wound onto the bail or through the eyelets, so it`s not a big problem.

 

The flouro is a bit of a pain in the butt...it doesn`t always lay on your bail nicely, having to tie an extra two knots, etc...so I only it when it`s making a difference. I usually try the flouro to start with, and if the bite is on and I need to re-tie for some reason, I`ll not bother with the leader. If I notice I`m getting less hits I`ll go back to it. Like I said before, if the fish are hitting fairly well, the flouro doesn`t seem to make a big difference.

 

I would buy a small amount of some flouro about 150% the (rated) line strength of your braid. I find the braid is inherently stronger and if you use flouro at or below your braid strength the flouro is too weak. When it breaks it`ll almost always be at the lure knot or the knot connecting the flouro to the swivel and mainline. Try it out and then go from there.

Edited by Fishnwire
Posted

I don't have time for a solid reply here dude, but a quick note, you don't need to carry a leather glove and wrap it around your hand to break off braid. Just point the tip of your rod towards the snag (so you're not bending it) and hold your spool, or lock down your drag and the line will break, or straiten your hook. Even with a glove on, I'd never wrap 50lb + braided line around my hand and chance tangling my self up in the line which is anchored underwater. Just my opinion though!

 

Use a fluoro leader in clear water, and strait braid in stained water.

 

Cheers,

Ryan

Posted
I'd never wrap 50lb + braided line around my hand and chance tangling my self up in the line which is anchored underwater. Just my opinion though!

Ya...I never thought of it that way but I'll second that idea :D

Posted (edited)
Stick with mono and put the money you save into more rods, reels and lures.

 

Mono has it's place. But I find the sensitivity of braid along with the no stretch is really great for working tube jigs and fishing the slop for bass. It also helps greatly while working walk the dog type baits like the zara spook. The only time I ever use mono now is on my pin and my UL setup for trout. Braid on pretty much everything else.

Edited by BillM
Posted
Mono has it's place. But I find the sensitivity of braid along with the no stretch is really great for working tube jigs and fishing the slop for bass. It also helps greatly while working walk the dog type baits like the zara spook. The only time I ever use mono now is on my pin and my UL setup for trout. Braid on pretty much everything else.

 

 

And that's fine, everyone has their opinion. The way I look at it, for the recreational angler, I really don't find it necessary. I use Ande, because it great line, it's virtually disappears underwater because of it's colour (green) and because it's cheap. And besides, with mono, you don't have to go screwing around with tying on floro leaders and all that crap.

Posted

Braid is probably cheaper in the long run for a recreational angler. I fish probably a bit more than the average recreational angler and I can go two seasons on a spooling of braid unless I've had a number of break-offs. The memory from just one winter of storage for mono or fluoro would give the recreational angler enough headaches to want to respool. Some mono lines also break down from UV and temperature exposure, so you don't even need to use it for it to go "bad". I love the limpness and lack of memory of braid. I also use a fluoro leader most of the time on spinning gear (a study it then eat it bite). I never use a leader with a baitcaster (reaction bites).

 

I have recreational angler friends using reels spooled with the first generation of Spiderwire. Try going 12 or so years with a spooling of mono and tell me how that works out for ya... :)

Posted
Stick with mono and put the money you save into more rods, reels and lures.

 

I went back to mono on a reel that I'm using exclusively for carp & cats (beleive it or not but clear water carp seem to be the most line shy fish out there, really spooked by braid mainline even with a 3' flouro leader).

 

It sucks, I hate it. Flippin' memory, twists, nicks, rubs & reties and crazy thick diameter (12lb Rapala mono is almost twice as thick as 20lb Tuf-Line, current pulls it everywhere). After fishing braid for years it feels like there's a bungee connected between me & the bait.

 

Longer casts, more line capacity, better feel, much much better longevity, go braid.

Posted
And that's fine, everyone has their opinion. The way I look at it, for the recreational angler, I really don't find it necessary. I use Ande, because it great line, it's virtually disappears underwater because of it's colour (green) and because it's cheap. And besides, with mono, you don't have to go screwing around with tying on floro leaders and all that crap.

 

You have to give it an honest try first. You will in fact see that not only is it better for most applications due to its strength and sensitivity, but it will also save you money and trips to your local tackle shop because you barley ever break it and lose line, especially when using leaders!

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